Loading 38 S&W with Bullseye

I had a post I started before, but it really got sidetracked into other problems I had.

When I'm searching for lead info, I'm usually getting into casting, which I'm not doing. Also, have you ever tried to search for "38 S&W"? I'm missing the magic to get anywhere with that. Anyway, I was able to obtain some Magtech Bullets 38 S&W (360 Diameter) 146 Grain Lead Round Nose from MidwayUSA because I wanted to learn how to reload lead.

Since these bullets are already cast, can I load them like I would jacketed bullets? Or do I still need to go through some sort of sizing/lubricating process?

Reading through my "ABC's of Reloading" isn't making it clear to me, as it seems to be coming from a casting perspective. I intend on using an old Harrington and Richards top-break 38 S&W revolver for my loads, if that makes any difference (maybe lower pressures needed?). It looks almost identical to an Iver Johnson.

I've only been able to get Bullseye powder, so that's what I guess I'll start with. I think my Lyman book has 150 gr starting at 2.1 gr. Doesn't seem to be a lot of data any more for 38 S&W, even on the Alliant site.

Any experienced suggestions on start, max, and OAL?

Thanks again--everyone is always very informative and it's appreciated.

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winchester 94 loading gate problem

I'd take it out of the rifle to work on it. The answer above is correct, the rib on the back of the gate is burred and needs to be cleaned up, the back and edges smoothed out.

Care must be taken to get the screw in straight when reassembling, it's easy to get it cross threaded and damage either the screw or gate, or both. If the front of the gate is allowed to be out of the hole just slightly when barely starting the screw, once it's in and cleanly cutting threads, wiggle it around and get the front in the hole behond the opening before snuggling up the screw.

Soneone will likely be along and say its normal, that if you just don't push each round in all the way, you can load more. Yes, that works, but when properly fitted up, the gate should operate slickly and smoothly to load more rounds. My older guns do so, and ones I've smoothed up also are simple load more into without drama. There's no good reason to put up with the gate not operating well.

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Loading for a new to me M1903

Picked up a M1903 a few weeks back.
I have never loaded '06 before or for a milsurp either.
Been doing a lot of reading here and I need some advice as to whether I am starting out on the right foot.

I have cast some 311284's and some 311332's.
They are a bit harder than wheel weights but not a lot harder than that.

I only have a 100 cases. I have a lot of different powders I could try.

Here is my plan:
I was thinking of loading 50 311284's over SR 4759.
Start at 22.0 grains (Starting load in the Lyman 4th edition)
Load 10 with that powder charge, go up .5 grains, load ten more etc.
So I would end up with 10 each at 22.0 grains to 24.0 grains in half grain increments.

The other 50 cases I was thinking of doing the same basic thing with the 311332 and 2400 powder.
Start at 16.0 grains and go up to 18 in half grain increments.

Does this sound like a decent plan to start out with?
Maybe I should stick to one boolit and try two different powders under that one style...
What do you guys think?

Matt

44 Special Articles

With regards to gun control in this country, everyone should be asking themselves one question:
What is it that this government feels they need to do, but can't do, unless the citizens of this nation are first disarmed?

???O? ????

I have had astounding results with 16 grains of 2400 and the 311284 in my '03. Astounding as in 5 shots into a hole the size of a quarter at 100 yards (off the bench). Now maybe to others that's not so astounding but to me it was terrific.

16gr of 2400 (plus or minus 1/2gr) is THE goto load for all 30 cal mil surps when loading cast...For whatever reason, it always works. I especially like it in 30-40 krag.
Jon

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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need some loading data for the 45-200-SWC and Green Dot please

Hi, I poured a bunch of 45-200SWC's yesterday and plan on loading up a few this weekend. I found a Green Dot recipe in the Lee book, but it seems a bit off. The starting and max load weights are the same. Odd. Are any of you loading this bullet with Green Dot? Will the OAL be the same as the HG 68(1.25)?

Thanks,
Rob

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1st time 38 special loading

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2011Posts19

Hi all,

Thanks to a few forum members I am on the road to reloading .38 Special.

I have a question or two - first - do you need to crimp for this caliber - it will be fired from a revolver.

The current test load will be 160gr rn - my test cases (no powder or primers) are COL of 1.519" with a crimp.

I was thinking I need to be a bit longer (1.54 or so) and was planning to start using 4.2 grains of Universal.
Any thought or critiques - I have loaded for 9mm, .223, 7.62x54r and 6.5x55 - but this is my first revolver cartridge.
Thanks!

Howdy repawn, you need to crimp. If you don't, you run the risk of the boolits "jumping" out of the cases upon recoil and thus getting getting jammed in between your cylinder and frame. This is no fun at all to remedy.

As far as overall length, the max is considered 1.55" or actually just so they don't poke out your cylinder and cause a hang up like noted above. The cool thing about a revolver, is you have more liberty as far as setting the bullet or boolits deeper than normal( due to the cyl. length again), but don't get too liberal as to cause pressures to rise.

I am not familar with Universal, so someone else will have to chime in on that subject.

Load Safe

Last edited by LUBEDUDE; Yesterday at 09:10 PM.

TEAM HOLLYWOOD

NRA- LIFE TSRA-LIFE SASS-LIFE

Do your bullets have a crimp groove? Most bullets designed for revolvers have a groove to roll your crimp into. If it does, just crimp in the groove and be done with it.
If your bullet has no crimp groove, are you just mashing the crimp into the bullet?

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2007Posts508

There is a second reason to crimp. Some powders perform better when crimped. It may be a slight crimp or heavy. I use a chronograph and wish I had a mechanical rest for testing purposes. I know of people who don't crimp at all but it is a different bullet than you are shooting. I too have not used Universal and curious with the 4.2 load. Hodgdon site starts at 3.5 and ends at 4.5 for a 158 grain lead bullet.

Take care

r1kk1

TEAM HOLLYWOOD

NRA- LIFE TSRA-LIFE SASS-LIFE

Do your bullets have a crimp groove? ?If you look close at the top photo you can see the crimp groove.

TEAM HOLLYWOOD

NRA- LIFE TSRA-LIFE SASS-LIFE

Boolit Mold Join DateJun 2011Posts19

If you look close at the top photo you can see the crimp groove.The boolits do not really have a crimp groove - not sure how many cast boolits do - is it alright to crimp without a cannelure?

My Lyman manual has a starting load of 4.2 under a 158gr with a max of 4.7. I suppose I could safely dial that back and follow the hodgon data.

Oops fooled me, need better glasses!

TEAM HOLLYWOOD

NRA- LIFE TSRA-LIFE SASS-LIFE

I would definitely use a slightly tappered crimp and that appears to be about what you have although the pic is slightly blurry; roll crimp shouldn't be necessary. For a backyard plinking load I usually load my cartridges with the recommended starting load, in your case it would be 3.5 grains of Universal. The load data that you are using also shows the cartridge overall length (col)for that bullet to be 1.475 and that also is what I would try to achieve. Without knowing the actual revolver it is difficult to determine how much longer you could go, but you should be ok with the 1.519 length if the cylinder rotates without any restrictions. Shooting for precision, competition or self defense is a whole new ballgame when it comes to the numbers.

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Back in my days of heavy and fierce IPSC competition, I loaded 158grRN boolits with a far lesser ogive than the boolit you show, but to date, every cast boolit I have ever cast or loaded has had a crimp groove. I can state pretty unequivocally that I will never load a wheelgun boolit that does not have a crimp groove.

I'm not a fan of taper-crimping for wheel guns. Just not. Nor am I a fan of boolits with no crimp groove. I strongly prefer a roll crimp on a boolit with a crimp groove because this gives me additional control over the pressures I can create with the powder/primer/OAL combinations. It also helps give me a quick/instant visual verification that my seating depth isn't changing on me as I crank the loads out on a progressive.

I picked up a two-banger mold a few years ago in .358 that is a rather severe round-nose boolit and loaded some up. The only reason I can fathom for having such a boolit is for ease of use in speedloaders. I loaded up the boolits and they shoot okay, but they are basically worthless.

With no meplat whatsoever, their utility as a hunting or self-defense boolit is nil. The severe round nose ogive makes small holes in targets, so for bullseye/target shooting, they become marginal. I also find them to be less stable at distances beyond 35' or so than the more standard meplat boolits including and up to the SWC and WCs.

Not wanting to rain on your first outing and loading here, but rather want to make sure that you manage your expectations appropriately.

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I'm not an expert but I have had very good luck/accuracy with the cast Lee 158 SWC's (that have a groove obviously) properly seated and then slightly roll crimped with a Lee FCD. Quick and simple. I'd also agree on a revolver a groove and a roll crimp is the best way to go.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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I am loading up my first Lyman 525s, can I get a safety check

So am am about to start loading up my first lyman 525s and my first 12 gauge loads

you have all been so helpful and I was hoping for a little more advice

I have chosen 2 loads to try out. One intended to be a low recoil all day shooter, another to be a full power load.

I first chose wads based of VdoMemorie's pic that I love of the 525 in all different slugs

pic originally posted by VdoMemorie

I like the 12S3 and the Versalite because the top of the wad comes up to the middle or the slug "rim" without going over the top. This is important because I want to roll crimp.

the low recoil load I chose was based off a bird shot load from the alliant site.

I chose this load because it says the pressures are only in the 7000s, 16 gauge card and slug in the wad

the full power load I chose is the real one I have questions on because it is a mix of a few different recipes but I fell it should work and be safe.

Fiocchi unskived hulls
Fiocchi 616 primers
38gn of blue dot then work it up from there
Federal 12s3 wad with a 16 gauge .125 card
roll crimp

any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated

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