Remington Model 58 barrel question

No it will not. Totally different barrel ring. A barrel can be made from an 870 barrel, all that needs to be done is to drill two gas ports. I would strongly advise getting someone who knows what they are doing to handle it. If you have the tooling and some skills, and an existing barrel to use as a guide for port sizes and angles, it isn't difficult.

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Model 29-3 Manual

Thanks Big Al.

I took a look and the manual is rather generic for 'Revolvers Modern Style".

I would have thought that there would be specific manuals for each model. If I am wrong, it would not be the first time!

I take it, as I believe my gun was made after 1980, it can be considered a Modern Style?

Again, thanks for the quick response.

Joe

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Which Dash Number Smith & Wesson Model 29 To Look For?

Pinned and recessed cylinders are highly desirable. Model 29s or 29-2s
Back in the early 80s and before they came with a beautiful mahogany box.

IMHO, The older N frame Smiths were absolutely the finest double action revolvers in the world. Quality, fit, and finish is exceptional.
Consider the hand fitting of the past vs todays CNC technology.

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Winchester Model 70 or Tikka T3 Lite Rifle ?

Yesterday, 01:58 PM One of the hardest kicking rilfes I've ever shot was on of those feather weight model 70, 270's. Trust me, I have some big bore rifles, 300mag and 338 mag, and neither of those ever put a hurting on me like that Winchester did, and I'm not recoil shy or sensitive.

I have a pre-64 270 I haven't shot in 40 years, but if I was going to buy an new one, it would probably be the Tikka. That's strickly based on the way the two I have shoot. A couple of years ago I bought a T3 Lite 243 for my granddaughter, but she didn't like it's recoil. That one was so flipping accurate, I was wanting a 22-250 and didn't want to wait a year to get one built so I figured I'd try one in the Tikka Varmint. It to is amazingly accurate. Don't know about other's experience with them but the two I have are two of the best shooting factory rifles I've ever shot. Now, be prepared to have it rock your world a little bit, because I'm sure at just over six pounds, it's gonna let you know you've shot it. They do have a lot of plastic but they are solid rifles where it counts, and they do shoot.

Understand, when I'm shooting the Tikka's, it's with loads I have well massaged for them. I don't shoot factory ammo so I can't honestly say how they shoot with factory loads.

One other thing, that black thing on the butt of the stock may look like a recoil pad, but it's not, it's hard, so you might want to consider the price of a LimbSaver pad in your pricing one out. That Winchester Feather weight I shot also had a solid butt plate.

Last edited by BKeith; Yesterday at 02:09 PM. Yesterday, 07:32 PM Well, I finally get it thanks to each of you, Fred, Mike, and BK. Being new to hunting rifles is more difficult than shooting skeet with my 12 gauge IMO.....

I can ask one of my friends if I can shoot his 270Win T3 at the range, so I get to experience the recoil. Maybe I can get to fire a Model 70 as well for comparison, if not, at least I have at least one data point with the T3 experience.

Also, another friend said he paid $250 to have his 300WMG T3 ported which supposedly reduced apparent recoil by 15 percent. He also replaced the stock recoil pad that came with the gun. Do you guys see porting as really an advantage to get off the second shot, if necessary, it it only yields a 15% reduction in recoil?

Again, I greatly appreciate each of you explaining what I need to know.

Yesterday, 11:31 PM If he is only getting a 15% reduction then there must not be very many ports or what is there is very small. Usually it's more in the 35%-50% reduction with a properly done port. There's one thing you can do which will save you money and reduce recoil for when you are at the range, there is a clamp on muzzlebrake and they are in the $80-$125 range.

Some of the clamp on's will give you 50%-60% reduction in recoil. Tikka actually makes one for the T3 Lite that will reduce the felt recoil by at least 35% and up. They are more expensive in the $175 range. There's a couple of negatives to using one of these and that is the muzzle blast will be outrageous and the people sitting any where near you at the range will not be happy. You can never go to the range and practice without ear protection or you will regret it.

It will help you stay on target better for a faster follow up shot if needed by reducing the muzzle flip. If you shoot it during the twilight period it will be brighter than normal and could blind you temporarily from the flash. I would use it at the range and sit to one end alone if possible and for me personally I would take it off for hunting situations.

Here's a few that make them, Tikka T3 HSS Clamp on Brake, Grizzly Gunworks, Coretac Solutions, Badger Ordinance, and Kahntrol.

Here's one more thing where recoil with the 12ga is concerned, it's actually much more than a 270 Win overall and in some cases much, much more. The numbers in parentheses are the weight of load in ounces and the muzzle velocity, then the numbers to the far right are the recoil in ft lb numbers. You can see that the 3 inch shells are about 2 1/2 times what a 270 Win would be with a 130gr or 140gr bullet.

12 gauge, 2.75" (1 1/8 at 1200) 7.5 23.0
12 gauge, 2.75" (1 1/4 at 1330) 7.5 32.0
12 gauge, 2.75" (1 1/2 at 1260) 7.5 45.0
12 gauge, 3" (1 5/8 at 1280) 7.5 52.0
12 gauge, 3" (1 7/8 at 1210) 8.75 54.0

Last edited by fred243; Yesterday at 11:47 PM. Today, 12:43 AM Location: Springfield, South CarolinaI have a good friend who is a gunsmith and I noticed he had put a Smith Enterprises muzzle brake on his rifle and he said recoil is severely reduced with it. Might be something to consider.

Then again you could add weight to a Tikka.

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Picked up S&W Model 681 from layaway

Picked up my Model 681-1 today from the LGS where I had it on layaway.

It was re-imported to the US by Century International, and was a police gun in supposedly either Canada or France. The gun is in great shape with only a few minor scuffs, and is mechanically excellent.

This gun, like a few other 681s I've read about was accidentally stamped "686" with the number 1 stamped over the last numeral.

I cleaned the gun up and gave it a light polishing with Flitz. The stocks are a set I bought from an eBay seller in Thailand. They have a S&W medallion on the right side.

Don't know how it shoots because I just brought it home.

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Model 94 30/30 never fired

Look online for people selling similar Winchesters...People DO collect them, and you could probably buy a good but not "collectable" 94 with what you get for it and still have a nice amount left over...(I recently bought a post 64 .30-30 M 94 with some wear from use for under $300 as a shooter.)

Works just fine.

I would not shoot it for sure...buy another that you can use.

Check prices on some of these...

http://www.gunsinternational.com/Winchester-Commemorative-Firearms.cfm?cat_id=122

Mark

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savage model 42?

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Winchester post 64 Model 70 experts - action screw spacing

Quick and probably dumb question on post-64 action screw spacing -

I picked up a MINT Model 70 Ranger but want to replace the bland stock.

I've seen the action screw spacing listed on different stock maker's sites as both 7 5/8 and 7 9/16 apart. My measurement comes out to 7 9/16.

Is this truly a difference that exists, or are some stock suppliers simply using a "close" estimate? This is a blind mag model, not one with a floorplate.

Thanks!

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Remington model 14 1/2

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Old REDDING Model 16 shotshell press

Hi

I recently bought an old green Redding #16 press amongst a few other reloading items.

Having used a little Kroil & some elbow grease I have managed to get things moving again, as the two main uprights on the unit were solid with old caked on grease.

I'm now on the hunt to add to it, as a few items are missing.

This is the model of press with the ROUND charge bar - so I need some of the powder bushings...(the flat top/base ones will NOT fit - must be CURVED)

Only has the powder bottle, so I need a shot bottle

No instruction manual - so even a scan of one would be a great help

Only has the 12-ga dies - so ANY spare dies or parts would be most welcome

Please PM me if you can help with any of the above

So far I am very impressed with the overall design of the Model 16, esp. the supported chamber/die system used. Pity they stopped production of them as they seem to have a few unique design features...

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smith and wesson 686 model - someone's post on net

"why dont 1 of those make your 686 model 357's correctly... there coming out of your factory with barrel alighnments off badd....you have customers that stand behind you and keep the 686 because they love it, and DEAL with it....this is bs...if these guns are all running through someones hands...thats right there shows they dont pay attention..on the phone you at smith act like us personal gun owners dont deserve a straight and true tool...whats going on with you guys? are you going? broke? lol"

how much truth is in this post?

I couldn't tell you.

Between the grammatical errors, lack of punctuation and the total lack of one complete sentence; it doesn't make any sense. Nor does your question.

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Restoring a Remington Model 11 on a budget

You most likely will never get the metal looking good by hand. A bench mounted buffer and a number of different compounds will be required to prep it for any kind of bluing. Once the metal is prepped, you can cold blue it, there are a couple of the newer ones that will look ok, but will not give you what you are really going to be looking for after all the work getting the metal ready. Deep pits you will have to live with, try taking those out and you could make a dangerous gun.

Anything you spend on it in the way of a professional blue, Parkerizing or Ceracoat is going to cost way more than the gun itself would ever be worth.

I know they make a Ceracoat that can be applied cold, but again, the stuff is kind of expensive. I also think the make a Parkerizing that you can do yourself, again, not sure about the cost. Cold blue you can buy for just a few dollars.

Find a parts store than sells battery acid and get about a gallon, make you a two small, long wooden trays that will hold the barrel and action, line the trays with a sheet of plastic so it's water tight. Pour the battery acid in one an put some water with baking soda in the other. Dip the parts in it for battery acid for several minutes and then in the water/soda. Rinse with warm water. It will take all the old blue and lot of the rust and other crap off. If you are not ready to apply your finish, you will need to spray them with oil/WD40 or something to prevent rust. They will start to rust almost immediately. Buff the parts or rub with 0000 steel wool to get the dull finish off if you plan to cold blue

For the wood, get some Tru-oil

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Remington Model 74 Sportsman

.

Maybe.................... But, since the problem appears to be occuring with two different magazines, I'd be more inclined to take a hard look at wear in the magazine latching, allowing the magazine to drop or shift enough to cause a mis-feed.

FWIW - the M74 is identical in every respect, save stock material & metal polish, to the M-7400, as far as parts are concerned.

.

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RG Industries Model 26 .25 ACP?

So the only thing I really hear about RG guns is that they are bottom of the barrel, some of the worst guns ever made.

I heard one story (and I don't know if it's true), but as small cheaply made handguns are commonly called "Saturday Night Specials", I heard RG manufactured a .357 magnum revolver called the "saturday night special". Apparently, due to recoil, the crappy grips would actually scratch up your hands.

I really don't know anything about this company, or this gun. I see some of their guns on gunbroker, like one of those .22 short revolvers, and looking it up on youtube, they would actually throw gunpowder residue, or something, on your hands and burn you.

After a quick Wikipedia search, apparently, they are part of Umarex now. I also know (or, I think) it was the RG Model 14S that was used by John Hinckley Jr. in the attempted assassination of President Reagan.

Pertaining to the gun, I hear they have design flaws all over the place. I also heard the 26 can fire unintentionally.

I guess RG closed after losing it's insurance over several lawsuits pertaining to public safety.

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=13113

Besides that, though, I really have no information about this gun. That link kind of explains the company, though.

What do you think I should do with the thing? I don't think I can get too much money for it. Condition-wise, it's about this picture or better...

The good news is, I haven't heard of them blowing up. Actually, this is my Grandpa's. He used to carry it in his pocket, loaded. obviously, unintentional discharge wasn't an issue. He lost the magazine, though.

I was thinking of taking it off his hands

But really, I was wondering if anyone had experience with one of these? Seems like some were reliable enough and some couldn't fire a magazine without at least one issue.

Shall I just find a magazine and see how it works? I was thinking I'd go to a police gun buy-back and actually make money on the thing... What do you guys think?

Last edited by GunXpatriot; Yesterday at 07:50 PM.

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Help field stripping Star model 30 pk

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What model is this?

It's a S&W, but I don't know which one.

I must say, as revolvers go in this country, it's a stonking good price.

It also happens to be exactly the amount of money I don't have, but it doesn't hurt to know your market, in case the latter changes, but the former doesn't!!

Used S&W .357 4" for sale!!

(OMG!! I am seriously becoming very obsessed with revolvers!! They are sooooo cool!! )

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Savage Model 7 (JC Higgins 101.16) Extractor Removal

Hey fellas,
I am working on my dads old 22 due to failure to extract spent cases. The extractor hook is boogered up pretty good so I looked for parts and found them available.

I removed the left side extractor by pulling the plunger down and levering the extractor out of its pocket. (I used a pointy brass cleaning jag)

The right side is kicking my arse though. I can't seem to get any purchase on the top edge of the plunger to begin pulling it down.

Anyone have experience with this operation?

Thanks in advance for your help!

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Finally I joined the club, the model 15 club

I met a guy at my gun club the other day, shooting pistol. We got to talking and S&Ws get brought up. He states he was selling a model 15 to a guy, but the guy didn't show up and didn't call him. He pulls out this beautiful 15-4, with target hammer and he said it had a trigger job. It felt awesome, like you all say. He said that his brother actually won competitions using it (I buy the guns, not the stories). He tells me he wants $350 for it, which was a fair deal I thought, given the nice condition, target hammer, pinned barrel, etc. I tell him "pretty nice, I will have to call you back about it." I said that because I needed to do a quick check of finances because I have bought quite a few recently and also because model 15s are somewhat plentiful. He then says "if you want it, you can have it for $300" and at that point, I said "I will take it!." We met yesterday at the local gun shop (pistol transfers are mandated in PA even between private people).

They are as great as I've heard from you all. This one is a 15-4, SN 96K13XX, making it probably a 1982 gun, possible one of the last to have a pinned barrel. It feels great with this barrel length, and that style of grips in my hand. I look forward to shooting it.

It took me a while to get a model 15, and it took me a while to get a Colt 1903 32 acp, and a S&W 357 magnum and I have never owned a S&W 36. This is because when a gun is common, I either want one that is like new, or one that is a great deal, or both because I always take the odds, and think there is another one just around the corner. This model 15 fit my bill pretty well.

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Glenfield/Marlin Model 20 Problem

I received a Glenfield Model 20 Bolt Action Rifle for repair. The issue is that the bolt will not close.

After examining the mechanism, I found what appears to be the problem. The Cartridge Guide Spring is preventing the bolt from closing as the spring does not move up when the bolt is pushed forward, effectively blocking the bolt from closing.

Not having much experience with this particular firearm - and before I pull the barrel to replace this part - I was wondering if there may be other issues causing this problem (none are apparent) and if the Cartridge Guide Spring is supposed to rest in the position that it is on this rifle - all the way down toward chamber. I can lift the spring and the bolt will go forward, but not on its own.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Winchester model 1897 12gauge

Your 97 almost certainly is chambered for 2 9/16" shells, not the 2 3/4" shells that are standard today. (That's fired length, not loaded length). Short shells are available, or you can load your own cut down hulls.

I have read that if the SN is below 568841, there is a possibility that the barrel is Damascus Steel. Then you should probably either use Black powder loads or hang the gun on a wall.

As far as the Maglite goes (not a bad idea, I'll have to remember that one), if the gun is choked Full and your others have less constriction, that may be the problem. I don;t know how tight the 97s were choked, but a Full would run about 0.694" at the muzzle.

DC

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