Plated Bullet Load data?

I am new to the Forum and would like to say hello. Hello! I am loading for 10mm using Proofmark 155 gr. flat nose copper Plated, and Accurate #9.
I have had conflicting advise about the load data. Some have said to just load to jacketed specs, but others have said that I must load to cast bullet specs. I can see some validity in both arguments but am not sure. Glade to be a part of the Forum!

If nobody gets back to you.....try the bullet website and see what they say.
TCG

Have a good 'un thecyberguy

Support our troops...they are somebody's kids!

"try the bullet website and see what they say."
That is the strange thing I can't seem to find the official data.

This from Berry's plated bullets website:
FAQ: How fast can I shoot these bullets?
Velocities depend on the caliber, but as a rule of thumb, we recommend you don't shoot our plated bullets over 1250 feet-per-second. Our 44's actually shoot best around 1150 fps. 45's are generally good at 850-900 fps. Our bullets are not recommended for magnum velocities over 1250fps unless the bullet description denotes a thick plated bullet with a higher listed maximum for velocity.
http://www.berrysmfg.com/faq-q10-c1-How_fast_can_I_shoot_these_bullets.aspx

TCG

Have a good 'un thecyberguy

Support our troops...they are somebody's kids!

Have a good 'un thecyberguy

Support our troops...they are somebody's kids!

"When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual" (from link)
sounds good to me. Thank you, and Thank you for the welcome.

Also for good measure "Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads. "

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Load for .38 Special 122GR Flat Point Bullet

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

View the original article here

M16 full auto bullet question

I will be shooting a full auto m16a1 with a silencer.

I recently purchased 5000 .223 bullets/projectiles that are soft tip (meaning the tip is exposed lead so as to cause a mushroom upon impact). I think I may have made a mistake buying these bullets, as I heard that for an m16 full auto, with it's high rate of fire, and with a silencer, you need FMJ.

The reason being that the high rate of fire will cause lead deposits into the gas system and the silencer will be fouled up with lead. Someone told me that you're not supposed to shoot non jacketed or plated bullets through a silencer, as the lead or carbon can harden onto the baffles and ruin the baffles.

Is this true? Can I run these bullets through my gun? Will it ruin the silencer?

View the original article here

Might be wrong bullet for this rifle

I've used up almost all the bullets from my borrowed molds so now I'm beginning to work with bullets from my own molds . The first one I wanted to work with is the Lyman 225462 I wanted to use this bullet in this particular Savage model 110 because flat nosed bullets tend to hang-up during feeding from the magazine . First I found that with my bullets sized at .2253" (ish) the best overall length of loaded ammo is 2.057" . At 2.060 you can feel the bullets pushing into the rifling when chambering and accuracy is worse than when I seat them a little shorter . I also tried seating them to 2.040" and that went nowhere as well .

With bullets seated to 2.057" , no gas checks , tumble lubed and sized then light tumble with paste wax . I used pistol primers and three point three grains of Bullseye at thirty yards and got ten shot groups I could cover with a nickle . OK now to me THAT shoots , I'm trying to make the rifle do that with a powder that gets more velocity now . In the past with other bullets , eight grains of Unique and a pistol primer will shoot like that . Not with this 225462 bullet though , I backed off the charge and ran it up to eight point two and no joy . I backed off the charge and swtiched to small rifle primers ... nope ! I went from Javalina lube to LBT , and no real big difference . I changed crimp from light to none and even tried a LEE factory crimp and that didn't help .

What is frustraing is the last bullet I used was the RCBS 22-55-SP with the same eight grain charge , pistol primer , light crimp and it would almost go into the same hole . All the while with a velocity of about twenty-one hundred feet per second . Feeding wasn't positive but it shot great .

I'm thinking along the line of trying Hercules twenty-four hundred , in the past with the RCBS bullet it was reasonably accurate when used in an eleven grain charge . I went to using Unique because it left cases cleaner and had less of a velocity deviation . I wonder with the longer bearing surface of the 225462 if twenty-four hundred would burn a little better now . I have about forty bullets checked and lubed with LBT I could try and about fifty checked and lubed with Alox/paste wax .

Anybody got some insight about these Savage 110 rifles and the Lyman 225462 bullets ? I'd like to find a load I can make by the ammo can full using the Dillon So I'm staying away from fillers and such .

Jack

View the original article here

Need bullet mold for 35 Rem w/microgroove barrel

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013LocationMtns of Far Western NCPosts1

Anyone who could give some advice for a good mold for casting 200 +/- grain bullets for a Marlin 35 Rem with microgroove barrel. I know this setup is not well suited for the cast bullet, but know you guys will have some good info. I prefer to use gaschecks and will be both target shooting and maybe whitetail or hogs will be on the menu.

I have shot some 175 gr cast pistol bullets with limited success. Thanks for the help.

Lyman offers this: http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/select-mould-rifle.php?styleRef=cat11#anc

Lyman is the only one I know of specifically, but you can bet if Lyman has one others do too. There's always the custom mold route.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Have you considered the RCBS 200 gr FN ? Seems to be the go-to mold for .35 rem micro grove. I've cast many and have started shooting them. No complaints so far.

The problem we have in our country today is there are more who vote for a living than work for a living !

A wise man's heart is at his right hand, but a fool's heart at his left. Eccl. 10:2

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2011Locationsouthern tier NYSPosts230

I have been using the Lyman mold 358315, with COWW, to some success. I started with the MBC 358/180, and discovered the Marlin liked that boolit. Target only so far.

I would go with the 190 RD. Super blt!
1Shirt!

"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin

"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying

My 336 is conventional groove rifling, but from reading Glen Fryxells work, he says
that sizing to your barrel is critical and apparently most MG bbls take .002 or more
larger than conventional grooves.

Look up his articles on the LA range site, well worth the time.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

My 336 is conventional groove rifling, but from reading Glen Fryxells work, he says
that sizing to your barrel is critical and apparently most MG bbls take .002 or more
larger than conventional grooves and require GCs, so you will be good for that.
The RCBS mold (200 gr) is highly recommended but am still experimenting with a RD
TL design, of which I am slightly skeptical of, not being a fan of TL, but these are dip
lubed, eliminating one of my big dislikes - lube on the front of the boolit. RD closed
down his shop, but some might be available used. THese are 190s but may not
be large enough for your application.

Look up his articles on the LA range site, well worth the time.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Dont believe that MG are not suited to shootin cast. Some gun writers that evidently did not understand started that **** long ago.
I have a 30-39 and a 35 Rem with MG that shoot cast great. Also a couple .22 with MG and they shoot crazy accurate!
Most will tell you that MG needs HARD boolits. I shoot from pure to heat treated WW with success. I size my 30-30 .310 and 35Rem .360 Both shoot anything I have tried in them. I do admit that they are not as easy to find a great load as a Winchester but I believe it is the funky "throat" and not the MG that is the reason.

I have never had leading in either gun. The only limitation I have found is the SWC designs do not feed as slick as a RN design.

ranch Dog designs his molds for Marlin chambers. I have one mold in .380 that I followed his dip lube method with great results.

So shoot the heck out of that Marlin with cast. Make up your own mind about MG.
Jay

"The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen
"It's what we think we know already that often prevents us from learning."
French physiologist Claude Bernard

I've good luck from my 1978 model 336 in 35 Remmy and its a MG barrel. It likes the RCBS and NOE 35-200-FN and the 35 THOR. Now its a real heavy weight for 35 Remmy but it shot (test boolits) really well in my rifle, 2 MOA at 100yds with iron peep sights.
Check it out.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?198778-B-C-360-230-Thor

mine shoots the 200 rcbs rfgc and the lbt 230 rfgc real well.

Just last weekend I shot an informal range session comparing three boolits for my mid-60's 336. I used the 358315, the RCBS 200, and the RD 190, each with three different powders to approx 1700fps. All were plenty accurate enough for deer/hog but the RD 190 easily beat the other two. It wasn't a problem getting under 1 inch at 50 yards (usually, a raggad hole). The RCBS was second and very consistent with the three powders I used. I got the best results with the Lyman boolit using Win 748 (4 in a raggad hole but one flyer, which was more than likely me, to make a 1.4" group) and since that's the mold I have, I'm going to do some more experimenting.
Also, I concur with other's comments that it's BS that Micro-groove bbls aren't suitable for cast. Mine shoots exceptionally well (I size to .359) and have never experienced any leading.
Semper Fi.

RCBS 200 shoots well, never wandered off to others.

I may not post a lot, with the wealth of knowledge here it's better to appear stupid than to open my mouth and prove it. I'll just keep reading and learning.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Collet style bullet puller

“Hornady collet bullet puller” ?? and unwilling to take the chance they are the same, I have both, they are not the same, could be confusing but the collet used by Hornady is for the Cam-Lock bullet puller, I purchased the RCBS Colet bullet puller because the Hornady spent more time waiting for parts than I spent using it. NOW? All I do is talk about owning the Hornady Cam-Lock bullet puller.

The RCBS puller is like a TIMEX.

F. Guffey

View the original article here

Bullet recomendation for Henry .44

A shorter COAL is needed for this lever. My Dad uses the Lee 44-310-RF for the heavy and crimps on the Short COAL. He also uses the NOE 265 design and it's a great boolit too.

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...roducts_id=218

IIRC a .310 nose length design is about as long as the rifle will take.

View the original article here

Bullet length

I've got a Taurus PT 709 Slim that does not like Berrys old style hollow point bullets. It will cycle them if you shorten the COAL to 1.050" (the powder load is reduced of course).

It loves cast 124 grain Round Nose bullets and cycles them great with a COAL of 1.125"

Yes guns are funny.

__________________
David Bachelder
Rookie reloader, but learning fast
Trinity, Texas
I load, 9mm Luger, .40, 38 S&W, .38 Special, .357, .45ACP, .45 Colt, .243 and 30-06

View the original article here

Bullet Length 224 and 308

http://jbmballistics.com/ballistics/lengths/lengths.shtml

0.308 155.0 Palma [2155] (Litz) 1.131
0.308 190.0 MatchKing™ (Litz) 1.353
0.308 200.0 Spitzer Boattail (GameKing) 1.400
0.308 200.0 MatchKing™ (Litz) 1.393

0.224 80.0 MatchKing™ (Litz) 1.066
0.224 80.0 Amax (Litz) 1.162
0.224 75.0 A-Max® 1.105

The last number in each line is bullet length in inches.

Jimro

View the original article here

Bullet lube choices

Boolit Mold Join DateAug 2011Posts13

Being a relative newbee to casting I have experience with only two lubes - LBT Blue and Magma. Of the two, I have found the LBT easier to use in my Star lubesizer (with heater & air).

My question to those of you with years of experience behind you is this ... is there any disadvantage to going with a single lube for all cast bullet use. My limited experience would lead me to chose the LBT.

I am casting primarily for handguns. Currently 9mm, 357 mag, 40 S&W, 44 mag and 45 Colt.

As always, thank you for the input.

Jim

A fella could do worse using only LBT blue . I think the only fault I've ever found with it is rounds left to heat up in a hot barrel sometimes sling lube off in flight . I've found it on two hundred yard targets and I think it caused my shot to go a little astray . Other than that I don't have a problem with it , it let's me get higher velicity that Javalina .

If I was going to stay in the lower velocity realm Javlina and liquid alox have worked pretty well too . I may have a lifetime supply of lube just in the stuff I've got in deals over the years , if there was just one that would cover it all I'd trade it all I think .

Jack

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2011LocationMNPosts240

Try some of RandyRat's TAC#1, its great stuff, I use it on everything from .223 to 45 colt

"The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you can't always be sure of their authenticity.?
- Abraham Lincoln

I haven't been using anything but LBT Blue Soft for more than a year now. Mostly handgun rounds. So far, I have no reason to change it. I have a bunch of sticks of Carnauba Red and even some NRA formula, which works very well, it's just tough in the handling department after it is applied. Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2011Posts476

I went to using 2500+ for pistol and rifle no matter how fast they are pushed.

I got tired of changing from one to another.

Its good lube.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Tough Shot - 3 targets hit with 1 bullet

Check out this awesome video from our friends at Gunwerks: Mike Davidson attempts to hit 3 targets with 1 shot.

Tough Shot - 3 targets hit with 1 bullet - YouTube

Make sure to subscribe to the Gunwerks Youtube channel for more great long shots, tough shots, shooting tips, DIY & Ballistics.

View the original article here

.41 magnum bullet - what happened?

S&W Models 57 and 58

Ruger Blackhawk (SA) and Redhawk (DA), though .41 is not as common in those

Energy is similar to .44, though not quite as high; trajectory is flatter than .44.

The .41 never really achieved popularity because it was marketed to police officers, who were really looking for more of a ".41 Special." If the .41 had been developed around a 200gn bullet at 950-1000fps, it would probably have sold like hotcakes.

But, since it was marketed primarily to LE, and not hunters, it didn't take off like the .44 (marketed to hunters) did. Low quantity of sales led to higher cost of ammo, which made it even less popular - except with handloaders, who often love the .41.

Edit:

Should be fine against black bears; not sure I'd want to use ANY reasonable handgun against a grizzly, but in extremis this might work...

Buffalo Bore heavy .41 Magnum (A: 265gr LWN; B: 230gr Keith; C: 170gr JHP)

Check these velocities taken from real guns.

1. 6.5" Ruger

a. Item #16A - 1379 fps
b. Item #16B - 1459 fps
c. Item #16C - 1640 fps

2. 4" S&W Mountain Gun

a. Item #16A - 1310 fps
b. Item #16B - 1370 fps
c. Item #16C - 1551 fps

Note: Against larger critters, I'd go with the heavier bullets

Last edited by MLeake; Today at 07:45 PM.

View the original article here

Problem with bullet seating using once-fired rifle brass

Hi folks,

I'm just getting started with reloading and have encountered a problem. I have a bunch of once-fired .243 Win brass that I've saved up. I was intending to neck size only. However, the neck opening on these cases is too narrow - bullets don't fit. I'd expect that, having been fired, the bullet should be loose in the neck until it's resized. But it doesn't fit at all. I suspect it may be due to an overly aggressive factory crimp. It's visible as a very slight inward curvature at the opening of the neck.

I suppose I could just seat the bullets without any resizing, but I'm not sure how wise that would be. Otherwise, is there some sort of flaring die I can get to open up the necks and then re-size?

Thanks in advance.

View the original article here

Technique For Having Bullet Touch Rifling

This is the easiest way I've used and/or read about. I learned it here in this forum:

You need: a 48" length of dowel, diameter dependant on caliber, some hot glue, and an individual bullet from each bullet make/type you plan to shoot. Cut the dowel length based on your rifle's barrel length.

- insert a 30" or so length of 3/16", 1/4" or 5/16” dowel into your muzzle;
- close and lock bolt;
- push the dowel against bolt face and hold it there while marking the dowel precisely at the muzzle (use a razor blade);
- now remove the bolt from the receiver;
- take another length of 1/4" dowel, say about 12" long, and hot glue your bullet onto the end;
- insert the dowel/bullet through the action, into the chamber, and against the lands;
- holding pressure against the dowel/bullet, push the other length of dowel, from the muzzle, in until it touches the bullet tip;
- holding it there, make another mark on the long dowel with the razor blade;
- measure between the marks. This is your maximum COL (OAL) for that particular make, weight, and type of bullet.

You can repeat this procedure for each bullet make/type/weight that you plan to reload. Then you can deduct .010, .020, .030, or whatever to come off the lands. It takes about 3 minutes per bullet to get an accurate measurement. I do them all, then mark the inside of the bullet boxes with this maximum COL. Even when I don;t load them even close to that measurement, at least I always know what my maximum is, so when I go to extending the seating depth looking for accuracy, I know how close to the lands I'm getting.

Does this method leave room for a couple of three thousandths error, due to differences in bullet tip? Of course. But I think it's more than accurate enough for load development.

__________________
Stretch ?

"If you are a reloader and you don't know Lee, you don't know Jack" - Floydster

DON'T BE SCARED?

View the original article here

.460 Rowland bullet testing

mine is on a Glock 21SF

Marshall suggested the 265gr bullet and sized them .451" for me. I shot a 1.25" group offhand with it last night. reflex264

View the original article here

varmint nightmare bullet review

Specifically the 20-cal 34gr HPFB.

For those interested in affordable high volume shooting, and were wondering about the Midsouth bullets.
They group amazingly in my Predator, easy to make 5 touch at 100. They seem to be mild mannered in terms of consistency across the velocity range. They just don't quite have the consistent lift of the tipped premium stuff, but it is very close. The only part that can be a little disappointing is on occasion with rock chuck sized critters, there is no show; almost like you fired a fmj. Inspection shows a fur bearing jello mold, so the bullet was perfectly effective; just random failures to launch.
With sage rat/ground squirrel sized critters, there have been none of those random bullet results. Just pieces littering the ground.

For those of us that remember our dear friend Bob, he was a big fan of the 204 for coyotes. I'm not as zealous for that purpose. Headshots with these bullets are devastating however.

View the original article here

Cast Rifle Bullet FPS

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationSt Louis, MOPosts9

I haven't cast for a rifle bullet yet, but have been wanting to get one for my 30-06. From reading about it, it sounds like I'll need to keep velocity to around 2-2200fps at the top end. Is that a general rule for any bullet weight? My thought is a 170g at 2000fps is going to be a little better hunting bullet then a 150g at 2000fps.

Are you running gas check cast? I shoot gas check cast sized .311 out of a 30-06 @ 1600 FPS and the same out of a 300 WM @ 2100 FPS. Both will shoot 1 inch groups at 100 yds. You will have to shoot a range of velocitys and powders and sizes and seating depth to find what will work in your rifle. I have had best luck with IMR SR 4759 powder. The mould I use is a Lyman 311284, 210 gr +/-. Good luck and have fun working up your load.

To get good performance from cast loads from your .30-'06 for hunting you want to have a bullet as heavy as you can stabilize, with as blunt a shape with large meplat as will feed. I have not had good success with roundnosed bullets, and would rather have a soft bullet with a big flat nose at .32-40 blackpowder velocities which will expand and stay together than a harder, streamlined bullet which zips through game with little disturbance.

To get reliable expansion with good weight retention, without the bullet fragmenting and breaking up, you want to limit bullet hardness to about 14 BHN. But if you use a large flatnosed design in which the meplat in a .30 cal. is at least 0.25", then you can use a harder, heat treated bullet which will stand full velocity and it will have good killing power.

This is the bullet I use in my .30-30 Winchester at ballistics approximating the .32-40 Winchester, which is a reliable deer killer at woods ranges.

A bullet of this shape with a gaschecked base, with suitable alloy and lubrication can be driven to about 2000 fps, and would be effective on deer to about 150 yards, with results similar to .30-30 factory loads. A heavier 220-gr. bullet of this general shape would approximate .30-40 Krag energy levels and would be better for larger animals over 100kg.

it's not the top velocity.
however without going through a bunch of measuring, tinkering, measuring, having a custom mold cut, alloy manipulation, brass manipulation, powder re-work, fillers, buffers, primer testing, diameter testing, and another powder work-up.

you are going to be limited in velocity to about 1900 fps.
so you might as well use the heavier boolit

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

To get good performance from cast loads from your .30-'06 for hunting you want to have a bullet as heavy as you can stabilize, with as blunt a shape with large meplat as will feed. I have not had good success with roundnosed bullets, and would rather have a soft bullet with a big flat nose at .32-40 blackpowder velocities which will expand and stay together than a harder, streamlined bullet which zips through game with little disturbance.

To get reliable expansion with good weight retention, without the bullet fragmenting and breaking up, you want to limit bullet hardness to about 14 BHN. But if you use a large flatnosed design in which the meplat in a .30 cal. is at least 0.25", then you can use a harder, heat treated bullet which will stand full velocity and it will have good killing power.

This is the bullet I use in my .30-30 Winchester at ballistics approximating the .32-40 Winchester, which is a reliable deer killer at woods ranges.

A bullet of this shape with a gaschecked base, with suitable alloy and lubrication can be driven to about 2000 fps, and would be effective on deer to about 150 yards, with results similar to .30-30 factory loads. A heavier 220-gr. bullet of this general shape would approximate .30-40 Krag energy levels and would be better for larger animals over 100kg.

Right from the horse's mouth. I also like the heaviest projectile I can put out in a .30 bore. I have pushed 180 gr. up to 2450 with good accuracy (1.5" @100 yards). If my rifle would shoot a 200-220 gr., that is where I would go. Of course I have things in the front yard that can eat me, so that colors my opinion on heavy boolits.

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

I'm pushing the lee 170 gn at 2400 fps. I don't really think its necessary to go that hot, but its working for me. I'm getting 1.5'' groups @100 yds.

Boolit Master Join DateMay 2012LocationRepublic of Texas, District of Round Rock.Posts301

Pressure vs hardness. Reference Lee Second Edition cast bullet hardness table. Gas checking will allow ~+10,000 psi to that tables numbers without any leading.
Go as heavy as you can without loosing accuracy at the range you will be shooting.
I am taking my 143gr 308 cast to 2100fps and getting excellent accuracy and 169gr to 2000fps with excellent results.
I am also a big fan of the flat nose for hunting. It's like using a sledge hammer on them.

Griz44Mag
Christian
NRA member, NRA Range Saftey Officer
TSRA
CHL Instructor
Constitutionalist

Hi Matt, Welcome to CastBoolits.

Velocity isn't necessarily your friend, trying for a bit of extra fps can be counter productive for both accuracy and killing power. You didn't say what you'll be hunting but from MO I'll assume deer. If you use a heavy boolit with a wide flat point at around 1900 fps at reasonable ranges you'll have a bleeding hole on both sides and it doesn't get much better than that.

I don't currently load the 06 but I do the 308 and 30-30 and both do very well with air cooled WW + 2% tin at 1900 fps with 19.0 gr SR 4759 & standard primer. In the 06 a starting charge of about 21 gr SR 4759 would be a good place to start.

Rick

"The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

"Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

One side is for Liberty and the Constitution and they are called domestic terrorist, anti-American, nazi's and mobsters. Just what is the side using these terms for?

NRA Benefactor Life Member
CRPA Life Member

mattd

When you get tired of your accuracy going south at about 1900 - 2000 fps when you're trying to push up to 2200 fps PM and I'll explain why. You can push to higher velocity with some bullet designs though but it takes doing everything just right.

If you want to hunt deer and pigs with cast in your '06 a 170 - 190 gr bullet with a FN and cast soft will be best. It will kill even quicker and better if you lightly HP it with a Forster 1/8" HP tool.

You will find that 1900 - 2000 fps with such a cast bullet is quite sufficient for deer and pigs out to 200 yards.

Larry Gibson

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Bullet Lube

I just wipe mine off. That "residue" will eventually gum up the chamber and make the cases hard to chamber or extract. I use plain old rubbing alcohol on a rag.

RJ

__________________
Keep your powder dry and when you go afield take the kids and please..........wear your seat belts.
I am the ORIGINAL recoil junky, often imitated, but never equalled.
Proud Father of a SoldierMedic in The 82nd Airborne 325thAIR White Falcons
IUOE Local #9

View the original article here

40 gr Nosler bullet ?

histed is right. Don't use that little bullet on deer. If you absolutely have to shoot a deer with a 223, I'd limit the bullet choices to the 60 gr Nosler Partition, the 65 gr Sierra GK, or one of the Barnes TSX bullets (the largest that will stabilize in your rifle).

Immediately following this comment by me will likely be a dozen or more folks foaming at the mouth to tell you that you can use any number of unsuitable bullets if you hit em right in the carotid, or the eye, or the spine, or the scrotum or whatever. All I'm saying is that what I know to be workable is the Nosler Partition. That bullet will do it for ya, if you just have to shoot a deer with that caliber. But you still have to place the bullet carefully. And better to do the shooting in the morning so you'll have good light for tracking. And I'm talking from a half century of deer hunting, so this isn't theory I'm spouting.

View the original article here

Gold bullet ???

Boolit Buddy Join DateMay 2013Posts51

So I've got just a little bit of gold jewelry and was wondering if anyone ever melted it down and made a gold boolit? Could it hurt the mold?

Thanks
skip

Lol, I was just talking to my wife about this the other day, i thought it would be a good way to stash Silver

Melting point of gold is about 2000 degrees - Do no use an aluminum Lee mold to cast your bullet.

An iron mold may hold up for a couple of casts.

Don Verna

Boolit Buddy Join DateMay 2013Posts51

Melting point of gold is about 2000 degrees - Do no use an aluminum Lee mold to cast your bullet.

An iron mold may hold up for a couple of casts.

Don Verna

OK, I'm out on that deal. Thanks for the info, I had no idea it would be that much hotter than lead....WOW! ! !

If you really want a gold boolit, cast one from parafin and take it to a
REAL jeweler, not some bozo jewelry salesman. They can make a "lost
wax casting" using the parafin boolit, altho they MIGHT need it made
from his particular wax. In any case, they are set up to do fine quality
casting of gold and silver, but the need a wax original. I have never
tried to cast wax in a boolit mold, but it should be doable.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Buddy Join DateMay 2013Posts51

Thanks Bill, I actually know a guy that used to have a jewelry business. Says he's still got all the tools, I'll give him a call. I just think it would be cool to have sitting in the reloading room.

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2008Locationcoastal north carolinaPosts892

With the price of gold around 1500 dollars an oz, probably better to have it in a safe.

Skip,
If you can't find a jeweler that will make one, talk to a dental lab. They would have all the things needed to make a casting from a wax pattern.
Jeff

Before you criticize another man, you should walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you criticize him, you'll be a mile away from him, . . . and you'll have his shoes.

Thanks Bill, I actually know a guy that used to have a jewelry business. Says he's still got all the tools, I'll give him a call. I just think it would be cool to have sitting in the reloading room.If done please post a picture

Gold is pretty and all, but, maybe it's just me. I think I'd go with silver boolits...............

Shawn

John 3: 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

"I am a man of peace, but if war comes to my door it will find me home."

Winston Churchill

After buying a bunch of lead, I don't think I can afford any silver. Neat site!!! When funds permit, I think I'll get a few, once they get the .22!!!!

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here