358W chamber problems??

I would appreciated some input from other .358W owners.

If there's anyone out there with some fired .358 WW brass on hand, could you please measure the outside neck diameter?

I'm splitting case necks after only a few firings with mild loads and suspect the culprit is simply a crappy batch of WW cases.

Thank you,
MJ

It's not about gun control, it's about people control. The progressives are using terrorists and the insane to further their agenda. If the socialist news media wasn't complicit, we could sit back and watch Fast & Furious and Benghazi-gate unfold.

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Winchester 120 barrel

Remington 1100 fore end won't go on with new barrel MAC702 Shotguns, Shotgunning, and Shotshell Reloading 8 01-08-2011 04:11 AM

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Impatient lubing

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2012Locationsw paPosts9

Anyone know if this is already a known lubing technique? I wantet to lube with alox,but didn't want to wait for the alox + min spirits to air dry.I covered a cheap metal serving plate with alum foil,set ontop of the elec hotplate ,and put about 100 boolits on it.Set the hot plate on med/low,the boolits smoked for about 20 minutes,then the smoking stopped.The alox was dry to the touch,not sticky.Let them cool,loaded them and went shooting.The performance was as good as air drying them overnight.Has this method been done before,or have I invented something?

never heard that one.

I just set them out on the back porch under the ceiling fan for about two hours and they are dry.

.

First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.

Where is John Galt?

(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
.

I get them real hot with a hair dryer before lubing them.
then heat them again after lubing.
then dump them on a cookie sheet in front of a fan, by the time they are cool they are good nuff to shoot.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Heat never seemed to make a lot of difference for drying bullets for me, but air circulating around the bullets does..

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Midway did me right. :)

I had another thread regarding a shipment of bullets from Midway that arrived in a broken envelope, and bullets were spilled and missing. I am happy to say that...

I have a new box of the 190 Sierras on the way!

And my email which was sent was actually sent signed Larry Potterfield... it is as follows:

"Dear Daniel,

Thank you for your email regarding your order. I'm terribly sorry that you received your order with so many of the bullets missing. I am having another box sent out to you. Once this ships, you will receive an email confirmation.

If you have any additional questions or comments, please feel free to contact us at 1-800-243-3220. Our hours of operation are Monday through Friday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. CT. You may also email us at customerservice@midwayusa.com.

Thanks for Your Business!

Jennifer

Then this one was from Larry Potterfield:

We received your order (#19961056) placed today, 05/28/2013. And since I've always been a stickler for fast shipping, we're working hard to get it out quickly.

Details of your order are outlined below. We'll send tracking information as soon as your order ships.

Thanks for Your Business!

Larry Potterfield,

Founder and CEO of MidwayUSA

So... I'm really happy that Midway did me right on this. I only asked them for one box of bullets, as I'm sure I can make do with what is left of those that I did get.

That's the update... I'm going to post this in its own thread so folks will see that Midway does care about their customers.

Dan

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Sprue Material?

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationSpace Coast, FLPosts583

Would anyone know what steel of choice is used for these. Checked my Lyman's and the thickness came in at .122" (small blocks), and .177" (large). My little brain tells me they started life as .125" and .1875" plate and ground for confirmed flat. Think were a little past 4130.
Things I learned today-
1- Lyman will sell you the new spring washer to replace split lock for .25 cents a piece. note- requires
shim for correct stack up on OLD molds, the new screws appear different on shank length .
2- Lyman no longer and does not intend on producing small replacement sprue plate kits.
( It was suggested that I search EBAY) REALLY- That one kind of left a taste in my mouth!
3- I then very kindly ask what the ferrous number of the steel plate they used, answer- proprietary. ( taste got a little stronger)
After explaining the amount of Lyman products and the number of molds that live at this residence did not magically produce any gifts, call politely ended. Just checking in for possible answer before I start the metallurgy journey/analysis in my outer circles. I have a little PP cylindrical mold thing going on in my head and one more hill to cross. Thanks, Gtek

I wouldn't over think it to much, just use some mild 1000 series steel. You can buy surface finished plate and contour saw it out. The reason they wouldn't tell you is they dont know either.

Last edited by Marvin S; Today at 04:08 AM.

yep it only has to cut cold lead.
the hardest you'll be dealing with is what 30 bhn.
some just make 1/4" steel work for them, the heavier steel holds heat better anyway.
get the hole size right and countersink, surface the bottom smooth, and you should be good to go.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2006Posts970

Lees are made of aluminum or pot metal, those should be replaced with steel.

Some years ago I read in one of my old casting books that you can also make sprue plates from good aircraft grade aluminium plate. I tried this, and to my surprise it worked very well, in fact I still use them on two of my RCBS molds.

Some years ago I read in one of my old casting books that you can also make sprue plates from good aircraft grade aluminium plate. I tried this, and to my surprise it worked very well, in fact I still use them on two of my RCBS molds.NRA Cast Bullet Guide, I think.

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.380 Question

I had thought about trying some 115s for my Sig p238. I decided to play it safe and just stick with 90s

Ike

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Need help with RCBS Lubeamatic

So I haven’t been able to do much casting in the last year or so, I had two sets of twins back to back within 17 months... well my wife did anyway. That makes 6 kids 6years old and younger for me. 4 in dippers and cribs. 5 boys 1 girl, lots of shooting buddies, I am very blessed yet very busy.

So to my actual question. I have a RCBS lubamatic for sizing and lubing my boolits. I started out trying to lube some 45ACP round nose boolits but it won’t fill in the lube groove. When I give it one more crank or half crank and try again the lube shoots up under the boolit and makes a mess while still not getting the groove done fully. I tried adjusting things but could not find a way to make it better. The thing that kills me is that last year I did not have this problem and nothing has changed.

So I casted some 38 special boolits to try them. When I started everything worked great for about 30 boolits then back to the same cr@p shoot again with the boolit being pushed out of the die by a column of lube.

Any suggestions on what the heck is going on. I like to tinker but these days I don’t have time to tinker and get a task done, I just want this thing to work like it did before. Please help

Sounds like you are not pushing the boolits deep enough into the sizing die.... especially when you say lube is not filling the lube grove. Are you keeping downward pressure on the boolit while putting pressure on the lube? What lube are you using.

Yup, mine will do the same if the boolit isn't going deep enough and you have to much pressure on the lube res. It's pushing the lube under the boolit. Turn the very bottom bolt under the die out a little and that should help. Also, is the lube soft enough to work without excessive pressure? If no, heat it up ( the lube sizer res.) a little with a hair dryer or something to help the lube flow without so much pressure.

One thing that will make adjusting the depth a less messy occurance is to back all the pressure off the reservoir beforehand. I never like digging the boolit diameter string of lube out of the top of the H die.

Check how far down the lube holes are in your lube die, then adjust the boolit so the lube groove goes that deep.

Silly question time, is the top punch the same as the one last year?

Robert

I have always turned the pressure handle to build pressure then pulled down on the handle to size and lube the boolit. Do I need to size the boolit first then leave it in the sizing die while I crank on the pressure wrench to fill the grooves?

I don't know how much deeper I can go Ihad to take it back up a bit as it was filling the crimp grove on my 38 RN

If I don't have the right top punch will it mess it up? I know the 45ACP was defiantly the right punch but the 38 may have not been. I just looked through my punches till I found one that looked right

Last edited by lts70; Today at 02:45 PM.

If you are getting lube in the crimp grove you can raise the stop on your sizer a little. May I recommend that you push the boolit all the way to the stop (adjust as required) in your sizer then holding pressure on the boolit crank some pressure o the lube. I use a Lyman sizer and find that if I have good lube pressure I can size 3 or 4 boolits without having to add more pressure to the lube.

I always hold the handle down and then apply just enough pressure that I can feel it. You get sort of a feel for what is right after a few tries. Doesn't take too much pressure to do the job if you've got the depth adjustment right.

Mike

Patron Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet

I have always turned the pressure handle to build pressure then pulled down on the handle to size and lube the boolit. Do I need to size the boolit first then leave it in the sizing die while I crank on the pressure wrench to fill the grooves?

I have lubed thousands of boolits on my LAM by sizing first, then adding a bit of pressure for each boolit.

I don't know how much deeper I can go Ihad to take it back up a bit as it was filling the crimp grove on my 38 RN

The manual for the LAM and LAM II are available as .pdf files on RCBS's website for download, sometimes the will answer the question. For me it took a while, many boolits and re reading of the manual before I came to a happy medium on the depth of insertion. Now I don't change it and all of my boolits get lubed as needed.

If I don't have the right top punch will it mess it up? I know the 45ACP was defiantly the right punch but the 38 may have not been. I just looked through my punches till I found one that looked right

As long as the top punch isn't distorting the boolit, it doesn't really matter what you use. I have successfully used a homemade flat tipped punch (cutoff ?" bolt) for RN rifle boolits.

If you go too deep, you get lube all over the nose of the boolit.

Since you did all right with this sizer last year; it may be that you just need to get used to using it again.

Good Luck and take care of those little ones,

Robert

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102gr 9mm C.O.A.L. suggestions

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts1

I am very new to casting and got my hands on a .356 102gr mold. The cast is throwing correct dia. so i am not resizing, but none of my ref materials have a max O.A.L for that particular projectile. I know alot of ppl use this mold for .380. Any help i could get in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Also i am very new to this site so if i posted this in the wrong place feel free to scorn lol, i find this site to have some very useful info and dont wanna get in trouble with the admins.

I would use your barrel to determine OAL. There are numerous on-line guides that will show you how to do this. Basically, you start with the boolit seated out far, and reduce OAL until the case rim is equal, or slightly below the barrel hood. Many people refer to this as the "plunk test," and you can youtube it. Make sure you cycle the rounds from the magazine to ensure they feed correctly once you have determined the maximum OAL that will fire from your barrel.

By the way, am I right to assume that the boolit in question comes from a Lee mold? If it does, this is a great boolit. I use it in a variety of guns, from .380, 9mm, .38/.357, and some rifles with tight bores. I am a huge fan of this boolit, and I am lucky that my example drops .3585-.359 with my alloy. I size all of my 9mm/.380's to .358, unless they have an unusually tight bore (I'm talking about you Walther!). Good luck, and have fun sending some projectiles down range that you created yourself.

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2009Posts990

I load that boolit to 1.05" in my 9mm loads.

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Buying brass from scrap yard

Sounds like baloney to me. He probably has a buddy sorting through the brass.

BvT

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Buffalo Bore and the S&W 642...Are They A Good Match?

I was thinking about selling a gun in order to buy a S&W 640 in .357 for a carry gun. I carry a 642 now and have been happy with it but was wanting to have something that hit a little harder. After thinking about it though, I don't know if the muzzle blast from .357 in a 640 would be a good thing if I ever had to use the gun in a low light situation. Plus, I don't know about the extra weight of the 640 in the pocket.

Now, I'm thinking about just changing ammo and trying some Buffalo Bore. I hear it's a pretty hard hitter for .38 Special and that muzzle blast isn't as much of a problem.

So, any words of wisdom for me?

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Soon to order Accurate Mold. What size will it drop with my alloy?

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2013Posts7

I am going to be ordering a new mold from Tom at Accurate, and wonder if any of you have experience with different alloys and the size at which they drop. I will be pouring 92-6-2 alloy exclusively, and am not sure of the differnce relative to his WW spec for size and weight. Any imput would help, I dont want to have order two!

Thanks,

Tell him what lead you are using and he will make it right. There is a section on the ordering process that asks what type of lead you are going to use. Put it on there and you will be OK. If not send him a email and ask.

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287

it will drop exactly how you order it...

Every mold I've bought of Toms dropped exactly where i wanted it to.

i'd just go with the ww alloy spec anyway, and take the whole extra .0005 in stride.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I have the same question. Of course I want to order to spec for what'll shrink more, so I NEVER have an undersized bullet. I don't mind sizing down what'll shrink less.

i cast in ww+2%tin, WW, and soft lead + 2% (give or take). Which do you guys recommend ordering based on? ww+2% will shrink the most, yes?

i'd just go with the ww alloy spec anyway, and take the whole extra .0005 in stride.That's what I do also.

the added lead alloy will of course come out smaller.
you can order the molds with a plus spec.
get it cut for ww's [the 50-50 with 2% is the same as ww alloy straight for all purposes] but get it with the .0015+ specification.
so if you want 452 [or more] order 452 and plus.
you'll get 452 [on the very smallest end] with the soft, and up to 454 with the harder alloys.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2012Posts20

Funny thing. I'm also using 92-6-2 and told Tom I wanted my 45-70 bullets to drop at .460 with that alloy. It drops perfectly at .460. I'm a happy camper.

There is a 'notes' box when ordering for you to specify your alloy. Tom takes it from there, i think, and will deliver a mold dropping at your requested diameter. What ive experienced dropped within +.0003" or pretty close to that.

If you wanna play it 'safe' like i did, request a diameter a little larger than you need and you can size them down to ensure roundness. Probably not really needed though

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Rail for SBEII

Im working on putting together a new turkey gun and have decided Im going with the 24" SBEII with the steady shot grip. I also want to put a red dot on it and I like the Burris Fast Sight but it says it needs picatinny style mounting, all I can find for the SBEII is Weaver style mounting systems which is the 93a mount. Anyone know what picatinny rail I need for on this gun.

Thanks

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Care for mold/COL

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts2

Hi I was just wondering how should I store my mold after use, should I just leave the last casted bullet in the mold? Also what is the col/oal for a lee 45acp tc because I seated it at 1.2 and it seems to jam ever once and a while with me having to force the rack to go back as well as push the lead round out from the barrel.

Storing a mold with the cavities filled does not help. I keep mine in either a plastic Lyman mold box or a "Really Smart Box" I get from Staples.

Can you describe your jam? Is it the round does not fully chamber? Or does it not even enter the chamber?

don't leave boolits in the mold.

some oil them, some don't, depending on what the mold is made from and where they live.
I just put my molds in a drawer and leave them there.
if I am not going to use them for 5-6 years I put some penetrating oil on them. [steel]

you most likely have to seat them a little deeper.
never mind what the book say's about oal they didn't use a lee boolit to develop their loads.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

OK, what does "having to force the rack to go back as well as push the lead round out
from the barrel" mean.

No part of the gun called 'the rack', can't figure out 'push the lead round out'.

Rack= slide? ??

back = forward or into battery or rearward to eject the round???

Is the extractor not grabbing the round and pulling it out?

If you are having failure to close, are you taper crimping with a separate die
in a separate operation? If not, get a TC die and start. No or inadequate
TC is the most common reason for jamming in .45 ACP.

Maybe not enough power to move the slide back all the way and eject
the empty case?

Please explain.

Bill

Last edited by MtGun44; Yesterday at 06:05 PM.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts2

Well every now and again I would have to rack it back hard in order to get the round out and the ejector works and having 50/50 on either getting the round out as a whole or just having the brass casing come out with the projectile stuck a tad bit in the barrel where I can just take my guide rod and push it out.

I do have a factory crimp die that I use after I seat the bullet and I think I solved it by seating it down a few. So instead of 1.2 its at 1.6/1.7 forgot which one and I test fitted all my rounds in my barrel just to seat if it goes in cleanly without having it getting snagged.

I'd say you did most likely solve your problem.

I ended up with a 1.165" COL when I was recently setting up my Pro2000 for .45 Auto and this bullet. It was necessary to get it to function in a couple of my guns. Without seating that deep the bullet was engaging the rifling in a couple of my guns with short throats before going into battery. The Lyman CB Handbook #4 gave a 1.170" OAL for this bullet in it's data IIRC.

I also had a very minor issue with the head spacing of a few rounds here and there that seating and crimping in separate stations cleaned up.

I store my molds in a sealed ammo box and wrap them in VPI paper. Also put a moisture absorbing pack inside the ammo box. Sometimes if I find enough small packets,I will put one in each box the mold is in.

I'm the King of my castle---anytime my wife's not around
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"A Government big enough to give you everything you want,is big enough to take away everything you have"
Thomas Jefferson

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Need help tweaking a load for my .25-06

Are you following a published recipe using the primers listed? To my knowledge, you don't need magnum primers with Ramshot powders especially in a 30-06 based case. Hunter isn't temperature sensitive nor hard to light and you aren't having to light off a large volume.

Temps in your part of the country shouldn't be much of an issue anyway and sometimes magnum primers can tend to make an otherwise good load a bit squirrelly. Neck tension (crimp) shouldn't be much of an issue if you are using quality dies.

Most of us will do "ladders" when load developing. Pick your bullet. Pick your powder based on the load recipe and starting with the starting load and ending with the max, load up a half-dozen or more with each charge weight and then go out and shoot groups to find out which is showing promise.

Some guns do their best running at max some do better somewhere under max.

Seating depth could be an issue, but generally if you are seating the bullets to the specified COL in the load manual you should be ok and should only be futzed with for fine tuning once you find an accurate load.

If you still aren't happy then you should think about changing a component such as powder, primers or bullet manufacturer. If you change a componet, change just one and experiment with the charge recipes until you can rule out that particular component as the culprit.

Keep meticulous records on what you're doing.

Remember, reloading is a process......... a continual grand experiment.

__________________
Herman Cain '12

Squished bugs on a windshield is proof the slow/heavy bullet theory works.

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Small Pistol Primers

Paid $42 out the door for 1000 Federal SP primers. Limit of 1000 per type, Rifle and pistol, per day, per customer. He had 1000 Federal primers left, but a small supply of Remington. Good selection of powder, but missing Unique, WW231. One pound ONLY per person per day. The anesthetist who told me about it, said they had a good stock of Federal primers yesterday. They are almost gone till the next shipment.

He said they were doing this policy until stock became consistent. If you show up every day for several days, you are cut-off. The reason given is they want to spread supplies around. Works for me.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

Supplies is a good thing.

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

Well it's either that or raise prices, which it looks like they already have. Yes, times are tough, going to like that for quite awhile I am afraid.

EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

They are doing there best to spread supplies around. There are folks who would come in and buy all they had. The had CCI .22 Mini-Mags as well $10.99 per hundred. 1 box only per day. After a couple of days, you're cut off.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

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Old or damaged ammo/brass

I have a cigar box that I was given with live ammo as old as 43 for 30-06 and a few other odd shells. Some look fine and others look discolored, corroded or just have crap on the cases.
(I don't have a 30-06)

And then I also have a couple primed pieces of brass that were ate up in the press.

What do you guys do to dispose of live questionable ammo or primed disfigured brass?

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Newbie started a derimming die.

I've been lurking for a month or so. Saw Ammosmiths video a few years ago about making .223 from 22lr and have been intrigued ever since. (The main reason I reload rifle, pistol, and shotgun, is not being able to purchase when I want to. Now it's getting to where you can find components.) I've done a lot of research on the internet and finally decided to start with couple of grade 3 and grade 5 bolts. Today I started on a grade 3 bolt, turned the head down to shaft diameter and knurled the non threaded section. Then I drilled it out to 3/8". Maybe this weekend I can bore it out to .500 inch for the drill bushing to insert, and make a punch out of the 7/16" grade 3 bolt.

Also ordered a 3' piece of .250 W1 drill rod, and a 3' piece of 4140 pre hardened in 7/8", that will be at the local Grainger store tomorrow. I'll have to wait 2 weeks for the 2 drill bushings I ordered, one for derimming and one for core swaging, if I can make it work. So far I figure I could have bought at least 500 .223 projectiles for what I've spent. I also noticed that they carry the cast iron rod, so I'll be ordering some of that too.

Thanks for a great site and all the info,
Ken

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Does this make sense? SLugging and sizing

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts12

So I bought a M&P9 in order to shoot cast boolits. Slugged the bore and wouldn't you know it, it doesn't have a groove on the opposite side so I can't measure with my micrometer. I have a 356 sizing die that the slug fits into by pushing it in with my finger. Easy to do.

Now does this make sense? Since it fits in "easy" it must mean that my bore is smaller than what the boolits will get sized to in my 356 sizing die. Which would give me the 1 thou or so over bore diameter.

The mould is a lee 6 banger 356-120TC and lead is range pickup so a mix of jword and cast. The mould casts at .3565 avg.

Thanks

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationSpace Coast, FLPosts597

Find a piece of thin shim stock, .002" to .004" works well, tweek it around a pencil or dowel before measure helps. Measure shim for confirmation with a good micrometer. Wrap bullet 180 degrees with shim, measure outside, subtract shim x2 and that is how big your boolit is. Gtek

Size Dies aren't always the dimension stated for a couple reasons. Some manufacturers make the die smaller to allow for lead spring back and some manufacturers can't hold tolerances.

OK,

Back to basics.

Slugging the barrel is usually a waste of time.
Don't worry about it.

If you have a .357 sizing die, size a couple .357, make a couple of dummy rounds and see if they will chamber. If they do, use that die. If they don't, use the .356.

If you have only the .356 die, size a couple .356, load up 10 or 12 rounds and try them at the range. If they shoot well and don't lead, use them.
If you have poor accuracy, tumbling, or leading, get a .357 die.

Yes, you can re-size your sizing die from .356 to .357. There are several threads here on how to do it.

First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.

Where is John Galt?

(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
.

OK,

Back to basics.

Slugging the barrel is usually a waste of time.
Don't worry about it.

If you have a .357 sizing die, size a couple .357, make a couple of dummy rounds and see if they will chamber. If they do, use that die. If they don't, use the .356.

If you have only the .356 die, size a couple .356, load up 10 or 12 rounds and try them at the range. If they shoot well and don't lead, use them.
If you have poor accuracy, tumbling, or leading, get a .357 die.

Yes, you can re-size your sizing die from .356 to .357. There are several threads here on how to do it.

William,
Thanks for the reminder. Sometimes we get caught up in the minutia and forget that often the easiest thing is to just try it and see if it works.

Size Dies aren't always the dimension stated for a couple reasons. Some manufacturers make the die smaller to allow for lead spring back and some manufacturers can't hold tolerances.Off topic but . . . the biggest reason dies size differently than as marked is alloy variation. Differing percentages of Sb result in different as sized diameters. Most of the die makers do a pretty decent job but with everybody out there using different alloys it must be turning their hair grey.

Rick

"The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

"Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

One side is for Liberty and the Constitution and they are called domestic terrorist, anti-American, nazi's and mobsters. Just what is the side using these terms for?

NRA Benefactor Life Member
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Home made pan lube in process??

You made flux. In reality, an aid to flux. As it burns it reduces oxides back into the melt. Won't remove stuff that needs removing but it will help with oxides.

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2013LocationMichiganPosts89

Well, at least I made something right. Doh

Hey, it happens to all of Us at some point.

I'm not so sure the original poster's lube or subsequent modifications wouldn't work as pan lube. Granted it is a hard lube, but if he does the cookie cutting before the lube is fully cooled, while it is still a bit soft, he might get lubed boolits out of it and he could test if the lube works in loaded rounds. I have a lube of beeswax, crisco and lanolin; if I cookie cut while the cake is still warmish I get a clean, easy cut and I don't get lube sticking to the outside of the cutter nor to the boolit bases. If I wait till cooling is complete lube builds up on the outside of the cutter and sticks to the boolit bases.

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2013LocationMichiganPosts89

I'm not so sure the original poster's lube or subsequent modifications wouldn't work as pan lube. Granted it is a hard lube, but if he does the cookie cutting before the lube is fully cooled, while it is still a bit soft, he might get lubed boolits out of it and he could test if the lube works in loaded rounds. I have a lube of beeswax, crisco and lanolin; if I cookie cut while the cake is still warmish I get a clean, easy cut and I don't get lube sticking to the outside of the cutter nor to the boolit bases. If I wait till cooling is complete lube builds up on the outside of the cutter and sticks to the boolit bases.
Thanks for your post. Where do I get one of these bullet cutters? What are they called?
I'm going shopping tomorrow for some of the ingredients that I need for Ben's Red, and maybe others too.

you can make a cutter yourself from a fired or resized case.
a golf club shaft, or chunk of hollow whatever.
a fired rifle type case with the primer hole drilled out and a nail inserted and a cork or piece of wood on the end of the nail works pretty well.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Do you have any idea of what I can add to it to make it more flexible in order to use as a pan lube? I just don't want to throw it away, ingredients are expensive.i think i would keep adding grease till you get the softess you need. a wire wisk can realy help mix it in. get it hot then turn off the heat and whip it for a bit.

if you have left over red-n-tacky after making Ben's you could try a little of that.

what I hand-load; 45 acp; 223 rem(5.56mm); 22-250 rem; 243 win; 30-30 win; 308 win; 45-70 gov.
on the list to start Loading; 9 mm; 270 win; 30-06 springfield; 222 rem

"You might be a gun nut if you load 45-70 on a progressive press" -HICKOK45<- was he talking about me!?!

---
Si vis pacem, para bellum

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2013LocationMichiganPosts89

I'll try that, but the Red N Tacky is one item I didn't get today. Maybe at NAPA?

I finally found castor oil. Can you believe it comes only in a 4OZ bottle? GrandMa would have fits!!! By the way, its 80 cent cheaper at Walmart.

jim,

do you have a carquest around they should have red-n-tacky. if you really can't find it ask for Red extreme pressure grease. they are the same thing just not as sticky as lucas.

what I hand-load; 45 acp; 223 rem(5.56mm); 22-250 rem; 243 win; 30-30 win; 308 win; 45-70 gov.
on the list to start Loading; 9 mm; 270 win; 30-06 springfield; 222 rem

"You might be a gun nut if you load 45-70 on a progressive press" -HICKOK45<- was he talking about me!?!

---
Si vis pacem, para bellum

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2013LocationMichiganPosts89

jim,

do you have a carquest around they should have red-n-tacky. if you really can't find it ask for Red extreme pressure grease. they are the same thing just not as sticky as lucas.

No carquest around here that I know of, but on an internet search yesterday I found that Advance auto parts carries it, so I'll call them this morning and verify.

Thank you sir. You guys are all amazingly helpful.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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What different options are available for swaging 40 into 45acp??

A couple links to help you out

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...just-that-easy!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...tep-die-review

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Glenfield/Marlin Model 20 Problem

I received a Glenfield Model 20 Bolt Action Rifle for repair. The issue is that the bolt will not close.

After examining the mechanism, I found what appears to be the problem. The Cartridge Guide Spring is preventing the bolt from closing as the spring does not move up when the bolt is pushed forward, effectively blocking the bolt from closing.

Not having much experience with this particular firearm - and before I pull the barrel to replace this part - I was wondering if there may be other issues causing this problem (none are apparent) and if the Cartridge Guide Spring is supposed to rest in the position that it is on this rifle - all the way down toward chamber. I can lift the spring and the bolt will go forward, but not on its own.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Old CH Half-Jacket dies. What Press do these fit?

I recently picked up these dies. Old CH (by Roddy) swaging dies. One is for .357 SWC and the other is .454 and looks like a wadcutter.

Wondering what press these were originally intended for as the nose punch has a holder not typical for use in modern presses.

I'm going to make some new punches to work in my press. I am simply curious about the history on this kind of die.

Thanks!

Mike

Politicians should be limited to two terms.

1 in office. 1 in prison.

NRA Benefactor 2004

So the the part with the punch holder is the ram out of a Swag-O-Matic?

Thanks for the link...

Mike

Politicians should be limited to two terms.

1 in office. 1 in prison.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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home made bore cleaner

in these times of cash tight folks there is a bore cleaner that is simple to make and i so far am satisfied with it and it dose a DAM good job here is the formula for those who want to make it

ED's RED

1 quart / liter of ATF transmission fluid
1 quart / liter of k1 kerosene
1 quart / liter of mineral spirits / varsol
1 quart / liter of acetone

Mix in a 1 gallone container non breathable ( i use a i gallone gas can ) outside
pour in transmission fluid and use the container to measure all ther other ingredients
( kerosene, mineral spirits/varsol, acetone )
and shake to mix

for long term storage add some lanolin

you can use this to even clean all the parts of your rifle at the end of your shooting season and any thing like the motor of your car

but like all bore cleaners KEEP AWAY FROM OPEN FLAME

and for those who would like to make copper remover you use

11oz of Ed's Red
2 oz of 10-20% industrial strength ammonia
2 oz of rust lick / or cutting oil
1 oz of oil soap ( murphy's )

Mix ammonia & oil soap
In a seperate container ( quart / liter )
Add cutting oil & Ed's Red mix them together
Then add oil soap / ammonia mix
shake well

wet a patch push down the barrel and leave it set 10-20 mins then push another wet patch down through fallowed by a dry patch

hope this helps a few folks out i know it did for me

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Classic Heart Lung Shot or through the shoulder

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2007Posts650

Once again speaking as a Hunter Ed instructor, we teach that shooting a doe with fawn/fawns in Oregon, with a doe tag, is legal but unethical.
Going onto private property to retrieve a wounded/dead animal is trespassing in Oregon which is illegal.
Take off your camo, leave your gun in the rig and contact the land owner. Explain that it is deer season (not everyone may know it), and explain what happened. If they will not allow you on their property call your local game warden and have him go with you back to the owner. He may be able to help you. You can not enter private property in Oregon without permission for any reason. If the owner refuses, tough luck for you.
All the more reason to make the killing shot in the vitals.....daleJust curious.... since you bring up ethics... and I'm not trying to sidetrack this thread, but if you're teaching something as unethical, why is it legal?

Aloha..

Rattus58, We are all brought up with different ethics. We explain that it is legal.
Hunters Ed in Oregon is not only safe gun handling , it`s also teaching young people to be responsible and ethical hunters.
I`m sure you must be aware that only 5% of the population are hunters, 5% are avid anti hunters. The other 90% are on the fence.
By teaching ethics and responsibility we are trying to give the hunter a better image to the general public.
BTW. Do you think every law that is passed by our legislators is responsible and ethical?
Sorry, no I.....dale

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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.22 Derimming Die for Standard Reloading Press

I am happy to say I am offering .22 cal de-rimming dies for sale. The jacket measures .222" and other sizes can be made also if you ask. These are for in a regular reloading press.They are made of tool steel and are hardened. Here are some pictures with a price to follow. $110.00 Delivered to your door

Last edited by u.p. north; 05-15-2013 at 01:10 PM.

Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...

"Praying might get you to heaven, but trespassing will expedite the journey..."
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You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here