Remington Model 58 barrel question

No it will not. Totally different barrel ring. A barrel can be made from an 870 barrel, all that needs to be done is to drill two gas ports. I would strongly advise getting someone who knows what they are doing to handle it. If you have the tooling and some skills, and an existing barrel to use as a guide for port sizes and angles, it isn't difficult.

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French M51 Helmet question

Okay, I realize this might seem out place, but I don't have any other forum to turn to and, besides, this is the 'general' section of this forum.
That said, I do apologize if this bugs anybody.

I have two French M51 helmets, both advertised as 'originals'. One from 1954 (stamped inside the top of the helmet) with swivel bales ... and one from 1962 which has fixed bales.
Though there are some differences in the slope and front/back brim, the French M51 looks a lot like the American M1 and those 1962 fixed bales certainly look like the earliest 1942 version of the M1.
So, my particular question is -- knowing that the American helmet switched FROM fixed bales (because they could snap off) to swivel bales -- do you think it's possible that the French M51 helmet began with swivel bales and then (evidently in 1962) tried fixed bales?
Jeff

Last edited by jeff7salter; Yesterday at 06:40 PM. Reason: added space

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A question of scope.

Neither is a high-quality optic; having said that, either one may very well give you good service for your particular uses. When I choose between inexpensive scopes, I usually choose the one that seems clearest/brightest to my eye and go with it. I recently chose a Bushnell Sportview 3-9x40 a rifle I bought had on it over a Simmons based on that criterion, and so far, so good.

As for accuracy of adjustment and durability, those factors are always a crapshoot with inexpensive scopes -- the scope may hold zero and last forever, or be a goner after a half-dozen rounds.

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.223 Rifle Twist question

Today, 05:12 PM My 24", 1:9 twist has shot good, 53 - 60 grain with at least 1/2" groups @ 100 yards no matter what powder or charge you use. With some work, it shoots much smaller.

With the right powder and load development, it shoots 2 - 3" groups @ 500 yards with 69 grain SMK's.

It also does very well with the round nose 70 grain hunting bullets @ 400 yards. I never plan to shoot those past 200 or so yards but our range doesn't have a 300 yard berm so I had to use 400

I've never tried anything heavier/longer so can't say for sure but usually those longer/heavier bullets require a little more that 1:9 twist.

As for damage to the rifle/barrel, that's not going to happen unless you get frustrated and wrap it around a tree.

One thing I have found out, don't waste your time, powder or primers on those cheap 62 grain FMJ Armscor's. I bought a couple K of those for my AR's and they are absolutely, 100% pure junk. They do just fine in an AR that is for nothing but home defense and would probably never be shot at anything smaller that an 18x35 target, at less than 100 yards, but don't expect to hit anything small. I use those to foul the barrel when I'm shooting for my smallest groups and in a rifle that shoots one hole groups with good loads won't shoot 1.5" groups with those things.

Today, 05:56 PM Originally Posted by TMan My 22" 1:9 barrel will keep 65gr bullets point on and stable as far as I can shoot on my range, 300yds. The 69gr MatchKings look the best as I hit the upper end of the velocity range, near 3000fps, but shoot poorly at 2700fps in starting loads. From my rifle, the 65's have been more accurate.

I suspect it's telling the same story as MontyF has seen. But if you have a longer barrel, and can get more speed/spin, you might be OK.

No hazard to speak of, and they might shoot OK out to 100yds.

Thanks everyone, your information is priceless and greatly appreciated.
I have the Savage 12 with a 26" barrel, and was wondering if the additional length may be a significient asset ?
I did a bit of research and it appears that I really have to up the velocity to reach any decent kind of stability with this 77 grain bullet which is something I'm not too crazy about doing.
It went as follows:
2000'/s velocity = stability of 1.190
2550'/s velocity = stability of 1.291
3000'/s velocity = stability of 1.362
3500'/s velocity = stability of 1.434
I have a few powders that can give me acceptable velocity without compromising the maximum
load, so I may try a few not expecting too much. I already purchased them, so I should
at least confirm everyone's findings :-)
Thanks again!





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Older Carbon 15 Stock Question

What caliber is it in? (9 mm?) The 223/5.56 use the standard (Commercial buffer tube).

Jim

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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M16 full auto bullet question

I will be shooting a full auto m16a1 with a silencer.

I recently purchased 5000 .223 bullets/projectiles that are soft tip (meaning the tip is exposed lead so as to cause a mushroom upon impact). I think I may have made a mistake buying these bullets, as I heard that for an m16 full auto, with it's high rate of fire, and with a silencer, you need FMJ.

The reason being that the high rate of fire will cause lead deposits into the gas system and the silencer will be fouled up with lead. Someone told me that you're not supposed to shoot non jacketed or plated bullets through a silencer, as the lead or carbon can harden onto the baffles and ruin the baffles.

Is this true? Can I run these bullets through my gun? Will it ruin the silencer?

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.308 OAL Question for workup

I was working in my workup for the range this weekend and I came across something I haven't come across yet in the 1 and a half years I've been reloading.

Gun I'm using is a Savage Axis .308. I'm loading Sierra MK 155gr Palma.

I used my Hornady OAL gauge and came up with a ogive measurement of 2.289 which barely put the bullet in the case. From what I read, you should have at least the bullet width in the case, in this case it should be .308. At the measurement to ogive of 2.289, there was not .308 left in the case, once I moved the measurement to ogive back to like 2.250, then there was .310 of the bullet in the case.

After coloring the top of a bullet I finally settled on a OAL of 2.900 with an ogive measurement of 2.241 which as you can see from above, is quite a bit away from the lands. I ran the dummy round I made that had the bullet colored and everything ran through fine, no lands marks on the bullet. Even for the magazine just fine with plenty of room to spare. Plus with an OAL of 2.900, there's just over .308 in the neck.

Well I got to looking in the Sierra manual, and they have a OAL for this bullet of 2.775.

I've never had an OAL this much over a book published OAL.

Should I recheck my measurements even though everything ran through fine, and none of the marker got scratched off from the lands? Can I move it out longer or should I keep at least .308 in the case like I've read?

I'm thinking that this rifle just has a generous throat between where the shoulders catch and where the lands are.

Thoughts?

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Primer Question

I'm sure this isnt a new question but, I have a few round that I need to pull apart due errors on my part , plus a few misfeds. Can I just run the the emptied brass threw my deprimer to take the unspent primer out? I also have one that the primer is in upside down,will depriming it set off the primer? These are small pistol primers in 9mm rounds.

Thanks

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AR scope mount question

As far as mounts go, this will get you started- http://www.maxicon.com/guns/optics/one_piece/ar15_onepiece_mounts.htm

Scopes are another story. The simplest thing is figure out what you want your rifle to do and get a good scope with the appropriate magnification. Keep in mind that it's MUCH easier to get too much magnification than too little. If you're looking at two scopes in the same price range, go for the one with fewer features and better optics. When I'm looking for a telescopic sight, I start with Leupold and work my way up from there. I've tried cheaper scopes but they are gone because of their inferior optics. I have a couple of economy Leupolds that have been in use for years.

As far as the front sight base goes, you have two choices-
1) Get the scope high enough that the center of the reticle is a little higher than the FSB. Many folks will tell you that you won't see the FSB in the scope. That may be true, but if the FSB blocks the center of the reticle, you'll go crazy trying to make precise shots. It will prevent you from lining up the reticle on the target.
2) Cut down the FSB

However, the easiest solution is to get an Aimpoint red dot sight

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Another 9mm 115 gr FMJ with Unique Question

I don't have a reason not to go with your suggestion, unclenick. It sounds reasonable to me. Is this from your experience, or do I need another manual?

Or maybe my thread searching skills are severely lacking.

I'm not looking for any particular power factor, either. Just a nice, decent, accurate load for a Glock G19 (for target practice), using the components I have available. And I'm trying to get better at figuring out loads without always needing to jump to my lifelines.

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Archery question ...

Happiness is a warm, Gut-Pile !!! ..... only to us I am a little concerned about having a deer with an arterial bleed running across the deck/driveway of a neighbor that might not be a hunter It's a valid concern but it's going to happen sooner or later. In our area, there are incidents like this and it even makes the local news. On one occasion, a deer decided to drop dead on a bike path and scared a bunch of folks. ...

They call them city hunts but they are actually more of a conservation effort. Gardeners don't like us shooting deer until they start eating their beautiful flower garden. As stated, we can only do our best, in our own best ways. Go the extra mile, in the city than you would, in the woods.

Case in point;
Last year some hunters shot a deer in a very exposed area. They drug it about 50yds. into some trees and then proceeded to gut it. ..
They left a broad blood trail in the snow as well as the Gut-Pile. ..
We all know that with a little extras effort, they could have covered the trail and removed the Gut-Pile .......

Be Safe !!!

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factory crimp question

Lee's FCD (Factory Crimp Die) performs two functions. Crimping and post-sizing. The two operations are independent of one another and cometimes work at cross-purposes. With lead bullets, sometimes the post-sizing reduces the grip the case has on the bullet. The grip the case has on the bullet is important for three reasons.

1) It keeps the bullet from being knocked deeper into the case during handling and very important, during feeding. This is most significant in autoloaders

2) It keeps the bullet from being pulled out of the case during handling, and very important, during recoil of its brother rounds. This is most significant in revolvers.

3) It keeps the bullet from moving out of the case until a threshold of pressure has been reached. This is most significant with slow powders, but important with all powders.

In taper-crimped cartridges, the bullet tension (the grip the case has on the bullet) is provided by friction more than by crimp. If you post-size a case onto a lead bullet, the case springs back more than the lead does, reducing bullet tension. This is less problematic with jacketed bullets than with lead, but can occur with either.

If your dies are adjusted correctly, the Lee FCD will NOT post-size your loaded cartridges. You will be able to tell if it is by carefully feeling the resistance as you run the cartridge into and out of the die.

The main reason for the existence of a crimp die that operates separate from the (usual) seat/crimp combination die is to simplify installing and adjusting those dies and to prevent the case mouth from digging into the sides of bullet as it is being seated. (This can happen with a strong crimp - mainly roll crimp - on a bullet while it is still being pushed deeper into the case by the seating plug. This is virtually unavoidable with the combo die, but if it is moderate presents no problem.)

I suggest reading these threads:

Not necessary 99% of the time, but convenient.

Lee Precision's thoughts on the matter can be found in these threads:

One thread contains a lively discussion of the FCD and the function of the post-sizing carbide ring in the FCD. The phrase "9mm" is in the thread title, but don't let that dissuade you. It contains responses direct from Lee Precision, too. Read the whole thing. It is worth it.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465091

this thread contains a poll

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465603

The Virtue and the Vice
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=509934
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=691050
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/vie...?f=11&t=168362
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/6586...tml#post814465

Lost Sheep

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Beretta PX4 Compact Question

My question is for those who own a PX4 Storm Compact.
I own one in 9mm, that has maybe 800 rounds or so being shot.
Today at the range, after the slide locking back when empty, after inserting
a full mag the slide didn't want to return after dropping the slide release.
I didn't give it much thought, as after fiddling with both sides release, or inserting an empty mag it would then slide back.
When I cleaned the gun, I noticed something that maybe you could check on yours for me.
The "Extractor Spring Pin" (hole in top of slide) seems to be protruding into
the underside of my slide, and has been causing wear on the polymer frame below. I don't recall it protruding before, and I suspect this may be my problem. My pic attached is very blurred (sorry), but you can still see the protruding pin.
Maybe you would be kind enough to see if yours is "flush" on the underside of the slide.
Thanks so much!
SN
Note: The "pin" appears as a white dot on my poor photo. Last edited by ShootingNut; Yesterday at 03:54 PM. Reason: Added Information

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question for you nebraska ccw trainers/instructors

Happens to all of us, every so often.

Besides, it's possible that Gary Slider will have some info on alternative training options, or that the links in his Nebraska pdf will have those answers.

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Ar-15 Magazine Question

I haven't had an issue with the mag lips feeding as much as the floor plates starting to bulge on USGI mags.

If you're going to store for an extended amount of time, buy some stainless steel or PMAGs.

__________________
SailSkiDrive
Hk USP 45 Expert, USP 40, USP 9, SIG P226, S&W M&P9, Hk 4, Makarov, Desert Eagle 40, Beretta FS92 Centurion, Kimber TLEII 1911A1, Glock 22, SIG P225, 1943 Rem Rand 1911A1, S&W mod 64, Walther PPQ, SIG P229, Browning BDA 45 (SIG P220), Hk45, SIG P230

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Another stupid question

I posted about the set up that we had bought and know trying to put a order together for some dies and the charge master but was wondering if I would be able to use the lock ring and that accurately sets the die back next reloading session or not I was told to get the hornady locking dies and agree but there not in stock and would like to get only the things in stock on this order.

And I know I need to measure the rounds each time I change the dies but if the locking dies do any better or eliminate any steps.

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Beretta mag. question

Possibly a Beretta 8000 (Cougar) mag. Only a guess, though.

Photos would probably help - a lot.

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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question for the USPSA shooters

I'd run a full size gun but other than that I wouldn't sweat it on worrying which gun you have. I prefer 9mm because it's so cheap to feed. Unless you reload...

Ike

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Stupid question on barrel Crown

Ok, the crown is the end of the barrel that is rounded. I've heard people say they have to get their gun recrowned or they shorten the barrel and have to recrown.

Does the crown do anything? All of my rifles have a crown except my Stevens Favorite model 17 .22. The end of the barrel is cut straight. Can a crown be damaged? How and what does it affect?

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Question about Berrys .380 RNHB

This is my first time loading Berrys played bullets. They are 100gr. The only 100gr I could find was in Hornadys manual but for FMJ. They other 4 manuals I have, only have 95 grain. I plan on using AutoComp because I like how it performs in my 9mm load I have using it. I use a OAL of .971 with the Magtechs I've used.

Do you think this would be a safe OAL to use with the RNHB of the Berrys? I know it's a little longer is why I'm asking. I plan to stay on the lower end of the FMJ data from Hornady.

Thanks in advance.

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