Also, check the indentation on the primer to see if it is conical or an inwardly rounded or domed dent, and not flat like a flat-nosed firing pin would leave. If its round, and looks to be going in deep enough, then I highly suspect the ammo.
Due to the ammo shortages, I highly suspect that we will see more of this, as a manufacturing rush is ongoing.
Here's a picture:
image (75).jpg
You may be able to tell that the hammer and trigger have been "jeweled", which I could take or leave. Here's the video of the issue which should explain the problem pretty well, but I'll add more afterwards.
http://youtu.be/f6Y5P76ucro
I hope it's clear enough, and what I REALLY hope is that I didn't get taken by the guy that sold this gun to me. It's in overall excellent visual condition, it was a little carboned-up at the front of the cylinder etc but nothing out of the ordinary, just looked like someone took it shooting and didn't clean it afterwards.
So is this issue most likely due to whoever took the hammer and trigger out to polish them screwing something up, or is this a common issue with these guns? I have NEVER had a Smith revolver do that to me in ANY configuration OR caliber.
It seems to me that the "catch" happens just when the cylinder is about to rotate, but it's hung up for some reason. isn't it weird though that I can pull it into SA no problem when this happens?
Oh, it may also be helpful to know that when I took it to the range for the first time it seemed to run well, no case bulging issues or anything like you can watch folks have on YouTube. There was one FTF but I chalked that up to using old ammo.
__________________"Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway." - John Wayne
Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2013LocationBear, DelawarePosts28
I am trying to seat some 40 S & W cast bullets. I am having an issue when I do though. Some of the lead is shaving off the bullets and clinging around the cast mouth. Do I need to adjust my sizing die to bell the cast mouth more?
Thanks!
Flare the case mouth just enough to prevent lead shaving; taper crimp in a separate operation just enough to close the flaring.
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.
Boolit Buddy Join DateJun 2010LocationHouston, TXPosts68In a word, yes. It seems most reloading dies are set to open the case mouth for a J-word bullet. Those are normally sized at .400 while our cast boolets are sized to .401 or larger, so it would follow that you need more case mouth expansion. In addition, depending on your barrel the throat may not want to accpt the cast, in which case I find I have to seat the boolet a slight bit deeper. You may want to make up some dummy rounds to do a "plunk" test to get the seating right. Good luck.
Boolit Bub Join DateMay 2012Posts32Mookiie, you didn't mention the brand of dies you are using but there should be an expander die you can adjust to expand or bell the case a little more to help stop the lead shaving. You don't want to use the sizing die as an expander.Landers
Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2013LocationBear, DelawarePosts28 Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2013LocationBear, DelawarePosts28Landers - thanks - the expander die was still hooked to my powder measure and so i completely forgot it existed and since I am mocking up rounds with no powder to check function it never occurred to me. Thanks!
If you try seating any caliber lead bullet w/o a good case mouth flare, shaving will occur. The bullet should easily sit atop the flared case mouth, the flare is quite visible.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
.40 Cal pix Here:http://reloadingtips.com/pages/loading-40-sw.htm
Be sure to click on the images to expand them.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesWhere is John Galt?
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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2011Posts30
Ok, I have been reading post after post trying to get ideas of what I could try next to solve the leading issue that I have been experiencing. I could really use some help solving this as I have been struggling for some time with this.Details on my setup and materials:
-First off, I am shooting a Sig Sauer P226 Stainless Elite which has a Stainless Bar-Sto 9mm conversion barrel custom fitted.
-I slugged the bore and used a micrometer to measure it. It came out to a very consistent .357. I measured multiple times with the Mic and calipers just to make sure I hadn't misread this somehow. I am very sure this is correct.
-I am casting using straight WW alloy in the Lee 356-120-TC 6 cavity mold which seems to drop about .358-.359
-I bought a .358 sizing die for my Lyman 4500 Lubrisizer and have been sizing to this, based on the slugging result.
-I am using the Jake's Moly Ceresin lube since it seems to have a good reputation.
-I am using 3.8gr Titegroup powder which is not super fast, but not super slow. It will lock the slide back on the last round about 75% of the time.Using the above, I tried shooting 50 rounds with air cooled WW alloy and I get leading. I tried water quenched WW alloy and I still get leading. I think the sizing die is right, I think the lube should be more than adequate. I think that the powder charge is pretty middle of the road and not in the extreme one way or the other.
One more clue - the leading seems to start about in the middle of the barrel and continue through to the end. I don't seem to get leading near throat or near the beginning of the barrel.
Today after work I went and shot 50 of the water quenched bullets thinking it was going to solve the issue. I was really confused and disappointed when it didn't. What do you guys suggest? Should I go to .359? Anything else I am not thinking about?
Here are some pics of my bore.
If they'll chamber properly, try a few of the unsized .359" boolits. .002" over bore diameter may be all you need. Then there's the usual leading-issues problem solving: different lube, in your case the factory barrel, different alloy and etc. Just be sure to change only one variable at a time or you'll likely have no clue which action fixed your problem.
"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.
I also had issues with several 9MM's for quite awhile. I tried everything from harder alloy to softer alloy, sized from .356 to .359,at least 6 different powders from fast to slow ( working up ladder loads on each one ) 5 different boolit styles, to no avail. It got decent toward the end where I only got very slight leading but was still not happy with the results. I finally tried in desperation PB gaschecks from Pat Marlin and never saw leading after that. Cheating a little but it fixed my leading issues and I never looked back.
Since your leading begins midway down the bore and continues to the muzzle, two things come to mind:1. Lube failure. Try some others.
2. Barrel constriction. Not likely, but possible and easy to check for. Slug part way from each end and see if the groove diameter at the muzzle is the same as just forward of the throat. You might also be able to detect one by slugging end to end, then lubing the bore and running the slug back down the bore in the same orientation, fitting the engraved slug to the same lands. Push it from the muzzle with a rod and see if the resistance is the same down the whole length of the bore.Also, have you pulled some boolits from assembled ammo and miked them to make sure your brass is not swaging the boolits down? I'd expect leading to start closer to the throat if that were the case, but it's something to check out when setting up for 9mm anyways.
Boolit Bub Join DateSep 2012Posts31Titegroup is my go to powder. It does seem to burn a littlewarm and some of your problem might be there. Hp38 seems to do better but with 40+ pounds of titegroup i am continuing to use it. My glock barrel and aftermarket wolf barrel both micout at .355. I size .357 which really helps in the glock factory barrel. I load 3.6 titegroup with the lee tc and load a short OAL never had a problem with slide lock.
Actually with the tc the begining of the cone is right at the case mouth.Another thing that has helped me was changing my lube recipe I "diluted" the mix with a little more vaseline and added some carnuba wax from car wax. A softer lube seems to work better for me than a harder lube, in your case you are getting leading in the last half of the barrel.
This suggests that you are running out of lube. I like a softer lube that flows more easily. With a real long 9mm barrel it is wholly innapropriate but in my glock 34 with thraded barrel 6.02" (or thereabouts) it helped a great deal.
Your alloy may be a bit hard. I like( for low velocity plinking) 50/50 dead soft/COWW +2% tin for fill out - water quenched.
The last thing is your expanding die. This is a common problem, seat one of your bullets after your normal case flare then pull it. Measure it. Dont be suprised if you end up with a boolit thats.354-.355.
for the lee expander in 9mm you can use a 38 sw expander to keep from swaging the boolit in the case.Thats the best I can do on no sleep.
Hope something there helps
98% probability you are swaging down that bullet when seating in the case.
You are not adequately expanding your cases. Depth and or diameter. Likely both.
Are you sorting cases by head stamp?
I also had issues with several 9MM's for quite awhile. I tried everything from harder alloy to softer alloy, sized from .356 to .359,at least 6 different powders from fast to slow ( working up ladder loads on each one ) 5 different boolit styles, to no avail. It got decent toward the end where I only got very slight leading but was still not happy with the results. I finally tried in desperation PB gaschecks from Pat Marlin and never saw leading after that. Cheating a little but it fixed my leading issues and I never looked back.I also used a lyman "M" die for expanding my cases with no reduction in dia after pulling seated boolit. Good Luck with your endeavor with the 9mm , I hope it goes better than mine did.
Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2009Posts877The case could be sizing those boolits down, but WDed lead didn't work for you either. Did you give the WDed lead time to harden up before loading the boolits?Otherwise, maybe try another lube and check for constrictions in the barrel (already mentioned). BTW, if the barrel has any moderate constriction, you will feel it when you drive the slug/boolit through.
Do you have another boolit you can try?
I like the idea of trying .359 boolit.
Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2011Posts30Wow, this is a seriously cool group. I really appreciate all of the responses and you helped me identify the things that I have not tried yet. I will make every attempt to list out the things that I am hearing, try them, and then report back to this thread until the problem is solved.The barrel I have is a conversion barrel to convert the .40 S&W Sig down to a 9mm with just a barrel change. This means that I don't have a 9mm factory barrel to compare this one against. The Bar-Sto barrels get good reviews and I don't expect that it would be a quality issue, but we'll see I suppose.
What I am going to try right away
-Try some .359 bullets - I will likely need to work on expanding the cavities to get them to drop larger
-Double check to make sure that my expander die is expanding adequately - Now that I think of this, I think that I am not expanding enough, I will fix this right away
-Pull a bullet out of a loaded case and Mic it. Share results
-Try some different lubes - I tried a softer beeswax lube with similar poor results, but I have some Lyman Moly that I can try
-Re-slug the barrel looking for barrel constrictions - the tension was fairly consistent when I did this, so I doubt I have an issue, but I will do this anyway to double check.What I will do if the above does not yield results
-Try new powders to
-Try new lead alloysLast resort
-If all else fails, use PB gas checksI thought of a couple other things that I need to provide to this thread.
-OAL of bullet
-Pics of the bullets in question
-Details of cases fired from this gun
Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2009Posts877Yes, make absolutely sure your boolits aren't being resized when being seated into the case. I would start with that one. I doubt you have a constriction in the barrel, but who knows...
looks like it's starting about where your pressure drops off.
mark the barrel where it starts.
bump the load, and see if it moves.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
Boolit Man Join DateJan 2009Posts83New barrels, are new guns for that matter, some times need breaking in.Shoot it with mild loads for 300 or 600 rounds, cleaning often. Pressures are higher in new barrels and drop down a bit as they smooth out.
Then see if you have a problem.
good luck
Add 2% tin to your COWWs and let the AC'd bullets age for 7 - 10 days before lubing, sizing or loading.Change lubes. Try the Lyman Molly but a good soft lube like Lar's NRA 50/50 or BAC will do better.
.358 sizing is fine.
Bump the load to 4.2 gr TiteGroup or switch to 4 gr Bullseye.
I shoot and have shot the same 356-120-TC (and several other 9mm moulds of 115 - 125 gr) cast of COWWs + 2% tin, sized at .356 - .358, lubed with Javelina (NRA 50/50 lube) or BAC and loaded over 4 gr Bullseye in many 9mm handguns and a few subguns with excellent accuracy and no leading. Your leading is caused by a tin deficient ternary alloy, improper lube and too low a psi.
Larry Gibson
Boolit Master Join DateMay 2012LocationRepublic of Texas, District of Round Rock.Posts308Sounds more like a lube issue. If your lube is running out halfway down the barrel, maybe it's your bullet selection. How big is the lube groove? Only 1 groove or two?
Have you TESTED the bullet hardness and compared it to the recommended pressure for that hardness?
Griz44MagYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Here in Texas, It's the Biggest, Best and Most Important (or we just won't talk about it)
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
I've used the Lee FCD for .30-30 and .30-06 with no issue, but using the .300aac FCD, and I can spin the bullet after the crimp has been applied, no matter how much pressure I apply.The cases are Lake City, all have been annealed. The bullet I'm using is a Nosler 125gr BT, but the same issue happens when using a 311410 and 31141, after the crimp is applied, I can still spin the cb's as well.
Any ideas?
I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.
Why would you use that, it's not necessary, you need to make sure that the case neck has enough tension on the bullet at the SIZING stage, and forget the crimp.
Who's dies are you using?I've had zero neck tension issues with any formed brass to date. I've yet to anneal any brass. And have noticed that converted LC xm193 brass is annealed about halfway down the brass, when formed my LC brass appears to be annealed 300aac brass.
I support your right to keep and arm bears.
I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.
Can you over-anneal brass? Have you test against non-annealed brass. I'd start eliminating processes and figure where your loosing tension. I'd doubt it's the dies, but it could be. Maybe pull apart your dies and measure. Also, if you have .223 dies, try a resize in a .223 die before forming.
I support your right to keep and arm bears.
Measure your expander. I have some 30cal dies from RCBS that came with the expander from a 303 brit or 7.62 Russian. It should measure 0.306"-0.307" If it is wrong, call them and they will send out the right ones.
I have not had any problems with the FCD with both j-words or cast but there is a slight possibility that the die is out of spec. I would give Lee a call and discuss this issue. I forgot to add: I do use a FCD for 300blk and it can over crimp on CB's if the die is set too deep. The groove between the petals/fingers does not close all the way when set for the boolits I use and the crimp is positive.
Last edited by blikseme300; Today at 06:57 AM.
I have had the same problem, it seems to be a combo of freshly annealed brass and an overzealous neck expander, not the FCD.
You have to admit, the neck brass is pretty thin on a 300 blk.
I switched to a lyman M die for expansion, that solved the problem for the worst of it. Neck tension improved after the first firing also.
"The trouble with Socialism is, sooner or later you run out of other people's money." - Margaret ThatcherYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Secondly, Ruger has already been called and have provided a prepaid shipping label for sending my pistol in for repair and return.
After a couple of years trying to find the SR1911 in stock anywhere here in Nebraska land I was finally in the right place and at the right time and bought mine.
Took it home, cleaned it, took it to the range and WOW it was fantastic. Shot great, no jams or any other problems. Probably put 50 or so rounds through it. I was happy.
Returned to the range this weekend and went thru 2 mags and 6 rounds.
I fired a shot and all was well until I went to line up the next shot. What the hey! Uh. Where is my front sight? As you can imagine I was a bit confused as there had been a front sight there on the previous shot. Examination reveled that the front sight had sheared off pretty much even with the top of the slide. The lower portion was still in the sight groove.
After returning home I did a brief search on the web and found that this is not as uncommon as I thought. At least one video and numerous threads on other forums. Perhaps I had missed a tread here on TFL but I have not found one.
I called Ruger this morning and as soon as I mentioned that the front sight sheared off I was told they would send me a prepaid label by email to ship it in for repair.
So, it does suck that I won’t have the gun for a bit and I have to send it in but I am pleased with Customer Service.
As near as I can gather Ruger must have received a batch of bad Novak Sights. I am not blaming anyone for the problem as problems do happen. I mainly just wanted to bring it up here as I have not seen anything from anyone else about it.
Yes I would and will buy more Ruger guns.
) You can also use that powder thru feature on a single stage press. It's designed so that, while the ram is raised all the way, you pour your powder in the top. At that moment, it is flareing, or expanding, the case mouth too. I don;t use mine, preferring (as you've done yours, I think) to just funnel the powder into the case in a batch run. I use that die only as an expander.
ON EDIT: Looking at your picture, I wonder if you did flare the case mouth, but too much!? Just expand/flare it enough so the bullet just starts, no more than that. Flare one, pull it, and check it with one of your 45 bullets. THen be carefull adjusting your seater/crimp die. If it's set to crimp too soon, it could cause your problem I think. The FC die is your friend with pistol ammo (and rifle too, for me).
__________________"If you are a reloader and you don't know Lee, you don't know Jack" - Floydster
DON'T BE SCARED?
I recently bought a .35 cal Old West hollow point mould that appears to have an "issue". The issue is that the bore riding portion mikes .355"! Now the design is very similar to Lymans 358009, and this boolit, cast from ww+1%tin, already weighs 280g w/o the gas check. The OAL is 1.143", and about half of it's length is the bore riding section, (similar to my 358009.) Both of my Rem 700 35 Whelen's and my new to me BLR in .358 Winchester sem to prefer .350
bore riders. I haven't tried to load any of the Old West boolits yet, and quite franckly, I'm a little bit afraid to because I'm sure this boolit is gonna need to be seated almost back to the primer! Do any of you have any experience with a similar situation?
It's all chicken, even the beak!
Make up a "dummy" round and try it in your chambers. My Remington 700 .350 magnum has such a long leade that I'm not sure it would matter in my rifle. It very well could prove to be a good bullet for you.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
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Need a little help here, I bought a lee 430-310 GC mold and when I bought it I also ordered some 44 cal gas checks but they are very loose. After running them through the .430 sizer they are still loose. di I order the wrong ones or is there something I don't know about here.
please help me figure this out.
Why Johnny Ringo you look like someone just walked over your grave.
Need a little help here, I bought a lee 430-310 GC mold and when I bought it I also ordered some 44 cal gas checks but they are very loose. After running them through the .430 sizer they are still loose. di I order the wrong ones or is there something I don't know about here.
please help me figure this out.The portion of the mold where the GC goes is too small. Call Lee.
What alloy are you using? Higher antimony content will increase diameter of the bullet and the gas check area. The mold temp to hot can also cause small size. Was your sizing die engaging the bullets and doing any sizing?
I am going to do some measuring tomorrow but I think they might have cast a bit small. I am using 20-1
Why Johnny Ringo you look like someone just walked over your grave.
I'd be really surprised if you got .430 in a Lee mold with 20-1.
If God didn't want man to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of MEAT!The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it's still on my list.
That boolit needs shot pretty fast. 20 to 1 will not work very good.
A GC will fit a .429 boolit so even if it cast .0005" small, the check should still crimp on.
It should not matter what alloy is used.
I am sure it is the alloy I have an older mold and the boolits are also a bit small, the .430 sizing die is barely shining up the driving bands. I am planning on using these in a .444 rifle. I will have to brew up a batch of alloy with a higher tin content. I shoot most of rifles with BP or low velocity smokeless loads so most of them do fine with the 20-1.
Why Johnny Ringo you look like someone just walked over your grave.
I am sure it is the alloy I have an older mold and the boolits are also a bit small, the .430 sizing die is barely shining up the driving bands. I am planning on using these in a .444 rifle. I will have to brew up a batch of alloy with a higher tin content. I shoot most of rifles with BP or low velocity smokeless loads so most of them do fine with the 20-1.OK, soft is good. Tin will not increase size. I still think the mold needs fixed. You can lap it yourself to get a better GC fit.
I have seen molds all over the place with GC fits.
Boolit Master Join DateApr 2005LocationIowaPosts366I'm going to take a guess on this as it sounds mirror image to my first casting with that mold. On mine I'm pretty sure I didn't get the mold or sprue plate clean enough before my first casting. In fact I know I didn't as I was in a hurry and followed Lee's instructions. What was happening for me is the bullet bases did not want to fill out 100% leaving a visible small gap between the edge of the mold and base of bullet. When I ran them thru the 430 sizer with Hornady checks a few would be loose. I had a bag of Gators and those would crimp on tight. Since then I have soaked the sprue plate and mold in my cleaner and then gave it a couple of good scrubbings of hot water and Zud with a toothbrush. I also gave it the slightest bevel of the parting line of the mold blocks to vent the base. I haven't cast with it since as I just don't need or use very many of those heavy weight wrist breakers. I really need to beagel it or lap to 433.
Seeing as I have two of these molds I will read up on the beagle process and give it a try on the old mold, If it works out I can always do it on the new style lee mold as well.
Why Johnny Ringo you look like someone just walked over your grave.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
I'm about to load up a heap of .45 ACP with a retired Detective pal who needs 1000 rnds for a class he's about to attend. I've made up a mess of Ben's Red but honestly haven't shot much/ none in pistol.How is the 'smoke factor' with Ben's Red as compared to 45/45/10 TL?
Boolit Man Join DateSep 2006Posts79
My Sp101 has leading issues and wondering if you might offer some suggestions what to try. The cylinder throats are all consistent at .357. My bore slugs at .355 , maybe closer to .354, which I consider tight. My boolit is 358156 with gas check, sized to .357. Javlin lube. Load is 6.5gr Unique.No discernible tights spots in my bore which is smooth. I tried my own poured from WW and also tried commercial boolits which where quite hard (but w/o GC). Brass is 357Mag (not 38spcl). Tried alox as well for lube.
Pretty much run of the mill load and shoots well in my other 357Mag's. I do not have .358 sizer or I would try that but having a hard time believing that would solve the problem.
The leading is heaviest right after the cone. Cone is fine. Leading is consistent even if I vary lube or boolit type. Not horrible terrible leading but much more than I am accustomed to.
Any thoughts?
unique
I believe the load is too light. Eight grains of Unique is a stout load for 158 grain bullets
my new SP101 3" barrel shoots a 358477 sized .358 just fine no leading
i used a upper mid level load of Blue Dot you might try and up your load
a little bit
kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies
Boolit Man Join DateSep 2006Posts79Thank You for suggestions, can't hurt to try...well the 8.0 grs of Unique might.Does anyone think the .355 bore is tighter than normal?
I never slugged my 2", but I am running my Lee 358-158-RF's through them sized to .358 using Magma hard lube and 4.8~ grains of WW 231 in 38 spec loads.No issues.
Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013LocationMiddle of the MittenPosts1I have the same gun, I slugged it and discovered that it is a 5 groove. That said, I couldn't get a good measurement. So I
size to the throats and have no leading. My pet practice load with 158 grain commercial cast is 4.5 gr. of Titegroup in
magnum cases.
the tight bore measurement and the leading tells me you have a tight spot under the frame.
the name ruger on the side of the gun tells me you have a tight spot under the frame.
where the leading is tells me you have a tight spot under the frame.
once you fix the tight spot under the frame going to 358 boolits should make the gun a decent shooter.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rulesthe more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
So I loaded up 20 rds to test loads good thing was no leading nor high pressure signs. Problem
was 5 shots @ 30 gr H322 shot high right as well as 28 gr H322. 5 shots @ 26 gr & 26.5 gr didnt even hit paper. This was @ 100 yards out of a savage model 16 308 win. Ths rifle shoots dead center @ 100 yards with 168 gr sp. Silly question but does this rifle need to be re-sighted in with cast boolits, or is there another reason for this happening, Thanks in advance Mike
The load was as follows:
Coal-2.625"
H322-26 gr, 26.5 gr, 28gr, & 30gr (working up load)
Lee 312-155 bullet mould
Boolits drop at-158.5-159
sized and gas checked-.311
45/45/10 lube
Remington large rifle primer
Federal once fired trim-2.003"
lee neck expander
lite crimp
alloy- ww (clip on)
water quenched
?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY)
Weeelll, lemme see here.
There could be several reasons for your results, so I will ask some questions and answer some.
1. First and foremost, did you clean ALL the copper out of the barrel? One word Jack... Elbow Grease.
2. Yes, because of velocity and shape differences, you could be grouping well, but off the paper. You need to re-zero.
3. 45/45/10 is ok for rifle loads, but other lubes may suit your rifle better, or may not. You need to try different lubes just like you try different powders and charge weights.
I came into this world kicking, screaming, and covered in someone elses blood. I plan to go out the same way.
Weeelll, lemme see here.
There could be several reasons for your results, so I will ask some questions and answer some.
1. First and foremost, did you clean ALL the copper out of the barrel? One word Jack... Elbow Grease.
2. Yes, because of velocity and shape differences, you could be grouping well, but off the paper. You need to re-zero.
3. 45/45/10 is ok for rifle loads, but other lubes may suit your rifle better, or may not. You need to try different lubes just like you try different powders and charge weights.I actually had just finished shooting jacketed bullets to test loads about 15 rds.The cast boolits grouped @ about 2" -
3" but way off my point of aim, so will re zero. I was under the impression it was
ok to shoot jacketed before lead just couldnt do it the other way around. So if I
am going to cast for this rifle no jacketed bullets down the pipe unless just
cleaned? As far as lube I am tumble lubing and read this was the go to lube 45/45/10
?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY
Some say never mix J word and cast lead in any order without a through cleaning between. Some say cast lead solders itself to copper fouling others say that it does not. Some say shot several or more j word after shoting lead to clean the lead out ,some say the lead build will cause pressure to increase .Real issue is that every bore is different, even jacket material is not all exactly the same and neither are their lead cores.
These days WW material could be most anything ,do you have ay means to test hardness and perhaps more importantly how long did you age them after casting?
NRA Endowment Member
Vet . 2nd of the 47th 9th.Inf. Viet Nam Mar. 67-68
Some say never mix J word and cast lead in any order without a through cleaning between. Some say cast lead solders itself to copper fouling others say that it does not. Some say shot several or more j word after shoting lead to clean the lead out ,some say the lead build will cause pressure to increase .Real issue is that every bore is different, even jacket material is not all exactly the same and neither are their lead cores.
These days WW material could be most anything ,do you have ay means to test hardness and perhaps more importantly how long did you age them after casting?
I do not have anything to test hardness while in ignot form I was able to scratch with thumb nail.I loaded them the following day after casting and shot them 5 days later.
?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY
Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2011Posts413I have had to resight some rifles when shooting cast.Seems that the harmonics are different with jacketed(higher pressures?)
After changing zero i was able to get some nice groups,even with the 303.
I use 2500+ lube with my cast.
I have had to resight some rifles when shooting cast.Seems that the harmonics are different with jacketed(higher pressures?)
After changing zero i was able to get some nice groups,even with the 303.
I am going to search the forum now for that lube..
I use 2500+ lube with my cast.
?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY
Yes you will probably have to rezero with most cast bullet loads, they go a lot slower.Cleaning the bore after shooting j bullets should not have been the reason for missing the target......poor zero was. Many of us switch between cast and J with no affect on accuracy and no leading. Depends on rifle's bore condition and what you expect for "accuracy".
Add 2% tin the your COWWs and let the bullets age 7-10 days before doing anything with them if AC'd and 48 hours if WQ'd.
Get the 2500+ or the NRA 50/50 formula lube. Click on "LsStuff.com" at the bottom of this page. You can pan lube with it. OR you can use LLA straight as per the Lee instructions if you want to tumble lube.
If you are sizing at .311 get a Lyman .31 M die to expand the necks for proper neck tension.
Larry Gibson
I am going to search the forum now for that lube..For 2500+ try here. Also look at BAC. http://www.lsstuff.com/You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesBoth are good lubes................Terry
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
