I have a question about swaging copper

Hello

First off I am a complete novice when it comes to swaging. What I am trying to do is swag my primer pockets of 7.62 X 38mmR brass in order to convert it into berdan brass. I have read up on the process and watch many videos but all of the ones I have viewed are for larger brass such as 7.62 X 39 and 7.62 X 54R brass.

I already reform 32/22 brass and load it and shoot it from my nagant revolver but I would like to try and reuse military brass with boxer primers.

So my question is what thickness of copper would be best for swaging the primer pocket to decrease its diameter. Instead of a copper tubing which I do not think I can get small enough I was thinking about mashing small square sheets of soft copper with a RCBS primer pocket swager. I realize I will need to re-drill the flash hole as the copper will most likely fill the bottom of the primer pocket.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

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Copper Bullet Jackets?

I have some stock but am looking ahead for a reliable source for good benchrest quality jackets at reasonable prices, haha maybe I am asking to much...

I do have a sample of jackets coming to try. Keep ya posted.

Thanks
James

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Hunting With 44 Magnum Casr Bullets With Copper Gascheck

Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2012Locationidaho falls idahoPosts42

My 320grn cast from w.w. ,water dropped lubed with lbt blue lube bullets on top of 21.5 grns of 296 are very accurate and are about all i want to shot in a tense situation.That being time off target from recoil to back on target. this load i have used in confrontations with various and sundry bears you get pass throughs,bullets are big enough to cause nasty wound channels and result in a dead bear! all the talk and speculation dont meam spit ,results speak the loudest. im confident in my vload and that means every thing.

Boolit Master Join DateDec 2009LocationQuilcene, WashingtonPosts907

If you were to do the "wet phone book" terminal ballistic test with your boolit at an mv of 1200 and for good measure put a 1/4 piece of plywood 1" inside the front to simulate clipping a bone, I suspect you will get at least 16" of penetration at 40 yards. With that evidence in hand you can be assured your boolit will handily take down anything on this continent out to 75 yards and deer twice that far or more if your eyes are better than mine.

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts58

I suppose the thing that bothers me most is when a guy says he gets 1400 to 1500 fps and thinks it is better. First you need a softer boolit and second you lose accuracyAm I understanding correctly: SOFTER bullets are better for higher velocity loads? I had thought it was the other way around.

Am I understanding correctly: SOFTER bullets are better for higher velocity loads? I had thought it was the other way around.When speaking of handguns, all of them are low velocity. They have very low demands on hardness, when everything is done correctly. I can not think of any standard handgun that would need a hardness of more than 12 Bn.

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts58

When speaking of handguns, all of them are low velocity. They have very low demands on hardness, when everything is done correctly. I can not think of any standard handgun that would need a hardness of more than 12 Bn.So COWW cured for two weeks or quenched is a good alloy for most North American hunting situations including deer and Texas pigs?

"A man may not care for golf and still be human, but the man who does not like to see, hunt, photograph, or otherwise outwit birds or animals is hardly normal. He is supercivilized, and I for one do not know how to deal with him."
- Aldo Leopold

"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force: Whenever you give up that force, you are inevitably ruined."
- Patrick Henry.

Am I understanding correctly: SOFTER bullets are better for higher velocity loads? I had thought it was the other way around.The GC allows a softer, malleable alloy for better expansion to be used at magnum level velocities with excellent accuracy. The same alloy can not be used with a PB'd cast bullet at the same level of velocity with the same accuracy.....thus PB'd cast bullets used for such are "hard cast" to hold up under the load.

Larry Gibson

So COWW cured for two weeks or quenched is a good alloy for most North American hunting situations including deer and Texas pigs?With a GC'd bullet you can add 2% tin to the COWWs and then add 100% lead to that for a 50/50% mix and maintain excellent accuracy up through 1400+ fps. That alloy will give much better expansion and terminal performance on said deer and pigs.....even in Texas.

Larry Gibson

I think 44man is referring to temperature.

I have some lil gun powder and in my pistol after a cylendar full, it is HOT, way to hot to touch. I'm using middle of the road loads too.

maybe 44man could expound on it for us

Yes HEAT. 12 rounds through a .357 and we could not touch the gun. It is so hot from the lack of deterrent it will erode steel. Even Freedom will drop your warranty if you use it. It could also suffer from pressure spikes. Heat could cause that.
Larry has a point about gas checks. If you use a softer alloy because your velocity and caliber needs it, the GC is also needed. It is because it stops base skid. Nothing else it does---or should I say it does nothing else.
But the .44 does not need anything special, just boolit weight and a hard boolit at the right velocity. Don't fool with a 320 gr at 800 fps or 1500 fps. Neither will shoot good enough to hunt with.
Now my large .500 JRH needs some expansion with the 440 gr boolit at 1350 fps. It is another hole punch. I use a PB so the best thing to do is soften the nose some without losing the hard base. If I softened the whole boolit I would need a GC.
A gas check is the best thing ever when you need it but you can get around spending the money.
Alloy choice is what determines if you need a GC.
Any time you get soft enough to skid rifling, you need the skid stop of the GC but if you get too soft or fast you will exceed what it does. There is one point where a GC will spin on the boolit and still seal, you are at the limit. The soft boolit might have skidded too much already and leaded the bore so a recovered boolit will also show a leaded GC. They were not made to scrape lead. The GC can run over leading.

Am I understanding correctly: SOFTER bullets are better for higher velocity loads? I had thought it was the other way around.Yes and also much slower. There is a sweet spot with the .44 where hard works so good I will not vary from it. Regulate your boolit. You will get to where you NEED a GC.
Adjust for just the right expansion by seeing what your boolit does to an actual animal, not paper.
Velocity is good as long as you have accuracy and a boolit that is just right.

If you were to do the "wet phone book" terminal ballistic test with your boolit at an mv of 1200 and for good measure put a 1/4 piece of plywood 1" inside the front to simulate clipping a bone, I suspect you will get at least 16" of penetration at 40 yards. With that evidence in hand you can be assured your boolit will handily take down anything on this continent out to 75 yards and deer twice that far or more if your eyes are better than mine.All testing with all kinds of stuff to shoot really proves nothing. The animal is not made from wood or paper. There is more air in lungs with liquid dispersed through them.
My 330 gr .44 will go through 34" of wet phone books but that shows nothing about energy placed in the lungs. Darn sure, you need energy placed, not before or after the deer.

I suppose the hardest thing is about what a cast boolit can do or not do. You have weight and velocity and you have distance with velocity changes. Now add animal size and toughness. Now different calibers. Add in boolit hardness and you have a huge mess to figure out.
No easy way out, no fixed answers.
Not like the old days with a pure round ball and BP, just make the ball bigger.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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copper sheets

does anyone know what 0.10 copper sheets 8"x 11" are worth? I have some to get rid of. thanks.
skimmerhead

Cheap things are not good and Good Thing's Are Not Cheap

the worst part of getting old; is remebering when you were young

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2009LocationMisty MountainsPosts997

One would need to know the alloy and temper of the material. Depending on that and the price I may be interested.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Annealing copper checks?

Hello all,
I have a couple of questions I know have been addressed here before, probably many times, but I cant seem to find it.
I'm having a couple of issues with copper checks and thinking that annealing them might help. My first issue is that after installing the checks and sizing and lubing my checks are larger in diameter than my sized and lubed bullets. I'm thinking this is probably due to the "spring back" of the copper material. The other issue is that on one of my 30cal molds the check to shank fit is very snug, and I find myself tapping the base of the bullet on my benchtop trying to get the check installed square to the bullet base. This bullet design has a tapered gas check shank.
I'm thinking that I could probably anneal the checks in my toaster oven which I use to heat treat bullets. If so, at what temperature and time should I use, and should I water quench afterwards or air cool them?
Your responses or pointing me in the right direction with previous threads is much appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick

Yep use your toaster oven to anneal, set the temp 450-500? spread the checks in an old cookie sheet heat for 45 minutes
then air cool they'll be soft and have little if any springback.
Washing the checks first to remove any manufactering lube helps to reduce carbon buildup on the heated checks.

Calamity Jake

NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.

Thanks for your help. I'll give it a try.

I don't think 450-500? is enough to anneal, I think you will need closer to 600? for about an hour.

I have a small cast iron skillet that I use to anneal check. Dump the checks in and put on the stove top. Stir them around every once in a while, until they are all nice and black. Let them cool and that is that. It is worth the effort.

Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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