First brass mold and first hollow point begginers help needed

Was lucky today to purchase a brass 2 cavity NOE 360477 mold with pin sets from a member here today with only a couple hundred cast in it and would like to get some info on how to make it work correctly.
From what i have read they like to be hotter but i don't want to warp it.
Also how do the boolets drop out with pins holding them ?
I have other NOE aluminum molds and RCBS molds and have no problems useing them but this seems to be a new ball game to me. I have a hot plate and i'm useing a Lee Pro 4 pot
Thanks, Steve

Steve;
Mihec has a video that shows correct usage of his hollow point mold - it is slightly different than NOE's but the same technique will work with the NOE:

http://www.mp-molds.com/index.php?pr=Cramer_style_casting

I pre-heat my molds on a steel top hot plate. If you have an open Calrod burner, place an old circular saw blade on it to spread the heat evenly. Mine works best on medium. The first time or two you use it, kind of sneak up on the heat. You don't want to overheat the mold. I prefer to heat mine up to the point that I only need one or two casts before it is running well.

FWIW
Dale53

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Old West .35 cal hollow point mould "issue"

I recently bought a .35 cal Old West hollow point mould that appears to have an "issue". The issue is that the bore riding portion mikes .355"! Now the design is very similar to Lymans 358009, and this boolit, cast from ww+1%tin, already weighs 280g w/o the gas check. The OAL is 1.143", and about half of it's length is the bore riding section, (similar to my 358009.) Both of my Rem 700 35 Whelen's and my new to me BLR in .358 Winchester sem to prefer .350
bore riders. I haven't tried to load any of the Old West boolits yet, and quite franckly, I'm a little bit afraid to because I'm sure this boolit is gonna need to be seated almost back to the primer! Do any of you have any experience with a similar situation?

It's all chicken, even the beak!

Make up a "dummy" round and try it in your chambers. My Remington 700 .350 magnum has such a long leade that I'm not sure it would matter in my rifle. It very well could prove to be a good bullet for you.

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Saw a nice 7 point tonight!

Boolit Mold Join DateAug 2012Posts16

We are at my wife's aunts house near buffalo ny and I saw a really nice 7point playing in the back yard with 11 other deer. It was last years rack! Any one seen one that long after fall?

I've been seeing a lot of deer lately while driving along I-70 here, not a one with antlers for a good while now. That sounds like an exceptional case that he has held onto his for so long.

All of ours around here are slicks that I have seen!

The sum total of intelligence in the world is a constant, the population is increasing.

All it will take is one good sneeze or one good breeze to knock them off, I'd bet!

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

Some years ago I saw several bucks still wearing their racks in April in Cades Cove in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Their biological clock is definatly different than the deer here in middle Tennessee. Some of our local bucks won't make it 'til January 1st with theirs.

I was stationed at Aberdeen Proving Grounds, MD in 1998. That year I saw bucks still carrying their antlers well into March. I thought that was odd too.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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