lubes for molds

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationMichiganPosts116

just wondering what everybody uses to lube their molds after a session of casting? I would like to use wd40.

Do not lube mine at all, takes too much effort to get them clean again before the next casting session. Just put them in an air tight container with some silica dessicant, which once a year gets reactivated in the microwave oven.

Do not lube mine at all, takes too much effort to get them clean again before the next casting session. Just put them in an air tight container with some silica dessicant, which once a year gets reactivated in the microwave oven.Same here.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

I don't lube my moulds after use either, unless they were being put away for long term storage, because of the need to get them oil free for use next time.

Mine just sit on shelves in the boxes they came in the unheated garage which is my casting workshop. I have never had and rusting rusting issues and I'm in the damp UK.

Except for long term storage, I don't oil 'em down; when I do, I don't use WD-40. I happen to like WD-40 but for iron alloy molds I use a good gun oil.

When I cleaned the Cosmoline out of my Garands (cleaning kit storage hole), I kept it. I've used some of it for really long term iron mold preservative. As far as I can tell, it works just fine.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

No oil, ever. I spend too much time and effort getting them clean to just put it back when I am done.

I bought a couple old Lyman iron molds at a estate sale a couple years ago. Ed Harris or C. E. Harris who wrote the NRA Cast Bullet manual and supplements recommended that I just coat my iron molds with a light coat of USP Mineral Oil for storage if rusting can be an issue.

There is no need to clean the mold before casting as the mineral oil burns off cleanly as the mold is preheated on a hot plate before casting leaving no residue and only producing a wisp of white smoke as it burns off. I've used this method for years with no issues.

Too much trouble to clean. If you need to store so they won't rust, try a sealed ammo can with dessicant.

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. H.L. Mencken

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Melting lubes safely

I have been making emmerts improved for my Black powder loads. I use a make shift double boiler to melt and blend all the ingedients together. This means alot of standing for me ( I have MS, mobility and balance issues). I pan lube my bullets normally and pour a sheets for grease cookies also. What I am wondering is if a double boiler is the only safe way or could a slow cooker would give low med and high temp settings, or a deep fryer would give actual heat settings or something else, that could be started and left unattended for short periods? Tonight I made Emmerts up and ended up with 18 cupcake tin cakes of lube. A little over 2 lbs. Other than making grease cookies and pan lubing this will last awhile for me. WHat do you guys use to melt lubes and where

I use a toaster oven top pan lube in. Set the timer for twenty minutes at about 200 degrees, let it cool a bit then set a manicurist fan in the door.

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I tried the double boiler, IMO, too much work. A 1qt crock pot w/ removeable crock, about $15 new @ Target or Wally. Buy one with two heat settings.

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Most electric hotplates are continuously adjustable. This means you can find (and mark) a setting for minimum heat needed to reach desired temp. Trivets will help spread heat. Aluminum is better than steel for this. By this means, you may be able to forego the double boiler. Actually, as long as you don't burn the beezwax or other ingredients, there is no real problem how you apply heat.

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I have been making lubes for over 5 years. When I first started I also read where the double broiler is the way to go. I tried using a regular pot and had a flare up. The double broiler is not that expensive when compared to other reloading and casting tools. It is safe, fast and does a much better job of heat control. You will never burn your lube when using one as it is the steam that heats the upper pot.
A regular pot is putting the heat directly to the lube.
You may use two standard pots to heat with until you purchase the double broiler. You just find one pot that will allow you to put water in the bottom pot and then the lube pot on top. That is what I did until I purchased my broiler.
It is the same as using any other incorrect tool. If you do it wrong you could have bad results sooner or later. It is better to use the proven method. Later David

Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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changing lubes in a sizer

If I want to try another lube in my sizer should I clean out the previous lube, and if so how?? Or could I just add the new type on top of the old and run it until I start getting the new stuff???

Melt it out. Either boil the whole thing in a pot with some dishwashing detergent (1 teaspoon per gallon of water) or use a heat lamp, heat 'gun', blow dryer, or the sizer base heater if you have one.

Gear

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Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011Posts940

Isn't it amazing that no one has developed a lube sizer cartridge, like a caulking gun so you could change lubes easily...???

What a PITA to change lubes......

I use a heat gun to get mine out.

Boolit Bub Join DateJan 2013LocationSudbury, ONPosts24

+1 for the heat gun, if your using hard lubes. For soft lubes like SPG, & DGL, I remove the sizing die and use a cordless drill with the proper 1/4" drive socket, and spin the screw in the same direction as "lubing" (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) and squeeze the lube out of the die cavity. Then I apply the heat gun for the last bits of lube. Works for me!

Mike

I know I have a problem! I'm not asking for a cure.......just the next fix!

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationDetroitPosts127

If you have a boiler at your work, ask it's operator to stick it under his water sample blow out.

I'm a boiler operator, and when I need to clean out lube I take it to work and in about 6 seconds all the lube is gone. I also use it to melt the mystery lube out of bullets so I can use TAC#1 on them instead.

I guess 212 degree water at about 50 psi is just about perfect for getting rid of problem wax.

"Just try to remember which end makes the bad guys go away."

Del-Ray-----Is Tac#1 a lube---why do you like it, etc, etc---where do you get it, etc, cost, etc
thanx HM77

Thanx Lotto---now I have something else to try and invent---but it would definitely be worth it ???

handy man the tac#1 is a lube you get here from vendor sponsor RandyRat as for price I don't remember, I haven't shot a lot with it but it worked well when I used it, check him out in the vendor sponsors section. Hope that helped out.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationDetroitPosts127

Indeed give randyrat a PM. TAC#1 is a medium hardness line.
I've used it for 45 colt, 44mag, and several other calipers. No leading. And those 44's were REALLY cruising. Keith must have been an investor in Tylenol.

"Just try to remember which end makes the bad guys go away."

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here