Thank you to all that share their knowledge.

Thank you to all that share their knowledge. I wanted to thank all of those here that share their knowledge and expertise with those like me, new to this hobby. Brian, Unclenick, BigJim and many others not only respond accurately, but do so in a way to encourage learning. I have been skulking among the forums for about six months now, and decided I had something worth sharing. It might be a tad long introduction.

A little background - in December, my best friend told me he was going to build his own AR-15. Knowing him well, and also knowing he wouldn't make that claim without some research. We talked about for the ensuing weeks, and thanks to him he pointed me in direction of videos out there by pros building their own rifles (thank you ITS Tactical and others!). With more reading and research I ordered a lower receiver and other parts from different suppliers. Was kind of a fun treasure hunt right in the thick of abnormally high demand. I was successful in building my rifle piece be piece, and verified at the range soon after. I probably would not have purchased a rifle straight off the shelf, but thru building one, the knowledge of what is going on each time you pull the trigger is priceless.

So, then the ammo crunch and bare shelves at Wal-Mart, shooting my rifle becomes difficult for a bit, and empowered by my recent creation, immediately began to research reloading. ABCs, Modern, Lyman's 49th and endless Internet info. I was leaning single stage or turret, but really liked the Dillon 550. I know a lot of people here think single stage was the way to start, but my best friend had a good nugget of wisdom again. He said I could load one round at a time on a Dillon too, then could 'grow' into the full progressive function when ready. And I give a methodical engineering approach to most things, and decided I would go slow enough to always be safe. Also my shop is free from distractions - a bonus room off the garage. Saw that there was an 8 week wait on the Dillon in April, and pulled the trigger. HA!

While waiting, I picked up a tumbler, puller, scale, calipers, trimmer, prep tool and commenced to prepping the brass I had been collecting from range visits. I was going to load .45 ACP and .223 specifically which covers all weapons. My wife also likes to shoot, so reloading was a no-brainer. Received the press two weeks ago and set up all my dies, and loaded two different loads in both calibers to test. Went to the range yesterday and I can now say I successfully loaded both types of ammo. ))). The .45 with a 4.7 of Red Dot was smooth as silk through the Glock and Kahr. With my test .223, my first two shots at 25 yds in my rifle, checked with scope, and I split the upper arms of the X and the lower with the 2 shots (24.3 gns of TAC). So once again, thank you to all that share experience here for us laymen - it is much appreciated.

__________________
When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty. - Thomas Jefferson

I swear by my life and love if it, I will live for no other, nor ask another to live for me. - John Galt

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Just thought I would share this...

Tried water quenching yesterday with 45/70 boolits. With the first batch we poured, waited approx 15 seconds for set then tapped the sprew and immediately dropped into a 5 gallon bucket filled with water. These Boolits did not turn out to well. They hardened too fast, dented and cracked easy.

The 2nd batch we did the same but what made a big difference was letting them air dry on a rag for approx. 1 minute then dropped into the water bucket. They hardened up nicely and kept their perfect shape.

They hardened too fast, dented and cracked easy.

[I]That doesn't sound right. What sort of alloy where you using?[/I]

The 2nd batch we did the same but what made a big difference was letting them air dry on a rag for approx. 1 minute then dropped into the water bucket. They hardened up nicely and kept their perfect shape.

After cooling for one minute and then water droping I doubt there was much difference in hardness. Did you test hardness between the water dropped and air cooled?

I've got the itch, but don't got the scratch.

Strange? I drop from the mold as soon as sprue flashes over into a bucket of cold water, no cracking.

the sprue is still liquid on some of mine.
I think I count about 6 after pouring on the 45-70 mold to break it open and dump it into water.
if you had the boolits breaking up, you are running things waaay too hot.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

the sprue is still liquid on some of mine.
I think I count about 6 after pouring on the 45-70 mold to break it open and dump it into water.
if you had the boolits breaking up, you are running things waaay too hot.Well it was a lee mold and they were coming out a tad frosted. Probably a little to hot hence the cracking. Makes sense.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Need a partner to share in building melting pots

Some time ago I built 2 larger electric melting pots and I documented one of these here: http://bliksemseplek.com/boolits.html

I recently acquired 4 x 1600W 240V 6"idx4"h heater bands and am looking for somebody to share in the spoils/effort. The deal I am interested in is for somebody to supply the 4 black steel tubes needed and I will supply a complete unit made up and ready to connect to your power source. The capacity of the pot is about 45lbs so get ready for some serious casting with one of these. I will document the project progress here to encourage others that are contemplating doing this kind of project themselves.

Bliksem

I wish I had some pipe to send you. How much would a pot such as this cost?

Got some specks on the pipe you need? A guy could always poke around behind the barn and see what he trips on.
itry

Everytime somone messes with the 2nd amendment it reminds of the guy who lost his arm while poking at a bear. He made the mistake of assuming that the bear was sleeping. Vote smart.

I wish I had some pipe to send you. How much would a pot such as this cost?Other than my time the previous units cost less than $50 to build. The 4 heater bands I just got cost me about $10 each so the cost should be about the same. I don't buy at retail but scour the surplus sales on evilbay and Craigslist for bands. The component that adds the most value to the smelter setup is a PID controller. These I don't scrimp on and I like to support Auber Instruments. So for about $200 I have a setup that makes casting a pleasure.

Got some specks on the pipe you need? A guy could always poke around behind the barn and see what he trips on.
itryThe pipe needs to be a true 6" OD but can be thin wall black steel. I'm not familiar with the schedule gauges but 1/8" thick walls are ok. The pipe I used for my previous units were scraps from the fire control sprinkler system fitted at one of our packing facilities. Not heavy gauge and not rust proof but was easy to work with.

The plan is to make one for myself, one for a newbie I got hooked to casting, one for the pipe donor and the fourth will be donated to be auctioned here to help Ken.

Each pot will need a 5-6" long section and all the other materials and fabrication I will supply.

This is what the heater looks like.

I had a PM question and I need to clarify my offer/request. You supply me tubes for the 4 smelting pots and you will receive one unit ready to use in return for supplying the tubes.

FYI, 6" steel PIPE is going to be 6.625" OD, regardless of the Schedule, the ID varies, getting smaller as the Schedule # goes up. I think to get a true 6" OD you would have to go to tubing material which is spec'd by OD and wall thickness.

Pipe will be a bunch cheaper than tubing but if it won't fit iside the heater band that is a moot point.

When you say 6" diameter, is that 6.00" or do you have a fairly loose range to work with that is around 6", for instance 5.75"-6.25" or 5.5"-6.5".

You can get pretty much just want you want, if you are willing to pay tubing prices.

http://www.arcelormittal.com/tubular/images/ArcelorMittal_DOMSpecs.pdf

If you can use a standard pipe size, then things get a whole lot less expensive.

http://www.maselmon.com/Content.aspx?ContentID=24

?an armed society is a polite society.?
Robert A. Heinlein

"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus

FYI, 6" steel PIPE is going to be 6.625" OD, regardless of the Schedule, the ID varies, getting smaller as the Schedule # goes up. I think to get a true 6" OD you would have to go to tubing material which is spec'd by OD and wall thickness.

Pipe will be a bunch cheaper than tubing but if it won't fit iside the heater band that is a moot point.

Alan,

The diameter needed is 6.0". Thanks for sharing how the schedule works as I was not aware what the relationships between sizes and schedule are. Hopefully somebody here has access to what is needed or I will just have more bits to add to my bone yard.

Mechanical tubing isnt a "schedule" plumbing pipe its is made to a specific Id od and wall thickness. It is more expensive than standard black iron pipe. but has a better finish and normally is a stronger alloy.

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationOntario, Can!Posts105

based on the crimp in the pipe of your first pot, if you want the same thing, you need to be looking for sprinkler piping. so call around to various sprinkler system installers.

From Speedy Metals 6" tube with .250" wall thickness is $6.31 per inch. $25.24 for a 4 inch piece, or $100.96 for 4 pieces plus shipping, which in my case would be $22.84. Not a bad price, of course free would be better.
http://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3610-8242-6-od-x-250-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx

A single 18" piece would be $95.87 and a couple of dollars less shipping.

Paul G.
Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller

Thanks for the details. I will see what I can come up with. itry

Everytime somone messes with the 2nd amendment it reminds of the guy who lost his arm while poking at a bear. He made the mistake of assuming that the bear was sleeping. Vote smart.

I can get the pipe very easy, My friend owns a shop here and I CAN get about anything you need.

Thank you for this source. It might be an option and I will think about it once this crazy week is done.,work sure interferes with casting boolits and shooting.

based on the crimp in the pipe of your first pot, if you want the same thing, you need to be looking for sprinkler piping. so call around to various sprinkler system installers.I don't need the crimp but the off-cuts I were given were from the ends of prefabricated pipes and they came with the gift. I did call the installer but they had no 6" pipe.

McMaster sells vacuum vessel material which is true 6"OD with 2mm wall thickness at not too high a price. I am just having to wait until this weekend to have time to decide how to proceed.

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013LocationAmerican by birth, Southern by the Grace of GodPosts18

I will be getting bids from two fabricators on another project I am doing this Monday. I will check and see if they have anything and send a pm.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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