I use rivets at many stress points as I have no desire to have a failure and then need to redo.
I find that I may make a couple before I really like the result. I use hand stitching, with a hand awl that has the thread in the small bobbin.
I usually use a lacing punch to make the holes because it is hard and dangerous to try and push the needle through 2 or more layers of leather thick enough to make good holsters.
I usually double and triple stitch in stress areas.
Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
This latest rifle and a mild bend in the barrel, someone had painted it flat black, inside the action, bolt, trigger assy, everything. At first I though it was Ceracoated, but there were large places on the barrel it was coming off. Washed it all down the Denatured Alcohol, that took every bit of what ever it was off and it looks band new now. I chucked it up in the lathe and using hydraulic rams I straightened the barrel to within .001" and lightened the trigger pull to 2.5 pounds. I also cleaned several years of carbon out of the barrel and fixed a problem with the scope.
I'm sure whom ever had this thing is saying they would never own another 700, because no way could they have hit anything with it. They probably got mad and did something that bent the barrel.
I had some 270's already loaded so I took it out today and shot three, three shot groups @ 100 yards and they averaged about 1 1/2" groups
Since this is still a stock, factory rifle, other than the trigger adjustment and the only one I have, I've gotten a brainfart. I'm pretty dang good and making a rifle shoot extremely well so I'm thinking of getting a few factory loads and shoot a couple of groups for a baseline. Then I will start working my magic and documenting everything as I go. Doing all my little tricks that most anyone can do to the rifle (no special machine work like blue printing), and building an accurate load just to show how much one can improve a rifle with the proper TLC.
The problem is, this may be a long drawn out project if I get it done. The first of August I will be going back to Texas for a few months.
Last edited by BKeith; Yesterday at 05:15 PM.
If this is in the wrong spot mods, please moveI was wondering if someone could point me in the direction to make my own 45 colt blanks. I have a friend that is looking to make these and was wondering how its done. Can the blanks be reloaded?
Any help would be appreciated. These are being used shooting at balloons. Go figure.
"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin
I would think charge with smokeless or black and pack a tight plug of sheet styrofoam on top.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. H.L. Mencken
Like the green plant kind? Is that legal for shooting the balloons in competition?
"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin
I was thinking just white stryofoam. Throwing out ideas. Sorry, I don't know anything about shooting the balloons and failed to mention that.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. H.L. MenckenYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
I just bought a S&W model 52-2 brand new and am having trouble finding 148gr HBWCs. Does anyone here swage them?
Tough to swage them.However, Mihec has some nose pour 148 gr HBWC molds that he did a while ago. Not sure if he has any left, but I have one of the molds, and they are amazing to cast with.
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Author of a book on reloading
I beg to differ Duke a hollow base wadcutter would be very easy to swage. one would need a formed internal punch on a corbin or RCE setup. I could make a .357 hollow point lead bullet if I didnt point form it and all you wanted was a solid flat wadcutter point I could swage you ten or so to see if they work.
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287could you draw down a 9mm case to make .357? you would be going from 0.388 to .357, maybe draw it down .01 at a time and do this three times?
could you draw down a 9mm case to make .357? you would be going from 0.388 to .357, maybe draw it down .01 at a time and do this three times?Yes you can I do but I do it in one operation. only takes one draw.
I do too. (Make 357s from 9mm). Pic in my avatar. I anneal, then run them through a Lee 9mm factory crimp die rim first. I drilled the aluminum top stem out .375 and made a special extended punch. This gets them down to about .362Then I run them mouth up through a .357 lee push through die. Cast up cores and melt them into the jackets. Then up into a 222 Rem resizing die to form a TC type profile. A 30 cal 113gr mold works about right for the cores, finished bullets come out around 180 gr. The ones in my avatar use a 92gr core and have a 6mm air soft pellet in the end and are right around 158-160 grains.
I load these in .357 mag but they would work in 38s too. If you really want wad cutters, you could use a slightly lighter core and not form the TC, then load them up with the rim pointing forward. I'd recommend bonding the cores in that case though, so they don't move in the jackets under recoil.
Of course it's a bit more work than just casting HBWCs, but it's fun!
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287earthling those look awesome... so you are essentially drawing them down twice then point forming in the 222 resizing die...after you point form are you resizing the bullet to shooting dimensions? when I run my 40/10mm swages in the 220 Swift sizing die for point forming the dimensions change from top to bottom and i need to final size the bullet in another die i have made, but it works...
i am doing all my swaging/drawing with a Rockchucker so i need to draw down in smaller steps to keep the forces down on the press
i agree that swaging is a lot of fun, adds to casting and reloading
edit: making swaging dies and tools might be the best part of it!
Last edited by Cane_man; Today at 11:13 AM.
After point form I usually run them back through the Lee .357 sizer just in case, but they offer very little resistance. And the ones I've checked have never measured oversize.Oh, and I use a Lee Classic Cast for swaging.
Here's a pic of some 45 Colt bullets I'm working on, these I put in the Hardinge collet lathe at work and hollow pointed with a center drill, #3 I think...
Left to right:
40 S&W Empty
Expander punch I made that fits in a Lee Universal Expander Die
Expanded casing
205gr pure lead core
Bullet after core seating
Bullet after nose forming in a 243 FL sizing die
Bullet after hollow pointing on lathe
I also make bullets for my 9mm from drawn and trimmed down 380 brass.
9mm Empty, Drawn & Trimed Jacket, 67gr core, swaged bullet.
Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but the OP did ask about swaging...
And one last note. These aren't my original ideas, got it all from this fine forum.
Last edited by earthling121757; Today at 05:27 PM.
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287very nice work! it is all there in the archives for sure... right now i think most of the pistol rounds are do-able at home with a small bench top lathe and Lee dies... rifle bullets, well not so sure at this point, the brick wall is the point forming die, making a 223 6s at home? have not figured that one out yet but working on it...You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
I have been struggling, bound and determined I'm going to do this. Made my own dies, they aren't as perrdy as BT's and don't make the top shelf boolits his does, but they make useable boolits and with ease. It took some adjustments to my presses but I'm now doing the whole she-bang with my creations. Gosh I'm pleased. And it's thanks to you guys cause you share info on this forum. It's great!!!!
Wellll..... purdy or not, we gotta see some photos! You can't have a successful project like that and just "tell" us about it--we gotta SEE it, too! Show off what you accomplished!
Guns have only two real enemies; Rust and Politicians...
"Praying might get you to heaven, but trespassing will expedite the journey..."
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Great job be we require you to post some pics!
Ok guys, here's a pic. I'm expermenting with core sizes to get the weight I want. I was so excited to have this work I sit and make a few just to see it happen.
I'd like to see some 10 shot groups
Can I ask what you have for equipment and what was the rough cost? I have been looking at maybe taking doing but just don't know where to begin, have to do more research.
These have been coming out heavier than I really want and I need to get a core weight down a bit and more consistant. These are about 70 gr. I have some playing around to do but I'm just so pleased that I, with my little mini-lathe, was able to do this. As far as costs, I don't know. I bought some Grade 5, 7/8x14 bolts that are 3" long. I have not mastered threading on the lathe and using a thread die, have trouble getting straight and good threads. I've had very good luck making D reamers, the polishing and that darned push-out punch were my obsticals. I ordered some 1/16" allen wrenchejection pins and could not get them to work. had to go to a bit heavier pin and I used a cut off allen wrench, for the task. My derimming die is a Lee .224 Boolit sizer with a smaller punch I made to hold the 22lr cases. The core seater I made out of another 7/8" bolt and made a top punch for it. The bottom punch is the one that come with the Boolit sizer. Lots of time, really not much cost. I truelly respect what BT and others have done to make these for sale. My little set-up is far from the product these guys sell. But for me, it's working and I'm pleased.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
