I don't know if he sold it elsewhere or he still has it.
__________________Loaded up 4 test batches of ammo last night :
All had the following specs except for the powder grain:
Bullet: 55gr HP Flat Tail (Generic Brand - Full jacket)
Case trim length - 1.746 (pre-sized)
C.O.A.L. - 2.222
Powder - AR-COMP
Weapon platform: AR-15 - 16" RECCE Barrel - 1:8 Twist - Mid Length Gas System - Suppressed (yes, I'm testing with a suppressor as that is how I shoot)
Batch 1 @ 24.5gr
Batch 2 @ 25gr
Batch 3 @ 25.3gr
Batch 4 @ 25.5
10 rounds per batch
At the 25.5 mark, it was a true compression load and I stopped.
But waking up this morning proved difficult, and it's still pouring the rain down - and I don't feel like toting everything to an indoor range and using the light diffuser on the chrony. So, this test will have to wait.
I'm going to load 4 batches with Hornady V-Max in 50 grains today starting at 22 grains and working up to 24.5...unless anyone has data for AR-COMP that says I'm at the max for those.\ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\eek.gif "EEK!")
There is surprisingly little data for AR-COMP yet, even on loaddata.com and even less for the lighter bullets.
Make sure there isnt debris under the piece where it slides in
I hope you get it set up.......My shield 40 is my favorite pistol
__________________Buying American made, wherever I still can
I have a couple hundred pounds of sorted WW (both clip-on and stick-on) that I'd like to trade for some already cast 358-125 RNFP, 358-140 SWC, and 358-158 RNFP. I envision shipping in a medium flat rate box in exchange for some reasonable ratio of cast bullets.
If anyone is interested, please let me know via PM.
Boolit Man Join DateDec 2011LocationDyess AFB , Abilene TxPosts96I cast 358477 it's a swc plain base 158 grain ill gladly trade u I can lube and size to 358 to with Felix lube also have both the 358 molds u speak of the 125 and 158 lets make a dealYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
One short & fat:
The other sleek and svelt:
I'd consider getting a bushing conversion set and expanding your options
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/858110/hornady-lock-n-load-press-and-die-conversion-bushing-kit
I follow the recommendation and don't use them in 40 S&W, 357 Sig and 357 Mag of higher pressure loads.
On a couple of revolvers that had high firing pin protrusion, a few cracked in the center. To keep this from happening, I uniformed the pockets and switched to CCI primers. I don't know if the Rems would have cracked again after uniforming, but I didn't want to take a chance on eroding the tip of the firing pin.
I have a Schofield Replica, and the factory grips are too short for my hands. I've found a lot of "Custom Grips", but they are all the same length as the factory grips.
K Squared
I have the Uberti R-M conversion in both the '51 Navy and the '60 Army. With the Army I shoot .44 Colt, my choice as this would be the more period correct caliber. I shoot, and reload, only BP so can not speak to smokeless ammo. The .44 Colt is a great round but somewhat difficult to find, even in the best of times, at least here abouts. Reloading is easy, but adds to initial cost of the sport, once you accumulate the components it is all clear sailing with .44 brass the hardest to find. If you reload, and want to go the .44 Colt route I can point you in the direction of dies and component suppliers.
Good shooting.\ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\biggrin.gif "Big Grin")
The .30 Gov't 06 = .30-06 Springfield.
The BBGV is (1) waaay behind the curve, when it comes to current values, and (2) doesn't take into account regional price fluctuations of supply/demand.
What it IS good for is (1) determining exactly what you have (Model, year, etc), and (2) the condition (the front of the book has many excellent representational pice of various "conditions")
A large consideration in estimating a value, besides the make, etc, would be it's current condition (compared to new, not simply "good"), it's exact model, and it's features and/or disclosure of any known defects like rust, dents, scratches, cracks, & alterations.
The best way to determine your gun's true value, besides putting them into a worldwide (www) guns-only auction, would be to surf ONLY sold/closed gun auctions to find out what somebody has actually recently paid for another example in like condition.
Please remember that an "opening bid", or unsold "prices" are not a value - they are simply whatever someone decides to ask for their firearm.
.
Last edited by PetahW; Today at 02:16 PM.Exploding water jugs!
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Exploding water jugs!
greetings,
I would like to find a 451 mold for 45 acp that you may no longer be needing or using ?
less than 230 gr. probably be a hole puncher in paper bullet.Thanx
casca
" BRING DOWN THIS WALL"
President Ronald Reagan
1988
What boolit profile interests you? How many cavities? Are you interested in traditional or tumble lube? I have an old Lee 230 grain RN mold I no longer use because I had to seat the boolit too deeply to get proper functioning. The mold was actually used very little, but by the time you pay shipping and my asking price you're going to be very close to the cost of a new one. Lee that is, no idea about other makes.
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.
what would be the advantage of buying new over buying from you ?
would like a double cavity, if price is right we both could walk away happyPM me
casca
" BRING DOWN THIS WALL"
President Ronald Reagan
1988
Actually, you want .452 for .45 ACP.Bill
If it was easy, anybody could do it.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Estimated Amount Due: $90.94 (after adding shipping + hazmat).
__________________I have also found another brand sold locally that is not hideously expensive, yet seems to have a nice design: Ghost holsters, specifically the "Civilian Inside" holster. It is a Theis style holster.
My Galco makes my gun very concealable indeed, but also makes he gun somewhat hard to pull out quickly. More practice would improve that, but it will never be a quick draw holster. I also find that re-holstering in the tiny Soft-Tuk is nigh on impossible with one hand.
As usual, keeping my options open!!
__________________I'm also considering the popular S&W M&P 15-22 (Standard) and the somewhat maligned Walther/Colt M4 Ops. After reading numerous threads on this Forum, I am dropping from consideration the Mossberg 715T.
I've been toying with the idea of building a "Ohio" style half stock for general plinking but by the time I get the parts/pieces - I'm looking at around $600 - unfortunately, I have many of the parts but they are at my home in AZ - and I really don't have the time right now to build another rifle. Much of my plinking now is at 25 yards and sometimes 50 yards. I've been looking at the Traditions "Crockett Rifle" - from the reviews I read on DGW all of them were positive and spoke well of the little rifle. I haven't had the opportunity to see on in person though but have thought about just ordering one as they look they would fit the bill for a good little plinker. So . . . if you have one, can you advise . . .
What is the stock made from? They say "hardwood" - are we talking birch or some other that is stained to look like walnut?
The photo shows a wedge barrel retainer - does this have a "hooked breech" so that the barrel can be easily removed for cleaning?
Lock - standard traditional mainspring or a coil main spring? Are you satisfied with the function of the lock?
I know it has an aluminum ramrod - I can live with that. Am basically interested in your thoughts on overall quality and fit and finish. Are you satisfied with how it shoots - accuracy, etc.? Would you recommend the purchase of one?
Overall, from the photos, it at least has the pleasing visual appearance of a traditional half stock which is what I'm looking for along with decent function and accuracy. I had a .32 CVA squirrel rifle a number of years ago and while it wasn't the highest quality, it was a decent little shooter - like an idiot I sold it and now wished I hadn't. I figured that perhaps one of the Crockett Rifles would be good to cart back and forth across the country without taking up a lot of room in transport and still allow for some decent plinking.
Thanks for any info and opinions - greatly appreciated.
__________________My 10/22 sports a cheap Tasco fixed 4x I bought at KMart back in the early 80s...
If I was buying for it now, I would probably buy a Nikon M223 2-7x or something similar.
__________________
I just bought a S&W model 52-2 brand new and am having trouble finding 148gr HBWCs. Does anyone here swage them?
Tough to swage them.However, Mihec has some nose pour 148 gr HBWC molds that he did a while ago. Not sure if he has any left, but I have one of the molds, and they are amazing to cast with.
NRA Life Member
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
Author of a book on reloading
I beg to differ Duke a hollow base wadcutter would be very easy to swage. one would need a formed internal punch on a corbin or RCE setup. I could make a .357 hollow point lead bullet if I didnt point form it and all you wanted was a solid flat wadcutter point I could swage you ten or so to see if they work.
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287could you draw down a 9mm case to make .357? you would be going from 0.388 to .357, maybe draw it down .01 at a time and do this three times?
could you draw down a 9mm case to make .357? you would be going from 0.388 to .357, maybe draw it down .01 at a time and do this three times?Yes you can I do but I do it in one operation. only takes one draw.
I do too. (Make 357s from 9mm). Pic in my avatar. I anneal, then run them through a Lee 9mm factory crimp die rim first. I drilled the aluminum top stem out .375 and made a special extended punch. This gets them down to about .362Then I run them mouth up through a .357 lee push through die. Cast up cores and melt them into the jackets. Then up into a 222 Rem resizing die to form a TC type profile. A 30 cal 113gr mold works about right for the cores, finished bullets come out around 180 gr. The ones in my avatar use a 92gr core and have a 6mm air soft pellet in the end and are right around 158-160 grains.
I load these in .357 mag but they would work in 38s too. If you really want wad cutters, you could use a slightly lighter core and not form the TC, then load them up with the rim pointing forward. I'd recommend bonding the cores in that case though, so they don't move in the jackets under recoil.
Of course it's a bit more work than just casting HBWCs, but it's fun!
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287earthling those look awesome... so you are essentially drawing them down twice then point forming in the 222 resizing die...after you point form are you resizing the bullet to shooting dimensions? when I run my 40/10mm swages in the 220 Swift sizing die for point forming the dimensions change from top to bottom and i need to final size the bullet in another die i have made, but it works...
i am doing all my swaging/drawing with a Rockchucker so i need to draw down in smaller steps to keep the forces down on the press
i agree that swaging is a lot of fun, adds to casting and reloading
edit: making swaging dies and tools might be the best part of it!
Last edited by Cane_man; Today at 11:13 AM.
After point form I usually run them back through the Lee .357 sizer just in case, but they offer very little resistance. And the ones I've checked have never measured oversize.Oh, and I use a Lee Classic Cast for swaging.
Here's a pic of some 45 Colt bullets I'm working on, these I put in the Hardinge collet lathe at work and hollow pointed with a center drill, #3 I think...
Left to right:
40 S&W Empty
Expander punch I made that fits in a Lee Universal Expander Die
Expanded casing
205gr pure lead core
Bullet after core seating
Bullet after nose forming in a 243 FL sizing die
Bullet after hollow pointing on lathe
I also make bullets for my 9mm from drawn and trimmed down 380 brass.
9mm Empty, Drawn & Trimed Jacket, 67gr core, swaged bullet.
Didn't mean to hijack this thread, but the OP did ask about swaging...
And one last note. These aren't my original ideas, got it all from this fine forum.
Last edited by earthling121757; Today at 05:27 PM.
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287very nice work! it is all there in the archives for sure... right now i think most of the pistol rounds are do-able at home with a small bench top lathe and Lee dies... rifle bullets, well not so sure at this point, the brick wall is the point forming die, making a 223 6s at home? have not figured that one out yet but working on it...You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
