Barnes match burner data needed .224

As long as the Barnes bullet has the same profile as the Sierra bullet of the data you found, you can use the same data for your Barnes bullet that they used for the Sierra.

Use whatever OAL that works in your rifle. If it fits, and it the sweet spot for your rifle, and everything goes good, use the OAL that you want. I'm working on a .308 right now, where my OAL is .225" longer than what it says in the manual, but that OAL fits my rifle without touching the lands at all.

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Smith & Wesson help needed

Assuming that it's .38 Special, it appears to be a run of the milll war time Military & Police Hand Ejector, or pre Model 10 as it is commonly known.

It appears, however, that the cylinder is a replacement.

In order for anyone to give you more information, you'll need to describe any markings that you might find on the gun.

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Help needed regarding the .22 Hornet. Please.

Yesterday, 03:03 PM Originally Posted by bsn The Lee collet die takes some practice to get the correct "feel" it takes a lot of pressure rotate it at least 120 degrees and repeat if you go over 25lbs it wont make a difference but you do want to pull forcefully on the handle of the press. After you get the hang of it it goes pretty quickly. Personally I thing the Lee collet dies are the best neck size dies available even though they cost a fraction of the cost of other manufacturers. As far as seating depth seat a dummy round long and mark the bullet with a magic marker chamber it and look for any marks, keep seating it deeper until the marks no longer appear then seat just a little futher, use that as a starting point and go from there.Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
So would i be right in thinking that i'm likely to get the best accuracy by getting the bullet as close to the lands as possible, but without touching them?
Apologies for being dim, but whats the theory behind rotating the round 120 degrees?
Also, when i raise the ram into the die, it sometimes it feels as though the bullet passes through the collet, but then it stops and catches on the start of the edge of the brass neck. If i then wriggle the bullet head about with my finger, and put abit of pressure on the ram the brass then pops through the collet jaws. Is this normal??

Also, are there any "stickies" or "blogs" on this forum for .22 Hornet tried and tested best loads?
I have done a search, but may not be putting the right info in as it hasn't brought up anything as of yet?
Cheers
Jamie

Last edited by Jamie.s; Yesterday at 03:10 PM. Yesterday, 05:13 PM The Hog Whisperer (Administrator)There's two types of Lee collet dies, and I think that is part of the confusion. One is for resizing cases. The other is the factory crimp die. I think you have the factory crimp die, and no, you don't need to rotate the case for it to work correctly.

Let's suggest backing up a bit. While the crimp may be beneficial, if you are new to reloading, I would suggest doing your load development without it just yet. Get a little experience under your belt before you put too many variables into the mix.

Later when you have a good load, go back and experiment with crimping and see if it helps. It might, at the slight cost to brass life (the case mouths will wear out faster). Only you can decide if it's worth it.

By the way, it's probably catching on the case mouth for one of several reasons: either the case mouths are flared too much, they are rough from being trimmed but not deburred, or the inside of the crimp collet is a little rough and needs to be polished out further. I have actually had to run a case into a regular crimping die first, then the collet-type crimper, to avoid the same problem. To be fair it was a collet I made myself, so Lee can't get blamed for that instance.

Anyway - you might find that after you use the brass a few times, it goes into the collet die easier. By the way the Lee Factory Crimp die is not adjustable for position on the case, unless you have a lathe and want to shorten the collet a tiny bit.

Some folks do rotate the case a time or two while seating bullets. It may help bullets seat straighter - but in my experience, if bullets aren't seating straight, you have a problem that needs to be solved first. I don't use any of the collet-type resizing dies, so I don't know if rotating it and running it in the die again makes any difference.

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load data needed

I am just starting to load cast bullets for my 9mm. I am shooting a Walther P99 and love the gun. I received a mold from a group buy. I got the NOE bevel base 9mm mold. My bullets ate dropping at 136 grain hollow point. I only have to powders to use for this. I have bullseye and herco. Can some one post start and loads and max loads for 136 grain bullet for herco and bullseye powder. I know would suggest this powder or try this other powder but right now my local sports store is out. I have 2 pounds each of these powders.
Thanks
garbear

Garbear

Have a manual? I'd use low start data of relative weight jacketed bullet. Work up for function, then accuracy.

I support your right to keep and arm bears.

herco is a click slower than unique, many times I have just started with starting unique data and worked from there.
I generally end up about a grain higher.
you'll have a pretty full case with it in the 9m though.
i'd just start with 124 gr data for the bulls eye.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2008LocationAmado, AzPosts63

Have a manual? I'd use low start data of relative weight jacketed bullet. Work up for function, then accuracy.This. Manuals are far more than just a collection of load data; every hand loader needs at least one good manual/handbook. Lyman has been my choice for decades, but I also have many by Speer, Hornady and etc.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Herco is not listed for the 9mm - so it is not a good choice. It is too slow a powder.

You can start with a light load of Bullseye as it is listed for the 124 gr. Maybe start at 3.5 gr. as your bullet is a tad heavier.

I use 231 for the 9mm but Blue Dot will likely give the maximum velocity if that is what turns your crank.

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Brass 300 WSM cases needed

Originally Posted by jodum Does anyone have any brass 300 WSM cases they can spare? Name your price.
Midway has the Norma 20 pieces in stock, says available and ready to ship.

Norma Reloading Brass 300 Winchester Short Mag (WSM)

This place says they have 7 bags/boxes with 25 pieces each available, once fired nickel brass.

https://www.diamondkbrass.com/.300-WSM-25.html

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Erma La22 help needed.

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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savage 64 magazine help needed

i want to take my mags apart for a good cleaning but cant get the base plate off, im pulling on the little tab pretty hard and it only moves a millimeter or so, is there some trick to it that im not seeing?

thanks for any help,
david

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Advice needed with ingot mold

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts6

Yesterday was my first attempt at boolit casting. I have watched many videos and read a great deal on this forum as well as others. I am glad to say most everything went well. All of my equipment (pot, ingot molds, bullet mold) is RCBS. The alloy I am using is RotoMetals #2 Lyman. I am also using an Auber PID controller to control my pot temperature. The only real problem I have is getting ingots to drop out of the RCBS ingot molds. The first ingots were from a pot temp of 675F and the second ingots were from a pot temp of 725F. Both began with cleaned ingots that had been sitting on a 900watt hot plate with the setting on high. I did not know how long to wait after pouring into the ingots before I tried to drop them. The very first ones did not drop at 10 minutes so I tried every 10 minutes to see if cooling would help. It didn't. I finally had to pry them out with a screwdriver. After that I would let them cool for about 5 minutes and then turned the molds upside down and banged them really hard on the damp towel I had on the table. It took a lot of hard banging to get them to drop out. Maybe this is normal, but if not, I would appreciate some advice.

I also tried to mold a few boolits from my RCBS .44-40 cowboy mold. This went pretty well. I began at 675F but had wrinkled boolits. I walked this temperature up 10F at a time until the wrinkles went away at 725F and boolits are shiny. Just wondering if this is a normal temperature for the RotoMetals Lyman #2 alloy?

I've used my Lyman cast iron ingot mold for decades and they just drop right out after they solidify. It's been too long for me to remember what happened when all my stuff was as new as yours.

Is your RCBS ingot mold cast iron? I also use el-cheapo non stick muffin pans from my local X-Mart store. They just drop out of those too. Some muffin pans have the muffin cups crimped in; I've had ingots stick in them. Maybe because they were just too-cheap uncoated Aluminum.

Ingot molds are the only thing I'll use a release agent on since precision is not a goal.

Your temp sounds about right to me. When I started casting, thermometers and electronic gizmos were pretty much unheard of. I learned to judge temps by feel and outcome and that's how I do it still. The artsy-fartsy part of the process to me.

Last edited by ku4hx; Today at 03:23 AM.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts6

Yes, the RCBS ingot mold is cast iron.

Boolit Master Join DateApr 2005LocationKansas US of APosts831

Sounds to me like the alloy was "tinning" to the ingot molds. Yes nice and bright and clean is nice. But not in this case. It will make the lead stick to the mold.
I know what you are thinking. This guy is a nut. Boolits drop out of my boolit mold. Yeah the mold is round too. The ingot mold is square and you have 5 flat areas of contact.
Get a candle or acetylene torch and put a good coating of soot all over your ingot mold. They should drop right out in just a few minutes.
Jeff

I have 1/2 a dozen different brand ingot molds, including the Lee aluminum [use different brands to identify the different leads/alloy's] but always have a large plank or block of wood to thump them on to get the ingots' out.........some stick at times, most just fall out.

"Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so too."

Why are you heating up your ingot molds? That don't make sense, unless you are wanting a perfect ingot like you would trying to make a boolit.
Ingot molds don't need heated up. Just pour your lead in, solidify, dump. Repeat

I season my cast iron ingot molds just like cooking with them.. when new wipe cooking oil on them , put in oven and heat at 300 for about 20 minutes .. after that ingots just fall right out .. no banging at all

I just let mine rust. Not to the point of flaking but a good coating. No sticking ever.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationSpace Coast, FLPosts603

I would first confirm that there are no high areas in ingot mold. I polished the inside of my aluminum Lyman's and they fall out. I also have a 1" aluminum plate I pour and flop on, big heat sink. I have small fan set up to blow stink off top of pot and breeze ingot plate on backside. The cast iron will take longer to cool. The 700 temp is what I shoot for. Gtek

I do that is while the lead is still a little soft it helps to make 'em flat and stack better.I used to do that too. Now days I just dump 'em on the garage concrete floor and when they've cooled pitch 'em into one of several 5 gallon buckets. Buckets that're already in the storage location under the casting bench.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

I have the RCBS CI molds also. Along with Lee aluminum ones. Never a problem from cast ONE.

If you have this problem, use a release agent. Mica powder is excellent for this. Just dust the inside with a bit before and during the session and all your ingots will drop right out. You can even use the colored mica powders sold at craft stores for painting purposes. The powder goes a long way.

Have not tried graphite which is available everywhere. Pretty messy but should work a;so.

I season my cast iron ingot molds just like cooking with them.. when new wipe cooking oil on them , put in oven and heat at 300 for about 20 minutes .. after that ingots just fall right out .. no banging at allI bought my cast iron ingots molds (Lyman and Saeco) used. someone seasoned them for me...by letting them get rusty...rust is a great release agent

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

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Advice needed with ingot mold

SMOKE 'EM! I'm the first to say don't smoke a boolit mold, but for ingots it's the thing to do to get the ingots to release. Another trick to do is if the molds are cast iron, to sit them out in the rain, then let them rust. The rust will provide a sort-of mold release and condition them so they never stick again.

I have a bunch of the Lyman ingot molds, I start them cold, then use them hot after dumping the first cast, they never stick. But they've been used a LOT!

Also a couple of the lee molds, they're aluminum, they work well too. That one pic shows a muffin tin, it makes 2.5 pound ingots that fit well in my preo-20 Lee. The big mold in the lower right corner is made of 3" ship & car channel, a buddy with a fab shop made it out of scrap. He borrowed it to me, I said I'd buy it, no sale, I said make another one, he said he's too busy!

Paul, the key to good fill-out and crisp shoulders is not the temp of the lead, but the temp of the mold. Since you have a hot plate, put that mold on the hot plate, pre-heat it. Get the mold up to temp, you should be able to cast great boolits with that Lyman #2 at no more than 700 degrees! Temps higher than 725 for the molten lead will oxidize that valuable tin at a much faster rate. Once oxidized, it can no longer help for mold fill-out and the strength it provides.

Using sawdust as a flux is also the best way to return oxides to the metallic state. Also, allowing the charred sawdust to stay on the surface of the melt, provides an oxygen barrier on top of the molten lead. It prevents, or at least greatly reduces oxide formation.

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hp mould,looking to buy,tips or advice needed

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2013Posts5

I'm a newbie looking for a hp mould for my 44. Would prefer pb. would like a "Keith style" nose but hp'ed like a converted 240gn swc. I havent found any available yet. Double or single cavity. All my moulds are Lyman"lucked out with good ones" Thanks in advance.

Last edited by jasent; 04-26-2013 at 03:29 PM.

Either get a Cramer type HP mold from one of the custom makers, my experience
with MP molds is that they are superb quality and easy to cast with. Or have Erik at
Hollowpoint Services will convert Lyman or RCBS molds to Cramer or his own style
similar to Cramer HP for a reasonable price with superb workmanship.

RCBS 44-250-K (Keith 250 SWC) is a really fine quality mold and having one converted
by Erik would be a great choice. If you can find an MP clone of the H&G 503 design
(Keith 250 SWC) it would be also superb. Miha (MP Molds) makes batches of group buy
molds so does not always have a particular design available.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2013LocationColoradoPosts24

Check with NOE molds. They may have what you are looking for. I recently picked up a 45 ACP hollow point mold. Works great and like MiHec at MP molds NOE offers great products.

I just bought NOE's RG 4-cavity version of the Keith 429421 with HP and solid point pins. Haven't had time to cast with it yet, but if it's as good as my .38 Webley mold, I'll be a happy camper. Not sure when Swede plans to do another run - this batch didn't last long.

WWJMBD?

I like my science WEIRD.

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2013Posts5

Thanks for the reply's. I think I found one from hollow point services that I like. thanks again for the advice

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SAECO #382 3 cavity refurb help needed.

Rescued these at the flea market today($15), brought'm home and cleaned them up. Exterior banged up some but cavities are in excellent shape. However the blocks have a little play in them - I suspect I need new aligning pins (?). Blocks don't close completely either and I see sunlight at the interface - could they be warped?! Sprue cutter present. All other parts need replacing - where to get handle screws, pins etc.? Thanks!

"To crush your enemies, to see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentations of their women". Conan the Barbarian.

Transfer the pins from the male side to the female side, the holes may be waddled out. Inspect the mold faces for burrs around the pin holes and other places and also look for lead splatter on the faces.

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First brass mold and first hollow point begginers help needed

Was lucky today to purchase a brass 2 cavity NOE 360477 mold with pin sets from a member here today with only a couple hundred cast in it and would like to get some info on how to make it work correctly.
From what i have read they like to be hotter but i don't want to warp it.
Also how do the boolets drop out with pins holding them ?
I have other NOE aluminum molds and RCBS molds and have no problems useing them but this seems to be a new ball game to me. I have a hot plate and i'm useing a Lee Pro 4 pot
Thanks, Steve

Steve;
Mihec has a video that shows correct usage of his hollow point mold - it is slightly different than NOE's but the same technique will work with the NOE:

http://www.mp-molds.com/index.php?pr=Cramer_style_casting

I pre-heat my molds on a steel top hot plate. If you have an open Calrod burner, place an old circular saw blade on it to spread the heat evenly. Mine works best on medium. The first time or two you use it, kind of sneak up on the heat. You don't want to overheat the mold. I prefer to heat mine up to the point that I only need one or two casts before it is running well.

FWIW
Dale53

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ML Barrel needed

I take it that you are looking for used as oppose to new. Right ??

Be Safe !!!

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Problem with lLee 9mm DC mold. Help needed!

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2008LocationMonticello, KYPosts26

I have the Lee DC TL 124gr mold, have made about 500 bullets so far. From the get go, if I am not careful, mold will not line up right, never had that problem with any of my lee dc or lyman for that matter. ACts like a lot of slop in the you cant just close them up, you actually have to tap the ends of the mold to get the square, every time a PITA! I was thinking about clamping them in my milling machine, square, and drill a hole thru the blocks on the back away from the cavity and put a locator pin, big rounded off one. What do you guys think?

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts2

I had this problem and used a little bit of "door ease" to lube the pins. Just a very small amount on the alignment pins when the mold was hot and it cured the problem for me. Just make sure to keep the lube out of the mold cavities.

This is common with Lee moulds. Lee has a help video that says when closing the mould, hold it vertically. Yes, it works, but it is a PITA. Check your hinge bolt to make sure it is just tight enough to allow free opening and you don't have to fight it. Good call on lubing the locator pins. This is a must on all moulds, and critical on Lees. Synthetic 2-stroke oil and Bullplate are the best things to use. Bullplate can be bought from Bullshop, a member here. Like sawzall said, no lube in the cavities.

Set the mould on a horizontal surface, then close it. My first mould was a Lee and had the same problem, but I found the solution in the forum's archive. Since the, I automatically use the method to close all my moulds, regardless of brand.

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Problem with lLee 9mm DC mold. Help needed!

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2008LocationMonticello, KYPosts26

I have the Lee DC TL 124gr mold, have made about 500 bullets so far. From the get go, if I am not careful, mold will not line up right, never had that problem with any of my lee dc or lyman for that matter. ACts like a lot of slop in the you cant just close them up, you actually have to tap the ends of the mold to get the square, every time a PITA! I was thinking about clamping them in my milling machine, square, and drill a hole thru the blocks on the back away from the cavity and put a locator pin, big rounded off one. What do you guys think?

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013Posts2

I had this problem and used a little bit of "door ease" to lube the pins. Just a very small amount on the alignment pins when the mold was hot and it cured the problem for me. Just make sure to keep the lube out of the mold cavities.

This is common with Lee moulds. Lee has a help video that says when closing the mould, hold it vertically. Yes, it works, but it is a PITA. Check your hinge bolt to make sure it is just tight enough to allow free opening and you don't have to fight it. Good call on lubing the locator pins. This is a must on all moulds, and critical on Lees. Synthetic 2-stroke oil and Bullplate are the best things to use. Bullplate can be bought from Bullshop, a member here. Like sawzall said, no lube in the cavities.

Set the mould on a horizontal surface, then close it. My first mould was a Lee and had the same problem, but I found the solution in the forum's archive. Since the, I automatically use the method to close all my moulds, regardless of brand.

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30-30 swaged boolits? needed

im sure the 30-30 is a fairly easy boolit to make , i have a young man who wont shoot anything but jacked bullets out of his grandfathers gun .. anyone make em , i could swap brass ,soft pure lead ,$$, , ?need @ 100 -200, 150-180 gr area or a inexpensive setup ? so i can make em ? hope i dont offend anyone posting in this forum , just knew i could talk to you guys , i havn't the knowledge to swage . please
pm me ..bob i could also swap cast 30-30 311041 boolits 3-1 or?

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Sizing resistance - advice needed

Boolit Mold Join DateJul 2012LocationTexasPosts13

Hey all

So I had my 2nd casting session recently, after Lee sent me back my 6-cavity 9mm 356 mold. It apparently had not been lubricated well enough, and had developed tiny lead burrs that kept it from closing properly. That was why I was having so many "connected" casting failures on my first round. I don't want my boolits to literally have wings - figurative ones are just fine.

Now that's fixed as I am now using Gulf wax to lube the mould, so I started round two. I re-smelted pretty much everything.

I came out with quite a few much better boolits. Water quenched just so I could handle them faster. I had a couple problems where the same cavity kept sticking - so clearly I need to look at what is causing that. But, overall I had a much better casting session. About 99% of the boolits looked usable to me. Although I think I am still cutting the sprue plate too early, as the sprue hole area seems to smear just a little bit from time to time.

Anyhoo - on to the next step, which is where I had some problems. I have a Lee sizing die of course, to match my 356 casts. While sizing most of the bullets went nice & smooth (properly lubed & dried with Liquid Alox) a handful of them were a REAL bear to get through the sizer. Maybe about 30-50 out of 1,000 took a LOT of force to go through the die. I'm a big guy - and I was surprised how hard those were to size.

I took a photo of the before & after. There were a bunch of bullets (not just 30-50) with a great deal of shiny lead exposed, as opposed to the duller/lubed surface visible. The bullets on the right are before (lubed) and on the left are immediately after sizing.

010 by ZombieApoc, on Flickr

Here's a photo of the punch. You can see a ring of lead around the base of the punch. I cleared that off maybe 10 times during the session. It had far more metal accumulating there than I anticipated.

008 by ZombieApoc, on Flickr

What am I doing wrong if these boolits took that much force to get through the sizer? Could I have damaged the die? The only way I can avoid putting too-big of boolits through there is to size every one with a caliper. That seems excessive. But, by the time I figure out if the boolit is "too big" - it's already stuck in the die, and it's easier to push it through than pull it out.

Love to have some advice here. I'll post more casting pics shortly.

ZAG

Last edited by zombieapocalypsegames; Today at 05:17 PM. Reason: forgot 2nd photo

The Zombies, They're Coming! And those boolits aren't gonna cast themselves!

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