Rotary drive 1050

I got around to processing some brass with it today. The adjustable speed make processing the brass quick work.

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Doesn't Anybody Drive A Ford

I would rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy.

Bill

Having worked on both Ford and GM powertrain projects for a Tier One equipment supplier, +1000

A year or so after I retired my old boss begged me to come back to help with GM projects. Offered me silly money, and I said NO.

And I'm seriously wondering what Recluse is smoking.

Type F is only for much older Ford xmsns. At least 10-15 years ago they got together and agreed on a common spec for ATF.

"You are not a hoarder until you have exceeded a lifetime supply"

My Tundra was made with 75 percent American made parts and was assembled in the US. As for profits, with a global economy does that really matter any more? How many "American" businesses are owned in large part by foreign nationals? Is Chevy stock owned solely by Americans?

I bought with my brain, not my heart. My brain said buy Toyota. Matter of fact, so did my mechanic and many others I asked. Good enough for me.

Yup. My advice for many years to those looking to buy a vehicle is to go to the nearest Toyota dealership and buy the model that suits their needs. If you happen to need a 4x4, crew-cab, diesel dually, buy Ford Superduty and have a 12-valve Cummins installed in it.

My first vehicle is a 1946 Chevrolet pickup (I say IS because I still own it and after the 240,000 miles that I put on it, it still runs, even though I haven't registered it in over 15 years), a vehicle that Americans came home and built the year after they finished either rescuing or whipping the butts of every major country on the globe. It's a fine machine. My wife drives a Toyota because she's the most important person in the world to me, and I really don't give a damn who made the best vehicle our money can buy. Americans have always had the best opportunity to make great vehicles, if they blew that chance, then tough cookies. I also own Japanese guns with Winchester logos on them, because the Japanese made them better.

You misguided patriots should be thanking your lucky stars that countries other than the USA have the intestinal fortitude, the vision, the ethics, and the desire to compete with our products, because if they didn't, we'd be stuck in the union monopoly having to buy their trash. Remember the Pinto, the Dart, and the Chevy II? That's what we had before there were very many imports to choose from. The VW Beetle was at one time both the best and cheapest transportation available, and almost every American family owned one. America's response was to build the Corvair.

So you can "Ford vs. Chevy" all you want, but to do so is to miss a bigger point.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

the chevy-II was a great car after you replaced the wiring front end rear end engine and transmission.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Yeah, the UAW really designed some crappy cars, remember the ones you had to pull the engine in order to change a spark plug, and those rusting out rear windows the union workers designed. They really killed the US the auto industry.Just goes to show, you haven't a clue about the auto industry. The UAW has no input, what so ever on the design of an automobile. Any and all designs flaws, can attributed to the white collar sector (salary / management). Ask me how I know. I was a UAW pipefitter for 37 years with GM. Ten years of that, I was assigned to the Design staff at the General Motors Technical Center. I repaired, among other things, Don Cherry (head of the design staff) porcelain throne. Ran into Bob Lutz more than once. Never once did anyone ask the lowly hourly worker for our input.

Winelover

1978-79 f-350 with a 460 are some of best trucks on planet earth to this day. Simply bulletproof drivetrains serviceable for many lifetimes. They absolutely do not make them like that any more.460 huh? How many miles to a quart of oil?

I had a Mercury(senior moment. I can't remember the model) about that time with a 460 engine. As I recall it got between 9 and 12 mpg. Great road car. If you got it up to speed, you hoped you didn't have to stop quickly.

My 460's never used oil. I did replace the pan gasket do to a leak, didn't even have to jack up the truck or engine. My last classic ford was a 77 f-250 with a 460 & c6/205 it got 12 loaded unloaded nice & easy or pedal to metal. It was set up fer plowing. Best plow rig I ever owned. Never got stuck, but pulled out or pushed through all other brands newer older & of the same era. Had a 78 with a 460 that I swapped a 5 spd in and it got 15mpg. Had a Lincoln mark 5 with a 460 it had hiway gears and on the hiway it would get 16mpg but only 11 in town. None of them ever burned oil or failed me. I can rebuild the entire truck 8 times fer what a 2014 city boy Chevy pick up cost. I was never worried bout scratches dings or dents with those ole tanks either, in fact I bet you wouldn't drive that purty 14 Chevy down my favorite roads. Why is tis in the boolit lube forum?

Remember the Pinto, the Dart, and the Chevy II? How about the Pacer?? Had to be the ugliest car ever until the new boxes started coming out.

I have had three ford trucks. First one had 150000 on it when I sold it. The second has 349000 and still runs. The last one has 238000 and is my daily work truck. I love the old straight six cylinder 300ci .

I drive a Ford.

Had a 1976 1/2 ton. 302-3 speed, headers, hi-rise intake, Elgin torquer cam, Elderbroc AFB 4-barrel. Loved that little Ford small-block.

Had a 1979 E350 van with 460...same. hi-rise intake, Elgin torquer cam, and Holly 780 Double-pumper. Took it to the mountains camping. I passed everything on the passes. Love that Ford.
,
Now I got another E350 with a V10. Great piece a machinery.......

I use Dexron in my lube.

Why is tis in the bullet lube forum?

I drive a Ford.

Had a 1976 1/2 ton. 302-3 speed, headers, hi-rise intake, Elgin torquer cam, Elderbroc AFB 4-barrel. Loved that little Ford small-block.

Had a 1979 E350 van with 460...same. hi-rise intake, Elgin torquer cam, and Holly 780 Double-pumper. Took it to the mountains camping. I passed everything on the passes. Love that Ford.
,
Now I got another E350 with a V10. Great piece a machinery.......

I use Dexron in my lube.

Why is tis in the bullet lube forum?

Don't worry, it will wander back on topic eventually!

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lee drive key sticking

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2012LocationwisconsinPosts62

I'm having a heck of time to get my slugs to drop from the mold, I followed the direction to the t, lubing and applying carbon, slugs stick, I have to beat the heck out of it to get it to drop, any magic bullet to get it to separate from the mold, HELP. HC

More heat!

Well, first you might check the mould and core pin for burrs using a magnifying glass. If there are any burrs removed them VERY carefully.

Lee moulds are inexpensive and good value for money but there is a bit of a trade off quality wise sometimes and you might need to Leement the mould a bit. There is a sticky on Leementing if you do a search.

Basically, you should give it a thorough check over and remove any little burrs you find and possibly lap it lightly. That should solve the problem along with good mould pre-heat. You certainly shouldn't have to beat the mould to get slugs to drop.

Are slugs sticking on the core pin or in the mould blocks? Could be burrs along the slot in the core pin, mine had a few there.

Back to more heat. I find that my Lee 1 oz. mould likes to be run hot or I do get some sticking. Pre-heat your mould well and cast steady to keep it hot and that should help.

Longbow

Plus one on all of the previous statement.
Check for burrs. The center pin thingy on mine had some burrs, as well as one of the mold halves. Obviously clean and degrease. And run that thing hot. Mine is annoying until it is screaming hot. Then it is like magic. Pour, tap sprue cutter, open mold, slight shake and they fall out.

Boolit Buddy Join DateJan 2009LocationSouthern IllinoisPosts70

A good idea for any newly acquired mold would be to run a cotton swap around the edges to determine and remove any rough spots. My new Lee Key Drive mold had a few that needed to be removed and, after doing so, the mold usually released the slug on opening but still sometimes needed a light tap to do so. FYI, I drop newly formed slugs on to an old thick towel for air cooling and experienced better accuracy with soft lead than hard lead in my USH.

Screaming Hot Mold, when I cast with mine I have to have mold HOT and usually increase lead temp by about 50 degrees above what I use if I am doing boolits

If you heard my shot, then you weren't the target!

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2012LocationwisconsinPosts62

More heat did the trick, the slugs dropped great, thanks much. HC

That is the stickiest mold that I have ever used. As others have said, start off by deburring & then don't be stingy with the heat. I run the pot up around 850F when I use that mold.

Another thing that Lee recommends is only using pure lead in that one. They claim that this helps with the sticking problem.

In addition to that, this is the one & only mold that I still smoke before I use it. It seems to be a necessary evil, at least for me.

?an armed society is a polite society.?
Robert A. Heinlein

"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here