which powder measure ?

I have the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 and it works very well. I have never seen or used the Hornady so ..... no comment. __________________
David Bachelder
Rookie reloader, but learning fast
Trinity, Texas
I load, 9mm Luger, .40, 38 S&W, .38 Special, .357, .45ACP, .45 Colt, .243 and 30-06

View the original article here

Ruger .45 Black Powder nipples?

You should still be good with #11 primers on these. ...

Be Safe !!!

__________________
'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing.

View the original article here

Powder Burn in Chamber or Bore?

Smokeless powder doesn't really "burn." It is made up of one or two unstable chemical compounds, nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine, that decompose by deflagration with release of heat and gas when initiated. I'm not trying to be a jerk, Jim, but I don't think your definition of deflagration matches those the rest of us use. What you are describing would be more appropriately called 'detonation'. However, smokeless powders are designed to deflagrate. Detonation in a firearm usually results in unintended high speed disassembly (catastrophic failure).

Wikipedia:
"Deflagration [1] (Lat: de + flagrare, "to burn down") is a term describing subsonic combustion propagating through heat transfer; hot burning material heats the next layer of cold material and ignites it. Most "fire" found in daily life, from flames to explosions, is deflagration. Deflagration is different from detonation, which is supersonic and propagates through shock." [emphasis mine]

Farlex dictionary:
"def·la·grate:
To burn or cause to burn with great heat and intense light."
"deflagration - combustion that propagates through a gas or along the surface of an explosive at a rapid rate driven by the transfer of heat"

Merriam-Webster:
"deflagrate:
to burn rapidly with intense heat and sparks being given off"

Compare that to "detonate":
Merriam-Webster:
"detonate:
to explode with sudden violence"

Wikipedia:
Detonation involves a supersonic exothermic front accelerating through a medium that eventually drives a shock front propagating directly in front of it. Detonations are observed in both conventional solid and liquid explosives,[1] as well as in reactive gases.
...
In terms of external damage, it is important to distinguish between detonations and deflagrations where the exothermic wave is subsonic and maximum pressures are at most a quarter of those generated by the former. Processes involved in the transition between deflagration and detonation are covered thoroughly for gasses by Nettleton.
...
Unintentional detonation when deflagration is desired is a problem in some devices. In internal combustion engines it is called engine knocking and causes loss of power and excessive heating of certain components. In firearms, it may cause catastrophic and possibly lethal failure." [emphasis mine]

The fact that burn rates can be controlled by granule size, shape, and density, should be a big hint that it's deflagration, not detonation.

__________________
"Such is the strange way that man works -- first he virtually destroys a species and then does everything in his power to restore it."

View the original article here

Load Data for .307 Win and LeverEvolution Powder

In my ongoing quest with this powder, decided to bite the proverbial bullet and try it in my Marlin 336 with a .307 Win conversion. Seems everything I ran into about using this powder said it might not give any benefits, but that it will work obviously. Also, the general consensus is that the Hornady load data is extremely conservative. So I did some ladder testing with the exact components used.

90* ambient @ 72% humidity (Converted Marlin 336/20" bbl)

38gr LVR--2110fps__ES/40.6 SD/21.2 (this is close to their suggested start of 37.8)
40gr LVR--2214fps__ES/14.6 SD/10.7 (.4gr under their listed max, still a very weak load)
42gr LVR--2309fps__ES/34.0 SD/17.0 (now this started to feel like what a real .307 should)
43gr LVR--2411fps__ES/54.3 SD/27.0 (slightest bit of heavy extraction deemed this as max)

Now, you have to keep in mind and realize mine is a converted Marlin with a match chamber that really doesnt take well to any kind of full power/high pressure loads. Usually I meet it's pressure limits about 1gr shy of published max loads with most powders. Even the older factory ammo gives me sticky extraction. So, this being said.........I backed off from the 43gr load by a half grain to see the results:

42.5gr LVR--2440fps__ES/35.0 SD/18.3

As you can see, the consistancy improved as well as the velocity went up!!!

View the original article here

want to buy a black powder rifle

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

View the original article here

Pistol powder in a .308

Though I have not done it in a .308, I have done reduced loads in .30-30, .35 Remington, and .30-06 using Red Dot...

You might find this interesting...It is a reprint of the old C E Harris article titled "The Load":

http://members.shaw.ca/cronhelm/TheLoad.html

This link is where I acquired the data for loading Red Dot in my lever actions:

http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm

As for:

But if you must, here is a photo of your future. I highly doubt that picture has anything whatsoever to do with low doses of fast powder...

View the original article here

Mixed powder loads

You're asking about duplexing.

It's not for your average reloader.

Small changes to one of the powders in a duplex charge can be HUGE differences in internal ballistics.

Most duplex loads are brewed up for one specific case/primer/bullet combination for one specific firearm.

__________________
"The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza

Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

View the original article here

Lee Perfect Powder Measure problem with WSF powder

I'm new to reloading and recently bought a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I tried to use it to load .45 with Winchester WSF ball powder. I followed all the set-up directions including running three hoppers of powder thru the measure. I also have it mounted firmly on my bench, and I use exactly the same throw technique on every throw.

Unfortunately, I cannot get a consistent load from the measure. It might run five loads consistently, then jump as much as half a grain up or down. And over the course of 100 throws, the variation has gotten as high as 1 grain.

I also made a baffle for the hopper, but this didn't have much effect.

I'm weighing each load on a Hornady GS-1500 digital scale, and checking to make sure the scale is zeroed between every weighing.

I know that many people find the Lee Perfect Powder Measure very accurate and trustworthy, but I know that some powders meter better than others. So I'm wondering if the problem is the WSF powder.

__________________
NRA Member. Proud to own: Kahr CM9 -- Springfield XD 45 -- Ruger 10/22 Takedown -- 1925 Mosin Nagant 91/30 -- 1944 Mosin Nagant M44 -- Kel Tec Sub 2000 (9mm) -- Western Field EMN 176 bolt-action 20 gauge

View the original article here

Caliber specific powder funnel?

Saturn funnels. You can put on top of case and it will not tip the case over. Fits very nice over case mouth. No more leaked powder.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/480995/satern-powder-funnel-22-caliber-aluminum-and-brass

View the original article here

old powder

I just reloaded a lot of pistol rounds with some Bullseye & Unique in the old, round silver & orange cardboard containers. It looked fine but had a faint smell of mothballs from where it had been stored in a closet for decades. I loaded a few rouds with each to check if the "naphthalene" (the stinky ingredient in mothballs) had done anything. It hadnt so I loaded the whole lot up & it shot perfectly well, it didn't even stink of burning mothballs!

Storage conditions is going to be key here though. Stored in a closet the mothball smell had permiated the cardboard, so will humidity & so on. Try just a few & if they work go for it.

__________________
Allan Quatermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”?

Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

View the original article here

Working up a powder load from scratch.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

In addition to casting my own, there are LOTS of places in this town to buy cast bullets of all popular calibers. Here is the problem. I can cast/buy all the cast bullets I need. Powder is a different story. The only powders in ANY local stores are the lesser known, lesser used powders. Lots of shotgun powders, NO pistol powders.

I have all the powder I need right now, but there is no load data for some of my powders and certain cast boolits. Here's what I have come up with. Your input is anxiously sought and if this is a stupid idea, just say so.

Let's say I want to load some 110Gr flat nose hard cast in 38 special cases. There is no load data for Titegroup and that cast boolit. Not in print, not online (if there is I can't find it).

Here is my method. Look at other Titegroup load levels for other similar weight bullets in 38 special loads. This gives me some ballpark lo/hi potential loads for 38 special Titegroup in similar (close) cast bullet weights.

Now, I can find a load for Bullseye in 38 special for a 110gr flat nose hard cast bullet, but I do not have any Bullseye and cannot find any. Here is where the science part comes in.

Step 1 - write down the Bullseye load for that cartridge and bullet.

Step 2 - find another 38 special load for a similar weight bullet (say up to 130 grains) that lists loads for Bullseye AND Titegroup. As an example, using made up numbers, lets say the minimum loads are Bullseye 3.8 grains and Titegroup 3.6 grains. There is also a 2 grain difference in the maximum loads for the same two powders.

Step 3 - do the same for several more Bullseye/Titegroup loads just to be sure that the 2 grain difference isn't an outlier.

Step 4 - take the MINIMUM Bullseye load for the 110gr lead bullet (from step one), subtract 2 grains to get the Titegroup equivalent. Check the calculated starting load and check to be sure that it is within the hi/lo range for other Titegroup loads in a 38 special round with a similar weight bullet.

Step 5 - Load up 5 rounds placing the calculated load in the center round and then go 2 grains up and 2 grains down for 5 rounds. Take to the range. Load ONE round at a time and fire it. Check the target. If there is no hole in the target then check the pistol for a squib. Document recoil, accuracy, etc. and fire the other 4 rounds and record their results.

Step 6 - Take the best performing load and use it to work up an accurate safe load.

Comments? Is there an easier and/or safer way?

That is exactly how I do it. Have fun and let sanity and common sense be your guide. A powder burn chart is pretty handy too!

"Bullseye 3.8 grains and Titegroup 3.6 grains. There is also a 2 grain difference"

I think that you ment to use 0.2 grains difference, not 2 grain difference.
Correct me if I am wrong.

Lafaun

Don't blame me, I voted for the American, again!

or you could just use 4.3 to 4.8 grs like the book I have here shows.
it's a 110gr jaxketed load so you might wanna reduce it a tick.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

"Lots of shotgun powders, no pistol powders".

Shotgun powders ARE pistol powders. With a few exceptions all shotgun powders work quite well in pistol cartridges. Red dot, 700X, Clays just to name a few.

What shotgun powder can you get? Look in your manual, you will likely see it listed for handgun.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

That is exactly how I do it. Have fun and let sanity and common sense be your guide. A powder burn chart is pretty handy too!Thanks. I have a powder burn chart and have included its info in my notes. Didn't want to complicate the example with burn rate considerations.

(Barrett's Law of Driving #1: You can get ANYWHERE in ten minutes if you go
fast enough.)

Last edited by BoolitChaser; Today at 06:58 AM.

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

I think that you ment to use 0.2 grains difference, not 2 grain difference.
Correct me if I am wrong. LafaunNo, you are right. I was doing the post late at night after an exhausting day. When doing the actual calcs I use a calculator to avoid the types of mental errors you pointed out. Calculator - always right. My Brain Late At Night - Foggy. When doing the actual calcs I tripple check everything. A ten fold error like in my example could be the end of the pistol - or me.

(Due to revised security regulations your new password needs to contain a capital letter, a number, an emoji, 8 elements from the Periodic Table, and a plot containing a protagonist with some character development and a twisted ending. Thank you.)

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

or you could just use 4.3 to 4.8 grs like the book I have here shows.
it's a 110gr jaxketed load so you might wanna reduce it a tick.My book shows that same load for a 110Gr Hornady XTP. My initial calculations give 3.2 to 4.0 for 110Gr lead. That's why I was asking for input from wiser hands.

(Ginsberg's Restatement of the Three Laws of Thermodynamics: 1) You can't win; 2) You can't quit; 3) You can't break even.)

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2013LocationSLC, UtahPosts8

What shotgun powder can you get? Look in your manual, you will likely see it listed for handgun.My next move is to visit the gun store again (the ONE that actually has some powder) and make a list of ALL available powders. Then return home and see which ones might be listed for pistol. Thanks for the input.

("I hate people that quote themselves and think it's funny." - ME!!!)

Boolit Mold Join DateJan 2013Posts4

Carry your book/s with you. That's what I do. The one that's closest one to me has reloading books there for the customer to go through to make sure they get everything they need.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Recommend a powder please..

safety, and ease, and such.... In no particular order (except the best first):

-Vihtavuori 3N37

-Alliant Power Pistol (this is probably the best single choice for 9x19)

-Winchester WAP (discontinued; available from Ramshot as 'Silhouette')

-AA5

-HS6

-others

My reccomendation is Power Pistol (maybe more accurate) or Silhouette (lower flash signature).

View the original article here

What's your pet powder

For almost all chores handgun, my go to powder is WW 231. I've been using it since the early 1980s, and don't see any reason or need to try to find something else for the vast majority of my handloading duties.

For heavier loads in .357 and .41, my primary powder is WW 296.

I do, however, have a bunch of AA 7 left over from when I was loading 10mm, and I'm finding it also to be a very nice powder in .357 and .41.

For light loads in my older handguns, and exclusively in my .44 Special, I use Trail Boss.

Finally, for my .45 Long Colt, I been using primarily Universal Clays. It seems to have a lot to recommend it.

For rifle, .243, .300 Savage, and .30-06, I use IMR 4064. But, I've not loaded or shot much rifle in the past 20 years.

For 12-gauge range loads, Red Dot.

__________________
"The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza

Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

View the original article here

Powder shortage

Location: If you have to ask...I'd take a look at the Hodgdon Powder site, they make WW powders as well. Interactive so you can search for the cartridges and components you want to use. Very useful site but a word of warning: when they say "MAX" they really mean it. As always, start low and work up. __________________
Life Member NRA, TSRA
Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it. -Woodrow F. Call Lonesome Dove
My favorite recipes start out with a handful of used wheelweights.

View the original article here

Lubes and Powder Deterioration

Hello All,

Great Site!!! I've learned a lot lurking around here!!!

I have searched some on this but couldn't find anything so forgive me if I'm missing something.

I have just started casting boolits and have just made my own boolit lube...my question is this: No matter what process you use to lube your boolits, chances are that you will get some lube in your case with your powder. Does this break down (deteriorate) the powder over time?

I have always made sure that my powder and primers were kept well away from any petroleum products...just makes me wonder a little as most bullet lubes have some sort of petroleum product, oil or grease as an ingredient. Petroleum Jelly for example.

Thanks,

Kenny <>(

View the original article here

Hunting with .45 colt black powder loads

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts4

My question about BP .45 colt is,is this enough for hunting deer? I hunt with a Blackhawk now and use hot loads that I add a bit of red paint to so I don't feed them to my colt repro's. It would be great to have one load that will work in both the BH and the colts. The load I am looking at using is a Lyman 452-664 lubed with Emmerits, cast from 20 to 1 in a Starline case primed with a federal 150. I dropped 40 grains of KIK 3F in a volume measure and got a average weight of 37.2 grs. This is giving me about 1/16 of an inch compression on my powder. At this point I am loading up 50 for range testing just to see how they shoot. I hunt in heavy cover and a 7 to 10 yard shot is about all I get here in the Pennsylvania thorn rose paradise I call SGL 91. Any advice from you experienced smokewagon hunters would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Holeinhide.

a 250 at @ 900 fps with a flat point and semi-soft alloy.
within 25 yds distance.
i'd say you have no problem.
the original 45 colt with a 250 [and approx. 40 grs black powder] at that same velocity was specced to take down a horse.
the 664 has a lot more meplat than the original 45 colt boolit.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I believe it was in "Sixguns" that Elmer Keith told of a cowboy shooting a grizzly through the head with a 45 Colt loaded with black powder that easily killed the bear . I would think it would take deer sized game as well.

BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

A BP load is hotter than my old hunting load. I'm working on a new SP hunting load for my Ruger but it's not much hotter than a BP load. I've toyed with the idea of a BP hunting load myself, have no doubt it will do the job.

Life Member NRA, TSRA
Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it. -Woodrow F. Call Lonesome Dove
Some of my favorite recipes start out with a handful of used wheelweights.

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2012Posts15

37 grains of KIK 3f under a 250 grain bullet is plenty for deer. A rancher friend of mine in Wyoming shot a rank Angus bull between the eyes with his 45LC using the same load and dropped the bull on the spot from a distance of six yards. The meat processor called and wanted to know what the bull had been shot with. He found the bullet in the neck just in front of the shoulders. That load has more horsepower than you might think.

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts4

That's great information, I got so tired of the you need a hand cannon to hunt deer story that I began to wonder how we ever survived the old days. When I started to research BP loading I found that all the years of not using my SAA's (they just feel better and I shoot better with them) may have been a waste. As a long time smokeless loader filling the case and squashing the powder seemed counterintuitive. I cant wait to get to the range to test them out, I plan to start them in the BH and move through the SAA repro's and see what happens.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Alliant Powder Power Pro 300-MP

Do to the recent shortage of handloading components, I was unable to purchace H110 powder for my upcoming 44 magnum loads. The only thing I could find was Alliant Powder's Power Pro 300-Mp. Its a magnum handgun spherical powder that the attendant said would work well for the 44 mag.

What do you all think?

Alliant Powder - Power Pro 300-MP

Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide

View the original article here

50/50 for cast boolits using smokeless powder?

I have a bunch of 50/50 lube(beeswax and crisco) that I made up for ctgs when I was shooting black powder loads in my '61 ctg. convert Colt in 38spl and my Sharps carbine in 45/70 loaded with black powder. My question is will this stuff work well enough for cast lead boolits in 9x18mm Mak or should I stick with Alox? Thanks in advance.

"Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!"

NO ONE has used or knows if you can use 50/50 Beeswax/Crisco lube on smokeless powder handgun rounds like the 9x18mm? Wow! I thought ya'll knew everything around here, LOL.

"Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!"

frank - I don't really know if anybody uses the Crisco mix with the BW. I kind of think not, because Crisco is rumored to "go bad" after a while ?? Stink ?? So - guys probably don't use it on purpose for smokeless. Just my take. Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Ahh, ok, guess that might make sense. I got the 50/50 recipe off of a black powder forum that I use to hand out on and it works great for black powder ctgs., just wonder if it'd be stout enough to work with smokeless powder bullets. Also, is there any way to unmix the beeswax from the crisco? I could maybe separate it and use the beeswax with something else to make up some lube if?

"Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!"

Frank: I thought someone else might respond to the "unmix" question and I forgot about it until tonight. I'm no chemist or knowledgeable boolet lube person, but I think unmixing alox and crisco is sort of like unshooting a boolet.

I make my own NRA 50/50 from Alox 350, microcrystalline wax and beeswax. If I didn't already have the Alox 350, I would just buy lube from LsStuff. If your time is worth more than a couple of dollars per hour, it is cheaper to buy.

the problem with unmixing them is they both go to the same place.
you could try boiling them in water until the lube melts, and see if they separate and reform in different layers.

don't use the wifes new pot or one she likes.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I am pretty sure I would just load up 50 and go have a range consultation with Dr. Gunn before I do anything....then:

If it fails it will be due to the viscosity of the lube not the components used to make it. If it leaves you less than happy......simply incrementally add small amounts of paraffin to it and try again....I bet you go woohoo by the second or third try. The paraffin will help to encapsulate the natural parts with petro parts...you will find happiness simply adding a bit of paraffin......I will bet on it in fact.

"Happiness is a target rich environment"

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Have a Handi 45/70 and Dardas 350 grain AA 2015 powder

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts1

Just needing idea on a good powder load for this combo. I got 2015 because there was not much else available and I am having issues finding load recommendations for the 350 grain cast bullets. I found one that recommended 45-51 gr, but the lower amount seamed to leave a lot of powder in the barrel. I just don't want to lead up the barrel with the higher charge. I also use the Lee dippers. The higher charge had a nice thump to it, slightly more than the Hornady 325 gr.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Powder Cost

About 143.00 American in late 2010. Last I recall in early 2012 >153.00. Right now I have no idea?__"I guess it's what ever the market will bare."__

I suspect the next time it's plentiful a (8 pounder) 170 or 180.00 there about's could be its new selling price.

View the original article here