which powder measure ?

I have the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 and it works very well. I have never seen or used the Hornady so ..... no comment. __________________
David Bachelder
Rookie reloader, but learning fast
Trinity, Texas
I load, 9mm Luger, .40, 38 S&W, .38 Special, .357, .45ACP, .45 Colt, .243 and 30-06

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which. 38 or.380 ammo

Are you wanting to know about a 38 or a 380?? They are different. A 38 cartridge , What 38 , a 38special that will be used in a revolver!! Should be no issues.

A 380acp that will work in a pistol can depend on the handgun used then the ammo brand and maybe the lot number or bullet type as in fmj and hollow point design weight and make.

Its trail and error and assume there are no guarantees any one brand of ammo will allways work in any semi-auto pistol.

Some pistols like a walther ppk can be rather picky about what it likes yet a bersa thunder that's designed after the walther may work well with most any brand you try in it.

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Which Dash Number Smith & Wesson Model 29 To Look For?

Pinned and recessed cylinders are highly desirable. Model 29s or 29-2s
Back in the early 80s and before they came with a beautiful mahogany box.

IMHO, The older N frame Smiths were absolutely the finest double action revolvers in the world. Quality, fit, and finish is exceptional.
Consider the hand fitting of the past vs todays CNC technology.

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Which .45acp Xdm or Glock or??????

I'd definitely go with the Glock 30sf, 30s, or 36. In that order.

Parts are always available and with a gun for CCW that you should be training extensively with, you're going to need part eventually. Glock's are the easiest parts to come across. Both factory and aftermarket. (I recommend factory)

1911's have nothing "drop-in" and I think they're amazing range guns in this modern time. Those to carry them, are probably great tinkerers or have no problems with them being high maintenance.

XD's? I do not like for the life of me. PM for more details if you'd like.

__________________
Sáncte Míchael Archángele, defénde nos in proélio, cóntra nequítiam et insídias diáboli ésto præsídium. Ímperet ílli Déus, súpplices deprecámur: tuque, prínceps milítiæ cæléstis, Sátanam aliósque spíritus malígnos, qui ad perditiónem animárum pervagántur in múndo, divína virtúte, in inférnum detrúde. Ámen

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Which S&W is closest to my Astra 680

Speed strips are slower than speed loaders, but are both more versatile (a .38/.357 speed strip will feed or partially feed any swing-out or top-break .38/.357 revolver) and easier to conceal (a pair of 6-rd .38/.357 speed strips will fit in an empty altoids box).

Not a bad suggestion, Mike.

But 22 Euro is, I believe, about $30, so the speed-loaders are not that big a gamble.

Edit: "partially feed" referred to the 686+ (7rds) and the 8 shot N frames, since I have only seen speed strips in 6-rd configuration.

I don't think they would work well with a loading gate, but my Vaquero is a .45 colt and I don't have any .45 strips with which to test the theory.

Second edit: Can't easily watch the video due to limited bandwidth in current location, so I don't know if it shows this, but a faster way to use strips is to align and feed rounds in pairs, two at a time.

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Smith & Wesson Or Colt - Which Is More Aesthetically Pleasing To You?

Which is more pleasing to the eye to you folks, Smith & Wesson or Colt double action revolvers?

For me it is Smith & Wesson by a huge margin. I just can't warm up to Colt. I've owned three Colts and....nothing. No warm fuzzy feeling....nothing. I sold them and moved on. If you set a model 27 next to a Python I'll drool all over the 27. I'll then look at the Colt and wonder what the heck is wrong with those ugly factory grips and why is that vent rib rubbing me the wrong way. I know grips can be changed, but the Smiths just capture my attention every time.

Now, my 1974 Colt 1911 with the beautiful blue slide is another story.

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Which Handgun

Cheap, good compromise between SD and trail??

I like the S&W 13, 19, 65, 66, 38/357mag in a 4" barrel

Or, Charter Arms 5 shot 2.5" barrel 44 special

Both would be my choices. I might have to restart my Charter Arms search!

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So...assuming IL isn't going to appeal to the Supremes, which carry case goes there?

So...assuming IL isn't going to appeal to the Supremes, which carry case goes there? Title says it all...we don't even have the initial ruling from Palmer, so...what's in the pipeline?

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Newbie desire.. which lever action rifle?

Yesterday, 07:57 AM .

Welcome to the forum, TBar !

The only place to find a used Model 92, besides in an LGS near you, would be at a funshow or online ( in a forum classifieds ad or a gun sale or auction website like gunbroker or gunsamerica).

You're going to find that most owners selling original Winchester 1892/92's are quite proud of them, and their prices reflect it (high).
Expect to pay $700-800 for a shooter, up to $2500 or more for a pristine collectible specimen.

Most shooter's find the South Americam made Rossi Model 92 a very acceptable substitute @ $500 (new), and "whatever" for a used example.
.357's seem to bring more $$ than the .44's & .45's; all are available in 16" barreled Carbines.
The Rossi's are not as smooth as an original Winchester, but with a little love applied can be made so.

A bit more costlier (2x) are the same M92 Puma rifle, made in Italy by Chiappa (lately).

Much more nicely fit & finished, however, (IF you can find one) are the discontinued Japanese-made (Miroku) 20" bbl'd Browning B92's ( .357 or .44Mag) - basically the same rifle & maker as the current "Winchesters". (about $700, +/-, in good condition)

.

__________________
Feed a starving man a fish & he will eat for a day - Teach the man how to fish & he will never starve again. Last edited by Rangr44; Yesterday at 08:01 AM. Yesterday, 02:58 PM Originally Posted by hunter1 Welcome to the forum. I have a love for lever guns also. I started off 50yrs ago with a Win 94 my uncle had, Learned to shoot with it. My dad bougth me a Marlin 336 in 30/30, I hunted for 20 yrs with her. I like the marlins better than the winchesters because they have an actual bolt and side ejection, bore sighting is made easy by removing the bolt and also for cleaning.The new wins are pricey for what you get. If i wanted a 94 ,i would go with a nice condition used one in 30/30/ On the other hand the marlins you can go new, I have them in 30/30/ , 45/70. New win will cost you about 1200 , 1300 dollers. They are not made by winchester. Marlins will run about $400. to $700, and they have more modles to choose from.
Welcome! I have handled a lot of recent Remlins, I mean Marlingtons, including several that were shipped very recently and I wouldn't have one as a gift - honestly. If you prefer a real Marlin, look for them used - the .30-30, .32 and .35 Rem 336s are still very easy to find used and very affordable - and the quality is THERE.

If you're really interested in a 92, the Rossis are very affordable and very inconsistent - if you are an educated buyer and can pick from several that you can handle in person, you can do extremely well, but I would not buy one sight unseen.

Today, 06:03 AM Originally Posted by JNewell Welcome! I have handled a lot of recent Remlins, I mean Marlingtons, including several that were shipped very recently and I wouldn't have one as a gift - honestly. If you prefer a real Marlin, look for them used - the .30-30, .32 and .35 Rem 336s are still very easy to find used and very affordable - and the quality is THERE.

If you're really interested in a 92, the Rossis are very affordable and very inconsistent - if you are an educated buyer and can pick from several that you can handle in person, you can do extremely well, but I would not buy one sight unseen.

I agree with you, All my Marlins are real Marlins, built by Marlin. I would deffinatly look for an ; lets say a pree 2007 one. I think they sold or merged with Remi at that time. A friend of mine just bought a a 336 in 35 rem for $250.00 , great buy rifle was like new condition.




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Which Savage to "Build" Off Of?

Hit up your local LGS or pawn shop, even GB if you can find a "deal" for any long action Savage or Stevens.

As long as the action and bolt are in good shape, the worst the rest (stock, barrel) looks, the better...price wise for you.

Even if the ones you see are good condition, sell off the barrel, maybe even the stock for a few bucks.

Then pick up the aftermarket barrel and stock of your choice.

I bought a 7-08 used for $300, sold the barrel for $60... (and kept it 7-08).

You can also buy new actions from Northland Shooters Supply.

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which ambi safety?

what is the question? do you need a safety made for a SIG 1911 or a regular 1911 safety that feels like the SIG one? I am guessing the just a plain 1911 safety? there are all sorts online. I'll check what that one looks like and get back to u.

http://www.brownells.com/items/1911-ambi-safety.aspx

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Which Diameter To Size?

A while back I bought a Lee C312-185-1R (advertised as for the 303 Brit) mold to use for my 303s and a 30-40, and I cast a batch but haven't sized them yet. Yesterday I miked them and they are sure enough .312" (they weigh ~180 gr, I cast them fairly hard), and that raises questions in my mind: since 303s are almost =/> than .313", what's the deal? They are GC design, so is that supposed to keep leading down and make everything o.k.? I haven't cast a whole lot lately, and my interest was just getting back up to the "doing" point, but now I'm aggravated. And should I size them to .310 or .311 for the Krag, or just run them through a .312 sizer to lube them & seat the GC and see what happens? I think I'm answering my own question, but I would really appreciate your input...
Thanks,
George J.

Maj, USAF (ret)
Member, SCV
Life Member VFW, DAV, TSRA and MOAA
Benefactor Member, NRA

"A good plan, violently executed today, is better than a perfect plan executed next week."
- Gen George S. Patton

The Krag rifle has a long and quite large throat. Shoot those bullets as fat as you can. I have three Krags and shoot .314 bullet in them all, regardless of barrel groove diameter. Seat the bullet just deep enough to feed through the magazine.

Use gas checks and a good quality lube. 16 grains of 2400 will make you very happy. The diameter of the cast bullet will vary with the alloy used, so .312 may not be the final word with that mold.

Last edited by Char-Gar; 05-03-2013 at 03:46 PM.

Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2011LocationSouth East OhioPosts2

I came over here today to find the answer to the exact same question. I bought the same mold last month and am just now getting ready to use it.

It's relatively easy to open a Lee mould a thousandth using an abrasive (I use fine valve grinding compound) and drill the center for a screw to spin the boolit with a drill run slow. I cut the head off the screw and don't drill very deep to keep the screw from driving through and marring the mould, learned the hard way. I have opened some two thou. but if you go much further they tend to get out of round. Opening a size die is also easily done using a split dowel and emery cloth.

Rule of thumb with rifles is .002 or .003 larger than groove diam of
the barrel. Either try what you have or slug the bbl and set your diam
by the rule of thumb.

Look up "beagling" - a way to increase the casting diam of boolits by
simple, reversible addition to the molds (aluminum tape between the
faces)

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

can't believe we got all the way to post #6 to say this.
you got a couple of choices.
try em and see.
or measure the gun.
303's run from 308 through 318

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I'll just run them through my 312 sizer, lube & seat the GC & see how it goes. Long time ago when I started all this, I bought a .357 sizer for 38s, and it always worked fine. When I realized what I'd done, I bought a .358, and it worked fine...

Maj, USAF (ret)
Member, SCV
Life Member VFW, DAV, TSRA and MOAA
Benefactor Member, NRA

"A good plan, violently executed today, is better than a perfect plan executed next week."
- Gen George S. Patton

Trying different sizes/dia boolits to find the most accurate is to me, about half the fun of reloading (most of the time-with most boolits). Same holds true to me of trying different lubes.
1Shirt!

"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin

"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying

Maj, USAF (ret)
Member, SCV
Life Member VFW, DAV, TSRA and MOAA
Benefactor Member, NRA

"A good plan, violently executed today, is better than a perfect plan executed next week."
- Gen George S. Patton

you can't size them up. [you can swage them bigger though]
you can seat the gas check and lube them in a larger sizer.
we are playing with .001's here.
and sometimes that much neck tension, or boolit diameter, is all it takes to bring things back around.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

"Half of bein' smart is knowin' what ya' don't know."
Robert P. Mizell

FLOYD FILES

Boolit Master Join DateOct 2010LocationVT, that Green Mountain StatePosts574

I'm gonna guess they'll be fine as cast for the .303, apply the GC with a .314" sizer die and shoot 'em. That's what I do with my Nagants. Can't speak for the Krag. Been having a little trouble finding GCs for that bullet. Have to hammer on Hornady .30 cals before sizing. Big shank, measures over .290"

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9mm mold, which one?

Boolit Bub Join DateNov 2012LocationCentral VirginiaPosts49

I'm looking for 9mm mold in the 115-124gr range. I like RCBS and have handles for them but I guess a Lyman 2 hole mold would also work. Any suggestions for bullet types? (round nose, TC, etc.) The rounds will likely be used in a Berretta 92 or SIG 225.

If you are liking RCBS I would go that route. Lyman molds are spotty with their current quality control and getting a mold to drop as advertised or larger has not been one of Lyman's finer selling point these days. I personally like TC or RF designs but that is just me.

Boolit Buddy Join DateJan 2013LocationRapid City, SDPosts64

Try and buy a few from someone to test out to see if your gun likes them. This is the current process I'm doing before I buy a mold that might not work with my gun. Make sure the size works so you aren't leading and that your gun will cycle them reliably.

I have a 225 that loves the Lee 125gr. TC nose, regular loob groove, 6 cavity.
The 2 cavity is a bit iffy on what diameter it's going to cast.
I use ww with a touch of tin. Works great when sized to .358"

CPL Lou

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2012Posts6

i recomend the accurate mold. you will be very happy with it and they cast great. imy 2 i like better than even my rcbs,lyman, saeco's.

Boolit Bub Join DateNov 2012LocationCentral VirginiaPosts49

Thanks for the input. Currently there seems to be a shortage of anything related to ammunition, including bullet molds. I'm not familiar with Accurate Molds but I like the design. I've never had a brass mold, any advantage over iron?
The TC nose seems to be popular, I've seen it used in .40 S&W but not 9mm.

I have been satisfied with Lee 358105 SWC and a RCBS 115 RN lately for my 9mm S&W Shield. I was on a roll the past few days and poured about 200 of each as I was getting low on my available stash of these boolits. I feel better already! Joe

The rules of casting specifically state " you can not have just one mould " you need to get at least two or three.
You don't have to buy them all at once...so your question should read " which mould should I try first "
And if you are going to cast, then get a sizer and make them the size you need...depending on as cast diameters is sometimes a hit or miss thing . I have been shooting Lyman's # 358345 a semi-wadcutter, 115 grain sized to .357 in my Walther P38 and a Taurus PT92 for years with great results. The truncated cone , Lyman #356402 is my choice in the 120 grain weight, also sized .357 dia.

Gary

I just ordered a 4 cav Lyman 356402 from Midsouth.
They have the 2 cavity in stock.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000152660402

I have loaded the Lee 125 rnfp 38 special bullet, and that also
worked well for me in a Hi-Power sized to .358.

I just wanted to try this new Lyman, and have had good luck
with a recently purchased 4 cav mould for 44 special.

I have loaded the Lee 125 rnfp 38 special bullet, and that also
worked well for me in a Hi-Power sized to .358.This one is a good one too.

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Which press?

I'm a major noob, so take it easy.

I'm gathering the pieces now to Swage 22 center fire bullets with a reloading press.

It occurred to me that I'm going to want to expand into specialty heavy bullets in 30 to 510 caliber.

I have the impression my rcbs RC II will run out of capability with the big stuff.

What press is logical? Walnut Hill? Aneat's plans? Hydro upgrade to Aneat's plans?

I can't afford a commercial hydro machine, but I think I could make one.

Any plans outside of Aneat's?

Spend the coin and get the Walnut Hill. A very well made press that won't disappoint. Do it once, and do it right. When you do get a Walnut Hill, after using a regular reloading press, you'll wonder why you ever waisted your time.

"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin

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Which "Accurate" Mold for my .300 Blackout?

What do you plan to fire them from? AR? Bolt gun? Handi Rifle?

I can't remember the mold number, but my dad has an accurate mold he uses for a .30-06 bolt action. I made some .300 dummies of that 175is grain boolit and couldn't get them to feed in my AR.

I haven't modified my feed ramps, but I see online where some have to accommodate a wider meplat boolit.

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which mold for 7.62 x 39?

Our son wants me to cast some boolits for his SKS. Does nyone here cast for this? what mold would you suggest using?

I did a few years ago. I never got stellar accuracy, but it was minute of paper plate at 100 yards with the lee 155 gr 312r bullet sized and gc to .312. I cant remember what powder I was using though.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2012LocationSaskatchewan CanadaPosts248

Lee 155 with 16 grains of 2400 shoots much better than surplus in my rifle. Much much better. Careful on that powder charge though, it is needed for mine to function but start at 14.5 and work up until your guns functions.

Lee 155 with 2400 is my favorite.

Yup I found my old load data for the sks and I was using 2400

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which boolit matches speer 458 400 gr bullet best?

hello, I have shot the speer 458d 400 gr fn thru our 45-70's, 450 marlins, and other 458's with great success. now I am looking to get a mold to cast for the same guns and thought the same design would be a good way to start. the rcbs 458 405fn boolit seems to be the closest match, so far. anyone have any suggestions of what else to look at? thanks jim

lee c309-150f, lee 358-158rf, lee c430-310rf, tc 50rb, noe 311041, noe 311291, noe 358009, noe 358318, noe 360180wfn and still collecting

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2011LocationMontana USAPosts13

hello, I have shot the speer 458d 400 gr fn thru our 45-70's, 450 marlins, and other 458's with great success. now I am looking to get a mold to cast for the same guns and thought the same design would be a good way to start. the rcbs 458 405fn boolit seems to be the closest match, so far. anyone have any suggestions of what else to look at? thanks jimI agree that the RCBS design looks darn close and worth a try. However, you should take a look at NOE molds. I don't see a 400 grain but see a 350 gr. listed. Some time back I pm'd him about a 405 grain and he came up with one, one great shootin' boolit. His molds are works of art

Pretty much any bullet in the 400 to 425 gr range will do. Avoid the Lee 405 hollow base, it may not handle the upper end velocities if you want them.
I have never heard someone say the 405 RCBS did poorly for them. I don't own one, have never shot hem, but would but one if I needed some thing in that range.

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Which ingot shape?

Voters13. You may not vote on this poll Boolit Man Join DateFeb 2013LocationMissouriPosts84

These are the types of ingots I can make. Either will fit in my RCBS Pro Melt (the reason I'm too broke to buy a regular ingot mold). What do you guys think will be more convenient in the long run?

Either. Both if you increase your smelting.
Pack some up in a SFRB and offer to swap for an ingot mold. Someone will have an extra. Or buy one for you.

Boolit Bub Join DateJan 2011LocationNE KansasPosts34

I prefer the muffin mold because you can pour them as thick as you like. Thin for winter use to feed the pot without causeing a large drop in melt temp. Thick for quickly filling the pot at start up. I also like to stack the biscuits in one gallon paint cans for storage after blending. The wedge ingots would likely fit fine in a white 5 gallon bucket for bulk storage if you wanted to do that as well. Goodwill Stores and the like are great places to look for these items. Good luck. Dusty

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationMichiganPosts87

I like the muffin molds myself. Seem easier to store.

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2011LocationNorthwest MontanaPosts194

I say use the wedge shape as your primary and the muffins as secondary. I have 4 of the cast iron wedge pans that I use in rotation when smelting. By the time my last one is filled, the 1st one is ready to dump out. They are hassle free when making the ingots, stack nice (alternate points in and out or in a circle in a bucket), weigh in at about 2 pounds each, and will fit most any casting pot. The only muffin pans I use are the mini cast iron muffin pans. Cast iron is hassle free and a pleasure to use. I find that regular muffin pans are a pain to deal with. Too many issues!

Shad

I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!

triangles stack better structurally and more densely.
I didn't vote.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Make them out of angle iron stock,they stack better

Horace

Well, if you had a cannon with the same bore diameter as your muffin tin. . .

Truthfully, round bugs me. Round plates, round glasses, round beer bottles - all wasting lots of space in square cabinets and square refrigerators. You'll be "storing" a lot of air between your round ingots.

WWJMBD?

I like my science WEIRD.

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Which Scope???

I don't know why I'm answering this. I have no help to offer.
That is a tough choice.

Either way, you should be good until it's it's way too dark for deer hunting. You could lose the reticle on the Zeiss while you could still the deer, so I'd go with the illuminated dot on the Leupold. I think.

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Which Mold for 1911: HG34 or HG68

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2013Posts79

which boolit design do you prefer for the 1911: HG34 RN or HG68 TC? (regardless of mold maker, design only!)

NOE HG 34 RN Clone

Accurate HG 68 TC Clone

Last edited by Cane_man; Yesterday at 04:19 PM.

I use both. The #34RN weighs approx 230 grains an duplicates the GI ball ammo. It can shoot accurately, but leaves a ragged hole in the target which is sometimes hard to score. The #68 is a semi-wad cutter that also feeds well. Its in the 185-200 grain range weight-wise and cuts neat holes in the target which are easier to score if you are shooting BE/comp. Its simply a matter of your personal choice/preference and/or what your gun likes. LLS

That Accurate design is not an H&G 68 clone. This is an H&G 68:

Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2013LocationMichiganPosts22

The 230Gn round nose shoots better, and loads better. Mine are in Lyman dies.

My totally stock Springfield Armory Milspec liked the SAECO #69 flat base 200 grain wadcutter over 4.0 grains of Bullseye (similar design to HG68). First five shots I fired with it at 50 feet, rested, went into a ragged hole about the size of a quarter.

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/16893

Last edited by catboat; Yesterday at 06:53 PM. Reason: link added

The picture you posted is NOT an H&G 68. The mold pic by imashooter2
is a H&G 68 design, altho there are BB variants, too. Std boolit is 200,
not a TC. My mold is a flat base, but I have used a LOT of BB commercial
versions.

H&G 68 is THE boolit for the 1911 platform in .45 ACP. Absolutely reliable feeder, one
of the most accurate boolits, cuts great holes in targets. What is not to like? I have shot
several hundreds of thousands of them over the last 33 years. Strongly recommend
the design.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2011LocationBredasdorp South AfricaPosts70

I totally agree with MtGun44, the H&G 68 or clone works 100% in a 1911 type pistol, the 230gr RN works better in 2011 type, since you have to make them shorter to work reliable in these pistols.

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