SKS Sear Replacement

Originally Posted by TX Hunter Does Changing the Sear, Hammer and springs with American made Components without changing anything else on the weapon violate 922R?IIRC, under 922, the gov't wants you to use U.S. made parts...when you manufacture a firearm.

In this case, you are not manufacturing, so 922 does not apply.

If this was a chopped receiver, then 922 applies for the entire build.

IIRC.

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Mk6 Projectile Replacement

You should be able to load an equivalent to the old 215 GR RN .303 in 7.62 mm fairly easily, after all .308 has a little (100 or so) FPS availabe than the old Mk 6 .303 British load.

Your components may differ slightly because of what is, or isn't, available in the U.K. as compared to what we get here, but substituions can be fairly simple with a decent cross reference.

Question. Are you allowed to use FMJ types for your work? I ask because I know they aren't legal for game stalking, but I don't know if you have different regulations for euthanasia purposes.

Heres a couple of loads I found in a manual.
For .308 Win:
Accurate Arms 2520 powder: 190 Gr SIE bullet (HPBT) 38.3 Gr for 2235FPS min to 42.5 Gr for 2500FPS MAX LOAD.

208 Grain Hornady A-Max bullet #30702, driven by Win 748 will go MAX LOAD, to 2450FPS.

Hornady makes a 220 Gr RN InterLock bullet number 3090, but again its not a FMJ, but a softpoint, or there is a #30903 225GR HPBT. Both could be reloaded with a slightly reduced starting charge from the list above for the 190GR.

Sierra makes a .311" 180 Gr that you could reload into .303 British cases as well. or theres a FMJBT 174 Grainer # 3131 for the .303 as well. Load data for that gives me top loads of 46.4 Gr of H414 powder for 2500FPS (MAX LOAD) which is more than the old Mk6's 2200FPS.

Hopefully this is a good starting point to work up a load that will do the job humanely for you. Based on these numbers it seems fairy easy to do, as long as there arent any legal restrictions on bullet types I found for your needs.

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Direct replacement screw on Limbsaver recoil pad for NEF/H&R single shot shotguns?

I have a H&R 12ga. Single shot shotgun and want to find a Limbsaver recoil pad that will directly screw into the wood stock. Searching the internet, I've found two suggestions that may or may not work.

First is Limbsaver # 10003. Someone said this one would work if your shotgun came with a recoil pad from the factory. If it didn't you'd have to cut 1" off the stock for it to work. I don't recall any single shots coming with a recoil pad from the factory, but I could be wrong.

The second is Limbsaver # 10702. This seem to be for a Beretta shotgun and was said to fit right on the end of the wood stock.

I really don't want to get a slip-on since I don't like the way they look, so I'm hoping some Limbsaver out there mates up to the stock as well as the screw holes. Considering these things are cheap and everywhere, I'm surprised Limbsavers hasn't made a direct replacement for them yet. Any and all suggestions are welcome. I've cut the barrel to 18.5", put on a new bead, refinished the stock and forend so I'm hoping to put on a Limbsaver pad as the final touch.

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"O" ring replacement

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Acceptable replacement for red'n'tacky#2??

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationOntario, Can!Posts103

I was picking up some pulleys for work and noticed they had a blue grease for pillow block bearings and electric motors. I like the blue colour of it and want to swap it for a batch of Ben's red lube.

Here is the msds for it.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/lubrication/Documents/Spec_Sheets/timken_ball_bearing_pillow_block_grease_eng.pdf

Thanks!

spawn i'd study up on that poly urea part a little bit.
it has a stickiness that is well umm sometimes kinda, it is hard to get off things.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

It turns hard with the application of too much heat and it becomes a solid "bearing". Problem is that the solid bearing created is almost never as "round" as it should be. Therefore, pay attention to what Lamar said. ... felix

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationOntario, Can!Posts103

Good points. I will try heating some up on a sheet of metal and see how it reacts to heat.

Mystic JT6 red lithium complex. Same basic stuff.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationOntario, Can!Posts103

I can get red'n'tacky no problem but I am just trying to mess around as well i would like blue lube.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman replacement 4500 heater

Has anyone used the heating element from a Lyman 4500 lubrisizer to make a universal heater? Seeing as the universal heaters are not available I was thinking of buying a replacement element and putting it in a piece of aluminum and making it fit a RCBS LAMII. Actually if you had multiple lubersizers you could make up blocks for each and just move the element as needed.

Longone

Dist rifleman, P-100, Highmaster x-course, mid range, long range prone.

"The trouble with Socialism is, sooner or later you run out of other people's money." - Margaret Thatcher

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here