6" revolver- too long for HD?

Hello

I am the proud owner of a new Ruger GP-100, 6 inch stainless. Practically still warm from the factory. I like it exceptionally well. It is very tight and seems to be quite accurate. Haven't had a chance to get it sighted in yet however, if it even needs it. Hits dead on at 30 yards regardless.

I bought this handgun mainly for range use and target shooting. However, I also am planning on using it as a home defense gun in the near future when I move. Would you consider the 6" barrel a pro or a con for a home defense revolver?

I sort of consider it a plus in some regards. Muzzle blast would be reduced especially with magnum loads (I plan on running .38 spl +Ps btw), and the muzzle heavy weight at least for me seems to keep muzzle jump down even with hot loads. I can very quickly and accurately empty the cylinder firing 158 grain .38 specials and even Federal 125 grain SJHP .357 magnums aren't much more difficult to control.

Often I hear people say a shorter handgun may be a better idea. I also VERY often hear of folks recommending 18.5-20" barrel pump shotguns for home defense duty as well. Mas Ayoob is a proponent of using handguns for home defense on the ground that they are far handier and more maneuverable than a shotgun. He advocates using a long gun only in planned areas where you can hunker down more or less, and not moving through the house with such a large weapon. I tend to agree.

So what are your thought on a 6" barreled home defense revolver? Would I have been better off to go with a shorter barrel or will the 6" tube be just fine or even advantageous?

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Chinese police service revolver

I was surprised to learn that the Chinese (quite) recently, say: 2006, issued a new service revolver to their police, providing a basic armament for units previously unarmed but seemingly replacing older types of semiautos in other units as well.

The gun is of a rather anemic 9mm caliber (around 220 joules of ME) which is considered enough to stop the common petty criminal yet far to weak to penetrate a ballistic vest if fallen into the wrong hands. A rubber bullet for crowd control is also available.

While it is funny seeing a revolver issued in 2006, the concept makes sense, after all, since it suits the needs and is the best solution in terms of both handling by minimal trained personnel and stress-resistance.

Any additional information on that gun, anybody? And, by the way: Are there other agencies worldwide switching back to revolvers you know of?

http://www.china.org.cn/english/2006/Jan/156236.htm

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Just finished my fifth revolver case

Here it is.

Here is the office wall

This new case is for cartridge revolvers. But I would hasten to mention that if you look closely you will see three revolvers which are not cartridge revolvers. I think this is a perfectly good reason to go out and look for an 1875 Remington, and a coupla nickel plated revolvers.

Do I also see some additional wall space for some more rifles?

__________________
Doc

My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government. Thomas Jefferson

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Cleaning a revolver

I do essentially what Mr Borland describes above. About once a year, pop the side plate and spray it with brake cleaner. Then use the tiniest drop of Break-Free CLP I can get out of my needle oiler. One little bitty drop on each side of the hammer and it's bearing, one LBD on the rebound slide thingie.

After shooting, I run a pretty wet patch of Break-Free CLP down the barrel and in each of the cylinder holes. Then after the drive home, I run a dry patch through to remove the excess oil. Rarely do I use a brass brush. I don't use any other chemicals or solvents. CLP removes anything I want to remove, just takes longer than something like Hoppe's #9.

I don't try and remove black marks from the cyl face.

I toothbrush around the outside of the forcing cone, allowing it to pick up any CLP that finds it's way there from the bbl patch work.

Whole thing takes maybe five minutes, dozen patches, six or eight drops of oil.

I don't ever want to see anything the consistancy of grease in any of my guns. Well worked in CLP is all I want/need/use. Been doing that for half a century.

Sgt Lumpy

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J.P. Sauer & Sonh Revolver

NO, NO TRANSFER BAR, so you have to load five.

Do a search on "Hawes Western Marshall"
I have a bunch of threads on my JP Sauer and Sons Hawes six shooter.

These are built HEAVY DUTY!
Mine has a VERY light trigger and is super reliable as well as extremely accurate.
Mine is a .357

But for my .454 Alaskan, I load with trail boss powder for light target loads.
Both for .45 Colt and in the .454 cases.

Good deal on the JP Sauer. They are great guns and way unrated by most.

(IT'S THE ONE ON THE BOTTOM!LOL)

__________________
From the sweet grass to the slaughter house; From birth until death; We travel between these two eternities........from 'Broken Trail"

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Revolver rifling.

I have a question.

I have an old brass frame Richland Arms 1858 Remmy .44 (1970's vintage no date code) with right hand twist rifling.

And a Uberti 1858 (1999 date code) with left hand twist.

And a 1965 date coded EIG (with GLB logo too) Schneider & Glassick in .36 with left hand twist rifling.

And a undated CVA (ASM marked under the loading lever) 1851 navy unfinished brass framed kit gun in .36 also with left and twist.

And my newest, an 1861 Pietta in .36 with right hand twist.

With these guns I think I have a good cross section of manufacturers.

My question is, why are some right hand twist, and others left hand?

Ian.

It's an addiction....

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What Is this revolver, and what Is It worth?

It's hard to tell. If the ejector star is black, the gun is nickel.

If it is nickel, and in such good condition, I'd say $700 or so to a collector.

Same is true for hammer and trigger, unless someone would bother switching them out. Case hardened = 586, SS = 686

The gun appears to be a 586-4 or older, since its pre lock. I think -4 is the cutoff for those pre lock guns. That will be inside the yoke, when you open the cylinder, in the revealed portion where a serial number also is.

I would say $650 to $800, because nickel isn't readily available in a 586.

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Remmington 1858 Revolver Dates ?

The caliber is not given but if it is .44, the guns are the Remington New Model Army (no, no connection with Cromwell); if in .36 caliber, they are the New Model Navy. In the U.S., .44 caliber was considered the Army caliber; the Navy (which didn't have to shoot horses) usually used the .36 caliber. In fact, of course, there was no hard and fast rule, and both services used both calibers.

Both guns are called "Model 1858" by collectors because of the patent date, but Remington did not use that nomenclature, nor did the U.S. Army, which bought some 122,000 44's and 28,000 Navy revolvers during the American Civil War. They were also a favorite of Confederate forces when they were able to capture them. In spite of the "Model 1858" designation, none were actually made until 1863, so they came on the scene later than the more common Colt revolvers. Both models were made, in percussion, until the 1870's.

Jim

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Lightening Revolver Trigger???

Hi Guys,

My wife's aunt and uncle recently decided to get a gun after a rash of burgleries in their neighborhood. My father-in-law gave them a Smith & Wesson J frame revolver that belonged to his father. I took them shooting and showed them safe gun handling and the basics of loading and firing a gun and let them try several of my guns as well.

The J frame they received is an older model that is all steel and has a shrouded hammer. The gun is still capable of firing in single action. The issue is that the double action pull is quite difficult for my wifes aunt and cocking back the hammer to put it in single action is also difficult for her. What I would like to know is how much can the trigger spring be lightened while remaining reliability?

I had her try racking the slide on some of my semi-auto guns and ahe had a difficult time with all of them. She was able to do it, but with great difficulty. I know some of you may recommend hand exercises, but she is already in her 60s. As for recommending that she check out corneredcat.com, I've already had her do that. The other option is for them to get a shotgun. I told them to always set their alarm, even during the day (since burglaries and home invasion occur more frequently during the day) and get a solid wood door for their bedroom. If the alarm goes off, the bedroom becomes their safe room and they just barricade themself with the shotgun. If someone comes through the door despite the alarm and verbal warnings, shoot them.

Any suggestions?

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Shooting steel with my Remington 1858 revolver. Back yard CBA

Shooting steel with my Remington 1858 revolver. Back yard CBA I’ve been shooting black powder revolvers for about a year and a half now and I’m just getting more and more into the sport. I take my Remington out just about every time I go to the range now. To save time and money I practice with my H&R .22lr revolver and then shoot with my Remington. I’ve gotten to the point where most days I can hit an 8” steel gong shooting one handed from 20 yards away about 5 out of 6 shots. I put up a video showing what I’m doing and how I’m training.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bXON9bh6_k&lc=FlyClWyeTsbOkQUs7ZVNs1zUBg65k584AtZ_61kuFIo

I plan on getting a London colt navy 1851 probably next month. My last colt navy did not shoot very well but I loved how it looked and felt.

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Tip when cleaning an "antiqued" C&B Revolver

I've "antiqued" three cap and ball revolvers and liked the way they turned out. However, I had to do one twice.

I decided to rinse the parts with very hot water so they would dry quickly before lubing them. The hot water turned the rust sections into dark black "bluing". That was my introduction to rust bluing.

So if you want to keep your "antique" finish intact don't clean or rinse your parts in hot water.

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Opinions on a general purpose .44 revolver mold

Boolit Buddy Join DateSep 2012Posts58

Howdy,

I've got several Keith style molds but want something new as a general purpose, cheap shooting, accurate revolver bullet. I have S&Ws old and new and I'm not likely to have a rifle or any other make revolver. For one older gun in particular I need a bigger diameter than my current molds and at the same time don't want to have to have a bunch of different loads and bullets. What I want is a standard that will cover most of my shooting - cast WW with maybe some tin, 800-1100fps, from paper to maybe a deer. I'm thinking 4-5 cavity 240 gr. RNFP plain base, .433 diameter. Something like a .300 or .312 meplat. What ogive shape is going to be best? Will I be better served with a front band like the Keiths or just a gently curved ogive, or an ogive with a little step to allow free entry of the nose into the throat? I'm kinda thinking about the Accurate mold shown below.
Whadya think?

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2013Posts79

that is the Accruate 43-240E, i was looking at that same one and have the same question... is this a classic SWC design for general use on a .44 Mag revolver?

I bet that bullet would shoot real well in a 44. I have been having a little better luck without the Keith shoulder on my bullets. I have a lot of molds with the shoulder but the ones without seem to shoot a hair better. Not a lot better. I need to shoot a bunch more before I'm sure. Sounds like a good reason to go shoot.

that'll do what you want from a rnfp.
it would be an excellent choice for just one mold to cover bout everything you need done with a 44.
I use a very, very similar boolit for my general stuff loads.
the only thing you have to really measure is the nose sticking out of the case
for cartridge oal.
2/3rds bearing length and @ 1/4 bore rider is pretty good if you wanna push things hard.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Buddy Join DateSep 2011Posts59

fluxed, 3/22/13

I've got a similar mold from Tom at AM with the 431-250grain-E. The boolits drop at about 0.432" for my slugged barrel of 0.429" on my SW 329 44sp/mag. I run the 44 special loads at 825 ft/sec which works fine for plinking and as my backup pig gun to my 12 gauge slug gun. I shoot mine unsized, pan lubed and there is no leading. Hard to beat an AccurateMold. Good luck.

best wishes- oldandslow

Ive had excellent results in about 8, 44 mag revolvers with the Saeco#420 200gr TC bullet

A deer isn't going to notice the difference, but the Keith's do make prettier holes in paper. If you're shooting for score or looking with a spotting scope from a long way off, this matters, if not, then not.

I had an e-mail conversation with Tom at Accurate regarding Keith-ish shoulders on .45ACP boolits. He said that current thinking tends to state a wide meplat is enough to shove meat out of the way and that a Keith shoulder really has no function in that particular application. What a slight shoulder DOES do for you however, is give a well-defined starting/stopping point for uniform sizing. RNFP's (he says) tend to size higher on one side than the other. While I don't necessarily take it as gospel, Tom does seem to know more than a thing or two on the topic - so were I in your shoes, I might be looking at his 43-240T, which has a slight shoulder well short of the classic Keith profile. (My .45 quest ended with a 45-230F designed on this concept)

WWJMBD?

I like my science WEIRD.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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