I purchased a 457122 mold the other day, well 2 of them actually. They are new production from Lyman. I will probably cast a few test boolits with each and see what the results are. If one casts larger and more consistent, that's the one I'll keep. I expect them to be the same, but you never know.I noticed on a couple of photographs that this mold is bevel base. My 38 wadcutter mold is bevel base and sometimes a pain to lube boolits. Is this a problem or inconvenience with the Gould Mold?
I have cast HP boolits with NOE molds, and don't foresee any issues with the single cavity Lyman mold. For those that have the 457122, do you have any tips or advice for use with this mold?
I hope to get boolits at .459", but that may be optimistic. I may consider lapping the mold to .460". Is there anything special or specifice I need to be aware of?
I will be shooting this in a Marlin 1895 cowboy. I haven't slugged it yet. Need to but haven't gotten around to it. Most information I can find is that .458" boolits are marginal and .459" work pretty good, but the .460"s work the best. Again, until I give them a try, I won't know. I plan to use a 50/50 wheel weight/pure lead mix with 2% tin and not push them too hard. If that doesn't work I will increase the wheel weight percentage some and try again.
I appreciate any input regarding this mold and/or lyman hollow point molds in general. BTW I have a pair of lyman handles but don't know if they'll work on this mold. I'll try to post a pic. Anyone that knows, please chime in.
Brad
1. Keep the pin hot, I rigged a wire holder to keep the pin in the flame of a propane torch while it was out of the blocks.2. Pull the pin before cutting the sprue. It is a real pain to get the HP pin out when the boolit spins in the blocks.
3. What you need are the Large Lyman handles, meant for double cavity molds.
Hope this helps,
Robert
The Lyman molds i've got in this number are flat base with no bevel. Lyman has produced both flat and bevel bases in some of their 45 rifle molds before though. The HP pin is usually set deep in the nose on these. It depends on what level load your wanting on how deep the pin needs to be also. You can water drop that alloy with this and have a fine deer boolit as is with the deep pin at 1300 to 1400 fps. If you want faster, not over half the pin should be in the nose (you would have to shorten it) if you don't want it to blow up.
45 2.1Knowledge without understanding is a dangerous thing. For a little knowledge entices us to walk its path, a bit more provides the foundation on which we take our stand, and a sufficient amount can erect a wall of knowledge around us, trapping us in our own ignorance.
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Knowledge is easy to get, but worthless if you never use it. However the info is free, so the only person you have to blame is yourself if you chose not to use the information.
Thank you, Robert and 45 2.1. I still need to get the pic of the mold handles uploaded. They do fit a lyman 454 round ball 2 cavity mold, but are a little large(wide) for a 445599 single cavity hollow base minie ball mold. I'm hoping that they fit the 457122. If not, I'll need to buy new ones or trade the mold handles.Thanks again, Brad
Boolit Bub Join DateOct 2011LocationMississippi, USAPosts43
Looks like the gap is about 1" when parallel.
In my limited experience the 457122 Gould is an excellent game boolit. I have used the flat base version in 20 to 1 alloy in my 45-70 at just over 1300 fps to cleanly take 2 deer last season. One doe was shot at 30 yards and another at 75 yards. Both were behind the shoulder broad side shots and they both never took a step. I got little to no meat damage. The Gould is my go to boolit in 45-70.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
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