Oil and/or Cosmoline in wood stock

In my VZ24 build I was putting dye color back in the stock and I laid it aside along with the hand guard. The hand guard was not yet dyed. The sun had moved and began to sun the two components. When I returned I notices the hand guard was oozing oil. Thankfully, the stock was not.

I had in my earlier preparation used the Whiting formula twice to try to eliminate the cosmo/oil. It was caked in some very small crevices and there was a little bit darkness in the wood elsewhere on the guard. Nothing really apparent on the outside. I thought after the Whiting process and by the color of the guard that I had got the cosmo/oil out. The grain and grain rings are very noticeable, so much so it doesn't complement the stock. I applied the Whiting again and left the hand guard in the sun and saw the soaking effect work.

I have a feeling that the wood is so saturated it will never completely come out. I had planed to oil finish the wood with a mix of varnish at the finish stage. At first I was thinking I'd finish the stock as planned and leave the guard alone after dying. However, I guess I can proceed adding the oil finish to make the wood more water resistant.

I've noticed with another mauser I have which has the arsenal shellac, that when it heats up it get mildly sticky. And I imagine this one will do the same. Comments or recommendations please.

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First try,good or not?

Your mould looks to have been a bit cold Mike. That or the alloy or both. Get some extra heat into both and the boolits will look like they came off a lathe. Right one looks much better.

Cheers from New Zealand

Jeff.

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013LocationWestland, New ZealandPosts5

Cheers Jeff,I did preheat,but unsure of actual temp.Will bring home a laser temperature gun from work and see how hot it is.I think 700c is about right isnt it?

Change the C to an F and you could be in the right place. 700c is about 1300F a bit ion the hot side. i like a warm mold and a cool pot for my casting. I do not have a thermometer but once the pot has melted and fuxed i turn it down to 5 (lee 10 pound bottom pour) follow all the standard instructions Clean the mold well with dawn and hot water. Run some rubbing alchol thru it to insure all the oil is out. Heat the mold on a hotplate or set it on the top of the pot while the lead is melting. in my limited experiance the mold temperature is critical to getting sharp well filled out projectiles.
Keep at it it comes together with practice

Why Johnny Ringo you look like someone just walked over your grave.

I think you can get by with less lubricant that what you've got on the boolit on the far right. If you're smearing it on by hand, you might not need it on the nose and if you're tumbling them you can probably use a thinned lube and a much lighter coating.

For those I do tumble lube, I thin with mineral spirits (50/50 seems right) and aim for a light tan coating with no clumps and glops. A little accumulation in the lube grooves never seem to hurt. My final step is to dust the dried boolits with Motor Mica. Takes away the tackiness and leaves a right purty pewter-looking boolit.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Boolit Master Join DateApr 2005LocationKansas US of APosts831

If any of my boolits don't look exactly like the inside of the mold they are a cull. No matter what the range.
The very first time I ever cast a boolit a friend of mine was here. He said he had done a lot of casting years ago. He tried to explain to me what he thought he knew. Said you can't get lead to come out of the mold perfect like the inside of the mold. Long story short he was wrong. His casting experiance btw was fishing weights with who knows what.
I have enough variables in my shooting with out trying to get a buggered boolit to make me happy.
How are you seating and crimping your checks?
Jeff

It is a hard way to go with a soup ladle. Get some kind of cast iron pot if you use a stove and a Lyman or RCBS ladle. Get the mold hot to start, I heat mine to 500* F in a little oven on a hot plate. Dipping the end of the mold in the lead will help.
The mold has to be hot enough for lead to flow and fill before the lead starts to harden. You can heat the mold with a propane torch by playing the flame all over, don't hold it in one spot.

NZ44,

I'm not sure how far away from Christchurch is from Westland but you should try to link with JeffinNZ offline for some first-hand training. Looks like a Padawan moment is coming. You have found the right forum. We have casters from the US, Aus and NZ and several other countries on this group. We ALL are willing to help you out with advice and to lead you down the galena sparkled path to perfect boolits.

Brue

I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Rifle stock for sale

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2007Posts4

I have a Remington Model 700 BDL Short action Synthentic black stock for sale. I am asking $30 plus shipping. This is a remington stock not an aftermarket. If interested contact me at pmsnelson@verizon.net or call me at 814-6344-8410. Thanks, Rick

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationTom, in Gloucester, VAPosts842

Hi Rick,

We have a for-sale forum here, and it's very active. You should try selling it there.

Take care, Tom

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2007Posts4

Tom, where is the for-sale forum located at as I didn't see it listed when I posted this stock? Thanks, Rick

Castbullet; look towards bottom, swapping and selling. You have the required time served, just need to make 21 more posts to be able to list, keep posting you'll be there in no time.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationTom, in Gloucester, VAPosts842You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
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What model is this?

It's a S&W, but I don't know which one.

I must say, as revolvers go in this country, it's a stonking good price.

It also happens to be exactly the amount of money I don't have, but it doesn't hurt to know your market, in case the latter changes, but the former doesn't!!

Used S&W .357 4" for sale!!

(OMG!! I am seriously becoming very obsessed with revolvers!! They are sooooo cool!! )

__________________
You cannot wake someone who is pretending to sleep. Stop pretending. Wake up. Doubt: ...it's the only thing I'm sure of...-Marsupials: Nature's idea of Concealed-Carry-

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"Mainstream" firearm owners

I don't think the stereotype, pro or against, bespeaks to any man's character. They usually don't in my experience. I fit the mold perfectly. I DO look just like the guys from Duck Dynasty. To say that since anti gunners portray that as bad, and that we should be offended to me is kinda sad. My age, weight, and political views don't say anything of the man I am.

Since you asked I have very little formal education(as I'm sure the majority of my posts reflect). I barely scraped by high school, because I was too busy thinking a major division one football scout was gonna pick me up, (2A highschool), yeah right! I served in the military, in the infantry...I'm sorta proud of that. If it makes me stereotypical in anyway that's alright with me.

I hunt, though I can't say I'm particularly good at it. I wear hunting cammo everyday, because I work on a horse farm by myself, and I like it, so why wouldn't I? I have a huge beard, and often say, " ya'll take care now," to a solitary person. You seldom see me not chewing tobacco, and I drive a lifted 85 Ford, with mudders,and a 460 that guzzles about seven mpg. I also live in a town with a population of 1000 people.

So yeah, I'd say I fit it just fine. On the other hand, I would stop for any person regardless of race, political views, or appearance who needs a lift. I haven't ever met a person, I didn't call sir or mam. I think every person has some value, and their words, however misplaced and misguided, or should I say misaligned with my opinions(who am I to say misguided) are I'll still listen to, and respect as their own. I don't loan money I give it. I try to always practice humility. And last but not least I have a moral compass I have rarely let down.

If you're offended to be lumped in with guys like me, hey that's okay. I don't mind. I can see my flaws, and see under an educated ,scrutinized view that it might be potentially embarrassing.I thought about it genuinely and if the shoe was on the other foot, I wouldn't care. I just don't really think that much about how people perceive me. But hey, you know where you stand with a guy like me. I am self aware, and I don't ever try to be anything I'm not. Normalcy depends on where you are, and us " camo wearing mountain men" are kinda "normal" around here.So believe it or not, it might not be so bad to get stereotyped along with me every once in awhile. Heck, it might be fun, and I'd probably buy you a beer along the way.

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Bulgarian makarov shooting high

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Working up a powder load from scratch.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

In addition to casting my own, there are LOTS of places in this town to buy cast bullets of all popular calibers. Here is the problem. I can cast/buy all the cast bullets I need. Powder is a different story. The only powders in ANY local stores are the lesser known, lesser used powders. Lots of shotgun powders, NO pistol powders.

I have all the powder I need right now, but there is no load data for some of my powders and certain cast boolits. Here's what I have come up with. Your input is anxiously sought and if this is a stupid idea, just say so.

Let's say I want to load some 110Gr flat nose hard cast in 38 special cases. There is no load data for Titegroup and that cast boolit. Not in print, not online (if there is I can't find it).

Here is my method. Look at other Titegroup load levels for other similar weight bullets in 38 special loads. This gives me some ballpark lo/hi potential loads for 38 special Titegroup in similar (close) cast bullet weights.

Now, I can find a load for Bullseye in 38 special for a 110gr flat nose hard cast bullet, but I do not have any Bullseye and cannot find any. Here is where the science part comes in.

Step 1 - write down the Bullseye load for that cartridge and bullet.

Step 2 - find another 38 special load for a similar weight bullet (say up to 130 grains) that lists loads for Bullseye AND Titegroup. As an example, using made up numbers, lets say the minimum loads are Bullseye 3.8 grains and Titegroup 3.6 grains. There is also a 2 grain difference in the maximum loads for the same two powders.

Step 3 - do the same for several more Bullseye/Titegroup loads just to be sure that the 2 grain difference isn't an outlier.

Step 4 - take the MINIMUM Bullseye load for the 110gr lead bullet (from step one), subtract 2 grains to get the Titegroup equivalent. Check the calculated starting load and check to be sure that it is within the hi/lo range for other Titegroup loads in a 38 special round with a similar weight bullet.

Step 5 - Load up 5 rounds placing the calculated load in the center round and then go 2 grains up and 2 grains down for 5 rounds. Take to the range. Load ONE round at a time and fire it. Check the target. If there is no hole in the target then check the pistol for a squib. Document recoil, accuracy, etc. and fire the other 4 rounds and record their results.

Step 6 - Take the best performing load and use it to work up an accurate safe load.

Comments? Is there an easier and/or safer way?

That is exactly how I do it. Have fun and let sanity and common sense be your guide. A powder burn chart is pretty handy too!

"Bullseye 3.8 grains and Titegroup 3.6 grains. There is also a 2 grain difference"

I think that you ment to use 0.2 grains difference, not 2 grain difference.
Correct me if I am wrong.

Lafaun

Don't blame me, I voted for the American, again!

or you could just use 4.3 to 4.8 grs like the book I have here shows.
it's a 110gr jaxketed load so you might wanna reduce it a tick.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

"Lots of shotgun powders, no pistol powders".

Shotgun powders ARE pistol powders. With a few exceptions all shotgun powders work quite well in pistol cartridges. Red dot, 700X, Clays just to name a few.

What shotgun powder can you get? Look in your manual, you will likely see it listed for handgun.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

That is exactly how I do it. Have fun and let sanity and common sense be your guide. A powder burn chart is pretty handy too!Thanks. I have a powder burn chart and have included its info in my notes. Didn't want to complicate the example with burn rate considerations.

(Barrett's Law of Driving #1: You can get ANYWHERE in ten minutes if you go
fast enough.)

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Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

I think that you ment to use 0.2 grains difference, not 2 grain difference.
Correct me if I am wrong. LafaunNo, you are right. I was doing the post late at night after an exhausting day. When doing the actual calcs I use a calculator to avoid the types of mental errors you pointed out. Calculator - always right. My Brain Late At Night - Foggy. When doing the actual calcs I tripple check everything. A ten fold error like in my example could be the end of the pistol - or me.

(Due to revised security regulations your new password needs to contain a capital letter, a number, an emoji, 8 elements from the Periodic Table, and a plot containing a protagonist with some character development and a twisted ending. Thank you.)

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

or you could just use 4.3 to 4.8 grs like the book I have here shows.
it's a 110gr jaxketed load so you might wanna reduce it a tick.My book shows that same load for a 110Gr Hornady XTP. My initial calculations give 3.2 to 4.0 for 110Gr lead. That's why I was asking for input from wiser hands.

(Ginsberg's Restatement of the Three Laws of Thermodynamics: 1) You can't win; 2) You can't quit; 3) You can't break even.)

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

What shotgun powder can you get? Look in your manual, you will likely see it listed for handgun.My next move is to visit the gun store again (the ONE that actually has some powder) and make a list of ALL available powders. Then return home and see which ones might be listed for pistol. Thanks for the input.

("I hate people that quote themselves and think it's funny." - ME!!!)

Boolit Mold Join DateJan 2013Posts4

Carry your book/s with you. That's what I do. The one that's closest one to me has reloading books there for the customer to go through to make sure they get everything they need.

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