M1 Carbine - Sighting-In Problem

Hello, all.

My good friend recently inherited his late-father-in-law's M1 Carbine. The rifle is in mint condition--the bluing is nigh-perfect and the wood stock has nary a ding or dent in it. It looks, for all intents and purposes, brand new and unfired.

Now the problem:

The rifle is extremely accurate. At 50 yards, properly benched, it will hold sub-3" groups using either his handloads or 110 gr. S&B ammo. However, the groups are a full 24" above the point of aim, despite the the rear sight being adjusted to its lowest position:

The front sight post is apparently not adjustable for elevation:

Any suggestions as to what might be going on, and how we can fix the problem?

Thanks!

(BTW, the red dust is just lint from the gun sock.)

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Buckmark scope problem

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What's causing this brass problem?

I agree with Gster,

From your description it does sound like it's happening on extraction.

you may have thinned out the necks of the brass from reforming them and they just aren't as strong as they used to be.

Depending on how badly their damaged, you could round them out with something to get them round enough that the resizing die will except them.

You should post some pictures. You would get better answers.

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rcbs lube-a-matic II problem

RCBS Lube-A-Matic 2

I have Lyman and RCBS lube-a -matic lubbers? I thought the new lube machine was the 2, MontyF, I do not have the heater, good call on heating it up, I would suggest he heat first to determine if the lube can be used. Some of the old lube reminded me of long fiber grease sold by TEXACO for wheel bearings (in the old days), the long fiber grease did not lube when it was cold and was too thin when hot.

F. Guffey

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Bushmaster Carbon 15 Buffer Retainer problem

I have looked around a bit and have been unable to find anyone who has had a similar problem as of yet. My question is this: Has anyone with any AR-15 had an issue with the buffer spring retainer pin and spring dislodging while firing? About a month ago I let my brother shoot my rifle and he was messing around with the buttstock. He then went to fire and all we heard was a click. I thought maybe it was an issue with the round as it was a reload, however I removed it and replaced it with a factory round with the same result. This happened 5 or 6 times. I then took out the takedown pin and when I opened the lower, there was a spring which had been mangled sitting on top of the hammer. I removed it and we went back from our range to the workshop to figure the problem out. In this instance, it appears that he backed the buffer tube off enough while playing with the stock that it allowed it to be released.

Fast forward. I got a new spring from Bushmaster, ordered a new Blackhawk! adjustable stock, tube, buffer, spring, and castle nut. I installed it and I KNOW I had the thing put on right. I shot quite a few rounds with no issues last week, my girlfriend put 25 through it as well as a couple other people putting rounds through it yesterday. My brother then wanted to try to shoot it. Again, first time he chambered a round and pulled the trigger, just a click. When I took the lower off, this time the retainer spring was partially caught in the bolt carrier assembly. This time no one messed with the stock tube and I know I had the castle nut tight. Any ideas on how this part could have possibly come out again?

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winchester 94 loading gate problem

I'd take it out of the rifle to work on it. The answer above is correct, the rib on the back of the gate is burred and needs to be cleaned up, the back and edges smoothed out.

Care must be taken to get the screw in straight when reassembling, it's easy to get it cross threaded and damage either the screw or gate, or both. If the front of the gate is allowed to be out of the hole just slightly when barely starting the screw, once it's in and cleanly cutting threads, wiggle it around and get the front in the hole behond the opening before snuggling up the screw.

Soneone will likely be along and say its normal, that if you just don't push each round in all the way, you can load more. Yes, that works, but when properly fitted up, the gate should operate slickly and smoothly to load more rounds. My older guns do so, and ones I've smoothed up also are simple load more into without drama. There's no good reason to put up with the gate not operating well.

__________________
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-

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Ruger LC9 Clip Problem

Is the magazine release overly easy to depress?
If so, maybe the spring is either weak or even missing. __________________
Lock the doors, they're coming in the windows.

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Lee Perfect Powder Measure problem with WSF powder

I'm new to reloading and recently bought a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I tried to use it to load .45 with Winchester WSF ball powder. I followed all the set-up directions including running three hoppers of powder thru the measure. I also have it mounted firmly on my bench, and I use exactly the same throw technique on every throw.

Unfortunately, I cannot get a consistent load from the measure. It might run five loads consistently, then jump as much as half a grain up or down. And over the course of 100 throws, the variation has gotten as high as 1 grain.

I also made a baffle for the hopper, but this didn't have much effect.

I'm weighing each load on a Hornady GS-1500 digital scale, and checking to make sure the scale is zeroed between every weighing.

I know that many people find the Lee Perfect Powder Measure very accurate and trustworthy, but I know that some powders meter better than others. So I'm wondering if the problem is the WSF powder.

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Problem with bullet seating using once-fired rifle brass

Hi folks,

I'm just getting started with reloading and have encountered a problem. I have a bunch of once-fired .243 Win brass that I've saved up. I was intending to neck size only. However, the neck opening on these cases is too narrow - bullets don't fit. I'd expect that, having been fired, the bullet should be loose in the neck until it's resized. But it doesn't fit at all. I suspect it may be due to an overly aggressive factory crimp. It's visible as a very slight inward curvature at the opening of the neck.

I suppose I could just seat the bullets without any resizing, but I'm not sure how wise that would be. Otherwise, is there some sort of flaring die I can get to open up the necks and then re-size?

Thanks in advance.

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.45 Auto Rim tumbling problem

Originally Posted by olbear I'm fairly new at .45AR shooting (have a SW1917 & a Webley), I prefer .45AR to Moonclips too, but found the SW1917 just doesn't like ANY lead bullets I've tried (tumble/sideways @ 25yds). Good luck, & post any new ideas you come up withLike many old, vintage .45 revolvers, your 1917 may have an oversize bore. If you're shooting bullets intended for the .45 ACP autoloader, you're not getting a tight fit and that is murder on accuracy.

Slug the bore and measure to find out what you have, and measure the cylinder throats as well.

If the bore is much over .451" that is part of the problem. When you measure the cylinder throats, drop a bullet with your fingers into the chamber from the rear. If the throats are right, the bullet will drop right through with a slight nudge from your finger. If they let the bullet drop right through with no resistance, they are oversize. If you have to tap them through with a dowel and small hammer, they are too tight. That will contribute to the problem by swaging the bullet too small, so it tends to rattle down the bore rather than grab the rifling the way it should. Combine that with an oversize bore, and you'll be lucky to hit the side of a barn from 5 feet.

Tight chamber throats can be opened up a bit, and if the bore isn't too oversize you can usually find cast bullets that will fit it fairly well. In any case, use Auto Rim cases, so that you can get those bullets to fit right, as they are more flexible than the ACP case in those old revolvers.

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Glenfield/Marlin Model 20 Problem

I received a Glenfield Model 20 Bolt Action Rifle for repair. The issue is that the bolt will not close.

After examining the mechanism, I found what appears to be the problem. The Cartridge Guide Spring is preventing the bolt from closing as the spring does not move up when the bolt is pushed forward, effectively blocking the bolt from closing.

Not having much experience with this particular firearm - and before I pull the barrel to replace this part - I was wondering if there may be other issues causing this problem (none are apparent) and if the Cartridge Guide Spring is supposed to rest in the position that it is on this rifle - all the way down toward chamber. I can lift the spring and the bolt will go forward, but not on its own.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

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Problem mould...

As I am new to casting rifle boolits, I have had to buy some new moulds. I have two that cast 3 different boolits. A bonus for me. My latest is a Lee, in 8mm. A few days ago, I was altering some WW's, and decided to cast a few with the new mould. As it was a very cool say outside, I actually set the base of the mould in the top of the pot to get it warm. My others don't cast very well until they are hot, so I decided to do this. It is a 2 cavity mould, and out of fifty attempts, I might have gotten 10 complete boolits. It appeared that the alloy was solidifing on the sprue plate. (this computer keeps telling me I'm spelling lots of words wrong. If so, sorry 'bout that!) I stuck the sprue plate into the lead to get it hot, but, it made no difference. I've never had any problem like this with my other rifle moulds, or any of my pistol moulds, so I am at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for any replies.

I sound to me like you need more heat. Increase the pot temperature . I usually start HOT until I get everything working right and then back off the temperature to a more reasonable level. Every mold has a personality of its own.

Carl

You answered your own question, mould too cold. I preheat my moulds by setting on a hot plate. I have also dipped the front corner of the mould into the melt to bring the mould up to temp. When the lead releases from the mould it is warm enough. You can also dip just the sprue plate if it is too cool.

I always pour a large sprue on top until it gets to a temp that I can easily open the plate with my thumb.

Thanks, guys. I actually did all of those, but, it still didn't work. I'll have to give it another try, now that the weather has warmed, a little. I was actually trying to get a few made so I could lap the mould. All my Lee moulds do not like to release the boolits. I read about lapping, and tried it on one mould, and it worked. Boolits drop free very easily. I didn't have a temp guage that day, but have gotten one since. But, the alloy seemed hot enough. (so did the mould when I accidently touched it. No, no gloves.) Could the holes in the sprue plate be too small? They don't look very big.....

aluminum molds like to be run at 400-435-f
a slight breeze will cool down an aluminum mold real quick.
I have a 2 cavity lee 45/70 mold and in the garage with no breeze I have to keep the mold moving along to get well filled out boolits that drop easily.
I run it on the edge of frosting.
actually through the frosting stage back to silver again then maintain that speed.
my count is 4 as in fill, count to 4, and open.
I run my 4 cavity noe mold the same way, but with less count time, it is on the verge of smearing the lead across the mold.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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MP mold problem

I know this problem is me and I just haven't figured it out. I have a dozen MP molds and never had the following problem.

It's a .357-125 for my 9mm's

The boolits stick in the mold at their bases on the opposite side from the pin guides. The lube grooves seem very "square" compared to some of the others. I end up losing heat in the pins from fiddling with the mold. The boolits often twist over trying to open the mold, damaging the drive band and the HP. I have repeatedly cleaned the mold and it's been through at least 6 heat cycles in the mold oven. The cavities that stick seem to be random and I can detect no flaw in the machining. It's usable but the cull rate is above 30% (not good)

Any ideas ?

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Problem with Universal decap die

Boolit Man Join DateSep 2012Posts108

Got a bit of a problem,

I have a Lee universal decapping die. Broke the pin on it, no problem there, I have spares. Problem is I cannot get the spindle off to replace the pin, it is flat out stuck. 4 applications of kroil and the biggest box end wrench I have that fits and it is still a no go. Let the oil soak in overnight and still nada. Any ideas?

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2007Posts526

A little heat and swap the lock ring for something else and I use a bench vise to tap the wrench. I wonder how in the world it got so tight?

Take care

r1kk1

The 1 Lee that I broke recently was no fault of the of the decap pin, but its a 1 piece. Ordered 2 from Titian @ 2$ each.
http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-replacement-decapper-pin-90292?filter_name=decapper&filter_description=true&filter_sub_category=true

Re-read post, I had the same problem, I took a punch and knocked the spindle thru from the top down that relaxed the collet so I could back out the nut.
300

Last edited by 300winmag; 03-30-2013 at 09:42 AM.

As I was told when I was a child; your elders will make you smarter if you listen. Then when you are older your edlers will teach you WISDOM.
300winmag

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2007Posts526

Should be: use a hammer and tap the wrench while die is tighten on lock ring in vise.

Sorry brain fart

r1kk1

Boolit Bub Join DateSep 2012Posts49

I had a difficult one once, don't know if it was overtightened or a burr on the collet nut but it cut into the threads when backing out. I clamped it in vice across the flats and used a large ratchet to finally break it loose. Threads were a little flattened but re assembled fine.

I had a decap pin break in mine after only decapping 10 cases. Called Lee and they replaced the pin. I bought a few replacements also. but haven't broke the one Lee sent me. It was really tight when I changed it out. I think they over tighten them at the factory.

Boolit Man Join DateSep 2012Posts108

Bad part is no metal bench vise currently, I have a rubber and plastic one that uses a bar clamp for when I am cleaning the inside of a receiver or something just to lightly hold it in place so I can use both hands. I will try the heat. I should have thought of that, I cannot remember if I tightened it down or if it came from the factory.

Reading this thread made me realize that I don't have a spare for my universal decapper. I just ordered two. Now the original will outlive me for sure.

"Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most." A. Brilliant

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts5

I haven't broke one..... yet. A good idea may be to use anti seize. What do ya'll think?

Anti-sieze would work fine. Just dont get any on the collet!

If your universal decapper is out of commission, you can use any large size/decap die in a pinch. I have used an old .300Wby die as a universal decapper for years. Works fine.

Yes I can spell, I just can't type!
Ken

NRA Life Member

"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." Edmund Burke

"The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

"To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them." George Mason Co-author of the Second Ammemdment

Boolit Man Join DateDec 2011LocationYakima, WAPosts137

I have 2 decapping pins on order. I found a spare used decapping die at a pawn shop. Reading this makes me think I should buy it as a backup.

Boolit Man Join DateFeb 2013Posts97

I have 2 decapping pins on order. I found a spare used decapping die at a pawn shop. Reading this makes me think I should buy it as a backup.Yep. Thus why when I ordered mine... I bought 3! For only a few dollars a pop, they sure make a mess of things when broke and you ahve to wait lol

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Problem with lLee 9mm DC mold. Help needed!

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2008LocationMonticello, KYPosts26

I have the Lee DC TL 124gr mold, have made about 500 bullets so far. From the get go, if I am not careful, mold will not line up right, never had that problem with any of my lee dc or lyman for that matter. ACts like a lot of slop in the you cant just close them up, you actually have to tap the ends of the mold to get the square, every time a PITA! I was thinking about clamping them in my milling machine, square, and drill a hole thru the blocks on the back away from the cavity and put a locator pin, big rounded off one. What do you guys think?

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts2

I had this problem and used a little bit of "door ease" to lube the pins. Just a very small amount on the alignment pins when the mold was hot and it cured the problem for me. Just make sure to keep the lube out of the mold cavities.

This is common with Lee moulds. Lee has a help video that says when closing the mould, hold it vertically. Yes, it works, but it is a PITA. Check your hinge bolt to make sure it is just tight enough to allow free opening and you don't have to fight it. Good call on lubing the locator pins. This is a must on all moulds, and critical on Lees. Synthetic 2-stroke oil and Bullplate are the best things to use. Bullplate can be bought from Bullshop, a member here. Like sawzall said, no lube in the cavities.

Set the mould on a horizontal surface, then close it. My first mould was a Lee and had the same problem, but I found the solution in the forum's archive. Since the, I automatically use the method to close all my moulds, regardless of brand.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Problem with lLee 9mm DC mold. Help needed!

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2008LocationMonticello, KYPosts26

I have the Lee DC TL 124gr mold, have made about 500 bullets so far. From the get go, if I am not careful, mold will not line up right, never had that problem with any of my lee dc or lyman for that matter. ACts like a lot of slop in the you cant just close them up, you actually have to tap the ends of the mold to get the square, every time a PITA! I was thinking about clamping them in my milling machine, square, and drill a hole thru the blocks on the back away from the cavity and put a locator pin, big rounded off one. What do you guys think?

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts2

I had this problem and used a little bit of "door ease" to lube the pins. Just a very small amount on the alignment pins when the mold was hot and it cured the problem for me. Just make sure to keep the lube out of the mold cavities.

This is common with Lee moulds. Lee has a help video that says when closing the mould, hold it vertically. Yes, it works, but it is a PITA. Check your hinge bolt to make sure it is just tight enough to allow free opening and you don't have to fight it. Good call on lubing the locator pins. This is a must on all moulds, and critical on Lees. Synthetic 2-stroke oil and Bullplate are the best things to use. Bullplate can be bought from Bullshop, a member here. Like sawzall said, no lube in the cavities.

Set the mould on a horizontal surface, then close it. My first mould was a Lee and had the same problem, but I found the solution in the forum's archive. Since the, I automatically use the method to close all my moulds, regardless of brand.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Problem with 358-125-2R

Boolit Man Join DateSep 2012Posts105

So here are a few problems I am having. Most likely this is technique driven as I am very new to this.

1. One of the wood pieces on the handle has now come off twice. I assume the best way to remedy this is with epoxy, correct or insane?

2. I am getting an astronomical number of rejects. My mold is clean (cleaned three times, brake cleaner, soap water and stiff brush), this is not even counting the first 10 casts I do to heat up the mold, I do not have a hot plate yet but the mold is heated in an oven on 400 for 30 minutes prior, at least that is how I did it this morning, like I said I am new to this. I am having primarily wrinkles and a few instances where it looks like someone has taken a knife to the bullet and made a cut in it a millimeter deep or so. The % of rejects today was 80%.
3. I have one cavity that WILL NOT drop the bullet out even after significant tapping, this is the fourth from the bottom (handle end) I end up having to manually remove this bullet, the fifth bullet from the bottom is also very difficult to remove and requires significant tapping usually.
4. The sprue plate pivot bolt (best name I can figure out for it) is coming often, I had to tighten it twice in about 50 pours today.
5. Today started having some ?filets? of lead at the very bottom of the bullet on about 10% of the bullets. I was making sure the handles were fully closed and the sprue plate fully closed.

I am lubing with bullplate per instructions, my lead is at approx 700 per my thermometer, this particular cast is with cleaned range lead. I will post pictures later hopefully.

Any ideas I would greatly appreciate it.

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationBanks, ORPosts79

You may need some tin in the range lead. Also might have the mold too far from the spout.

i'm sure you have burrs in the cavity's
or an alignment pin issue.
the sprue plate screw/bolt [whatever it is lee uses] needs a set screw installed.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts9

I had these exact same issues with my 356-125-2R
I did the leementing thing where i cast 6 boolits and drilled a hole in the base. I then threaded a tap into the holes and put aluminum polishing compound the boolits. After that, insert the booolit into the cavity and spin with a drill to polish them. I then took a small stick of hardwood and went over every edge to knock down the burrs.

Finally, CAST those puppies HOTT!!!! I was heating my mold on a 1000 watt hotplate, and then casting quickly. Do everything quickly, except right after you pour the lead. Let the hot lead warm the mold even more. I was running around 750-800 at times. Some of them had some very minor frosting, but any less and they would have wrinkled.
I also found it help to start with the cavity closest to you (on a bottom pour) and pull the mold to fill. This allowed me to have all the sprues connected, keeping them mostly liquid until the lead completely filled the mold.

Here's the hot plate i bought. Spent $7 more on amazon and get free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042W5N04/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

Still took me about 3 pours before i was getting good boolits.

Good luck.

It sounds like you are not casting fast enough to keep the mold up to temperature. If you are spending time in removing stuck bullets the mold may be cooling off.
The other thing I have found with this mold is that you must get the molten lead into the cavities quickly. I open the bottom pour spout up all the way to get the lead in quickly.
Cast as quickly as you can until the bullets start to frost.
+1 on what others said.

Read the sticky on Leementing. I ran into that very problem (one boolit sticking, slowing me down) with a 358-158 TLSWC I had, I was about ready to throw it in the creek when I started ignoring the stuck boolit and just casting as fast as the sprue would freeze. My reject rate fell markedly, down to the 10 % or less range.

_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

Rich - I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but the installation of the set screw
to lock the sprue plate pivot bolt is not difficult. Take the sprue plate off, center punch before
you drill, use an 8 x 32 tap and use a short allen screw. You can then solve the loose sprue plate
issue. Leave the sprue plate a little on the loose side.
Also, it sounds like others have said, you have a burr on the edge of a cavity or two. Take a
popsicle stick and rub the edges of the trouble cavities, gently. Look at it with a magnifying glass
to see that you get the burrs gone.. Pour a little faster - easy if you get the boolits to drop out
of the mold. You just need more heat in the mold. May want to try setting the pot at 725. Hope these things help. Keep us posted. Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Boolit Man Join DateSep 2012Posts105

You may need some tin in the range lead. Also might have the mold too far from the spout.I had not thought of the spout, I will try that, hope not to need tin, that would bring my cost way up over where I want it. i'm sure you have burrs in the cavity's
or an alignment pin issue.
the sprue plate screw/bolt [whatever it is lee uses] needs a set screw installed.Yeah If I need to do all that I will just return the thing and buy a NOE or something, if it is technique problem then I will change, I do not have time to mess with inferior equipment. I had these exact same issues with my 356-125-2R
I did the leementing thing where i cast 6 boolits and drilled a hole in the base. I then threaded a tap into the holes and put aluminum polishing compound the boolits. After that, insert the booolit into the cavity and spin with a drill to polish them. I then took a small stick of hardwood and went over every edge to knock down the burrs.

Finally, CAST those puppies HOTT!!!! I was heating my mold on a 1000 watt hotplate, and then casting quickly. Do everything quickly, except right after you pour the lead. Let the hot lead warm the mold even more. I was running around 750-800 at times. Some of them had some very minor frosting, but any less and they would have wrinkled.
I also found it help to start with the cavity closest to you (on a bottom pour) and pull the mold to fill. This allowed me to have all the sprues connected, keeping them mostly liquid until the lead completely filled the mold.

Here's the hot plate i bought. Spent $7 more on amazon and get free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042W5N04/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

Still took me about 3 pours before i was getting good boolits.

Good luck.

That is how I do it for better control, starting with the bullet closest and pulling forward, I cast as fast as I can, I figured about one cast every 20 seconds, I have bumped up the heat but I kept it below 750 since I heard bad things happen above there, yeah If I have to mess with the mold, it is just getting tossed, I like the bullet design quite a lot actually but with all the projects I have, no time for mold fixing.

I will crank the heat up on the sucker a bit more and cast as fast as I possibly can, if the bullets keep getting stuck and hence slowing me down, this mold is done. I was hoping this was a technique issue and not a mold issue.

Mostly technique with that mold but also there may be a small burr or lead speck that's keeping the mold from closing properly. I use a wood dowel to rub the inside of the mold face to remove remnant lead specks and turn the mold over and look at the bottom to see if it actually has closed tightly. Also cast hotter and faster until the boolits are casting frosty then slow down as the mold and lead is getting to hot.

For loose handles, I use high temp silicone gasket goop. epoxy can loosen or melt at high temps and fumes can be toxic.

A six cavity mold is hard for a new caster to get used to. Mold temp can vary from end to end enough to cause problems. My 358-125 RNFP throws excellent bullets with around 90%+ keepers, but it took me a while to get there. Alloy and mold temp seem to have the largest effect on keepers so I use a mix of range lead, wheel weight alloy, and 50-50 solder, and use a hot plate to keep the mold hot (sometimes I use a propane torch to warm the mold, carefully!). 20 seconds per pour seems kinda slow to me, and technique for casting bullets is extremely important; pour speed, spout to mold distance, mold opening technique, and sprue plate/sprue cutting all play a part in getting good bullets. Polishing cavities isn't just applicable to Lee molds, I've done Lyman/Ideal molds (iron) too when I figgered they needed it.

It took me some time to get good bullets from any mold I tried (I started with a .44 cal. Lee 2 cavity mold and an Ideal .38 cal. iron single cavity), and 95% was my technique. I had to clean (and clean, clean, clean) the Lee mold and polish one cavity (I used Comet and oil, 'cause I didn't want to change dimensions), and scrub the mating faces of the Ideal. If you're in a hurry you can get an NOE mold and see if that will improve your keepers percentage, but technique is still gonna play a big part in your casting...

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2009LocationArizonaPosts691

Rich22: As for the tin, it does not take much to get it to work. 2 oz. in a 20# pot is sufficiant to help with the wrinkles. Two oz's of tin will not add much to the cost of of your casting.

"Messing with the mold" really doesn't amount to much - maybe 5-10 minutes of work. Unscrew the sprue plate, center punch for drilling, drill a hole, run a tap in, re-assemble. No real challenge...

Echo
USAF Ret
NRA Patron
O&U
If a man is in the desert, and says something, and there are no women around to hear him, is he still wrong?

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2012Posts2

Try cleaning your mold again and don't use the Bullplate and see if they come out better. If you get any of the Bullplate in the cavities it will cause this problem. You mentioned you are applying the Bullplate per the instructions but it is easy to get too much on and have it migrate into the cavity. You need to use it VERY sparingly on the sprueplate and top of the mold if any at all and of course apply only with bullets in the cavity. I use the Bullplate and do like it because it makes cutting the sprue so much easier and reduces scratches on top of the mold from the sprueplate. I can use a glove hand vs a mallet to cut the sprue.

Also a slow pour can cause wrinkled bullets that's not likely the problem with a small bullet like you are casting.

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Slug Crimp Problem / Lyman sabot slug

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2011LocationWauseon OhioPosts5

I ran out of WAA12R wads,and a search on here ,Guys were claiming they were using WAA12
white wads.
I tried these,and have not been able to get a good crimp. [I am using AA hulls]
I tried a bunch of Test loads with the WAA12 wads,and used [in a MEC 600 jr] from 40 to 90
Pounds of wad pressure.
I still cannot get the wad deep enough to get a good crimp[I am using 35 gr.4756 powder]
My crimp flares out,and when I do the final crimp,there is a hole in the middle of the fold,and the OAL is longer than a standard case.
I took them outside,and tried to feed them through my 870,and Savage,and the flared case end sometimes hangs up.
I tried the claybusters substitute,and there is a rib,full length down the center of each wad petal,and forcing a sabot slug in,would bulge the case,and it would not chamber.
When I originally tested this mold when it came out,I tried 5 different powders,and the 4756 gave the best accuracy,and best Vel.
We have a shotgun steel challange at the end of the month at our club,and it looks like I am going to have to buy slugs for now!
Can anyone tell me what wad will substitute,and actually work?
With the WAA12R wad,I could seat the wad,and drop the slug in,but with the WAA12 ,I had to drop it in the wad,and seat wad/slug together.
The wad sits so high in the case,the wad flares in with the old crimp,and trying to force the slug in,pushes the petals down into the hull.
I tried to take a claybusters wad,and use a wood gouge to take the rib out,and the base inside is smaller,and the slug will not seat all the way.
H E L P !

Sounds like you better go back to the waa12r the regular AA white wad is for 1 1/8 target loads and the AA12R is for heavier field and magnum loads. So the red wad has a much shorter cushion section than the white wad they aren't interchangeable. You shouldn't have to much problem finding them. FB

"Somebody's gotta go back and get a sh*tload of dimes"
Slim Pickens in Blazing Saddles

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationThe MittenPosts110

I use the waa12r wads with mine not air what I will use when the run out I think there is a claybuster wad that matches the was12r CBWCB113812 so you may want to cheek that out another option is to cut the piston portion out of the white wads since its not really necessary with a slug and just us the seal from the bottom and the cup

silverman1:
Welcome to the CastBoolits.
I use the WAA12 wads, but there is a change in the powder, and charge. I use 30 grains pof Herco, as compared to your 35 grains of 4756. That would be one of the issues. Also, one cannot just indiscriminately change componants (wads) from one height to a taller cusion height without causing problems. If I wanted to change to a WAA12R wad, I would have to change to a different powder also.
If you have a shotshell reloaders manual, you need to check the loads for your particular case, powder, and the wad you are going to be using.
Reguards
Jack

Boolit Master Join DateMay 2009Posts668

Good morning SilverMan, here is the gauge I use before I start to develop a new load:

choose your powder and wad wisely based on your hull space.

Here are some of the choices of wads that I have check them for height.

Did you know 40 to 60 lbs wad pressure is normal and in case of Herco the powder company reccomends 100lbs if I'm not mistaken or drunk right now!

Look carefully and you will see, I use a nitro card below slug, in wad and in some cases even two!

Life is short and we got to do what ever it takes to make us happy.
Enjoy it while you are at it!

Warmest regards,
Ajay
BlazingSabots@Gmail.com
Blazing Sabots, LLC
http://www.blazingsabots.com/
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Assembled "stack height" is the key with using AA hulls.
Ajays pictures are "PRICELESS" when it comes to illustrating this. Noting the payload differences in the Win Red and White wads are pretty significant too. I have been using the Claybuster equivalents for 2-3 years now, as the Win AA red have been discontinued for 5+ years, without issue.
AA hulls while plentiful, may not always be the ideal choice for everything used in loading the Lyman Sabot slug.
Pete

Something you might try is to cut the gas seal and cushion legs of your white wads and use the gas seal over the powder then cut fiber wad spacers to go under the shotcup. That may allow you to use what you have available ~ length of fiber wad set to give good crimp. Hard card wads may work too but I would drop the powder charge a few grains just because there won't be as much "give" in the cushion so effectively less volume.

It is worth a try if you can't find what you need.

Longbow

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Sizer Lapped to .4025, Bore Slugged at 0.4000, is this a problem?

Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2013Posts53

I slugged my bore and it measured 0.4000, my Lee Sizer was sizing at 0.4005... I got a little distracted while lapping the sizer and it is now sizing at 0.4025, is this going to be a problem for me when I shoot these boolits? This is for a 10mm and a 0.40SW... thanks!

Depending on the alloy you use you may see a .0005" spring back so your boolits may be .403" after sizing if they are that large from the mold. Might cause chambering issues. If not should be good to go.

Depending on the alloy you use you may see a .0005" spring back so your boolits may be .403" after sizing if they are that large from the mold. Might cause chambering issues. If not should be good to go.
If they will chamber, they will be fine.

I usually shoot for .002 to .003 over.

.

First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.

Where is John Galt?

(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
.

"If they will chamber, they will be fine."

Yup. I use a .401 sizing die for all my .40 S&W and 10mm. Never a problem.

I use .358 for my 9mm & .380 too.

Last edited by Rattlesnake Charlie; Yesterday at 06:58 PM. Reason: all 9mm info

I have driven a .456 boolit down a .452 bore with zero issues.

Cat

Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I'm armed.)

Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2013Posts53

thanks men, i appreciate the feedback...

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Slight problem with RCBS Piggyback

Been using the RCBS Piggyback on my Rockchucker for years without any issues but recently have been having problems with the return spring on the powder measure hanging up and not pulling the actuator rod back into position. I have disassembled the powder measure and cleaned it, made sure there were no burrs on the steel powder drop cylinder and can't seem to stop it from hanging up. My next step was going to be going to the hw store and try to find a stronger spring to return the cylinder to the correct position. It has been progressively getting worse and does it almost every pull of the handle now.....very frustrating. Anybody have any experience with this problem that can help ? I have also tried rotating the powder drop tube at every possible position to try to get a straight as possible pull on the spring to no avail.

Mmm. I too have been running a Piggyback for some years. Never had that as an issue.

I have found from time to time that burrs & rough edges can cause major hangups. I'd look for some.

Keep us posted will ya? Could happen to me!

Cat

Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I'm armed.)

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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