Lot's of parts are easy to find and cheap too.
__________________The problem with the P30-the grip texture is REALLY rough on skin and wears off to slick. The trigger reset is typical HK, the pull is spongy.
These are my observations.
The Walther has one of the best, if not best, triggers for a DA/SA (P99) and DAO (PPQ) in plastic. Period.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009OGLG04/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1370910939&sr=8-2&pi=SL75
Does anybody have any experience with this one? I have heard a lot of bad things concerning battery operated gun safes.
For that price tag I would avoid Kimber if I were you, from what I've been led to understand they aren't worth what you pay for them. Once again this is from what I have heard, I have never fired a Kimber pistol. They are pretty.
If I was spending over $1000 (of course not wveryone is the same as me)
I would be looking at 3 choices; an H&K P30, a Sig P226 or a Sig 1911, I really like the look of the stainless models, but also the nightmare. I've shot all three and I like the 1911 the best, but if ammo capacity matters to you at all it might not be a good choice.
Personally, I greatly prefer the grip on the P30, and HK's in general over SIGs DA/SA guns. Plus you can expect the HK to be as reliable as they come, the P30 is the continuation of a line of Pistols (P30, P2000, USP) evolving/devolving from the MK23. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heckler_%26_Koch_Mark_23
If you are interested in 1911's SIG is a great choice; and I hear (but have not shot) that Smith and Wesson makes a great 1911 as well and I beleive you could find one in that price range.
You know, if I made the choice right now (as in if I were in your shoes) I would probably pick a SiG 1911.
http://www.sigsauer.com/CatalogProdu...tols-1911.aspx
The number of choices is outstanding, I imagine you could find a 1911 for any taste in this lineup.
My .02 cents.
Groundhog, with a wide open field, 150 yards.
With a .44 Magnum, shot placement is not so critical on varmints as on larger game.
Bob Wright
There are plenty of good choices among 9 mm, and each has its fans. In general, there is a balance or compromise to side on for every handgun feature.
Polymer vs metal is, in large part, light vs heavy. Weight is bad when you are carrying it around, good when it is absorbing recoil.
Thumb safeties give you an extra step in firing. That may be good if you don't trust your trigger discipline, bad if you forget to thumb it off in an emergency.
You can say similar things about nearly every feature for which you have a choice. The choices are there because people value different sets of features.
Triggers may be single action (SA), double action (DA), or double action/single action (DA/SA). On a SA pistol, the trigger performs the single action of letting the cocked hammer or striker fall. A DA trigger performs two actions of cocking and then releasing the firing mechanism. A DA/SA has DA on the first round, then, because the slide has cocked the pistol, SA on subsequent shots until the user decocks it. DA is typically heavier than SA - again, good for shooting, but easier to accidentally discharge. Some people don't like to learn the transition from DA to SA on a DA/SA, and others like the safety of the first DA shot. Different strokes.
Glocks and CZs are good starting places, but a better approach may be to consider what features you want and then shop for the pistol that meets those needs. I have a couple of Berettas and a Sig, too, that I like. Are they better than HK or Springfield or a dozen other choices? Not to everyone.
You are going to hear from lots of people who have favorites. My advice is to pay more attention to WHY they made their pick rather than WHAT they picked so you can make your own informed decision.
\ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\Casting Boolits\thefiringline\smile.gif "Smilie")
. I'm somewhat new to the world of firearms. I've been shooting since I can remember but always with other people guns and I never really did any of the maintenance or research involved with owning firearms. As a consequence I love guns but know very very little about them. I got my very first gun for christmas. An off-the-shelf wal-mart special on a 12 gauge shotgun. Nothing fancy but very suitable for my needs. I've been shooting clay pigeons with it numerous times and my friends love going shooting too. I've loved the idea of owning my own guns ever since I got my shotgun and decided to add to my arsenal. I've been doing research for a while and last week I bought a 91/30 Mosin Nagant. Very satisfied with the rifled especially considering how cheap it was.
So... my question. The next thing I want to start researching is a good handgun. I've got this idea in my head that I need at least one rifle, one shotgun, and one handgun. That way I'll be prepared for whatever I need. The shotgun and rifle are mostly for hunting but I want a handgun primarily for home defense and concealed carry. It doesn't need to be anything with amazing range, and I'm not looking to blast a huge hole in whatever I'm shooting(or whoever if worse comes to worse). Mostly I'm looking for something reliable and something cheap(both in initial cost and the cost of ammunition).
So far my research has led me in the direction of a 357 revolver. I like the sound of revolvers being more reliable and general more straightforward weapons(besides... revolvers are freaking cool!). As far as getting a .357.... thats basically just what a lot of people seem to prefer. I don't really know why.
There's so much I don't know though I thought I'd put the question to you guys. I know it's a bit of a novel... but what does everyone think? What kind of handgun would be reliable, cheap, and just generally practical?
I like the S&W 13, 19, 65, 66, 38/357mag in a 4" barrel
Or, Charter Arms 5 shot 2.5" barrel 44 special
Both would be my choices. I might have to restart my Charter Arms search!
Here is a picture of fired primers of .357 mag cases. 125gr. jacketed over 19 gr. h110. The interesting thing is that these fired out of a blackhawk flattened primers significantly more than the identical load fired out of a 94 marlin long gun. I can't really think of an explanation. I bet someone on here can explain it to me.
Too busy to cast cast your own boolits? I can cast them for you. Check out my website.
www.mattsbullets.com
I'm looking for the following:
4 Cavity Lyman 429348, 358344
Lyman 429106, 358425 - 121 grain version
Dillon "V" shellplate for 550 press
Tighter chambers for the Blackhawk maybe. All other things being held constant, the tighter the chamber the higher the pressure. That's one reason they advise against having an oil coating in the chamber since oil is basically non compressible and therefore makes the chamber "tighter". I don't know about your rifle, but the chambers on my lever guns run a mite to the large and loose side for more positive feeding.
?Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't after you?, Joseph Heller, Catch-22
In a rifle the cartridge is held against the bollt face with the extactor,, In the BH there is more space to the recoil sheid.. Just a guess ; )
H/D
Last edited by Hogdaddy; Today at 10:07 AM.
How about this: In the Blackhawk the bullet crossing from the cylinder to the barrel and hitting the forcing cone causes a momentary pressure spike. I have noticed the same results between my S&W and my H&R .357.
All three of the above are possible causes.In addition in the revolver the head space is probably longer. There is extra space between the base of the case and the recoil shield to allow the cylinder to revolve freely. This space allows the primer to back up on ignition, then the case moves to the rear as the pressure builds, reseating the primer. The result is the appearance of higher pressure.
bgokk Patron Member NRA
The second amendment is the guarantee for all the other amendments...........
Boolit Master Join DateOct 2009LocationTennesseePosts567I wouldn't let it bother me. Could be more headspace in the handgun less in the rifle and the primer backs out the head of the case slaps it harder thus flatting it out more in the handgun.
But since that is almost a non issue I wouldn't think another thing about it and move on to something more worthwhile in the world of ballistics.
We Know Mass Cannot Be Weighed But It Has Newtonian Weight And That Is Derived From Kilograms And Kilograms Can Be Converted to Pounds. But, Still Mass Cannot Be Weighed. But How is the kilograms obtained? Can Kilograms Be Weighed? Evidentally Yes It Can. But, Still Mass Cannot Be Weighed So Kilograms Must Not Exist. Funny Isn't It.
Boolit Master Join DateJan 2006LocationMissouri OzarksPosts546It is because with most revolvers the headspace is greater than in a rifle. In the revolver the distance between the standing breech and the base of the case is comparitively generous. When the hammer hits the primer it pushes the case forward maximizing headspace. The pressure created by the primer causes the primer to back out. Chamber pressure then pushes the entire case backwards reseating the primer resulting in the flattened primers.I believe this is also the reason that bottlenecked cartridge cases often cause problems in revolvers. When the cartridge fires the case is driven back as far as possible and the case is fireformed to the maximum chamber length. The tapered portions of the case become wedged into the chamber. With such a tight fit it becomes more difficult for the cylinder to rotate. In bolt action guns the bolt is retracted axially relieving pressure on the case. This combined with the camming leverage of a turnbolt facilitates extraction.
You do understand that pressures are based on individual guns right? So what is good in one may be well over pressure in another. Tighter chambers, bores, headspace issues, etc it all matters. You can't just plug one high end load into any gun & expect identical results.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
I think it may be more complicated than that. A boolit leaving a rifle chamber has no cylinder gap to cross and so moves freely. A boolit approaching the cylinder gap gets scared, hesitates a bit, and then takes that leap of faith. The moment of hesitation is pretty tense and the primer reflects the adrenaline spike. I'm sure that's got to be it. I'd like to see how that same boolit acts to the sudden realization that the ride is coming to an abrupt end.
"Silence in the face of tyranny implies consent, and I do not consent." Mike Vanderbough, April 20, 2013You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Hi, all! I'm new to casting/reloading and have already learned a lot from lurking on this great forum for a while.Some RCBS brand 'rifle bullet lube' came along with the pre-owned RCBS Lube-a-matic sizer/lubricator I recently acquired. I tried doing a search here to see how it differs from the plain-old RCBS 'bullet lube', but couldn't turn up anything.
Am I okay using the 'rifle bullet lube' to lube my cast SWCs and SWC-HPs for .357 magnum handgun usage? (These will be gas-checked.) Thanks!
