Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2012Posts24
I have some questions for the group about leading with some rounds I loaded up using commercially made cast boolits for .45 ACP. The diameter of the ones I checked were consistent at .452". They were fired out of two guns, a revolver which had been slugged at .451, and a semi auto which had not been slugged. There was the beginning of leading starting to show in both barrels, and it was pretty much the same. These were fairly mild loads, either 5.1 or 5.3 grains of Bullseye under a 200 gr LSWC boolit.Since these are commercially made, could it be that the boolit is too hard for these loads? Is the lube is too hard? Do I need to make them hotter to get better obturation or to get the lube flowing better? Would a tumble lube help? Am I missing something else?
Thanks.
According to my very old Speer Manual # 8 a mild load for a 200 gr. LSWC is 3.5 gr. Bullseye and 4.0 is max.
Starting load listed at 727 FPS and max at 811 which is not all that stout but perhaps was max. for good accuracy. That Spper Manual does not list pressures for loads.Using a tumble lube in addation to the present lube may help. Commerical caster do use hard alloys such as 17-18 and hard lubes that stay in place during shipping and extrem storage conditions.
.45 ACP bores vary a great deal. I have ssen some military ones with extremely bad bores and even some commerical / civilian marketed ones were feed corrosive military surplus ammo and not cleaned properly.
NRA Endowment Member
Vet . 2nd of the 47th 9th.Inf. Viet Nam Mar. 67-68
Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2012Posts24According to my very old Speer Manual # 8 a mild load for a 200 gr. LSWC is 3.5 gr. Bullseye and 4.0 is max.Interesting. That's quite a bit different than my book. I am using Lyman's 4th ed Cast Bullet Handbook, and for a 200 gr LSWC, it lists a starting load of Bullseye at 4.9 grains and goes up to 6.0 grains.I will try tumble lubing them first and see if that helps. Both guns are relatively new. The one is a S&W 325 Nightguard I bought new about 2-3 years ago, and the other is a Colt 1911 Commander that was built in the 90s, and which I bought barely used. Thanks for the response.
Bill, Go to the Alliant site and see what their recommended load is: http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/default.aspx
I think that you'll find a little less BE might be better for you and your pistols.EW
Agreed. In my experience, 4.8 is a full power load with a 200 SWC and will drive it at about 925 or 950 fps.
In the good old days, this was needed to ensure you beat the "180,000 power factor" - boolit wt times actual
measured velocity of 3 rds pulled during a match.They are too hard and have crummy lube, slight leading is pretty much the norm for commercial 200 SWC in my
33yrs of using them in many 1911s. Make sure that they are actually .452, if they are ANY under that they will
do worse. IME the leading is mild and does not build up beyond a certain point and does not significantly affect
accuracy.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2012Posts24Thanks for the link. What does BE stand for? Agreed. In my experience, 4.8 is a full power load with a 200 SWC and will drive it at about 925 or 950 fps.
In the good old days, this was needed to ensure you beat the "180,000 power factor" - boolit wt times actual
measured velocity of 3 rds pulled during a match.They are too hard and have crummy lube, slight leading is pretty much the norm for commercial 200 SWC in my
I'm not doubting you guys at all with regard to loading, but now I am curious as to why the Lyman manual would have charges over a grain higher. They say a charge of 6.0 grains, OAL 1.235" with a 200 gr LSWC should give a velocity of 909 fps, and a pressure of 17,000 C.U.P.
33yrs of using them in many 1911s. Make sure that they are actually .452, if they are ANY under that they will
do worse. IME the leading is mild and does not build up beyond a certain point and does not significantly affect
accuracy.It did not take long to scrub out the lead with a chore boy wrapped around a brush, so maybe I'll shoot some more up and see how it goes - with tumble lubing to see if that helps any. I can always melt them down and throw in some pure lead if it gets bad.
Thanks for the replies.
Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2012Posts24Ha ha, leave it to me to miss the painfully obvious. Thanks.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationNE OregonPosts2