Lyman 465451

Interesting mold. Maybe someone knows something about it. Haven't cast with it yet so cant give you the diameter specs and the throw weight although its listed at 488 grains at the Three Peaks website.... The Lyman Handbook of Cast Bullets lists it as "You name it, we've got it (.454 first band, .465 2nd band, .447 two rear bands.) The base looks quite similar to the Lyman 557489 which is the Sharps Carbine boolit where the powder charge bag is tied onto the base of the boolit.

Could this be for a .45 caliber breechloading rifle? Whitworth perhaps? I'm sorta stumped.

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310gn lyman .44 loads?

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013LocationWestland, New ZealandPosts1

Hi fellas,I have visited your site off and on picking up helpfull hints,and this is my first post.I do all my hunting in the mountains of NZ and have recently bought a little rossi.44 mag with a 16" barell,hoping it would be good in the thick bush we hunt in here.Well it is,only problem is the 300gn XTP's I loaded up are too soft! I shot a red stag and a bull tahr(mountain goat size) recently.Both were within 30m and the xtp's didnt hold together,especially on the tahr which the shoulder bone stopped completely.A .243 wouldve been better! I cast myself up some 310gn lyman bullets from wheel weights and have gas checks fitted and alox coated.I have IMR 2205 powder-same as 4227 I think. Does anyone have some good loads for these bullets? Thanks,Mike.

I see you are new, welcome.
You are shooting the 300 XTP too fast. Lyman does not make a 310 gr, is it the Lee? I shoot the Lee 310 with 21.5 gr of 296 and a Fed 150 primer out of my 10" barrel for 1316 fps. Nothing will stop it!
Dump the Alox, use a good lube like Felix.
Don't look for velocity, look for accuracy first.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman 450 Luber sizer. Question

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2009LocationArizonaPosts770

I bought a used 450 at the park and swap a couple of weeks ago got a really good deal I think $20.00. The shaft was bent and the whole thing was really kruddy It cleaned up nicely. I ordered a new pressure screw assembly and got it yesterday. In the parts assembly on the shaft there is a nylon bushing, my question is what function does it have? I called Lyman and the service department said I don't need to use it. I am wounder though does it help in any way to use it?

On the shaft above the piston? What is the diameter of this bushing? None of mine have this. All that is in mine is the piston with two O rings on it.
Jay

"The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen
"It's what we think we know already that often prevents us from learning."
French physiologist Claude Bernard

The first result here is a .pdf for the manual which includes a parts schematic. It shows exactly what mine has ... two O-rings. I'd say the "spacer" is some kind of packaging stabilizer ring or similar to prevent parts loss.

https://www.google.com/search?q=lyman+4500+manual&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:eek:fficial&client=firefox-a

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2009LocationArizonaPosts770

The bushing is about 5/8" in diameter and about 1" long and located under the pressure washer. The hole in the center is a couple of thousands larger than the threaded shaft so it slides up and down with little drag. It was packed in a loose plastic bag inside a shipping envelope so I don't think it was for stablizing. I will probably end up not using it as it takes up a little space in the lube reservoir.

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2009LocationArizonaPosts770

Well dah! I found it on the Lyman web site. It is called a Nylon piston stop coller. It is shown being used on the 4500 but not the 450. I think it is to prevent over tightening the pressure washer when the luber runs out of lube. I probably "will" use it as a safety measure.

Wish I could find a Lyman 450 for 20 bucks....

The parts diagram for the 4500 shows that as the piston stop collar. It is not shown on the parts diagram for the 450. I serves to prevent the piston from coming off the threaded portion of the pressure screw. Perhaps someone can post pictures showing the difference between the 450 and the 4500 in this regard.

If you get your shots in the black, the 10s and Xs will take care of themselves.

Wish I could find a Lyman 450 for 20 bucks....They are out there; I got a gray one at a gun show for $20.00, missing the lube piston. I also bought one of the orange ones that had the handle upgrade and heater at an estate auction for $7.50.

I think the key is that no one else knows what it is.

Robert

Boolit Man Join DateOct 2009Posts130

That is an excellent little part as it prevents the pistol from coming off the pressure screw . Without it it can be almost impossible to get the pistol out of the machine.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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problems lubing .223-55gr with Lyman 45

i am fairly new using this Lyman 45, and i had some problems lubing some 0.223 boolits...

had a heck of a time getting the groove to lube up, lube would come out of the bottom of the 45, come underneath the bullet when i pushed it out, and all sorts of problems... seemed real finicky about getting the exact boolit depth...

here are the particulars: RCBS sizing die 0.225 with one row of holes, using Carnuba Red, and this particular boolit is a NOE 55gr 0.225 that has one lube groove

seemed like to get the lube groove lined up with the row of holes in the sizer the nose of the boolit had to be approximately 3/8" below the top of the die!

is this normal, or what am i doing wrong?

once i pushed the nose down inside the die, and got the groove lined up with the holes in the die it would lube up with no problems so long as i didn't over tighten the pressure nut

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Lyman 4500 lube heater question

I just received the heater for my brandy new Lyman 4500, and a question has arisen. Can this thing be run with a dimmer switch to control the heat? Or, is this either a bad idea or not needed?

I have heard of people doing it. I myself use a heater on my 450 but it isn't the conventionals style and I just plug ut in and let it warm up then unplug and go until I just notice a change and replug and rewarm it. The biggest thing about the dimmer is to make sure it is in the required watts range I believe.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

A lot of folks were using Harbor Frieght router speed controllers instead of building the dimmer switch boxes.

A lot of folks were using Harbor Frieght router speed controllers instead of building the dimmer switch boxes.Really!?! I've got an MLCS router speed control box that has been sitting unused for years, and since I bought a Festool router, I doubt it will ever see use in the shop again. I almost threw it out a few months ago, but decided not to.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman 358665

Boolit Bub Join DateJun 2011LocationSE TexasPosts32

I am looking at buying this mold. I will be loading it for a Marlin 1894C and 2 S & W 586 revolvers. What say you.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Another bad Lyman mold

I borrowed a 311410 two banger from a friend. I'm sure it's rather old as it's not a plain base but a radiused base. He told me he'd never used it.

I ran off about ten pounds of the dern things today only to discover the as cast on one cavity is .311 and the other one is .307. That's the third Lyman mold I've run into that's bad. I'm 'bout done with Lyman.

Now I'm in the process of going through all these boolits with a caliper trying to salvage the good half that I made today. Dang thing's too big for a fishin' sinker and too small for a boat anchor.

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Long nose Lyman 452374?

I'm looking at this mold on eBay http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=321112063362&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=21733780091

It says and the picture says its a 452374 AV ... Looks awful long to me ... Is it "normal" I know lyman has quite a it of variance over the years with the same mold numbers ...

I'm looking to feed it to my 1911 ... Now, don't all bid on it!

Shawn

John 3: 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

"I am a man of peace, but if war comes to my door it will find me home."

Winston Churchill

You can buy it new from Lyman for $115. if you search the web you can find them new for even less

It may be the camera angle.

And no, I won't bid!

Cat

Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I'm armed.)

There was the older model mold that was a shorter over all length and now the current design.

I prefer the older design as the newer ones often times do not have a full boolit diameter above the lube groove i.e. base band at .452" and above the lube groove .450".

They both shoot about the same as long as you can find a new mold to drop at .452 or larger for the base band and front drive band (above the lube groove).

The old design is more correct in terms of matching the FMJ "ball" profile. I have one of the old ones. According to Lyman (Ideal at the time) it was designed by Lincoln Riley of Wisner, Nebraska many years ago.

I looked him up and he was a physician of some note. Made a good design. Lyman appears to have gone off on a tangent and screwed it up some. Maybe Lincoln is spinning in his grave.

The old design is more correct in terms of matching the FMJ "ball" profile.Yep..........correct.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Case trimming - Lyman v. Lee manuals

With pistol loads I never load hot enough to have them stretch out enough to warrant trimming. (with the exception of some 44mag and 357mag loads...)

For me trimming (for handgun) is a waste of time and not worth it. I don't see the point. unless your crimps start to get out of whack.

I don't need 5 shots touching eachother at 30 yards. I just need a decent sized group.

If Extreme accuracy is my goal, I'll trim. But otherwise I skip it.

I do trim (as needed) every rifle case though.

Ike

Last edited by BigTex308; Today at 12:58 AM.

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Lyman 31950

I found a lyman 311440 in a online auction a few weeks back and was lucky enough to get it, but a Lyman 31950 came with it and im not sure what to use it for. I posted it for trade in the swap section but no interest yet so I guess ill have to find a use for it. It cast out at 105grs and .327-.329 and I'm not sure what it would be good for. Does anybody have any ideas.

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman 429 250 Devastator/Lee 430310 RNF

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman 454612 mold ?

280 grains with WW +2% Sn.

Jerry

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Lyman 457122 Gould HP mold, new, and on its way. Have a few questions...

I purchased a 457122 mold the other day, well 2 of them actually. They are new production from Lyman. I will probably cast a few test boolits with each and see what the results are. If one casts larger and more consistent, that's the one I'll keep. I expect them to be the same, but you never know.

I noticed on a couple of photographs that this mold is bevel base. My 38 wadcutter mold is bevel base and sometimes a pain to lube boolits. Is this a problem or inconvenience with the Gould Mold?

I have cast HP boolits with NOE molds, and don't foresee any issues with the single cavity Lyman mold. For those that have the 457122, do you have any tips or advice for use with this mold?

I hope to get boolits at .459", but that may be optimistic. I may consider lapping the mold to .460". Is there anything special or specifice I need to be aware of?

I will be shooting this in a Marlin 1895 cowboy. I haven't slugged it yet. Need to but haven't gotten around to it. Most information I can find is that .458" boolits are marginal and .459" work pretty good, but the .460"s work the best. Again, until I give them a try, I won't know. I plan to use a 50/50 wheel weight/pure lead mix with 2% tin and not push them too hard. If that doesn't work I will increase the wheel weight percentage some and try again.

I appreciate any input regarding this mold and/or lyman hollow point molds in general. BTW I have a pair of lyman handles but don't know if they'll work on this mold. I'll try to post a pic. Anyone that knows, please chime in.

Brad

1. Keep the pin hot, I rigged a wire holder to keep the pin in the flame of a propane torch while it was out of the blocks.

2. Pull the pin before cutting the sprue. It is a real pain to get the HP pin out when the boolit spins in the blocks.

3. What you need are the Large Lyman handles, meant for double cavity molds.

Hope this helps,

Robert

The Lyman molds i've got in this number are flat base with no bevel. Lyman has produced both flat and bevel bases in some of their 45 rifle molds before though. The HP pin is usually set deep in the nose on these. It depends on what level load your wanting on how deep the pin needs to be also. You can water drop that alloy with this and have a fine deer boolit as is with the deep pin at 1300 to 1400 fps. If you want faster, not over half the pin should be in the nose (you would have to shorten it) if you don't want it to blow up.

45 2.1

Knowledge without understanding is a dangerous thing. For a little knowledge entices us to walk its path, a bit more provides the foundation on which we take our stand, and a sufficient amount can erect a wall of knowledge around us, trapping us in our own ignorance.

Never sleep, never die

Knowledge is easy to get, but worthless if you never use it. However the info is free, so the only person you have to blame is yourself if you chose not to use the information.

Thank you, Robert and 45 2.1. I still need to get the pic of the mold handles uploaded. They do fit a lyman 454 round ball 2 cavity mold, but are a little large(wide) for a 445599 single cavity hollow base minie ball mold. I'm hoping that they fit the 457122. If not, I'll need to buy new ones or trade the mold handles.

Thanks again, Brad

Looks like the gap is about 1" when parallel.

Boolit Bub Join DateOct 2011LocationMississippi, USAPosts43

In my limited experience the 457122 Gould is an excellent game boolit. I have used the flat base version in 20 to 1 alloy in my 45-70 at just over 1300 fps to cleanly take 2 deer last season. One doe was shot at 30 yards and another at 75 yards. Both were behind the shoulder broad side shots and they both never took a step. I got little to no meat damage. The Gould is my go to boolit in 45-70.

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman 457122 Tree Penetration Testing

I had to shoot a few rounds on Friday to ward off a bad case of cabin fever. I loaded up these 330 gr. hollow points and a few 405 gr. fp.
I used the lowest starting Trapdoor data with Varget.

I was following the boolit trails in the snow to see if I could find any, and came upon this tree. Being a new caster, I have never hunted deer with anything other than full-length gas checked bullets. After looking at the tree, I am convinced that even this tiny boolit, just barely truckin' along, would take care of any whitetail I would ever encounter.

Winter is back.
Regards,
Jeff

It takes some special perspective to make a 330 grain pill "tiny"!

I bet it will suit you well, though. Those are pretty boolits.

I shot a small tree down once. You're on your way to real firewood.

your 405 gr load matches the ballistics that millions of buffalo had an issue with a hundred sumthin years ago.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Until you actually kill an animal with one of your boolits, its hard to believe that they would work.
Afterwords though, you see what great a job they do and wonder why you doubted yourself.

Thats when I became REALLY (and I mean REALLY) hooked on cast boolits.

That poor ole tree. I dunno, maybe ought to call the tree police on ya.
I have enjoyed those same times. Sometimes ya just gotta get out.

I came into this world kicking, screaming, and covered in someone elses blood. I plan to go out the same way.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Need some info on a Lyman base heater!

Can anyone here help me with info on the Lyman "plate type" base heater? I need to know how many amps they draw , I want to wire a rheostat in line to control the heat output . Any help is appreciated. And I guess the most important thing is has it been attempted before , Namely with a heavy duty industrial fan switch. Thanks in advance.

Mine just has a light switch dimmer, crude but functional.

Mine just has a light switch dimmer, crude but functional.That is precisely what I am looking to do , but want to be sure that the rheostat that I have will handle the draw. It is rated for 2 amps min and 9 amps max.

I don't own one, but it shouldn't be more than 1080 watts, which is 9 amps at 120 volts.

You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

I use to use a drop light with a 25 watt bulb.

My new Lyman 4500 heater is rated at 20 watts.
I find no need for a controller. It doesn't get that hot.

First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.

Where is John Galt?

(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
.

I've got one of the Lyman heaters, it came on the bottom of my $7.50 450. Honestly, I have never plugged it in. There are absolutely no markings on it that I can see, unless they are under the 450 or the layer of cork gasket on the bottom. I have no way of measuring amperage draw right now.

Robert

I use a dimmer switch too. No idea what the rating on it is. It works.

According to law, any electrical device is supposed to have its amperage draw, or at least its wattage displayed. Can't believe the info isn't out there somewhere, but if you can't find it why not just call Lyman?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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RCBS lubrisizer die fit in my Lyman 45?

Everyone seems to be out of the Lyman dies I need, .452 and 9mm but I found some RCBS. Will they fit?

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2010LocationMichiganPosts531

They may..and they might not..On some, RCBS dies do not have the rounded groove for the Lyman 45 set screw to fit into.

They may..and they might not..On some, RCBS dies do not have the rounded groove for the Lyman 45 set screw to fit into.I think that eould be the top punch you are talking about. If he is asking about the sizing die then I have used both brands and not had a problem in my 450. I was told they will work just fine in either kf the models out there.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

The 45 uses a set screw that holds the die in. The 450 and 4500 use a fine thread nut to hold the die in. The RCBS dies usually(!) work fine in a 450/4500 but not a 45.

Flat nose ($8) and conformal ($8.50) nose punches for SAECO- or Lyman/RCBS-style luber/sizers.

Saeco-to-Lyman/RCBS style nose punch adapters ($12)

Free S&H in USA on above items

Die retention nut drivers for Lyman and RCBS lubers. Start the nut straight every time! ($22+$5 S&H, shipping free w/purchase of two nose punches)

Email keiththeperfessor@gmail.com for more info.

A better product at a lower price, its the American way.

Personal checks, MOs, and PayPal accepted.

Learn something new wach day. I meant no disrespect on my previous statement. I had been told other wise and my experience is the only set screw is for the top punch.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

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Lyman 268645, ?? top punch #

For 6.5 x 55 Swede, need top punch information. Plan on casting ww@ to start, threads on this site suggest problems with soft metals

Thanks

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Lyman vs Lee 300 Blackout dies

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2012Posts3

Which dies would be better to use to make 300 blk from .223 brass? Thanks

No experience with the Lyman but have used Hornady, Lee and Redding. For loading I prefer the Hornady die set with a Lee FCD added. The Hornady seater is great for ensuring that the boolit enters the case mouth square.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman vs Hornady checks question

Boolit Master Join DateDec 2009LocationQuilcene, WashingtonPosts885

In the past I have always used Hornady crimp-on checks and put them on through my Lee sizers. No problems. Today I got a "screaming-run-like-a-thief" deal on 22 cal Lyman checks at a local gun show. Will these checks go on the same way if I tumble lube the boolits with Alox before I put on the checks then size since I assume they are not a crimp-on like the Hornady? Are there any special tricks to using the Lymans? I got a great deal on some 25 cal checks at the same time.

Well back to my original question, Is Hornady making Lyman checks? I read it some where (An older Handloader I cant seem to locate) I know the plastic bag of copper checks that comes out of each companies box looks identical, as do their respective copper checks, however I know Lyman used to sell brass colored checks.
I would think its going to be if they are copper, they are similar enough, if they arent well it will be trial an error.
Pete

Lyman used to sell brass colored checks that were not the crimp on type that were not made by Hornady. The new Lyman checks are copper, are the crimp on type and are made by Hornady

Boolit Master Join DateDec 2009LocationQuilcene, WashingtonPosts885

These are definitely brass checks. They are in Ideal boxes. Got close to 3,000 for $1 (yes, one dollar so now you know why I felt like running like a thief). Even if I have to super glue them on before lubing and sizing, it might be worth the effort if anyone can tell me if they require any special treatment.

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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lyman 358093 & lyman 429303

What custom mold maker can cut these designs? Been looking for these two for a long time.

Handi rifles-17mach 2. 22magnum. 223. 300aac. 308chip shot. 30-06shorty. 357mag. 358cheeze whiz. 35rem. 44mag talo. 410rifled slug. 45colt carbine. 32"45-120. 50-70govt. 45cal.smokeless mzl. 12ga.ush. 20ga.ush. 12ga.3 1/2". 10ga.3 1/2".

I am all for breaking and entering, I like moving targets.

I know NEI Handtools can do the 358093, you have to look under their old catalog, go to .359 and it is listed as .359-125-GC #132. I tried to post a link to the boolit, but their site doesn't work that way, so here is a link to the index.
http://www.neihandtools.com/catalog/index.html

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2010Posts23

NOE has several different weight versions of the #429303, but they are plain base.

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