10 Bore Purdey Style Double Rifle Builds

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Double Standard

Does anyone else find it strange that while our 2A rights are under attack for the purpose of safety and reducing violence that we are going to send weapons and ammunition to Syrian "Rebel" civilians? I'm sure they are not going to be bolt action hunting rifles and they won't have to fill out an ATF form for a full auto version. Do you think they will send them AK-47s from some vendor or are we going to send M-4s so we can make a sale?

I wonder if the Syrian government in power confiscated their (civilian) weapons sometime in the past and now they are in need of weapons to defend themselves against a tyrannical government. Maybe they are in need of some 2A.

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Pulling to the right on double action trigger

I have a double action CZ 75 BD. I was doing some dry fire practice today with snap caps and putting a coin (a dollar coin to be specific) on the top sight and practicing trigger pull. I noticed that I could always keep the coin on during the first pull but not the second. the gun fires in double action with snap caps obviously so I don't work on the single action pull much because that's already beautiful with this gun.

Anyways, when I took the coin off and looked down the sights, I noticed that I pulled slightly to the right pulling the trigger. I could take up the slack and get it to half-cock fine, but the extra force to pull the trigger pulled my front sight to the right regardless of how slow I pulled. It wasn't too drastic, my front sight remained mostly in between the back two, but it was a noticeable pull to the left.

How do I fix this? Is this just a strength issue?

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High brass OK for Stevens double?

Today, 05:48 AM High brass OK for Stevens double? A few years ago I got an old Wards 20 GA side-by-side double with 28" barrels. It is a Stevens model 50 with Ward's label on it. It is 50 or 60 years old, but has no rust, it locks up solid, stock is solid, triggers work fine, everything works smooth.
I have been using low brass target loads with 8 shot. I want to shoot Federal or Remington high brass with #4 shot -- 2-3/4 inch, 2-3/4 drams, 1 ounce of shot, 1220 fps. I also want to use loads with 1 ounce of #3 Buckshot. I guess that will not be too much pressure for this shotgun, but am not absolutely sure. What do you knowledgeable forum members think? __________________
Greenhorn Dave
Florida




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Double duty 9mm/.38 mold

I'm thinking about buying a new mold, a nice Accurate 5 cavity. I've heard nothing but good about them.

I don't have a 9mm mold at the present, and the mold I use for .38 Spl is the little Lee 105swc. I like the bullets, but the two cavity is just too slow. So, I'm thinking about spending the bucks and getting a good one that will work well for both 9mm and .38 (my HP 9mm slugs .357+ so I'd just size them all to .358).

I'm thinking that something around 120 gr would be ideal for both. I like the lighter 105 gr, but haven't used them in 9mm. I wonder if the lighter bullet would reliably cycle a semi auto?

I'm looking right now at something like the 35-125B http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=3

Any thoughts on how this design might work in both wheelguns and autoloaders?

I originally bought the Lee 358-105 SWC for use in a .380 ACP for which it worked quite well. I later started using is in 9mm which behaved like a H&G 68 in .45 ACP. As a plinker it was very accurate and grouped nicely.

In the 9mm, I prefer at least 125 grains so I have used the heck out of the 356-125 2R. Mine drops at .359 and weighs 126 grains with range scrap. I size to .358 for my .380s, 9mms and my .38/.357 S&W M13. A year or so ago I picked up the 355-120 TC for use in the 9mm.this one drops at .3585 and weighs 125 not 120 which I'm happy with. This also shoots quite well in .38 loads and mid .357 loads. Any hotter and I use plain based gas checks from soda can material.

I have read a bunch where folks are using the 358-125 RF in the 9mm but I haven't picked that one up yet. A buddy sent me a couple hundred he cast so I could try them. Try them I will once I have more primers to play with. Just by looking at the boolits I can tell this is another must have mold for use in .38 and 9mm loads.

"Silence in the face of tyranny implies consent, and I do not consent." Mike Vanderbough, April 20, 2013

I know talking about Lee will not help in your pursuit of an Accurate mold but for comparison I use the Lee TL356-124-TC. Mine drop right around the designated weight and shoot very well from either a 9mm or a 38/357 if not sized. I am using Unique between 4.3 and 4.5 grns. I have actually found this bullet to shoot better in my .38's then the 158 grn semi wad cutter I had been using.

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

I got one of the NOE RG 359 135gr RF just for this purpose, it is made to load both 9mm and 38s along with 357s. I believe NOE has them in stock in 5 cavities without the RG feature. I have 3- 9mm, 3 - 38s and 2- 357s, they all shoot them great. either HPed or FN. My mold drops 131 gr. HP and 137 FN with my alloy mixed 50/50 with PB.

For the Republic,

Ken

Screwbolts Lead, smelted lead alloy from Bullet traps of Gun manufacturers, from jacketed Pistol and rifle bullets. Fluxed and skimmed three times with bees wax and pine saw dust. 20 lbs and 40 lbs boxes.

This alloy has been verified by customers and myself to be a BHN of 11.5

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?173-Screwbolts-Lead-Area

???O? ????
I'll cling to my God and my guns, and you can keep the "Change".

Boolit Master Join DateAug 2007LocationSo. IndianaPosts399

That bullet should work for the 38 provided you crimp forward of the last driving band in the revolver as long as it drops from the mold at least .357 diameter. Maybe you could ask them which mold works best for both? Since it does not have a crimp groove, it will probably not work in a lever rifle. I am using Lee's 356-125TL 2R in a 38 revolver for light training loads at about 700 FPS and these bullets drop over .358 diameter. I am simulating the old 38 short colt for recoil sensitive (women) shooters in a light allow Colt cobra. I have to crimp this bullet past the last TL groove as it almost protrudes from the cylinder of an official police revolver is I crimp on the last micro lube groove. I don't like to go under 125 out of a 38 special because with fixed sights, the bullets usually print too low at the 25 yard range.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Single Action vs Double Action vs SA/DO

DA only, racking it only chambers the round and the trigger does everything. Basically yes... with a couple of caveats.

Many DAO pistols use a pre-set hammer or striker that is initially partially cocked by the slide. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer or striker is drawn back the rest of the way and released; the hammer or striker is then partially cocked again as the slide cycles. This system reduces the length and/or weight of the DAO trigger pull.

The reason this is significant is that many pre-set DAO pistols lack second-strike or repeat-strike capability- the ability to pull the trigger repeatedly and hit the same round multiple times if it does not fire on the first attempt. Pistols that lack this capability MUST be manually cleared in the event of a failure-to-fire, because the trigger does nothing once the hammer or striker is decocked. Common pistols that lack this capability include Glocks, the S&W M&P and Sigma series, Kel-Tecs, and the Ruger LCP and LC9.

Some pre-set DAO pistols do have second-strike capability, although a subsequent trigger stroke is usually longer and/or heavier than the initial DA pull; examples include HKs with the LEM trigger and SIGs with the DAK trigger.

Other DAO pistols do not have pre-set hammers or strikers, in which case the hammer or striker always starts from the same position, giving the pistol second-strike capability by default. Common examples include the Beretta 92D and 96D and the SIG P250. (In other words, the trigger works basically the same way as the trigger of a DA revolver, minus the ability to hand-cock the hammer for single-action fire.)

Other related notes...

Almost all traditional DA/SA hammer-fired pistols have second-strike capability.

A handful of DA/SA hammer-fired pistols feature a half-cock notch. Half-cock notches were originally intended as a safety feature on older SAO designs (although they were often dubiously effective as such); however, on a DA/SA pistol, they generally serve the same purpose as a pre-set hammer on a DAO pistol- i.e. reduction of the DA pull length and/or weight. DA/SA pistols with this feature include the CZ 75 and early versions of the Beretta 81-series (which includes the 84 through 87).

__________________
"Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling. There are rules... MARK IT ZERO!!" - Walter Sobchak

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Double Bull blinds worth it?

I'm expanding some hunting that I'm doing and my son is getting of age where he'll be coming with me and doing hunting as well. I read a lot of "reviews" for the Primos Double Bull, and I'm looking at the Double Wide model.

I'm interested in hearing from guys that have 'em, are they worth the money? I had read both ways that the quality either went down or that was a myth when Primos bought them, but I have an Ameristep Doghouse that I want to throw away afte I've used it for 5 years. It's cumbersome at best and I want a hub style.

Magnetic mesh shoot through screens, silent slide blind window, 180 degree shooting window all sound awesome, but I would like real world reviews from somebody not paid to give one.

Thanks all

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