Friday, May 31, 2013

Savage 110BA 1 mile shot - video!

Hey guys, I made a short video shooting the 1 mile shot with my Savage 110 BA 338 Lapua. Hope you enjoy the video!

1 Mile shot 338 Lapua

.


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Remember removing your FIRST jacketed bullet stuck in the pointing die?

I found an old SAS die set at a gun show for pretty cheap. This was because there was a bullet stuck in the point forming die. The ejector pin had gone through the bottom of the jacket and the usual recommended procedures didn't work. Corbin had already refused to work on another SAS die when I asked them earlier, so sending to a manufacturer (the only one I knew about) for repair wasn't in the cards. I got the ejector pin assembly and the stop ring off the die, but the die itself was pretty useless. I was afraid to dry drilling or tapping the bullet because I had no faith I would not hit the side of the die.

I worked as a Chemist at a high-tech research lab at the time and was griping about my poor "bargain" to one of the Metallurgists there. He said that if the die was made from hardened high-carbon steel, cold concentrated nitric acid ought to dissolve the bullet jacket and probably the lead without any damage to the die.

Nitric acid is rather peculiar stuff. Unless it is diluted with water, it doesn't function like an "acid" so much as a very powerful oxidizer. The concentrated stuff is shipped in aluminum drums, which would disappear in seconds if the acid was diluted. However, when concentrated, the acid oxidizes the aluminum to a thin layer of aluminum oxide, which protects the metal from further action. The Metallurgist told me that since hard steel resists oxidation, the acid should have little effect on the surface other than possibly passivizing it with a one-molecule thick oxide layer. However, it should dissolve copper, zinc and lead very rapidly by oxidation of the metals and dissolving the resultant oxides. He recommended putting the die in the acid, waiting until the reaction was over, taking the die out and flooding it with water, checking with pH paper until the water was neutral.

Well, it seemed like a desperation measure, but the die was pretty useless as it was, and I would not be out much if the experiment failed. I put a small beaker of the 100% nitric acid we used for nitration reactions into the fume hood, and lowered the die into the liquid with tongs. There was a furious fizzing around the die hole, with red fumes rising and the liquid turning yellow-green. When the fizzing stopped, I took the die out, ran water over it for five minutes, confirmed neutrality with pH paper, sprayed it with CRC and wiped it out. A look at the point forming cavity under our binocular microscope showed no pitting, ringing, or any trace of the bullet. The outside of the die was similarly pristine.

I would not recommend this practice as a routine method of removing stuck bullets from dies, but, as Hunter Thompson said in another context, "It worked for me."


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Time between curing and sizing

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Area Man is offline Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts68

Does it matter if you size boolit shortly after casting or should you typically wait until its fully cured?
engineer401 is offline Boolit Man Join DateDec 2011LocationYakima, WAPosts141
I wait until I am ready to reload the bullets. I don't know if this makes a difference but some have reported bullet swelling after a time. See this thread as it may shed some light or add to the confusion:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?186114-How-do-boolits-grow&highlight=bullet+swell

If they are water dropped, I size within hours. If they are air cooled, I size within years. I have some stored that were cast in 1986, and they aren't sized.

For air cooled, I've never seen any ill affects from sizing immediately. Some guys say they "grow" as they age.....I've not seen that.

You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore
This may be something about the alloy I normally use but I've learned to size promptly. My standard alloy is 20 lb coww and 1/2 lb monotype- just cause it makes purty boolits. If I wait a couple of weeks they're much harder to size. Not sure if it's that they're bigger or harder. It wouldn't require any less pressure on the sizer handle if I knew but next time I cast I'll have to make some notes and report the findings.

David

There is only one way of compromising the on Second Amendment. That is when Liberals call for Conservatives to compromise. What they really mean "give up just a little more of your rights just this once"- every time they call for compromise. Molon Labe!
To elaborate a little on 454PB's answer, if you water drop your antimony boolits from the mold, they will begin to harden after a period of time. (24hrs?) You have a window before that to size where it won't be too difficult and you will still achieve maximum hardness. After that point, the boolits will be tough to size. Sizing will also destroy the hardness of the sized area (driving bands).

After casting water dropped wheel weight boolits, I dry them off on newspaper and size quickly. They can be lubed at that time and store or lubed later if you use a slightly larger die (Lyman/RCBS/Star system) the second time through the sizer.

If you have a lead/tin alloy, size whenever you want.

A gun is a tool, Marian; no better or no worse than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A gun is as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that. - Shane

Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.
Sir Winston Churchill

The truth that makes men free is for the most part the truth which men prefer not to hear.
Herbert Agar

434-1

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Success with the H&R 45 Colt Classic Carbine!

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tomf52 is offline Boolit Master Join DateNov 2005LocationNortheast PAPosts360

After a lot of trial and error, I finally got this gun to shoot well. I learned that a full engagement of the latch and locking shelf is necessary and then found that the rifle really likes 7.4gr W231 behind the Lee 200gr RNFP bullet. I don't havve a working camera but had five shots touching at fifty yards. The latch shelf and latch were way out of specs but some careful work with files and stones made it right. Happy camper here.
Gtek is offline Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationSpace Coast, FLPosts591
Congratulations on the win, does it not stink that you are required to fit your finished, done, boxed, sold gun. No QC, No pride, welcome to the new world. Yes they are only a couple hundred, but there are only a couple of parts. Chaps my backside everyone I hear about one. Gtek
TMenezes is offline Boolit Bub Join DateFeb 2012LocationCaliforniaPosts45
There's one of these at my local gunsmiths that I was thinking of picking. But don't know that I will now, I would hate to take a file to a brand new gun! Did you have to reblue it afterwards?
I absolutely love my classic carbine. I have had so much fun trying different loads for the carbine on mild gallery round ball loads to some shoulder bruising barn burners. I had so much fun I had to find a Vaquero in 45 Colt so I could work some loads for both. Good times. Enjoy your rifle
"Silence in the face of tyranny implies consent, and I do not consent." Mike Vanderbough, April 20, 2013
olafhardt is offline Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011Posts377
My 500s&w Handirifle is pure fun. We have loaded it with powder charges of 6.4 grains up to 40tgrains.
Closest recorded range Chrony kill (3 feet with witnesses)
tomf52 is offline Boolit Master Join DateNov 2005LocationNortheast PAPosts360
TMenezes asked:There's one of these at my local gunsmiths that I was thinking of picking. But don't know that I will now, I would hate to take a file to a brand new gun! Did you have to reblue it afterwards?

The area worked on is totally out of sight when the gun is closed. We're talkikng about a 1/8" by 1/2" area. A quick touch of cold blue hides it anyway. Unfortunately a lot of the guns manufactured today have to be "tweaked" by the purchaser.

Last edited by tomf52; Today at 05:06 AM. Reason: punctuation
I have owned several H&R's in the past and presently have a 30-30, 357 max, and two 45 Colts. I've never had to take a file to any of these guns or any of the ones in the past. The mistake a lot of people make is leaving a film of oil on the latch and shelf. Leaving a film of oil in that area will cause a different lockup each time you close the action. Keep these areas dry of oil and you won't have a problem.
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Shaving lead using rcbs dies,

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troyboy714 is offline Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013LocationLambertville MiPosts1

Hi folks, Im loading 175gn lead 40 S&W, I have sized and lubed them to .401, my problem is that when I seat the bullet,I am shaving some lead,Its leaving a ring around the case mouth that I need to scrape and or peel away, Im usind a dillon 550 press and RCBS dies, I have adjusted my powder/ flair tube To the bare min bell (almost none) to the max bell that my seating die will handle,,I was wonderind if the dies are junk, (they are brand new), Im also wondering if maybe there is a type of flair tube like the lyman m die for dillon, any help would be great,, thanx.
Are you seating and crimping in one step?
Troyboy714,

In your 3 die RCBS die set, the second die to be used is the expander die.

This die brings the case mouth back from it's sized dimention to what should be close to the correct size - depending on the size of your cast bullet - for proper neck tention of the seated bullet.

This die ALSO flairs the mouth of the case, which if properly adjusted whould prevent shaving of the lead from the bullet.

I had what sounds to be the same problem with .45acp and cast, and it took awhile for me to fine out why I was having problems with the action not closing.

I, until proven otherwise, think this was a problem with the Lee factory crimp die that I was also using. A die by the way, that is a waist of money unless and until you have a proven need.

I see that Love Life ask about when you crimp your loads, and you will find quite a few folk who feel it is best to seat and crimp in two steps rather then one.

However, I have used just a standard 3 dies set of dies for many years without any negative issues and feel that proper adjusment will in almost all cases do every thing that is needed without the extra step.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

^^Correct. I have no issues seating and crimping in the same step. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it down right, but then the lock ring takes care of further issues. If possible though I prefer to seat and crimp in different steps. Just a personal preference.

The OP is using a Dillon 550 and using the Dillon funnel to do case mouth belling. RCBS dies are usually 3 die, but i have been known to be wrong before!!! I figured seating and crimping in the same step is the issue here, and minor die tweaking may be in order.

Process f elimination. Bell the mouth enough that boolit will start by hand, seat boolit part way only.rmove and check for shaving, if non found seat boolit a little more an check again,continue seating boolit in small steps right up to the crimp starts. If the crimp rolls the case mouth in before the boolit is fully seated to the finished OAL then it will cause shaving, if the boolit is not straight and the die does not center and straighten it soon enought it will get shaved. Some seating dies commonly labeled Speed Seaters are better at correcting mis aliegened boolits than others. Some progressive presses come with expanders sized for jacketed not case bullets.

Added: Are you using the correct nose shape seater?

Last edited by Case Stuffer; Today at 03:51 PM.
NRA Endowment Member
Vet . 2nd of the 47th 9th.Inf. Viet Nam Mar. 67-68
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

dilly is offline Boolit Man Join DateFeb 2013LocationMissouriPosts84
A lot of people rave about the lyman M dies.
If you have beveled to the point the seated won't take the case, your alloy may be too soft with too much tin. Causes the lead to roll up, not get shaved.
I don't load .40, but I do load a lot of .357, and I long ago found that I have to pick and choose from among my expanders to get one that does the job correctly for the particular brass I'm using. Stiff brass that's either very new or due for an annealing needs an expander about .001" to .002" bigger than softer brass does, due to the springback.

I once had a large lot of range brass that I had to sort carefully to get groups of cases that all expanded the same. A real PITA - I don't take random range brass anymore even as a gift!

"You are not a hoarder until you have exceeded a lifetime supply"
Cane_man is offline Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts193engineer401 is offline Boolit Man Join DateDec 2011LocationYakima, WAPosts141
I had a set of 357 Magnum RCBS steel dies several years ago that never gave any problems. I later purchased a new RCBS taper crimp carbide set and found the sizing die sized the cases to 0.372" while others sized to 0.373". The flaring die was the same as that for 9mm so it didn't flare much. I also had lead bullets shave from the bullet bases while seating. Some of the time I couldn't seat jacketed bullets in my RC II press. The flaring die didn't flare the case enough. I crimp and seat in two separate stations. I finally purchased CH dies that are 0.374" inside diameter to size the brass to 0.375", the same diameter as new Starline brass. CH measured a "reject" carbide die left over from the past and sent it to me. I couldn't be happier. Eventually, I purchased a 550 press and the CH dies work perfectly. Ultimately, I replaced my RCBS pistol dies with CH. To sum it up, the problem may be the RCBS dies.
Make sure you're not taper crimping excessively and seating the bullet deeper at the same time. This will shave lead every time. Can't seat a bullet without shaving if the case mouth is being squeezed down simultaneously to a too small diameter. It's easier to get away with this with a jacketed bullet than a cast one.
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.412 swage dies for the 405 Win???

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Hi
Getting a 405 Winchester made up on a Eddystone action that was 303/25,not much in the way of bullets,like jacketed,will be getting a few bullet moulds for it,but is there anyone out there making .412 bullets out of scrap brass and making their own???

Would have to be around 300-350gr in weight or even more.
What case would you use?

Btsniper,do you make swaging dies for this cal?
Just getting a feeler out there,will go from there by the replies,otherwise I'll get moulds to cast bullets.

Cheers

Cheers

no34570

"I'll tell you what rule we applied sir,We applied rule 3-0-3, We caught them and we shot them, under rule 3-0-3." :Lt Harry " Breaker" Morant at his court martial in January 1902.

"God,Gun's & Gut's made Australia free,let's fight to keep all three."

Richard Corbin has a 5 die set to swage a 0.411 flat base bullet. Open tip, lead tip and dual diameter tip for use with copper tubing jackets or drawn jackets. $594. If you use a Walnut Hill press you're in business.

Bob

PS He says they are "in stock & ond sale today". Take that with a grain of salt. I ordered a lead extrusion die set "in stock and on sale today" exactly 2 mos ago and havn't got them yet. Richard says he still has to take the dies off the shelf to clean and test them before he ships. The Obummer scare and an illness in the family have not allowed him to catch up.

Last edited by midnight; Today at 05:59 AM.
Midnight
Thanks for that,will have a look,but still would like to know if BT does them or would

Cheers

Cheers

no34570

"I'll tell you what rule we applied sir,We applied rule 3-0-3, We caught them and we shot them, under rule 3-0-3." :Lt Harry " Breaker" Morant at his court martial in January 1902.

"God,Gun's & Gut's made Australia free,let's fight to keep all three."

I certainly could. Anything is possible. I would have to have a reamer cut then it's just a matter of time to get the die completed.

I have made 416 bullets over 300 grains using 40 S&W brass before.

matter of fact, you could simply use a set of CH .410 cal dies and lap them up just a little. that is what I did with the 416

BT

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New York ammo background check question

Let's try to keep things accurate, OK? And on topic as well, folks.

They can't use the federal NICS system, as that's dedicated to checks for the purpose of buying firearms. Most likely, they'll have to establish some sort of state-level system, which is going to be inundated with calls and therefore an adventure to manage.

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Pure lead bullets.

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BBQJOE is offline Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2013LocationI challenge your middle of nowhere, and raise you 5.Posts54

Can someone explain why a .22 bullet made of pure lead, shot at rather high velocities doesn't lead up a gun?
Are they even lubed?
It seems to me that a pure lead bullet would give better a seal and obturation.
I know for some reason this isn't the case, but I'm trying to grasp why .22 works.
they aren't pure lead.
they are lubed.
they are heeled and hollow based.
they work because of rule number one.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

BBQJOE is offline Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2013LocationI challenge your middle of nowhere, and raise you 5.Posts54
they aren't pure lead.
they are lubed.
they are heeled and hollow based.
they work because of rule number one.Well, they sure are soft.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

BBQJOE is offline Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2013LocationI challenge your middle of nowhere, and raise you 5.Posts54
Ok. Maybe this was a dumb question.
Just goes to show that some of our CF boolits don't need to be as hard as we seem to think.
R.M.

The tree of liberty must be watered periodically with the blood of tyrants and patriots alike..........Thomas Jefferson

Pure lead has a BHN of 5.0 or less.
The reclaimed 22 slugs that I have reclaimed have a BHN of 6.5 to 8.0 tested with my Lee hardness tester.
So they are NOT pure lead bullets.

Lafaun

Don't blame me, I voted for the American, again!
Garden variety .22 ammunition (Short, Long, Long Rifle) is surface lubed with a proprietary "waxy" compound.
?Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't after you?, Joseph Heller, Catch-22
Garden variety .22 ammunition (Short, Long, Long Rifle) is surface lubed with a proprietary "waxy" compound.i was thinking about wax dipping my loaded 45-70 boolits and then wiping off the exsece to get same efect
what I hand-load; 45 acp; 223 rem(5.56mm); 22-250 rem; 243 win; 30-30 win; 308 win; 45-70 gov.
on the list to start Loading; 9 mm; 270 win; 30-06 springfield; 222 rem

"You might be a gun nut if you load 45-70 on a progressive press" -HICKOK45<- was he talking about me!?!

---
Si vis pacem, para bellum

A few years back, I tested some pure-lead bullets in my .416 Rigby.

For this limited trial, I used stick-on alloy (which I treat as pure lead) and cast as-usual in an RCBS 416-350 mould. The bullets were sized (.417") lubed and loaded exactly the same as my regular .416 Rigby "hunting" load, with 55 grains of XMP5744 and a standard CCI 200 primer.

This load travels at 2050fps with clip-on wheelweight bullets, so I expect that the pure-lead bullets were about the same.

Firing 13 rounds through a clean barrel, I found ZERO leading afterwards....none! Accuracy from the bench at 100 yards was slightly "looser" than the WW load delivers, but still highly-usable for a hunting load.... 1.5" for five rounds, repeated twice. (With water-dropped WW, the combo is a 1" rifle...reLiably!)

I defy anyone to tell me that this level of accuracy is insufficient for big game at reasonable ranges. The conclusion I drew was that, at least in THIS rifle, I have a wickedly-effective instrument for anything that walks in North America. I still find a certain attraction to my cast softpoints, though.

243winxb is offline Boolit Master Join DateAug 2005LocationUSAPosts854
Last edited by 243winxb; Today at 03:08 PM.
I made a waxy lube quite similar to 22 lube by using 3 parts jpw to one part b-wax.
it took 2 weeks to dry but acted very similar once it dried.
I figured out if I cooked the jpw down then added the b-wax it dried in the same day.
it needed to be applied melted to warm boolits then it would dry in about 2 hrs.
it was what lead to the recluse lube working.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

to take BruceB's comments further, I remember reading an article by Layne Simpson about ML boolits, and his suggestion was to never lube the first boolit. I can't remember why, but I for sure don't remember him mentioning any leading issues.
I am ONLY responsible for what I Say!
I am NOT responsible for what You THINK I Said!
====
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Ideal velocity for the 405 grain cast 45-70 boolit.

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Looking for opinions on the ideal velocity range that works good for the 405 grain 45-70 boolit in a 22 inch barrel.
I prefer something in the 1400fps range. Accurate in my marlin cowboy, a bit more authority than bp velocities, yet not abusive.
I prefer something in the 1400fps range. Accurate in my marlin cowboy, a bit more authority than bp velocities, yet not abusive.I am assuming that you still get good knockdown out to 200 yards?
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case crimp resizing bullets on way out...

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kevmc is offline Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationW. Central INPosts8

I cast some 429640 HPGC out of straight lead.
Sized to .431, load and pull.....from crimp groove to GC now .429.
Front band still at .431, gc still at .431...middle undersize at .429.
accuracy about 3.5" @ 50yds with 2x scope/bags.....SW 629-4 PC scope only gun.

Tried same with some BT's plain base (bhn 21) I had around, and these did not resize.
Tried with a comercial hard cast SWC (bhn about 18), and these did not resize down either.

Loaded 1st bullets (pure lead) into fired cases that I belled just enough to remove remaining crimp.
Roll crimped and pulled these and they resized to .429 from crimp groove to gc again.

So, the crimp is resizing straight lead bullets from CG to GC.
I'd like to keep these as soft as possible, but think I'd do well to harden enough that they remain full size when passing crimp.
Going to mix some 50/50 Lyman #2/Lead (bhn about 12) and try that.......

Anyone have thoughts to share........

We'll just assume up front that I'm nuts and go from there!!!!

Bwana is offline Boolit Master Join DateNov 2009Posts849
I don't know why you insist on them being pure lead that might help. When you fire a round the crimp should iron out unless you are using light loads. If that is the case, why are you crimping so much? With a light load they are not going to come forward even with five other rounds having been fired. I might suggest a light taper crimp.
1. My ex-Lee seating dies would make skinny boolits out of fat ones, as did one RCBS. And, that was done to boolits cast of wheel weights.

2. Do you seat and crimp in one step? If so, do it in two.

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Garand gunsmith KC area?

My nephew bought a Garand and is looking for a gunsmith to look at an issue he is having with the safety. Any recommendations? He lives northeast of KC. Thanks in advance.

Pat

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Which ingot shape?

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Voters13. You may not vote on this polldilly is offline Boolit Man Join DateFeb 2013LocationMissouriPosts84

These are the types of ingots I can make. Either will fit in my RCBS Pro Melt (the reason I'm too broke to buy a regular ingot mold). What do you guys think will be more convenient in the long run?

Name: ingots.jpg<br />Views: 79<br />Size: 76.2 KB

Either. Both if you increase your smelting.
Pack some up in a SFRB and offer to swap for an ingot mold. Someone will have an extra. Or buy one for you.
Dusty Bannister is offline Boolit Bub Join DateJan 2011LocationNE KansasPosts34
I prefer the muffin mold because you can pour them as thick as you like. Thin for winter use to feed the pot without causeing a large drop in melt temp. Thick for quickly filling the pot at start up. I also like to stack the biscuits in one gallon paint cans for storage after blending. The wedge ingots would likely fit fine in a white 5 gallon bucket for bulk storage if you wanted to do that as well. Goodwill Stores and the like are great places to look for these items. Good luck. Dusty
mrblue is online now Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationMichiganPosts87
I like the muffin molds myself. Seem easier to store.
shadowcaster is offline Boolit Master Join DateJun 2011LocationNorthwest MontanaPosts194
I say use the wedge shape as your primary and the muffins as secondary. I have 4 of the cast iron wedge pans that I use in rotation when smelting. By the time my last one is filled, the 1st one is ready to dump out. They are hassle free when making the ingots, stack nice (alternate points in and out or in a circle in a bucket), weigh in at about 2 pounds each, and will fit most any casting pot. The only muffin pans I use are the mini cast iron muffin pans. Cast iron is hassle free and a pleasure to use. I find that regular muffin pans are a pain to deal with. Too many issues!

Shad

I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!
triangles stack better structurally and more densely.
I didn't vote.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Make them out of angle iron stock,they stack better

Horace

Well, if you had a cannon with the same bore diameter as your muffin tin. . .

Truthfully, round bugs me. Round plates, round glasses, round beer bottles - all wasting lots of space in square cabinets and square refrigerators. You'll be "storing" a lot of air between your round ingots.

WWJMBD?

I like my science WEIRD.

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Alliant Powder Power Pro 300-MP

Do to the recent shortage of handloading components, I was unable to purchace H110 powder for my upcoming 44 magnum loads. The only thing I could find was Alliant Powder's Power Pro 300-Mp. Its a magnum handgun spherical powder that the attendant said would work well for the 44 mag.

What do you all think?

Alliant Powder - Power Pro 300-MP

Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide


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Pot for melting Lube ?

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!

Any particular
pot as far as SS, Aluminum, Teflon coated SS.
Would a 2qt. Non-Stick coated SS sauce pan be OK ?
SS or aluminum will work.

How big a pan????? How big a batch you making??...same question. Super soaped lubes foam over too small a pan...always use a pan 2X bigger than you think is needed.

Just do not use teflon for any of the HIGH SOAP/MIGH MELT TEMP lubes.....the temp needed to get a lube super soaped can remove the teflon right off the pan....it happened to me.

"Happiness is a target rich environment"
I use a stainless 2 quart.
like mike mentioned it's been close a few times making sodium stearate lubes.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I don't remember where I read it. However I know I saw a video on youtube when I was researching pan lubing and saw a guy using a old lee bottom pour pot as a melter for lube. Then he filled the pan up from that. One thing I read said when your lee pot won't stop dripping no matter what you try, why not use it for lube. Claimed it was thicker and wouldmt drip as much.

Again these are internet things I have read so take it for what that is , but if you have a old lee pot that won't stop that drip might try that.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?
SS or aluminum will work.

How big a pan????? How big a batch you making??...same question. Super soaped lubes foam over too small a pan...always use a pan 2X bigger than you think is needed.

Just do not use teflon for any of the HIGH SOAP/MIGH MELT TEMP lubes.....the temp needed to get a lube super soaped can remove the teflon right off the pan....it happened to me.

I'm thinking a 2 quart pot should do it.
Will be making Bens Red Lube.
So I should stay away from a pot with Teflon coating ?
So I should stay away from a pot with Teflon coating ?If you might leave the mix unattended, skip non-stick coated pans.
There are many documented tales of birds dying of fumes from empty pans heated on the stove.
As to human toxicity, the jury (literally jury trials) seems to still be out on that.

I'd be more worried about my wife noticing the smell of "cooking" lube.

If you might leave the mix unattended, skip non-stick coated pans.
There are many documented tales of birds dying of fumes from empty pans heated on the stove.
As to human toxicity, the jury (literally jury trials) seems to still be out on that.

I'd be more worried about my wife noticing the smell of "cooking" lube.

I'll be cookin' up the lube outside
I was wondering if the Coatings might come off or have a chemical reaction with the Lube ingredients.
Last edited by hylander; Yesterday at 06:00 PM.
wlc is offline Boolit Man Join DateMar 2012LocationALASKAPosts125
Better to be safe than sorry. go with a non coated pan. I got mine at the thrift store for a couple of dollars and brew my lube in the shop so as not to incur the wrath of my bride from stinking up the house.
I actually like a 1qt slow cooker w/ removable crock. Get one with two heat settings, makes quick work of any lube component w/o the hassle of a double boiler. The removable crock allows easy pouring. Something like $20 @ Wally, Target, etc.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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you'll want 350-f+ to melt the grease, if you follow my directions in the bens red sticky.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

They been watchin too much EBAY , believe people will actually pay ridiculous prices for old used second hand stuff....maybe they don't realize Wally Mart sales it new and cheaper?
I use a double boiler. This way my lube never sees direct heat. It is probably over kill but I have not had any scorched wax.
I also use the small crock pot. Got it at the local thrift store for five or six bucks. Hylander, you need to find another thrift store.
I'll be cookin' up the lube outside
I was wondering if the Coatings might come off or have a chemical reaction with the Lube ingredients.Teflon type materials are inert - at room temperature.
It's the heating of an empty pot or pan that causes issues - if they are real.
None of my MIL's pots or pans have any non-stick coating left on the actual cooking area. It didn't cause any thing other than one Yale lawyer.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"


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