Mould suggestions for 45LC and 454 Casull

Came into a good deal on a used Taurus RB in 454 Casull. I have a few 45LC in Ruger and Marlin variety.

I'm looking for a mould that will allow me to use a CB with GC in all three. Any suggestions? I've been eyeing Lyman, NOE, RCBS and SAECO varieties. Looking to be in the 250-260gr neighborhood. Purpose will range from plinking with trail boss to all out hunting loads for pig and deer. Any suggestions?

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Problem mould...

As I am new to casting rifle boolits, I have had to buy some new moulds. I have two that cast 3 different boolits. A bonus for me. My latest is a Lee, in 8mm. A few days ago, I was altering some WW's, and decided to cast a few with the new mould. As it was a very cool say outside, I actually set the base of the mould in the top of the pot to get it warm. My others don't cast very well until they are hot, so I decided to do this. It is a 2 cavity mould, and out of fifty attempts, I might have gotten 10 complete boolits. It appeared that the alloy was solidifing on the sprue plate. (this computer keeps telling me I'm spelling lots of words wrong. If so, sorry 'bout that!) I stuck the sprue plate into the lead to get it hot, but, it made no difference. I've never had any problem like this with my other rifle moulds, or any of my pistol moulds, so I am at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any replies.

I sound to me like you need more heat. Increase the pot temperature . I usually start HOT until I get everything working right and then back off the temperature to a more reasonable level. Every mold has a personality of its own.

Carl

You answered your own question, mould too cold. I preheat my moulds by setting on a hot plate. I have also dipped the front corner of the mould into the melt to bring the mould up to temp. When the lead releases from the mould it is warm enough. You can also dip just the sprue plate if it is too cool.

I always pour a large sprue on top until it gets to a temp that I can easily open the plate with my thumb.

Thanks, guys. I actually did all of those, but, it still didn't work. I'll have to give it another try, now that the weather has warmed, a little. I was actually trying to get a few made so I could lap the mould. All my Lee moulds do not like to release the boolits. I read about lapping, and tried it on one mould, and it worked. Boolits drop free very easily. I didn't have a temp guage that day, but have gotten one since. But, the alloy seemed hot enough. (so did the mould when I accidently touched it. No, no gloves.) Could the holes in the sprue plate be too small? They don't look very big.....

aluminum molds like to be run at 400-435-f
a slight breeze will cool down an aluminum mold real quick.
I have a 2 cavity lee 45/70 mold and in the garage with no breeze I have to keep the mold moving along to get well filled out boolits that drop easily.
I run it on the edge of frosting.
actually through the frosting stage back to silver again then maintain that speed.
my count is 4 as in fill, count to 4, and open.
I run my 4 cavity noe mold the same way, but with less count time, it is on the verge of smearing the lead across the mold.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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Mig nozzle dip for mould Lube?

Anyone try welding nozzle dip for lubbing a lee mould.works great and no gaulding.Just a little on the top and spur plate and hinge.

If I ever run out of Bullplate it would be worth trying, I usually have a can or two around.

Flat nose ($8) and conformal ($8.50) nose punches for SAECO- or Lyman/RCBS-style luber/sizers.

Saeco-to-Lyman/RCBS style nose punch adapters ($12)

Free S&H in USA on above items

Die retention nut drivers for Lyman and RCBS lubers. Start the nut straight every time! ($22+$5 S&H, shipping free w/purchase of two nose punches)

Email keiththeperfessor@gmail.com for more info.

A better product at a lower price, its the American way.

Personal checks, MOs, and PayPal accepted.

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Anybody remember this 30-cal. GB mould from 2006?

I got this mould on a trade a while back and just got around to casting up some boolits today. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?7786-150-Grain-Plain-Base-30-cal-TL-with-one-large-lube-groove
They look fine, and I'll be loading them for my Win 94 and for my Oviedo Mauser in .308 this weekend. Plenty of starting load data around for this size boolit. My question: Has anybody shot this boolit and got good results? I have scoured the GB archives but I cannot find much info. There are posts in a couple of threads that refer to a screw-up by Lee (it's a 6-banger); that the moulds were cut to the wrong specs. Any info would be appreciated before I get too far into loading...

I picked up one of those from someone here more than a year ago. The boolits I have cast from it are .311" base band and TL bands with a .300" nose ~144gr. The few that I have shot showed promise, but were very light loads from an 03a3. I could see the boolit before it impacted the target at 55 yards. I need to try these in one of my 30-30s and my short throated .308.

Thanks for the input. The guy I got the mould from was very hot to trot in the GB; so I found it a little strange that he so easily parted with it.

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Can this mould be saved?

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2006Posts10

Last edited by chiggerbyt; Yesterday at 01:45 PM. Reason: added picture of sprue plate and screw

The overall look is the early Winchester mould, before they added the wooden handles. The sprue plate and screw is, of course, missing. They were made without vent lines and the cavity was sized so no supplemental sizing was necessary to shoot the boolit in Winchester rifles.

It looks like somebody either ordered a blank mould from Winchester and put a .45 caliber cherry a driving band and a half deep into the blocks, or they recherried a smaller caliber Winchester mould in the same manner. Generally a factory mould (even a factory special) from Winchester should have a fairly deep caliber/weight stamp on the left-hand handle, looking down from the top. I've seen a fair number of recherried examples of these moulds, and I can't recall that anybody has ever taken the trouble to grind, weld over or otherwise remove the stamp from the handle. Given the detail left of the cavity, I can't imagine the mould rusted enough to take the stamp away, so my best guess is the gunsmith-cherried blank Winchester mould.

Looks like somebody wanted a boollit for a .45 express of one sort or another. All you need is to drill and file to shape a new sprue plate, make a screw any you're in business.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2006Posts10

Hi Bent Ramrod,
I have uploaded the sprue plate and screw picture as well since your reply. Thank you for the info so far. Chig

Sure. Cast a few and see how the size comes out. You may be surprised if the
size is reasonably close to what you need.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2006Posts933

looks tapered, which isn't my favorite, but a very old mold none the less.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2006Posts10

The closest thing I see to it is the Lyman 452630 without the final taper at the base. There also appears to be some #'s (very small but evenly spaced) stamped along the edge of the left side facing up under where the left of the sprue plate would be if closed. I cannot make them out clearly or at this point just imagining as my wife see's nothing but marks of some sort.

it was quite common to mark the top of a mold block back then, lee has taken to doing it again recently.
you could easily make some wooden handles from a broom handle.
you might want to take some chalk and rub on the molds top/sides and see if anything pops out.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2006Posts10

Tried the chalk. Still couldn't make anything out under magnifying glass. Will just have to cast some, weigh them, shoot them, and go from there. The only 45 I have is 1911 so that is the test foundation. Thank you all for the replies. Chig

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I need recommendations on a Keith style mould

I'm wanting to get a 44 Keith mould. I know they are hard to get right now and need some help. Used, Lyman, RCBS, Accurate?

"Some men are mere hunters; others are turkey hunters." Archibald Rutledge

*Cohesiveness*Leadership*a common cause***

The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Mold Join DateJul 2012Posts12

I'm a Lee mould fan but my old (1982) Lyman # 429421 out shoots them all.

Accurate seems to be your best bet for instant gratification (great molds!)

I went with the NOE version 'cuz I wanted the hollowpoint option, but they just did a run - you'll have to ask when they plan to make another.

Ballisti-Cast is the inheritor of the Hensley & Gibbs line, which is where Elmer went after Lyman started monkeying with his blueprints and made him cranky. Their #1103 is therefore going to be the true ancestral heir to the original, unadulterated Keith .44. If you're worried about getting "THE" 429421, this is probably your baby.

WWJMBD?

I like my science WEIRD.

Only have 2 - 4 cavity mould in stock now
Swede Nelson

More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.

Owner and CEO/CC&BW
NOE Bullet Moulds
You can check our schedule HERE

Made in the U.S.A.
Come and see us at:
http://www.noebulletmoulds.com/

Boolit Master Join DateAug 2009Posts713

You can't go wrong with the NOE since he has it in stock. A good friend has the HP NOE version of that and it is a beauty. Casts well, measures what it should to work in about any revolver, and looks like a revolver bullet should look.

Boolit Man Join DateSep 2012Posts89

I just got one of the NOE molds and it makes great bullets. They're larger diameter than my other molds at .434". I also have RCBS, Ideal and a Saeco in .44 SWCs which cast a bit smaller than the NOE. PM me if you think you might want a 2 cav. RCBS -- I'd consider letting it go.

NOE IS by far TOP NOTCH! THEIR molds are things of beauty along with great customer service best in the business. AL is great man and puts out great products

RCBS 44-250 K is a real Keith type, excellent design, true to Elmer's intent, very
high quality mold. Highly recommended. MP has had some excellent clones of
H&G 503, also super quality and true Keith design. There are several other
.44 SWC molds from RCBS that are not Keith designs, superficially similar.

Current Lyman 421429s have moved back to flat bottomed lube groove,
good Keith design, after drifting around a lot over the years.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Staying true to the Keith design is important to me. If a used deal doesn't come to pass I'll most likely go with the NOE. Is there any difference in handles,I'm going to need a good set, the only moulds I have now are 2 cav Lee?

"Some men are mere hunters; others are turkey hunters." Archibald Rutledge

Get one of those 4-cavity 429421 NOE clones from Al !
Mine drops beautiful bullets with ease and they are priced right!

I have a 4-cavity and a single cavity HP version.

Jerry

S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

+ another for the Lyman 429421 (I think Mtgun44 got dyslexic on us?) and the RCBS 44-250-K. Both do as well for accuracy and terminal effects, if not better, than any other similar "Keith" design I've tried in my own four 44 handguns and several others.

Larry Gibson

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Old West .35 cal hollow point mould "issue"

I recently bought a .35 cal Old West hollow point mould that appears to have an "issue". The issue is that the bore riding portion mikes .355"! Now the design is very similar to Lymans 358009, and this boolit, cast from ww+1%tin, already weighs 280g w/o the gas check. The OAL is 1.143", and about half of it's length is the bore riding section, (similar to my 358009.) Both of my Rem 700 35 Whelen's and my new to me BLR in .358 Winchester sem to prefer .350
bore riders. I haven't tried to load any of the Old West boolits yet, and quite franckly, I'm a little bit afraid to because I'm sure this boolit is gonna need to be seated almost back to the primer! Do any of you have any experience with a similar situation?

It's all chicken, even the beak!

Make up a "dummy" round and try it in your chambers. My Remington 700 .350 magnum has such a long leade that I'm not sure it would matter in my rifle. It very well could prove to be a good bullet for you.

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Need opinions/advice on NOE .358 135 RF rg2 mould

Boolit Bub Join DateFeb 2013LocationAmerican by birth, Southern by the Grace of GodPosts26

may want to size a bit smaller, lube then size again, should be fine.

I think it would be a very good 38 cal mould.

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First/starter mould

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2013LocationNew Orleans LAPosts8

Hello,
I need some advice on my first mould. I'm on several GB but, while I'm waiting for these to go into production I want to start learning and casting. I will be casting for 44mag, 357mag, & 45acp. My alloy will be 100% WW. From what I have read on this forum I seems I should start with a heavier boolit like the .44 for mould heat retention.
So my question is which mould manufacter do you recommend while I'm waiting for my custom moulds? I have read so many pro's and con's about Lee, RCBS, Lyman.... I think you get my point, that's its time for me to ask the pro's!
Thank you,
Scott

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2011Posts291

I have NOE, Accurate, lyman, Lee and RCBS of many flavors. Steel is easiest to learn with IMHO. I do like aluminium too but starting out the steel is the easiest to work with.

Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!

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New Mould Pre-Use Treatment

mpkunz

Sent PM - instructions should have been in the box - sorry
Keep us posted as to how it works

Swede Nelson

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My first NOE mould

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013LocationAmerican by birth, Southern by the Grace of GodPosts18You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

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New Mihec Mould

I was looking through Miha's extra moulds that he has on hand. And I found one that was calling my name. It was the last one in stock. It was the 6.8 SPC. It is a six-banger aluminum. Anyway, I bought it and started playing with it. I also noticed that it is very much like the Lyman 280473 in shape. I also have the 280473 mould. I love six-bangers. You can make a big pile of boolits fast. I started thinking about a good super light load to shoot around the yard. I decided to try 3.5 grs. of bullseye and 4.0 grs. of bullseye. I spent an evening cleaning all the copper deposits out of my barrel. Then I dug up some brass and neck sized it and used an expander plug out of a 7mm. The expander plug was .2765. I sized the boolits at .278. At that light of a charge I decided I didn't need gas checks. I also used CCI 300 LPP because of the light charge. I put a layer of 45-45-10 on the boolits and then ran them through the sizer. Then I put another layer of lube on them. After I charged the cases I put a little tuft of polyester fiberfill in on top of the powder. I ended up seating the boolits with my fingers. Below I have included some pictures of my targets. The wind was blowing a little and I was shooting off a lawn chair not a bench. I thought the new mould did pretty good for a first try. This is cheaper to shoot than 22LR.

The first picture is 4.0 grs. of bullseye. The second is 3.5 grs. The third picture is the Mihec 6.8 SPC alongside the 280473. The 280473 has the gas check and the lube. Targets were at 50 yards. This was a Winchester Model 70A 270.

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mould numbers

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2011Locationnear Horicon Marsh in southern WiPosts9

What does Lymans mould numbers mean?
I know that the 1st three are the groove dia. so what does the last three represent?
Thanks

buggybuilder

The first three numbers are the nominal boolit dia. The last three I believe are the Design no.
swamp

Boolit Buddy Join DateJan 2013LocationMichiganPosts71

Its a secret code that many believe to unlock the secrets to life.

Top Punch number for lube sizer.

I've been led to believe that it's the cherry number that was used to cut the mold.

R.M.

The tree of liberty must be watered periodically with the blood of tyrants and patriots alike..........Thomas Jefferson

Boolit Buddy Join DateJan 2013LocationMichiganPosts71

LOL, should have used the word LEAD to believe! HA I crack myself up

I considered it, but with all the flack lately......

R.M.

The tree of liberty must be watered periodically with the blood of tyrants and patriots alike..........Thomas Jefferson

A great resource to find out just what the design is is located in a sticky.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?36355-Mold-Cheat-sheet-for-buyers

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mould possibly out of round

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2012Posts153

How common is it for a mould to be slightly out of round? I ask because I used my Lyman mould for the first time to make .45 SWC's. I pushed them through the sizer and they were pretty close to size already but parts of the boolit circumference are getting sized (looking shiny), and parts are not contacting the inside of the sizer. I've noticed this also with Lee boolits. How much of a concern is this with accuracy if they are slightly out of round?

Perhaps you should measure the boolits as dropped from the mould. Sometimes the sizer can be out of alignment and cause this symptom.

But, yes, of all the moulds I own, none of them cast a perfectly round boolit. I can accept an "as cast" boolit that is .001" to .003" out of round.

You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

Rare to get a perfect boolit from any mold but .454 is right about most sizers. I went to Lee push through to get better results.
Heat on the mold will expand the center of the cavity half out and also the edges out so they will be larger at the parting line.
Until I figure how to make a cherry to cut an oblong hole, I live with it.
I have found I can make the mold hot and re-cut by hand with the cherry to get a rounder boolit.

but I think james and myself are the only two here that believe that..

it's rare to find a mold within more than .001 roundness.
it is easier to get a near round hole in a sizer die, but the barrel will quite often mess it all up again.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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348 Winchester Mould Design Cast Diameter for Custom Moulds

My bore diameter is .348. How much larger should I make my mould? Several threads size to .351 or .352. One rifle needs .354.
My neck diameter is .377.
Normal suggestion is to size .001 or .002 over bore size.
I have two different lots of Winchester brass and the neck thickness for one is .012 max and the other is .011 max.
For best accuracy which is more important (factory and military chambers):
1. Bore diameter.
2. Using the largest bullet diameter the neck diameter will allow.

A bullet sized to .352 would give about .002 neck clearance, but over bore diameter by .004.
I know this is not a target rifle, but want to use this same concept for my military rifles. A local club has a cast bullet military rifle matches.

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Saeco 45 maxi ball mould

Just picked up one of these things. Its a 4 cav mould. Are these things kind of rare? Any idea of what it its worth(so I will know if I paid too much for it).

Thanks

New Saeco 4 cavity molds are listed at 238.00. I've never seen one in a Maxi Ball.

I saw some sell on ebay a little while back. They were 4 cavity 45 and 50 cal molds. IIRC, they went for around $125 each.

Lyman 22596,225107,225353,225438,225415,225450,225646, 225462,228367,244203,245496,245497,245498,245499 RCBS 22-55-SP,22-55-FP,243-95-SP,243-100-FP, NEI 100244GC-#14, 55 224 GC-#4,225 45-#3 PB, NOE 22-055 SP,MX2-243,Saeco 221 & 243, RD TLC225-50-RF,Lee 22 Bator 6c & 2c HP. Love casting small boolits, let me know if you have one that I don't that you would part with!

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rcbs mould maintenance

Good day,

I just rec'd a new rcbs mould .38-158-rn today and reading the paperwork that came with the mould it said - When your casting session is complete, leave the last pour in the mould. Do not cut off the spruce or remove the moulded bullets. This will help to prevent the interior of the mould from rusting. The mould is iron.

My question to everybody is how many of you do this. Or do you empty your mould out and spray, wipe it down with something before storage.

I'm new at this and just thought I would see what others do.

Thankyou.

No man is entitled to the blessings of freedom unless he is vigilant in its preservation. General MacArthur

I don't know how many casters do this, but I don't. According to many casters, it doesn't work...hasn't/didn't and won't. You of course are welcome to try if you wish, but Florida is known to have lots of humidity around and unless you have constant AC and the mold sealed off/protected in some way....you're going to get rust by following instructions in the RCBS paperwork. They ought to know better. My advice/practice is to empty the mold, spray it or oil it if you wish, seal it in a air-proof plastic pouch/bag with a dessicant /dryer element and put it in a GI ammo can. If you use oil or any product that has a petroleum base in it you will have to reclean the mold thoroughly before using it again. There is no hocus pocus attached to that...using mineral spirits, lacquer thinner or acetone will effectively do the job with the aid of a Q-Tip. (Be sure that your area is well ventilated). A hair dryer will finish the job and then preheat the blocks. Some people don't like the ritual, but I prefer it to rust...which is a real pain and it never sleeps. LLS

I've never left my last pour in. And I have never had one rust. But I'm in a very dry state and I keep my molds in a sealed box with dessicant. I also don't oil my molds.

I don't oil mine either. I might wipe them down with a gun cloth on the outside, but no oil. I store them in a safe that is equipped with a golden rod and that has always worked for me.

Socialism is a philosophy of failure,
the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy,
its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery."
-- Winston Churchill

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2011LocationBredasdorp South AfricaPosts70

I do the same as GaryN, sealed container with dessicant, no oil since it is a real hassle to get off next time you want to cast. We have a lot of moisture, and this has always worked well for me.

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2010LocationMichiganPosts514

Hello, Uncle. That last bullet left in mould theory is very old..but I never could understand it..if bullet fit were so tight to exclude moisture..you could never get it out of mould..lead shrinks. Some of my moulds only see use every few years or so, I spray mine while still barely warm to touch with industrial product..Mould Saver..contains lanolin..some have been so treated for over 20 years & stored in basement with zero rust.

I have some RCBS moulds that were stored in closet for over 10 years. I never did oil them before putting away and they have zero rust.

Thankyou everybody for the replies. All information greatly appreciatated.

No man is entitled to the blessings of freedom unless he is vigilant in its preservation. General MacArthur

don't do it.
lead oxidizes, oxides and iron don't work well together.
if you aren't gonna use it for a while just oil it or store it with a dessicant package.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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