Savage 6.5 Creedmoor chamber issues

I suppose most of what I recommend will seem obvious but here goes anyway... First off take the bolt out and shine a flashlight down the chamber. If you don't see anything obvious like the aforementioned bur or rough marks in the chamber, try swabbing it out with acetone to dissolve any coatings that could be in there. Then clean the rifle as normal and take it out and shoot it again. If the problem persists, take it back to the dealer that sold it to you and talk to them about sending it in for warranty work...

Tony

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Lee Auto Prime Hand Primer Issues

This is the second batch in a row its done this. IDK if its the primers or the tool. I clean the tool and take the holder out after every use. When I am doing SP primers I'll get ONE that will go in sideways and force me to knock out the primer before I could get my holder back.

Primers are TulAmmo SP. I've done several hundred with this tool and the past two batches had one go in sideways. Only difference is...different primer.

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.223 Issues

It's been years since I reloaded .223 as it used to be as cheap to buy as to reload. Times change. Decided I'd reload some but I am running into an issue when I attempt to crimp cases, and that is the die pushes the neck back into the case a bit & deforms it. Had the same issue years ago. I was loading up some dummy rounds to get the dies set when I ran into the issue.

Attached is an image of it. Sorry it's a bit blurred but you can see the issue.

If I back it off and don't crimp, I have no problems.

Boolit Bub Join DateMay 2013LocationmichiganPosts22

You re trying to crimp too much, back off the seating die about 3 full turns, and start another case.
Use a magnifying glass if your eyes are as old as mine to see how much crimp you have and work the die down about a quarter turn at a time.

That or crimp with a separate die. Lee FCD is cheap and collet crimp works like a charm.

I support your right to keep and arm bears.

Get and use the Lee FCD. Roll crimping rifle brass is a hit and miss affair but the FCD works all the time.

Thanks gents. I'll check the FCD out.

When using the built in roll crimp that is in the seater die it is very important that all the cases are trimmed to the same exact length. After that you can adjust die and have no further problem. Now when you get more experience you can crimp by feel. This takes some time to master, but it works. I've gone a lot of years with the built in roll crimp. Yes I buckled necks until I learned what the problem was.

I have a Redding S die with the removal necksizing bushing.
I just remove the bushing and run it threw the die again.
Best solution I've found for a collapse shoulder.

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only to God and my own conscience.

?You cannot spend your way to prosperity,
just like you cannot fornicate your way to virginity.?

Why do you feel its nessisary to even crimp them? I shoot thousands of 223 reloads every year out of my ars and dont crimp and have never had a single problem with them.

The Lee Factory Crimp die will allow you to crimp the neck without buckling the shoulder. Four seasons of shooting NRA High Power and all the experimentation that went with it led me to stop crimping. Factory ammo is made to survive any conditions it may face, and it does that quite well. However, it is not necessary. When I stopped crimping my groups shrank and I could consistently dope my sights for conditions of the day's shoot. I never had one of the many thousands of rounds I fired in practice or competition push the bullet into the case.

Loading the .223 is as straightforward as they come. Standard primers, powder near the burn rate of Varget, deburr case necks, and seat the bullet to 2.250".

IF you have sufficient neck tension, there's no need to crimp them. Pic is too blurry to see if there's a cannelure on that jaxketed bullet, if there is no cannelure, you're not going to be able to roll crimp at all.

The lee FCD would work on any bullet. It's not even dependent on exact case length, as long as it isn't way too long or too short.

I've NEVER crimped any .223 loads, ever. No need for it if your sizer die is working right, and the expander button is the right size. Result; you have enough bullet pull/case neck tension to allow for no crimp.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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223 Rem Concentricity issues, need help.

I cast some Lyman 225415's (55 gr), sized them in a new Lee .224 die. They checked a little big, but OK. After seating, they looked a bit 'funny'. When I checked them with my Sinclair concentricity gauge they averaged a whopping .016 TIR ! The cases check OK at the shoulder and the neck. Neck wall thickness varies only slightly. I made some dummies with another brand of brass, same results. I used a 'M' die to expand and all went well there. I can't seem to find the cause. I have marked a few on the high side with a marker and tweaked them more or less straight. I'm wondering though if my new Lee die could be off center, and how I could rule the die out as the problem?

Dutch

"The future ain't what it used to be".
-Yogi Berra.

Hornady dies have a floating sleeve to keep the boolit straight as it is
seated. Redding and Forster make very expensive 'benchrest' seaters that
also have the floating sleeve. I ONLY buy Hornady rifle dies anymore.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Are you using a TURRET press? I've seen the turrets pop up a little from wear.

Sounds like the seating stem is not fitting the boolit olgive. You said it is a Lee die. In a Lee seater die the seating stem can be inverted and they will sometimes come from the factory that way. One end is recessed to fit the boolit/bullet and the other end is flat. First check to see if the seating stem has been inverted and has the flat end down.
If that is not the problem check the recessed end for fit to your boolit. There could be a burr causing the boolit to tip while being seated or the recessed cut is a poor fit to your boolit olgive or something else with the seating stem like the recess being bored off center.
One other mistake people make is in locking down the die in the press before alignment has been made. Let the die float until the press ram pushes it into alignment then lock it down.

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Remington 750 scope mounting issues

My uncle brought a Remington 750 in .243 to sight in at my back yard range. Took a few rounds and figured out the scope if pointing skyward. Ran out of lower elevation and still shooting 3' high at 50 yards. Irons are dead on. Set the rifle up in my rest and put a .22 cal. range rod down the bore and leveled the rifle from there. The scope mount rail screwed to the top of the receiver had to be elevated 5/32" to make it come in level with the bore. Are these rifles just made this way or is the barrel out of whack to the receiver that much? We called Remington and they are sending a packing slip to send the rifle back to be checked out.

Is there a scope base that can be adjusted that much? At that much elevation for the rail I'd have to mill off too much of the rail to get it in line with the bore.

Next question, anybody know the twist rate for this rifle and what ammo would be a good bet for it?

Thanks

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Seating Depth issues

Was setting up the press for a different 9mm boolit tonight, and made 6 dummy rounds to check for chambering in my pistol. When I measured the OAL, I got quite a spread: 1.078, 1.079, 1.1.083, 1.084, 1.088, 1.088.

These aren't difference immediately obvious to the naked eye, but I've noticed this before when I've taken the time to check O
AL. Is this spread normal? Is it a problem?

Pat

You might want to check your seating plug for boolit loob. A buildup will cause that kind of variation. Also, make sure your seating stem is secure.

CPL Lou

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lee rifle dies issues. Please help

Ccctennis, learning how to adjust dies so they can perform optimally applies to ALL brands, not just Lee. One poster said you shouldn't have to work on dies before using them. By that statement, it is clear the man did NOT read your post or mine, (and is not aware of what "sticks" a collet die). Adjust each die as Lee says and they will work for you.

To the poster that throws dies away, PLEASE tell us where your trash can is located and immediately when you throw these fine dies out. At least give us the oppurtunity to put back into service what would not "work" for you. Start a thread in the Trading Post. SInce you were going to "throw them away", maybe you wouldn;t want to sell them, but might settle for the cost of shipping paid by the recipient. Reloaders are tinkers. As such, they can usually understand how things work and make them do just that. Remember when we tried to put things together on Christmas eve, only to find we wished we'd paid more attention to the instructions before we started? Read and follow Lee's instructions.

I'm reloading for 12 calibers right now (13 when I can find the right 260Rem rifle). The only other-than-lee dies I own is a Redding neck sizer for 300 Savage. Yes it's handsome and it works as it should. Unfortunately, I paid twice or three times what its worth. And....since I understand" how the die works, I am confident that its design is probably not near as accurate as the result when using a Lee collet die. Should I throw it out? Not a chance and I won;t bash it and say I did.

Now, I do understand that the high cost goes into Redding's account as "insurance", in case I call someday and say" Listen, I was throwing some Lee dies away yesterday, and I didn;t see my Redding neck sizer among them. Can I please have another?" They'll send a new one. I already paid for it so they should. Or "I was using my RCBS die as a lure last month, and the line broke. By the time I could dive around and find it, it had rusted up on the inside and elsewhere. Can I have another?" They'll send you a brand new one, because you paid for it when you first bought the die!

Originally Posted by jaguarxk120 A box of 20 Remington cases from Midway is $15 and you have squashed how many cases with the junk dies?

Won't take long to pay for a set of good dies at that rate.

Jaguar, did you read Ccctennis' first post? During the seating process, what mangles the case neck. The dies or...... the operator?

Ccctennis: By reading your first post, there were two problems:
- the collet die wouldn't sufficiently reduce the diameter of the case necks;
- a bullet seating die mangled a couple of cases

The bullet seating die, as every one of these experienced reloaders know (which makes it strange that it would be overlooked after so many posts!!), is NOT going to mangle your cases, not Lee, Redding, RCBS, Lyman, or any of them. What does that is improper bullet placement during operation of the die, and/or innsufficient or too much flaring of the case mouth on cases that require flaring.

The reason the Lee collet wouldn't squeeze the neck down is one or a combination of these factors:
- THey are adjusted improperly,
- The collet die is stuck (as I explained earlier),
- The cases have been fired to the point that annealing is necessary. (My bottleneck cases are annealed and full-length sized after every fifth firing).
- the reloader is not raising the ram with enough pressure (as Lee explains in the instructions)

Stick with your dies. They're fine. What's not fine is being talked into buying dies with insurance policies that work no better than the Lees. Lee sells reloading equipment, not insurance. I can understand guys wanting you to buy what they have. What I can;t understand is the dogging of Lee equipment and the constant reference to "throing things in the trash". This makes me doubt the reloaders experience or..... willingness to follow instructions.

It's ok to buy other brands - if you want to pay the price of die and insurance. They're fine. Just please don;t fall into the trap of, in the furture, blaming Lee dies when some other reloader asks a question about his Lee dies. You will cause that reloader to doubt his otherwise fine equipment, run to the shop for something more expensive, and probably never answer his question in the first place. There will be cases where a specialty die (for an operation that the Lee dies will not perform) is recommended. It is for this legitimate reason that I own the Reddng neck sizer. Lee didn;t have one, it was cost prohibitive to have them make one special, and I wanted it quickly. There are other circumstances that guys will run into that require the purchase of a Redding, or RCBS, or whatever, but none that have applied to my reloading needs.

!!!

ON EDIT: Ccctennis - you do NOT need to "rework" Lee dies before they'll perform for you. Just follow the instructions. On the collet neck sizers, polishing and lubing the collet can help, but is not usually necesarry. When they get stuck, it is usually what the reloader did that I described in the previous post. Also, after using it on many cases, you may find that it will require some lubrication in the collet, whether you want to or not. The symptoms are a "clicking" sound when crushing the neck, and....the die will show signs that it wants to stick.

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How a boolit trap can help solve leading issues

for about two years now I've been trying to solve the leading issue in my 9mm. I have tried all the normal things, slugging the barrel, adjusting one variable at a time, keeping good records, sizing the bullet etc. My calipers are apparently not accurate enough to help solve this problem the way they should. According to them the bullets should fill the bore, But they don't.

Through lots of reading on this forum and help from members here I have to deduced that the bullets are too small. All the symptoms seems to indicate is much. I ordered a larger mold and have today tried shooting them in my 9mm. they are sized at .358. I also recently built a small and portable bullet trap. Below are some examples of what I collected. I found it very interesting.

The top three bullets are not from my 9mm. They are from my 357/38 however they're the same type of bullet as the middle row only larger. You'll notice the lube grooves have retained there definition and the rifling is cut in the bullet. The bottom row is the new bullet shot for my 9mm sized to .358. Again they have retained their definition and engraved a good rifling. The middle row is the old bullet the lube grooves are practically gone and there is just the faint shadowing of a rifling. As I see it the bullet is traveling down the bore probably not taking on much of a spin. The lands are essentially just barely engraving. The result is the lands, which are in a spiral, shave the boolit down as it travels down the bore at a spin slower than the rifling.

It is a working theory but it doesn't look like gas cutting to me, at least not entirely. Where is all the lead that used to be lube grooves? In the barrel of course and blown out the front of it down range. The result is horrible accuracy bad leading and lots of frustration. Having a bullet trap makes identifying this quick and easy because you can compare your results with other loads you know work.

The result is a theory drawn from evidence and the advice of experienced folks. The theory applied and results can now be observed and the theory confirmed. I found a pretty interesting. Thanks to all of you who have addressed the leading issues on this forum.

P.S. the black gunk is from the rubber in the trap if you are wondering.

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NOE mold HP .452 need help, User issues?

I didn't know exactly how to word the title, but I' having a heck of a time getting good boolits out of this mold, and I'm pretty sure its me, not the mold. I have a NOE .452 HP 4 cavity mold throwing 230gr HP boolits. I use it off and on, and sometimes i get 50% good boolits and sometimes worse %. Once i got perfect boolits every cast, so i ran as many as i could. The problem is repeating that feat, i haven't been able to. That was before i got a Temp on my alloy and the mold. I have a RCBS Thermometer on the alloy and NOE's Digital probe on the mold. The alloy is 800-700F, and I preheat my old to 340F (best i could get with my hot plate) then cast a few trying to get it up to temp. I had to cast very fast to get the mold temp to 412F and i couldn't get it above that. The boolits were 70% too wavy, with about 20% good and the other 10% look like i ripped them out of the mold and they "tore". I have to tap with a wooden handle several times to get the mold to open, which makes it slow going.

I have 8 mold of different types 6 cavity down to 2 and get about 95%-100% on all of them just about every cast, so this one is my only HP and its the only one i have trouble with. Lastly I just got the probe holds drilled and only have probe mold temp data on this mold.

Any help could be really appreciated. Now i think of it, i just came in to write this and i threw all the bad ones back into the furnace, so i don't have pictures right now, but can do it over again and post them if i can't figure it out without them.

Help!

Steel185;
First of all, it's probably NOT the mould (the only way I could be sure would be to cast some with the mould). Wrinkled bullets almost invaribly involve a mould that has not been properly cleaned. After trying many ways over the years, I now use Dawn Dishwashing liquid, hot tap water and and old toothbrush. Scrub the dickens out of the mould cavities. Rinse in VERY hot water and pat dry with clean tissues (no tissues having lotion in them, etc.). Then pre-heat the mould as you have been doing. I do one other thing and take special attention to my hollow point moulds. I lube the alignment features of the mould with Bullshop's Sprueplate Lube. NO lube in the cavities but the alignment pins. That should help opening the mould. When you use hollow point moulds such as the Mihec (MP molds) or NOE, you have two competing techniques - you must have the mould hot enough (and particularly the pins) so that you get good fill out. However, alloy has to cool before you can get the bullets off the pins so that you don't crack the bullets at the hollow point cavity. I discovered that using a mold release on the nose of the pins (graphite spray from an auto parts store or Home Depot works about as well) allows the bullets to drop off before the pins cool too much. I suggest you apply the mold release (to the part of the hollow point pin that makes the hollow point) and let it dry. You'll end up with a matt surface - you do NOT want any build-up.

Try those tips and see if they don't help. There should be NO binding in opening and closing the mould.

Keep us posted of your progress.

Dale53

tap gently on the handle nut to crack it open, and only open it ENOUGH for the boolits to fall out. Then close quickly, helps keep heat in.

Sounds like you need a hotter mould. I wouldn't get my allow hotter than about 725. Dale gave some good advice. I use bullplate like stuff on my pins. After I heat up the mould with the hotplate I dip it in the alloy until the alloy will no longer stick to it. Then the first ten or so fills of the mould I just dump in the sprue pile. Sometimes less than ten fills. It depends on what I see happening. If I have a problem with the pins being too cold I give em' a shot with a trigger controlled hand torch. But I stress just a short shot. Keep the torch (if you use one) away from the aluminum. Once you are up to temp on the mould it will all flow like clockwork. But you have to keep moving or the mould will cool off. And I don't use a wet rag to cool the mould. It might be useful on an iron mould but not aluminum. I also use a bullplate substitute on the alignment pins and both sides of the sprue plate. I also put it on the top of the mould. Just don't get any in the cavities. It will screw up your boolits. You can tell when you need more bullplate on the sprue plate. It will start to stick again. Also do a lot of reading in the mould forum. This question comes up at least once a week sometimes more. There is some excellent advice you can find just by looking in past threads.

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