Chamber cast or impact slug?

I was wondering if making an impact slug of a rifles throat is a better/worse method of measuring throat diameter etc., as opposed to just making a Cerrosafe chamber casting? I know that I have to wait 1 hour before measuring the casting and that after 1 month it expands quite a bit..any opinions as to which method is best?

If you are going to send the upset slug to the mold maker to ensure proper fit, LBT and others seem to prefer the upset pure lead slug, because "what you see is what you get" and it is constant.

pound slug.
make a couple of them you'll know which one to use.
and don't forget some type of lube I like lanolin.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

If you know how to use it the Cerrosafe will work fine. I use it all the time. I also have ponded slugs in and they work ok too. Have tried both with the same chamber and got the same results with Cerrosafe a whole lot easier.

Larry Gibson

If you know how to use it the Cerrosafe will work fine. I use it all the time. I also have ponded slugs in and they work ok too. Have tried both with the same chamber and got the same results with Cerrosafe a whole lot easier.

Larry Gibson

I agree.

NRA Endowment member, TSRA Life member, Distinguished Rifleman, Viet Nam Vet

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Powder Burn in Chamber or Bore?

Smokeless powder doesn't really "burn." It is made up of one or two unstable chemical compounds, nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine, that decompose by deflagration with release of heat and gas when initiated. I'm not trying to be a jerk, Jim, but I don't think your definition of deflagration matches those the rest of us use. What you are describing would be more appropriately called 'detonation'. However, smokeless powders are designed to deflagrate. Detonation in a firearm usually results in unintended high speed disassembly (catastrophic failure).

Wikipedia:
"Deflagration [1] (Lat: de + flagrare, "to burn down") is a term describing subsonic combustion propagating through heat transfer; hot burning material heats the next layer of cold material and ignites it. Most "fire" found in daily life, from flames to explosions, is deflagration. Deflagration is different from detonation, which is supersonic and propagates through shock." [emphasis mine]

Farlex dictionary:
"def·la·grate:
To burn or cause to burn with great heat and intense light."
"deflagration - combustion that propagates through a gas or along the surface of an explosive at a rapid rate driven by the transfer of heat"

Merriam-Webster:
"deflagrate:
to burn rapidly with intense heat and sparks being given off"

Compare that to "detonate":
Merriam-Webster:
"detonate:
to explode with sudden violence"

Wikipedia:
Detonation involves a supersonic exothermic front accelerating through a medium that eventually drives a shock front propagating directly in front of it. Detonations are observed in both conventional solid and liquid explosives,[1] as well as in reactive gases.
...
In terms of external damage, it is important to distinguish between detonations and deflagrations where the exothermic wave is subsonic and maximum pressures are at most a quarter of those generated by the former. Processes involved in the transition between deflagration and detonation are covered thoroughly for gasses by Nettleton.
...
Unintentional detonation when deflagration is desired is a problem in some devices. In internal combustion engines it is called engine knocking and causes loss of power and excessive heating of certain components. In firearms, it may cause catastrophic and possibly lethal failure." [emphasis mine]

The fact that burn rates can be controlled by granule size, shape, and density, should be a big hint that it's deflagration, not detonation.

__________________
"Such is the strange way that man works -- first he virtually destroys a species and then does everything in his power to restore it."

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Savage 6.5 Creedmoor chamber issues

I suppose most of what I recommend will seem obvious but here goes anyway... First off take the bolt out and shine a flashlight down the chamber. If you don't see anything obvious like the aforementioned bur or rough marks in the chamber, try swabbing it out with acetone to dissolve any coatings that could be in there. Then clean the rifle as normal and take it out and shoot it again. If the problem persists, take it back to the dealer that sold it to you and talk to them about sending it in for warranty work...

Tony

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Chamber Brush

I bought a Pro-Shot Chamber Brush. What POS. The bristles started falling out the first time it was used. (It jams in the forcing cone and if you twist it, the shank opens up and it loses brass bristles.) I think the problem is some kind of brass wire used to form the shank, instead of steel.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Shot-Gauge-Chamber-Brush-Handle/dp/B008P8F1GC

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358W chamber problems??

I would appreciated some input from other .358W owners.

If there's anyone out there with some fired .358 WW brass on hand, could you please measure the outside neck diameter?

I'm splitting case necks after only a few firings with mild loads and suspect the culprit is simply a crappy batch of WW cases.

Thank you,
MJ

It's not about gun control, it's about people control. The progressives are using terrorists and the insane to further their agenda. If the socialist news media wasn't complicit, we could sit back and watch Fast & Furious and Benghazi-gate unfold.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Pouring a chamber cast............

What do you use as a funnel of sorts? I tried using an aluminum foil funnel, it leaked I think, or I over filled the chamber not really knowing how much I needed. It was a real mess in a 1912 Chilean Mauser. Thanks be to God I was able to Dremil tool out the part that went into to locking lugs without any damage to my collectible rifle. SO I am at the stage where I still want to use Cerrosafe but I don't want another accident like the last one. Aluminum foil funnels are a no go for me from now on. I see Midway USA just shows using a ladle to pour in the alloy in a 43 Mauser, I am not sure I want to go that way either. Another poster on You-tube shows using a piece of what looks like Tygon tubing and a funnel to feed the chamber area, this seam like it would melt. As I set here, I just thought, I have access to Teflon tubing and it is temp. stable to 200C. Maybe that would be the ticket. What do you use......?

The Cerrosafe melts at about the same temperature as boiling water.
You can use a plastic funnel, and it won't melt. Heck, you could use a funnel made of paper and it would hold up long enough to fill a chamber.

If you get a Cerrosafe casting locked up in your rifle, just turn it upside down and heat the steel gently with a heat gun or propane torch. It will melt right out.
If nothing else, stick the stripped action in a pan of boiling water for a minute, or so.

CM

Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

piece of 3/8" copper pipe flared on the one end. melt it in and pour it with a lyman ladle.

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. H.L. Mencken

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Leading in chamber area

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationNE OregonPosts2

I have been reading and searching here for about 2 months. I have a sporterized fed ord '03A3 with 2 groove bbl. This rifle is used only for cast loads. I'm loading laser-cast 165gr RNFP PB, sized .310 (bhn 24), over Unique, I have tried 10.0, 10.5, 11.0, 11.5, and 12.0 gr. All loads shoot about 2" at 100 yds and 4" at 200. After about 5 shots leading appears in the chamber area. From all I have read the hardness seems to be the cause. Can I overcome this (I was given 3# of Unique and about 350 boolits)??? Currently I do not have the resources or space to cast my own. Where can I find softer boolits in about the same weight and sizing? I am addicted to these low recoil, low noise loads. Any help will be appreciated.

What is the "chamber area", exactly? Give location in reference to case mouth/front of chamber.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationNE OregonPosts2

Appears to be 1 to 2 inches in front of case mouth.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
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