Success with the H&R 45 Colt Classic Carbine!

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2005LocationNortheast PAPosts360

After a lot of trial and error, I finally got this gun to shoot well. I learned that a full engagement of the latch and locking shelf is necessary and then found that the rifle really likes 7.4gr W231 behind the Lee 200gr RNFP bullet. I don't havve a working camera but had five shots touching at fifty yards. The latch shelf and latch were way out of specs but some careful work with files and stones made it right. Happy camper here.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationSpace Coast, FLPosts591

Congratulations on the win, does it not stink that you are required to fit your finished, done, boxed, sold gun. No QC, No pride, welcome to the new world. Yes they are only a couple hundred, but there are only a couple of parts. Chaps my backside everyone I hear about one. Gtek

Boolit Bub Join DateFeb 2012LocationCaliforniaPosts45

There's one of these at my local gunsmiths that I was thinking of picking. But don't know that I will now, I would hate to take a file to a brand new gun! Did you have to reblue it afterwards?

I absolutely love my classic carbine. I have had so much fun trying different loads for the carbine on mild gallery round ball loads to some shoulder bruising barn burners. I had so much fun I had to find a Vaquero in 45 Colt so I could work some loads for both. Good times. Enjoy your rifle

"Silence in the face of tyranny implies consent, and I do not consent." Mike Vanderbough, April 20, 2013

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011Posts377

My 500s&w Handirifle is pure fun. We have loaded it with powder charges of 6.4 grains up to 40tgrains.

Closest recorded range Chrony kill (3 feet with witnesses)

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2005LocationNortheast PAPosts360

TMenezes asked:There's one of these at my local gunsmiths that I was thinking of picking. But don't know that I will now, I would hate to take a file to a brand new gun! Did you have to reblue it afterwards?

The area worked on is totally out of sight when the gun is closed. We're talkikng about a 1/8" by 1/2" area. A quick touch of cold blue hides it anyway. Unfortunately a lot of the guns manufactured today have to be "tweaked" by the purchaser.

Last edited by tomf52; Today at 05:06 AM. Reason: punctuation

I have owned several H&R's in the past and presently have a 30-30, 357 max, and two 45 Colts. I've never had to take a file to any of these guns or any of the ones in the past. The mistake a lot of people make is leaving a film of oil on the latch and shelf. Leaving a film of oil in that area will cause a different lockup each time you close the action. Keep these areas dry of oil and you won't have a problem.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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.45 from 40S&W casings: My journey to success

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts2

I recently came into possession of a 1911 80% frame that I finished and turned into a very beautiful mix of new and old. I ran into an issue with ammuntion however. So I decided to do some research and came across another post by a member here and it sparked my attention. I looked around at several diffrent dies that would complete my goals with minimal modification. I found that the 260 Remmington FL sizer had the perfect diameter for my needs (only 2/1000 off target). So I bought the cheapest die I could find to possibly destroy my dreams of making my own ammo. I was surprised to find that it was way easier than I thought!

The following is a journal of sorts to keep those members of this forum informed on my progress and growth. I hope you all can bare with me on my explanation of how I intend to complete my goal.

I bought the Lee 260 Rem FL resizing die for 17USD shipped. It arrived in 2 days very much so faster than the 10-14 days I was expecting. I opened it up and took a look at the shiny brand new walls inside thinking to myself that they would soon be destroyed. I annealed a casing and poured it with lead before crossing my fingers and sliding it in the end of the die. I searched for something to fit in the end of the die and found that a wratchet extension I had fit perfectly! I "ghettofied" the first round with a hammer and used a center punch to remove it. From the die. I thought I had ruined the die as it fell out. To my amazement came this beautifully horrid looking piece of crunched up brass.

I was surprised to see that it did infancy look a lot like a bullet! The center punch I used also made it into a hollow point instead of a flat nose like I was expecting. I was overjoyed at this horrible looking piece of yellowish white metal.

My plans from this point on:

1: find some way to make bullets faster and without a hammer (I have some ideas already).

2: make an auto-eject system

3: don't screw up the die!

If anyone has any ideas on how I might possibly accomplish this please speak up. This is the first time I ever made a bullet and I would like as much help as possible.

I will post photos as soon as I can figure out how, the prompt says I don't have enough permissions.

-Jr.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts2

That's what I have of the bullet thus far. I still have to figure out how I'm gonna make the press I have for reloading work. The sizing die punch I had didn't work out as planned. It doesn't fit in my press for some reason. I think the portion that fits into the reloading press is just a smidge to thick.

-Jr.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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First attempt and success

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2010Posts5

Try screwing your die up a little higher to get the leverage you need. Most of your power is in the bottom of your stroke, right before caming over.

Other than that, not bad! Better than I could do.

Last edited by Lizard333; Yesterday at 11:26 AM.

"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin

backing it up might tear the rims off.
but definatly find the sweet spot, it goes from super hard to not so bad once you find it.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2010Posts5

The die body is too long which makes the punch long also. This configuration makes finding the sweet spot not possible. I am going to have to shorten the die body so a shorter punch will push far enough to allow the die to be positioned to the top of the stroke to maximize stroke. I was happy just to be able to get an end result that was somewhere in the ballpark.

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2009LocationWashingtonPosts153

You say you used a taper reamer. How long of a lead do you have? You dont need much, maybe 1/8" roll over. I actually made a crude one from a drill bushing that I just radiused the opening just as a test. This will allow you to use a shorter punch as all the work is done in the bottom 1/4" or so of the die. The top part of the hole can be opened up to eliminate excess forced needed to keep pushing them through. I now use ones from RCE. I set mine up so when the press if fully extended the case is completely past the radius and then just feed the next one in, one right after another.
Bret

the way the jaxkets look i'd be pretty hard pressed to really change a whole lot.
you are getting them through without the little line above the base from the rim.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2010Posts5

There is a 60 degree bevel just inside the opening and then the taper starts from there. I was trying to unfold the rim as gently as possible. I think based on the initial bang that gentle needs a little more work.

I decided to go the drill bushing route using taper pin reamers too. I figured I could use one die body and just change bushings. I want to reduce copper tubing jackets but the principle is the same as a derim die. My new mill arrives tomorrow & it will take a while to set up. I should be able to ream dies OK holding the work in 5C collets. Should also be able to turn punches with the work chucked in an R8 collet and the cutter in the milling vise or in a square 5C collet. It should work better than a drill press and a file. I' be busy for a while.

Bob

Looks good to me. Keep up the good work.

Paul G.
Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Instant(well almost) success

I finally used the Lee 4-20 I got for Christmas '11 and the 1 oz. slug mold from last Christmas for my first casting session. I have soft lead from 2 sources (Thanks, Captain) both scratchable by thumbnail so I mixed them in equal proportions. I had tin ready but didn't need it. I had prepped the mold by smoothing rough edges off the sprue plate and the key drive portion of the mold and graphiting both with a pencil. Ingots melted fairly rapidly with the dial set on 9. I set the mold on the pot while waiting for the lead to melt. The first slug was frosty, so I turned the dial down to 8. My ersatz casting thermometer-$10 grill thermometer-threatened to peg at 750 so I backed it down to 7.
I found 8 or just under to be more appropriate for my casting rhythm. I had to tap the bottom of the key drive to get the slugs to release and at 7, the lower residual heat made things sticky.
No drips until I got one from the thermocouple which I am not using. Maybe because I replaced the wood knob on the pot with an all brass knob and a couple of washers. When I say tap-I mean lightly, with a wood screwdriver handle. And if you say it didn't happen without pictures.....

"I don't have hobbies - I'm developing
a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"

I finally used the Lee 4-20 I got for Christmas '11That Lee 4-20 is the deal used to pour my jigs with a torch and ladle but it failed miserably for boolits. Did my second casting last night 26--1/4 ounce jigheads and over 400 boolits in short order.......

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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