IDPA Shoot

It is a good feeling aint it!

Did you keep the dud? I always troubleshoot to find out what the cause was and then tighten up my loading system.
J

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See waht you get for thinking?

Yesterday while I was up at the lake fishing, between reeling them in (sometimes quite an interval), I was thinking about lead of course, and here is what popped into the old melon. I have a great time casting 45 hp's for the ol' 45, why not kill a couple of birds with the same rock? Just drill the hp through and use some of them for sliding sinkers, I mean why not?

See even old coot types can come up with a semi-original thought once in a while.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2012LocationSaskatchewan CanadaPosts287

You know, that ain't a bad idea!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Newbie needs recipe help

Yes, C.O.L. = overall length.
From Hodgdon's web site reloading data page,
http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp

115 GR. LRN IMR PB .356" 1.100" 3.3 974
26,900 PSI 3.7 1061 32,500 PSI

115 GR. SPR GDHP IMR PB .355" 1.125" 3.6 957 28,300 PSI 4.0 1038 32,000 PSI

While the FMJ bullets, that you have, aren't that much different than either of the two types that Hodgdon recommends for that powder, it's enough to cause concern.
From the data above, it's obvious that similar, but different, bullets require very different loads, for the same results.
The bullet shape, design and material all make a difference in the loading data.
Generally, jacketed bullets have more friction down the barrel than lead, requiring more powder for the same velocity.
But the additional friction also adds pressure.
Without a way to test each and every type of bullet, substitution can be hap hazard and possibly dangerous.
If those FMJs and the PB powder were the very last components on the planet, maybe it would be worth experimenting.
It would be be better to just get the recommended powder for the bullets you want to use.

__________________
Lock the doors, they're coming in the windows.

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shot my first CMP match today.

shot my first CMP match today. it was loads of fun. I probably should have sighted in my M1 ahead of time though... 5 sighters just don't cut it. it was a small shoot, there is such a small group around here that they do all bolt and semi US service arms at once so I was a little concerned since more than half the other guys were using 1903A3s.

I was using my Springfield CMP service grade M1 which I haven't even fired except to perform a function test. took me most of the first battery to get dialed in but I finished 3rd place. there was less than a dozen shooters total but I'm content to brag about it for a while. as for my personal standards I feel like I did horribly. it may have been me, or the rifle or a combination of the two but something just didn't measure up with the size of groups I was getting. I doubt I'll shoot much more with this rifle... maybe one day I'll get a 1917 or 1903A3 and I'll see about competing with them but I think I'll just let my old springfield M1 be a safe queen for a while.

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Taking guns from the "unfit".

Attorney John Whitehead, founder of the Rutherford Institute, said the NSA is using its snooping authority to gather data on Americans, including posts to various website to provide a pretext for a later diagnosis of mental illness against veterans.
Read more at Cops even taking muskets

Ponder it, if you will.

__________________
"A gun is like a parachute.

If you need one, and don't have one,

you'll probably never need one again!"

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savage model 42?

Register FAQ Members List Donate Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Winchester post 64 Model 70 experts - action screw spacing

Quick and probably dumb question on post-64 action screw spacing -

I picked up a MINT Model 70 Ranger but want to replace the bland stock.

I've seen the action screw spacing listed on different stock maker's sites as both 7 5/8 and 7 9/16 apart. My measurement comes out to 7 9/16.

Is this truly a difference that exists, or are some stock suppliers simply using a "close" estimate? This is a blind mag model, not one with a floorplate.

Thanks!

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Smiths in NY / northern Pa?

My first build and I'd prefer a smith in my general area for no particular reason.
Can you folks recommend some options? I would guess that most are familiar with military and commercial Mausers but ill mention the platform I'm using anyway.
I have occasionally used local smiths for smaller jobs on shotguns, revolvers and 1911's and if your guys is experienced here also, it is worth considering that I could consolidate all of my work and establish a long term (beyond just this rifle project) relationship.

Thanks guys,
Ed

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My cabin in the Adirondacks

Easternhunter,

Very nice display! That 10-pointer is a hefty one. I will be retiring at the end of this year and me and my wife of 40 years will be retreating to our place in Franklin County, Town of Bellmont (hamlet of Mountain View). Our place has been in the family since 1921....stick-built, so doesn't have the charm of an Adirondack log camp, but it's comfortable and paid for.

Nice to see something from someone else in the ADK's. Where are you in the ADK's?

Best,
Dan

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Lee Perfect Powder Measure problem with WSF powder

I'm new to reloading and recently bought a Lee Perfect Powder Measure. I tried to use it to load .45 with Winchester WSF ball powder. I followed all the set-up directions including running three hoppers of powder thru the measure. I also have it mounted firmly on my bench, and I use exactly the same throw technique on every throw.

Unfortunately, I cannot get a consistent load from the measure. It might run five loads consistently, then jump as much as half a grain up or down. And over the course of 100 throws, the variation has gotten as high as 1 grain.

I also made a baffle for the hopper, but this didn't have much effect.

I'm weighing each load on a Hornady GS-1500 digital scale, and checking to make sure the scale is zeroed between every weighing.

I know that many people find the Lee Perfect Powder Measure very accurate and trustworthy, but I know that some powders meter better than others. So I'm wondering if the problem is the WSF powder.

__________________
NRA Member. Proud to own: Kahr CM9 -- Springfield XD 45 -- Ruger 10/22 Takedown -- 1925 Mosin Nagant 91/30 -- 1944 Mosin Nagant M44 -- Kel Tec Sub 2000 (9mm) -- Western Field EMN 176 bolt-action 20 gauge

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Ultrasonic or Tumbler

Good, but not great, esp if you tend to overload the cleaner. If you want the primer pockets spotless it will take some time, 4 minutes prolly won't do it. Hot solution works better than using cold solution. If you don't deprime the brass first it won't really help at all, IMHO. __________________
I'm not just a gun.
I'm YOUR gun.
(Hold me.)

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Form approval times w/panic

Has anyone noticed a slowdown in the Form 1/3/4 times from the ATF with all this panic buying going on?

I'm wondering if people have been submitting more forms and buying up all the NFA stuff at a faster rate thinking it won't be available anymore.

Reason I ask is... the last three I had ran 5 months (to the day), then a couple days under six months for the other two. Had a fourth come in today that took about 6.5 months. Maybe my good luck ran out, or approvers are getting slammed. Mind you, it was submitted in November- pre "Sandy Hook" so the panic hadn't begun.

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Grips for S&W 686

What don't you like about the grip you have?

Target grips are great on L-Frames if you have med-large hands.

Service/magna grips are nice too and can be further enhanced with a grip adapter (like a Tyler T-grip).

Uncle Mike's rubber boot grips are nice on snubies, but rubber grips are troublesome if you want to conceal the gun. Some people find they will stick to cover garments.

Fake pearl or fake ivory grips can be nice if you are looking for a little bit of eye candy.

Stag/bone grips provide both function & eye candy but do shop around for a decent price as they can go from very expensive to seriously over priced.

I recommend browsing eBay to get an idea what's out there.

L frames (like your 686) and k frames take the same sized grips. As long as you make sure they are for a round butt, you should be good to go.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=S%26W+grips&_sacat=0&_from=R40

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Did Ruger ever make a 45 Blackhawk 3.75"

Lipsey has the Ruger Vaquero birds head in 3 1/2. But I have never seen a Blackhawk in 3 1/2 other than a modified one.
There is a company that modifies Rugers and I thought I had their web address that will shorten barrels but I can’t find it right now. I’ll get back to you if you’re interested in going that way. __________________
“Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading.” – Thomas Jefferson.

Politician's are like dipers.
You need to change them often,,,,, for the same reason!

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Casting for .380

Are you worried about the actual casting process or "known" 9mm leading and tumbling issues?

Unless you're casting very large or oddly shaped boolits, generally casting is casting. The actual casting differences between a 90 grain 380 boolit and a 120 grain 9mm boolit will be very slight if there are any at all. Of course that assumes no equipment problems.

If you're worried about bore leading, then yeah you may have problems; you may not.

It all depends on what you want to do and how much time, energy and effort you're willing to expend. The most rewarding things in life are seldom the easiest in my experience.

If your 380 ACP gun is your passion, go with boolits for it. Passions, like miseries, love company.

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Standard lube on Lee Tumble lube boolit??

What happens if you use a lubrisizer on a TL boolit?
Is the lube grooves to shallow to do any good?

It depends upon how much sizing you need to do, what lube you're using, and the velocity you're trying to achieve. I'm shooting the Lee TL312-160-2R in my 30-06s and 308s, but they drop .311"-.312" and I L&S in a .311" die. My normal loads for these are in the 1800-2000fps range, and I'm using my own lube that I prefer to LBT Blue. If you need to size enough that the grooves are mostly gone, lubing first with 45-45-10, sizing, and lubing again might be more than adequate. Try it....

I use the same boolit as excess650 in some 30 cal. I size .311 and use Felix lube. Most boolits carry too much of this lube. I see no evidence of lube starvation so I spose it's working.

"The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen
"It's what we think we know already that often prevents us from learning."
French physiologist Claude Bernard

I used to use a Lee TL boolit in my .38S&W pistols with 50/50 stick lube in my lube sizer. I just lubed the boolits in the sizer didn't reduce their diameter and the TL grooves held sufficient stick lube for that round at least.

As has been said it all depends on your application and if the sized boolit will hold sufficient lube for your purpose.

I tried that once just to see; seemed to work fine. But I wasn't sizing down but .001" or so. Since you can always recycle a test boolit, you too can try it and see.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

I usually do it the other way around. Alox lube on traditional lube groove handgun boolits.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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XD shaved slide release.

Hi folks.

As the title suggests, has anyone shaved their slide release or found a lower profile one to install? I hold my thumbs pretty high, right where the release sits and like a lot of people with big thumbs tend to keep it down preventing the mag from locking the slide back. I tried modifying my grip so my right thumb is "in the grove" but it doesn't feel quite right. I much prefer how high I can get shooting like I normally do. I would be fine if it didn't stick out at all as I've been trained to use an over-slide full hand grasp to release the slide. Am I missing some kind of tactical need for a slide release?

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Over-pressure: how does the average reloader really know?

Once again, I read something that kickstarted my brain: particularly the "Am I doing something wrong" cortex in my "What if...?" lobe.

I have a .44Mag. It is on the short side at 4".

First of all, I have worked on the assumption that faster is probably better for a given bullet size, although I am beginning to realise that this may not always be the case.
All the same, if I want to get decent velocities out of it, I have to start pushing toward max-ish loads.

I have ordered some heavier .430 cal, 275gr bullets (which I hope to launch at anything from 1100-1200fps). I want to put them into a beefy round; dangerous to my target, but not to my gun.
This goal's difficulty is exacerbated by the fact that none of my reloading data feature the powders I use with the bullets I can get.

Initially I referred to materials telling me about this sign and that which would warn of over-pressure (rifle cartridges), and then I found that for revolvers (straight-walled cases) it is really only smooth extraction, loose primer-pockets and possibly non-incremental velocity jumps.

I then read this article (which made me want to rush out and buy a .454 SRH and load it with 45 Colt!!) linked in another thread and there I find examples that show even the primer and extraction signs are in fact fairly useless because sometimes they do not warn you of danger until well into very high pressures. That's like a seat-belt that only works if it is run over by a tank, but not if you drive into a wall!
In other words, you could have a load showing no sign of over pressure, yet with PSI at well over the SAAMI max for that round/gun!!

So what's left? Sudden jumps in velocity?

What can I reliably use to tell me, "Yes, this round is still OK. However, this one is on the excessive side and I need to back it off by .2gr..."
Sudden jumps in velocity?

At the moment it seems like a lot of it is conjuncture, gut-feeling and experience.
Well, mistakes are the mother of experience and I prefer to avoid mistakes.

Really.
What is left if you don't have pressure-reading manifold/apparatus in your basement??

__________________
You cannot wake someone who is pretending to sleep. Stop pretending. Wake up. Doubt: ...it's the only thing I'm sure of...-Marsupials: Nature's idea of Concealed-Carry-

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Ar-15 Magazine Question

I haven't had an issue with the mag lips feeding as much as the floor plates starting to bulge on USGI mags.

If you're going to store for an extended amount of time, buy some stainless steel or PMAGs.

__________________
SailSkiDrive
Hk USP 45 Expert, USP 40, USP 9, SIG P226, S&W M&P9, Hk 4, Makarov, Desert Eagle 40, Beretta FS92 Centurion, Kimber TLEII 1911A1, Glock 22, SIG P225, 1943 Rem Rand 1911A1, S&W mod 64, Walther PPQ, SIG P229, Browning BDA 45 (SIG P220), Hk45, SIG P230

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CMP M1 Range Report... finally

CMP M1 Range Report... finally hello all,
I've had a springfield M1 garand service grade since February but I've been waiting on M2 ball to actually take it out. the ammo arrived a couple weeks back but so far all I've done is put a single clip through it as a function test.

well today for reasons still unknown to me I decided I'd load it up and go to the local CMP shoot. as we have a smaller group than most all US service rifles compete side by side which had me nervous since there were more 1903A3s than M1s. in retrospect I probably should have zeroed it long before I attempted to compete with it... 5 sighters just wasn't enough. I spent most of the first battery trying to get it on point. however by the end of the match I was holding my own with many of the more seasoned competitors. there was less than a dozen shooters but I still managed to take home the bronze...

3rd place aint bad for the first time actually shooting.

the groups were not great... not sure if that was a reflection on me or the rifle but either way... I'm satisfied with it's reliability and it's accurate enough for deer though I doubt I'd ever take it hunting.

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Bullet Length 224 and 308

http://jbmballistics.com/ballistics/lengths/lengths.shtml

0.308 155.0 Palma [2155] (Litz) 1.131
0.308 190.0 MatchKing™ (Litz) 1.353
0.308 200.0 Spitzer Boattail (GameKing) 1.400
0.308 200.0 MatchKing™ (Litz) 1.393

0.224 80.0 MatchKing™ (Litz) 1.066
0.224 80.0 Amax (Litz) 1.162
0.224 75.0 A-Max® 1.105

The last number in each line is bullet length in inches.

Jimro

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Another stupid question

I posted about the set up that we had bought and know trying to put a order together for some dies and the charge master but was wondering if I would be able to use the lock ring and that accurately sets the die back next reloading session or not I was told to get the hornady locking dies and agree but there not in stock and would like to get only the things in stock on this order.

And I know I need to measure the rounds each time I change the dies but if the locking dies do any better or eliminate any steps.

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What Life Should be Like - The Laramie County Shooting Sports Complex

We just got back from Cheyenne where we went as a vendor to the Wyoming Sportsman's Gun Show.
While there we had the opportunity to visit the adjacent Laramie County Shooting Sports Complex and meet with Keith Tast, the facility manager. All I can say is - if only we had such a well run well equipped facility !!!
It was built within the past 2 years. State of the art 14 lane indoor range - indoor archery and air pistol - outdoor range which they're building out to include skeet and trap - fantastic staff - Volunteer Instructors willing and eager to help new shooters - Full class schedule including Hunter Safety and Concealed Carry - it's just plain awesome! The NRA has provided grant money to the facility - they offer NRA programs and have volunteer NRA certified instructors

It about brought tears to my eyes. In Metro Denver gun owners are being made to feel like pariahs at best, it was such a moving experience to see a municipal facility dedicated to shooting sports education, training and enjoyment.

This is a shining example not just of an excellent county government, but also of just what the NRA can do for a willing community in terms of grant money and program support.

Congratulations to all involved!

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Why isn't the Browning BPS more popular??

So after picking up a Browning BPS 16 gauge and taking it out for several range sessions... I'm now asking myself why isn't the Browning BPS more popular in the field and at the range??? They point well, cycle fast and are ambidextrous... They are based on a proven design/patent originating from John Browning and used for many years on the Ithaca Model 37..

I understand that they aren't Mossberg 500 or Remington Express cheap... But they are a better built gun than current production 870 Wingmasters (I've owned three built in the last five years)... The fit and finish is better.. They are also cheaper than a Wingmaster...

The only pumps I have that I hold in higher esteem are my model 12 Winchesters and the 60s vintage Wingmaster I owned... I own 870s and a Mossberg 500..

Other than price being a factor.. I'm scratching my head....

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Doglock rifle

Nice pics Bulleyes. I like seeing them.

wonderful to know someone can build a period piece like this in 2005 and others appricate it enough to buy such rifles.

I can't tell if that is a shadow or some sort of safety lock on the hammer?

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More comfortable Glock trigger?

Part of the "perfection" of the Glock is the trigger. You either get used to it, or get a different gun. There is no real trigger job or replacement I've seen or shot that you can get for a Glock that improves it.

Even Lone Wolf's "custom made" Glocks aren't that great.

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Loosening Up Duty Holster

Hi

One of the old books I have on pistol shooting suggests powdered graphite on the inside of a holster to improve withdrawal speed...but I know that such a material has a negative impact on aluminium frames.

If you want to stretch leather = 2 main options.

The BEST is warm water.
MUST only be hot enough to hold your hand in, no hotter...or the leather will cook.
Soak the part you need to stretch in the water, until the small bubbles stop.
Then, taking the now wet leather holster, insert the pistol & close the snap.
It WILL stretch (the leather will almost take on the property of putty & become very soft & pliable)
Keep it in place and allow to dry. (you may want to use cling film cover on the upper section of the pistol to keep from attracting rust)

The second, less invasive option.
Same as the soaking method, but use a hair dryer.
The problem here again is that if you go too hot = cooked leather, so take it gently!!
Get the leather section with the snap on it warm, then carry out the steps as above.

A third method would be to remove the offending snap, re-position/extend the hole by a fraction, then fit a new snap

Hope this helps

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Search engines that don't track?

The folks at Google seem to be aligned with the people to don't support us and our 2A views.

What is the conservative option?

Cheers!

__________________
"Got a shotgun, a rifle and a four wheel drive" - HW Jr.

Rifleman
BSA Eagle Scout

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My first try at 9mm loads

i air cool my 9mm boolits i do a 50/50 mix WW to range lead mix
size to .357 C/R lube and 3.8 gr of B/E i get no leading in my 92FS

kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

Are you shooting as cast or running through a sizer?? I run through a sizer for consistency. If you have a .355 bore, you are fortunate. Many 9's run larger. For that reason, many commercial cast sized at .356 don't shoot for squat.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

try an actual lube and see what happens.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Buddy Join DateAug 2010LocationTennesseePosts64

Are you using a Lee FCD? If you are it will size your bullet down to .355. This really drove me crazy. I now size to .358. With light loads I got the leading to stop. Finally figured out how to put gas checks on the cast bullets and was able to up the powder charge.

+1 on R5R

Pan lube with NRA 50-50 formula lube, size to .357 or .358.

Primarily a lube issue.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Are you using a Lee FCD? If you are it will size your bullet down to .355. This really drove me crazy. I now size to .358. With light loads I got the leading to stop. Finally figured out how to put gas checks on the cast bullets and was able to up the powder charge.Yes I am using a Lee FCD and no it is not sizing down my boolits. I pulled and checked some when I was setting the press up. If you are swaging a 9mm boolit down in a Lee FCD you are over crimping them or your sizing ring is to small. The 9mm case has plenty of taper to it, .009" to be exact. the carbide ring should only touch the case just above the shell holder. Now the Lee FCD and a 45acp case is a whole other story as the case only has .003" of tapper.

I am not running my boolits through a sizer. They are dropping the size I want and are round.

I also think it may just be a lube issue. Most of the lead was forward of half way to the muzzle. Good thing that Randy sent me some Tac#1 to try and I also have samples of 50/50, BAC and CR coming to try. I do not have a lubesizer yet. What would be the best way to lube them, dip or pan?

Last edited by Lights; Yesterday at 08:58 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Beretta mag. question

Possibly a Beretta 8000 (Cougar) mag. Only a guess, though.

Photos would probably help - a lot.

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Night vision scope

Welcome to the shooter's forum, glad you joined us. I have little experience hunting at night other than spotlighting coons, so will refer you to people more knowledgeable.

Might check out this thread too to see what developes.

Scope's?

TNhunter always offers good advice born of experience.

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Good days at the Range!

I've had many good days at the local range, but my latest one on June 13, was pretty nice.

My re-barreled Rem 700, 243 hadn't shot as well as hoped, but I decided to try some Nosler 80 grain Varmint bullets and they grouped 0.4" at 100 yards, even with some shifty winds.

The Tikka T3, .243 Lite didn't like that load as well, but shot 0.7".

The Tikka 595, .223 continued to impress me, shooting Accurate 2230, 25 grain load, 50 Grain Hornady SP SX; making a nice 0.3" group.

Then, it was off to the handgun range. Time was getting tight, but I managed to shoot three handguns, .22LR Bersa, steel model; a Stainless Ruger MKII with Bushnell mini red dot, and a Colt Gold Cup 70 series, .45. Shooting two-handed, I managed to keep most rounds within the scoring rings of a 50-foot NRA target, despite shooting high with a light target load in the .45. The factory hardball rounds were mostly in the 3" black.

The Ruger MK II shoots lights-out with that red dot. I think all the shots were in the black.

Not having shot the handguns for a while, it was great to do as well. All in all, a good range day.

Have you had a good range day lately???

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How much difference is there in a magnum primer vs standard primer?

I just loaded up 100rds of 9mm with the Lyman 356242 121gr boolit.

3.3grs of titegroup and 3.5grs of titegroup(different loads to play with)

I did not realize that I had put in CCI 550 small pistol magnum primers in the cases until just a minute ago.

Max load is listed at 3.8grs of titegroup in Lyman 49th. Then on Hodgdon's site, it lists 115gr boolit at 3.9-4.3grs of titegroup and 124gr LCN(?) at 3.6-4.0

Will they be safe to shoot, or do I need pull them down and start over?

I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.

My 9mm CCI magnum pistol primer tests with my cases, my boolits, my guns, my powder of choice and my charge weight of choice say it's not a big deal with low to mid range loads. No data on near max and I don't plan to have any, but I'd say your fine. Some magnum primers are indeed stronger, but they're not little nuclear bombs just waiting to be touched off.

If you search the web, you'll find hundreds (thousands?) of questions exactly like yours. Many people advocate caution and don't do it, but many offer their experiences and say it's no big deal. If it were me, I'd shoot 'em. But that's me.

https://www.google.com/search?q=magnum+primers+in+9mm&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:eek:fficial&client=firefox-a

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationTom, in Gloucester, VAPosts890

As I have been unable to find any standard primers for sale, but have had opportunities to buy magnum primers, I did. Yesterday I did a test comparing the two. Using Remington 2-1/2 standard large pistol primers, CCI 350 magnum large pistol primers, and two different military surplus powders, M9 and #105, I prepared four samples of test ammo. M9 and #105 powders were obtained from Jeff Bartlett at GIBrass.com. Burning rate appears to be similar to Unique. The two powders appear to be the same, but do not meter the same. M9 charges throw a little bit lighter than #105. The difference could easily be attributed to them being different lots of the same powder.

The test cartridge was the 41 Remington Magnum with 240 gr LBT WFN GC bullet. Moderate loads of each powder were assembled using standard primers, and loads using 1/2 grain less powder were assembled with magnum primers. Five shots of each combination were fired over the chronograph. Mean velocities of the four treatments were compared using ANOVA. There were no significant differences in average velocities, which were all very close to 1150 fps.

Magnum and standard primer velocities were pooled and variances were compared using the F test. There was no significant difference. However, it appeared to the Mk I eyeball that there may be a difference in variance, and a repeat test with a larger sample size might indicate a significant difference, with magnum primer loads being more variable. However, given that the difference is not significant at this level, even if found to be different with a larger sample size it probably is not important.

In conclusion, substituting magnum primers with an appropriate adjustment in charges and avoiding maximum loads can be a successful expedient during times of primer shortages.

I've switched on occasion and with low to mid-range loads,have noticed no difference with 9mm, 45acp, 44mag or 45lc. In a well functioning, well made firearm i'd shoot them up. I would stay away from max loads out of caution but thats me

"Ever since I arrived to a state of manhood, I have felt a sincere passion for liberty" Ethan Allen

Not much difference in SP primers, you are good to go.

I my 357 BH with a 125 grn lead tc bullet and 4.5 grn of unique I have found the CCI sp mag primers make the round more accurate. Although in my 2" S&W mod 10 I have been having some ignition problems. I believe it may be seating depth since the round will go off on the second strike.

My daughter also has problems with setting the CCI's off with her Ruger SR9. Even after returning it to Ruger.

As far as your load goes, I have never used Titegroup so I can't comment on that.

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

It could be an issue if you shoot maximum or near max loads. I never go very close to max loads and have not had an issue.
Use tried and true load development techniques, or just back down a bit.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

I've ended up with magnum pistol primers from trades , all pistol primers no rifle stuff as of yet . Since I rarely load pistols and revolvers to where such primers are really useful , I've used them in place of small rifle primers . Now I will quickly point out that I don't load the ammo anywhere near pressures that would be to much for a pistol primer . The loads were more a means of using up what I had not looking for the last bit of velocity .

I've used both CCI and Winchester small pistol magnum primers and got good loads from both . Now that those primers are gone I can try using small rifle primers for one of the loads . I am interested to see the difference in accuracy between the Winchester small pistol magnum and the Winchester small rifle primers . Just for what it's worth , all this has been with the .223 Remington case .

Jack

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Double Standard

Does anyone else find it strange that while our 2A rights are under attack for the purpose of safety and reducing violence that we are going to send weapons and ammunition to Syrian "Rebel" civilians? I'm sure they are not going to be bolt action hunting rifles and they won't have to fill out an ATF form for a full auto version. Do you think they will send them AK-47s from some vendor or are we going to send M-4s so we can make a sale?

I wonder if the Syrian government in power confiscated their (civilian) weapons sometime in the past and now they are in need of weapons to defend themselves against a tyrannical government. Maybe they are in need of some 2A.

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I want a Redhawk in 45. Is that too much to ask?

I want a Redhawk in 45. Is that too much to ask? With Ruger pumping out as many bottom feeders as they can to feed the frenzy there seems to be no time available to make one little old Redhawk in 45 Colt. I'd say nice things about them if they would let that one wee tiny revolver head my way but it looks like it's simply not meant to be.

Once again, I hit a local gun show. Granted, this was one of the smallest shows in DFW but I didn't count a single Redhawk of any caliber in attendance.
I was considering a 429 just to get me by but none of those appeared either.

I did see a freak selling a 555 pack of Winchester 22 LR at $124.95 and burst out laughing but that's a story for another thread.

Anyway, am I nuts for lusting after a Redhawk in 45? I already have a SRH in 454 but I'm seriously considering trading it in on the little brother.

Yeah, I know there are a couple on Gunbroker but that's not the place to find a deal.

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lubes for molds

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationMichiganPosts116

just wondering what everybody uses to lube their molds after a session of casting? I would like to use wd40.

Do not lube mine at all, takes too much effort to get them clean again before the next casting session. Just put them in an air tight container with some silica dessicant, which once a year gets reactivated in the microwave oven.

Do not lube mine at all, takes too much effort to get them clean again before the next casting session. Just put them in an air tight container with some silica dessicant, which once a year gets reactivated in the microwave oven.Same here.

Change? Not this type. Can we just have a refund?

I don't lube my moulds after use either, unless they were being put away for long term storage, because of the need to get them oil free for use next time.

Mine just sit on shelves in the boxes they came in the unheated garage which is my casting workshop. I have never had and rusting rusting issues and I'm in the damp UK.

Except for long term storage, I don't oil 'em down; when I do, I don't use WD-40. I happen to like WD-40 but for iron alloy molds I use a good gun oil.

When I cleaned the Cosmoline out of my Garands (cleaning kit storage hole), I kept it. I've used some of it for really long term iron mold preservative. As far as I can tell, it works just fine.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

No oil, ever. I spend too much time and effort getting them clean to just put it back when I am done.

I bought a couple old Lyman iron molds at a estate sale a couple years ago. Ed Harris or C. E. Harris who wrote the NRA Cast Bullet manual and supplements recommended that I just coat my iron molds with a light coat of USP Mineral Oil for storage if rusting can be an issue.

There is no need to clean the mold before casting as the mineral oil burns off cleanly as the mold is preheated on a hot plate before casting leaving no residue and only producing a wisp of white smoke as it burns off. I've used this method for years with no issues.

Too much trouble to clean. If you need to store so they won't rust, try a sealed ammo can with dessicant.

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. H.L. Mencken

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Revolver rifling.

I have a question.

I have an old brass frame Richland Arms 1858 Remmy .44 (1970's vintage no date code) with right hand twist rifling.

And a Uberti 1858 (1999 date code) with left hand twist.

And a 1965 date coded EIG (with GLB logo too) Schneider & Glassick in .36 with left hand twist rifling.

And a undated CVA (ASM marked under the loading lever) 1851 navy unfinished brass framed kit gun in .36 also with left and twist.

And my newest, an 1861 Pietta in .36 with right hand twist.

With these guns I think I have a good cross section of manufacturers.

My question is, why are some right hand twist, and others left hand?

Ian.

It's an addiction....

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Do Infrared NV Scopes Wear Out Internally?

Every electronic part has a life span, and some are pretty short, like electrolytic capacitors. I have never looked into the imaging on these, but I would say that it does have a certain life span, as anything that has ever been made to convert light to electrical signals has. I would say it may outlast a CRT, but how much longer? Really, all this does is a viewer that amplifies the available light.

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Glock Straight-8 sights. Who makes them?

Glock Straight-8 sights. Who makes them? I once tried a Glock G26 that was for sale with these sights and I must say I liked them.

I have Glock's own 3-dot night-sights on my G19, but I would dearly love to find some of these straight-8s: my aiming was much quicker with them, despite my greater experience with the normal 3-dot config'.

Now Midway USA stock some by Heinle/Trijicon, I think, but that service does not extend to Midway Germany, so I want to find the names for as many manufacturers of these tritium type sights as possible, so that I can have a look online and if any EU based gun-shops have a mail-order service I could use.

Note this is not a thread discussing the merits of this sight type or another. this is just a request for company and possibly product names for Straight-8 style, tritium sights to fit a 3rd Gen, G19.

Thanks!!

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40S&W out of a 16" barrel? Kel Tec Sub Questions

I have a G27 & G35 and I'm giving thought to adding a .40 rifle, but only if it takes Glock mags and there is a ballistic advantage from the longer barrel.

Does .40 improve through 16 inches or is it actually slowing down again at the muzzle?

Does anyone besides Kel Tec make a short rifle in .40 that uses Glock mags?

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Reloading the .308/7.62x51 for the Ishapore 2A1

I vaguely remember reading somewhere that I think it is recommended to keep pressures under 50,000 psi for the Ishapore 2A1, does anyone know anything about his. Also I am trying to decide what bullet size will give the most accurate results in the 2A1 and am considering 150-165 grain sizes. Does anyone have any info on reloading the .308/7.62x51 for the Ishapore 2A1 they can share on the above questions.

Thanks

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How does 45colt recoil compare?

Hi All,

My experience with handguns is from .22 up to 357 mag in revolvers.

I am interrested in 45colt. I used to reload for 357 magnum and plan on resuming that.

I am thinking of getting single action revolver in 45 colt. Can you compare the recoil to 357 mag revolver or 45 acp in 1911.

Unfortunately range near me doesn't have one to rent.

The aesthetics of barrel around 4 3/4 inch appeals to me.

Thanks for any feedback

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legal or not?

1) if the flash suppressor is permanently attached (welded for sure, possibly certain kinds of staked/pinned, I'm not sure on that) it is legally 16"

2)the measurement is from the breach face (bolt).

From a ballistics perspective (energy) its a 10" barrel though. I'd be most upset that the actual "barrel" wasn't the 16" I paid for, assuming it was t your screw up for ordering the wrong thing.

Last edited by Brian Pfleuger; Today at 12:52 PM.

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Anybody use Tubb's CWS?

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best pot of ingots yet, why?

I noticed in the photograph, that you have added 'C' clamps to your implements. Do you find that makes them easier to use? Or are you using them as heat-sinks?

Yep trixter, they make a strong handle control, and disapate heat, and my with big gloves on easy to hold. This was first day i was real picky. seperated only good stuff. I could tell big time how fluid and clean lead was. I fluxed with hardwood. I have quit fluxing lee pot.

You live off the 5?

workin @ Ft. bragg

I would never hold a ladle with a C clamp. It seems like an accident waiting to happen.

I would never hold a ladle with a C clamp. It seems like an accident waiting to happen.Those C-clamps scare me, too.

Melted lead burns go deep and take a long time to heal -- I know.

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284 Lapua brass?

Are you saying that both bags are manufactured by Lapua? I have Never seen Lapua in a bag????
If so, I was not aware they were producing .284 Win. Measure the Neck, that should clear it up.
284 Win has gotten popular again, Good for them..everyone I know necks up..

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Tacti-cooled out? Try an old-school pocketknife

Anyone in the market for an easy-to-carry folding knife that fits in the pocket — what the old-timers called a “pocketknife” — faces an embarrassment of riches. There are tens of thousands of models to choose from, from high-tech customs to the “knife” that costs $1 at Wal-Mart. In the past twenty years the market has come to be dominated by modern folders, or so-called “tactical” folders.* These are knives that open with one hand, have a pocket clip, have a lock, and using cutting-edge steel. The best of these knives are truly great, but their aggressive appearance and large size can make them less welcomed in public and in your pocket. If you want to carry a knife, but are looking for something easier to carry or less threatening, you need to take a look at traditional folders.

Traditional folders are what your grandpa carried, and they’re made by brands that your great grandpa was familiar with in many cases. I recently got bit by the traditional folder bug and I am glad I did. There are some truly excellent pieces of cutlery made in the traditional style. Five makers are pumping out excellent production traditional folders, and the custom world is giving birth to gems that refine patterns centuries old.

Makers new and old

If you are looking for something that is easy to carry, immaculately finished, and totally people-friendly you could go to the two stalwarts of the traditional folder market, Case and Queen, both of which have survived for close to a century now. Additionally AG Russell, though the professor emeritus of the knife world, is actually a newer maker, having started in the 50s and 60s. And two new companies, Great Eastern Cutlery (GEC) and Canal Street Cutlery, are making what is old new again with truly top-shelf designs and materials.

But beware, as there are lot of junky traditional folders out there. Schrade sold their name and the stuff that goes out under their brand is of much lesser quality than it was a few decades ago. The same is true for Winchester. Buck’s stuff is still good, but not in the same league as the folks above. Careful research and consultation with traditional knife forum goers can save you money and heartache. The five brands mentioned above all have sterling reputations for exceptional quality. Even Case, the inhabitant of many a hardware store display case, has truly superlative fit and finish.

The main drawback with these traditional knives is the steel. Case uses two steels in its production knives: Tru-Sharp and CV. Tru-Sharp steel is a whipping boy for many an Internet hater, but their other steel, CV (for Chrome Vanadium), is well liked. The other companies use very good steel generally — my recently purchased Queen came with mirror polished D2. That works for me.

Case, AG Russell

A couple of patterns have really caught my eye. I like the simplicity of form of a Copperhead, pictured above.The Copperhead is a knife with a single, clip-point blade and double bolsters (the metal caps on both ends).

I also really, really like the Sway Back with its wharncliffe blade and positive handle angle. This is a small, refined, gentleman’s knife, something I imagine opening wax sealed bourbon bottles on Mississippi riverboats in the 1850s. There is nothing else that looks like a Sway Back.

Case makes a line of very high end production knives in collaboration with perhaps the finest traditional knife maker on the planet — Tony Bose. Bose and his son Reese have books filled with orders, but if you can find one of their blades on the secondary market be prepared to be amazed. I have only seen one Bose in person and it had fit and finish that exceeded anything I have ever seen. They regularly sell for more than $1,000.

Ron Lake’s designs are amazing blends of traditional and modern folders and they are, well, beyond most mere mortals. Lake’s more unusual or rare designs will regularly sell for more than $10,000.

Finally there are the work knives. Case trademarked the term “Sodbuster” but Case, GEC, and AG Russell all make knives in this pattern — a very simple, non-threatening, drop-point blade with a synthetic handle, usually delrin or some other hard plastic. The handle shape is also very simple: a straight spine with a gentle curve to the interior. The only flourish is usually found around a large brass or gold-colored pivot. There are other patterns, but the bulk of a Congress or a Canoe pattern knife is something I just don’t like.

The Swiss option

There is still yet another option in the traditional folder market — the Victorinox Swiss Army Knife (SAK). After years in the wilderness of modern folders, I rediscovered the joys of a great SAK when I purchased on my very favorite blades of all time, the SAK Alox Cadet.

The SAK Alox Cadet has the super soft, easy to sharpen steel that all Victorinox knives come with, but its main selling point is the thin, slim profile, highly durable handle scales, and the just-right tool complement. This SAK, like most traditional folders, comes out via a nail knick and it lacks a lock, but this is a very high-tech looking blade.

How good is the Cadet? Take a gander at the EDC thread (login required) over on Usual Suspects Network, a forum that started by focusing on high-end production and custom knives, and in and amongst the kilobuck blades there are dozens and dozens of Cadets. The range of colored scales adds a bit of collectibility to an already awesome knife. The burnt orange and sapphire blue are particularly handsome.

You have so many choices when it comes an EDC blade, but it does you well to look at what your grandpa carried. You might find that you don’t really need the one-hand opening or the pocket clip, and that you can get by with an incredibly handsome, jigged bone handled knife or the gear geek favorite SAK Alox Cadet. These knives are as pocket and people friendly as knives come.

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Shooting 325 and 360 grain .45 Colt

This is from about 35 years ago; I tried out the then new shooting game called handgun metallic silhouette shooting. The only big-bore handgun I had was a Ruger blackhawk 45 colt. IIRC it had a 6.5 inch barrel. I loaded some 250 Hornady HP bullets, went shooting.

I was hitting pretty well out to 150 yards,(turkey target), but when I tried the 200 yard rams, I could not hit them, well one out of ten. My spotter said it looked like the bullet was "sailing". After the match, I had some shells left, I shot them from 300 yards with several people watching. The bullets went to just over 150 yards, then began a corkscrew arc, ending up anywhere from several feet from aim point, to 20 feet!

Talking to a couple of gunsmiths, and reading some stuff, it was decided the rifling twist was just too slow for 250 grain bullets. That 45 colt was traded for a used 44 mag.

I don't know if Ruger has made the 45 colts they currently make with a faster twist. I also don't know if you plan on shooting those heavy-for-caliber bullets at long range. But I'd bet they will De-stabilize beyond 150 yards, maybe closer!

I don't remember what that twist was, that's a long time ago. I'd guess it was 1-22, that number seems to sound right.

__________________
The more people I meet, the more I love my dog

They're going to get their butts kicked over there this election. How come people can't spell and use words correctly?

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question for the USPSA shooters

I'd run a full size gun but other than that I wouldn't sweat it on worrying which gun you have. I prefer 9mm because it's so cheap to feed. Unless you reload...

Ike

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The Ammo Shortage of 2013

I’ve been a gun writer for more than 20-years now, and during that time I’ve developed some excellent contacts in the firearms and ammo industries. Recently, I talked to some of these folks and asked them about the ongoing ammo shortage that’s still keeping avid shooters and weekend plinkers alike from doing what they love: sending lead down-range. I learned that though there are a number of different factors contributing to the current ammo shortage, the main reason there’s a shortage is because there’s a shortage. In other words, we’re in the midst of an old-fashioned panic.

Some shooters locate the blame for the current state of affairs in DC, and conspiracy theories abound about the government buying up all the ammo for one shady reason or another. But those theories are wrong, according to the ammo makers I’ve talked to. Sure, the post-Newtown rush to “Do Something!” may have created the climate of fear and uncertainty that initially sparked the current panic, but that panic has now taken on a life of its own and is feeding back into itself. At this point, everybody is panic buying because everybody is panic buying, which means that the shortage won’t stop until the panic subsides.

Ammo makers: won’t get fooled again

You might think that the ammo makers are having a field day with the panic buying, but surges like this aren’t quite the windfall that you might think they are for the ammo industry.

The ammo makers are turning out ammo as fast as they can, some of the big name ammo makers I’ve talked to are literally running 24/7. They’re also adding more machines and training more personnel to try and meet the demand. But in ramping up capacity, they’re taking on more risk. When the panic dies down, demand could tank, and then the layoffs will start and all that new capacity will go idle. If this happens, then the ammo makers will have wasted millions in buying machinery and training people to use it. The only way to recover that investment will be to raise the prices on ammunition — something we don’t want to see, nor do they want to do.

Some smaller ammo makers have already fallen by the wayside because they can’t get enough raw materials and components to keep up with demand. The biggest shortages we are seeing right now is .22 LR and 9mm, and many makers can’t come up with the brass, primers, bullets, and powder to make any more of these popular ammo types. And the shortages are getting worse with each passing day. Many ammo makers have been forced to raise their prices because the cost of components have risen, especially copper for making bullets. Some other ammo makers that I know have gone above and beyond to seek out components, and because they were forced to pay more they in turn had to raise prices. But they only raised their prices by the amounts they are having to pay to get the needed components.

My sources tell me that if things stay the way they are, that it will be between 18 months and 2 years before they can catch-up on back orders. And this is assuming that things don’t take a turn for the worse. All we need is another mass shooting or terrorist attack and there will be more talk of gun and ammo controls, which will bring on another round of panic buying, longer waits, higher prices and more shortages.

While local gun shops have been enjoying a brisk run on guns and ammo, they don’t like the shortages any more than you and I do. My local gun shop was down to a dozen handguns not too long ago, and couldn’t find any from any of their distributors. Luckily, the supply lines have started filling up again, but only for some guns. (I understand that Ruger has a backlog of 2 million guns, and I heard that GLOCK has about a million guns on back-order — it will take them a while to get caught-up, as some guns are in more demand than others.) The ammo shortage is hurting gun shop owners, because when a gun shop does have some guns to sell, people aren’t buying them because there isn’t any ammo to available for them. I mean, really? Why purchase a gun if you can’t find any ammo for it? Not a good situation at all.

There are some on-line and mail-order companies who have taken advantage of the shortages, especially in regards to ammo, and are charging outrageous prices. I won’t mention names, but one is getting a very bad reputation on the Internet, and a lot of people, myself included, will no longer do business with them. Sure, they have ammo, because they had the money to stock-up on hundreds of millions of rounds. But who in their right mind is willing to pay more than a buck a round for 9mm low-grade ammo these days? Well, that’s what one place is charging, and as much as $3.00 per round for common (not premium) JHP 9mm ammo. When you find a place like this, don’t do business with them. You can find ammo if you spend the time looking, and, needless to say, you will be paying more, but there’s no sense in getting ripped off by a greedy on-line or mail-order company taking advantage of the situation.

The solution: stop hoarding ammo

I took my crystal ball out, and most of the time it is working properly, and my prediction is that I honestly don’t know if things will ever go back to being normal in the ammo world if we don’t change our buying habits. Look, if you don’t absolutely need ammo, then don’t buy it right now. Give the ammo makers a chance to make some kind of attempt at catching-up with the demand. I have absolutely cut back on the number or rounds I use in my gun test articles. I used to burn through 500 rounds or more in my tests, but these days, I’m cutting back to around 200 rounds for a gun test. And, if your local gun shop or big box store has a limit on the number of boxes of ammo you can purchase at one time, then only buy that much – don’t send your wife, husband or friends in to buy more ammo for you, because that’s only hurting us all. Gun shops don’t like rationing ammo, either — it’s something they have to do these days, so they will have ammo for all their customers.

Yes, I understand, no one wants to get caught with their pants down, and not have enough ammo. But then again, can you define what “enough” ammo is? Let’s see if we can’t turn the tide, and start buying ammo the way we used to: slow down, and don’t hoard it.

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looking for semi auto suggestions 400$ or under

i have an sks yugo and an m1a, so those 2 semi's are out , laying the ground floor here is all.(7.62x39, 308)

ive recently been working on my project mosin nagant(7.62x54r), and now im getting close to finishing the project and im looking for my next rifle to get, shoot, and then trick out to desired specs.

Now ive been shootings since age 5, i have roughly 8 rifles at my disposal, and 7 pistols (just off the top , may be more or less ), and i live in California(and, yes it sucks here)

my main application when shooting my rifles is for distance, but i have been thinking that i need a close combat rifle, and a bolt action is great for distance and accuracy, but in home defense its at a disadvantage. so im thinking a semi auto logically. Something roughly in the 308 range or lower, i need a bullet with penetration and knock down force mainly as this will be specific for defense, but i dont want it going through a wall and hitting someone next door, so a lower than 308 bullet should suffice.

Looking at something i can modify easily, and be mobile and durable. tactical stuff can come in later after ive got the weapon and master its iron sights (if any) i will then produce an overview of the design i need and develop the rifle as i go, towards the combat goal.

so any suggestions would be nice, ive looked into saigas and few other semis but anything i haven't heard of would be interesting

__________________
Owner of the 91/30 mosin nagant: Black Lightning

"if zombies, i have gone to get big guns, be back soon!"

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Remington model 14 1/2

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Old REDDING Model 16 shotshell press

Hi

I recently bought an old green Redding #16 press amongst a few other reloading items.

Having used a little Kroil & some elbow grease I have managed to get things moving again, as the two main uprights on the unit were solid with old caked on grease.

I'm now on the hunt to add to it, as a few items are missing.

This is the model of press with the ROUND charge bar - so I need some of the powder bushings...(the flat top/base ones will NOT fit - must be CURVED)

Only has the powder bottle, so I need a shot bottle

No instruction manual - so even a scan of one would be a great help

Only has the 12-ga dies - so ANY spare dies or parts would be most welcome

Please PM me if you can help with any of the above

So far I am very impressed with the overall design of the Model 16, esp. the supported chamber/die system used. Pity they stopped production of them as they seem to have a few unique design features...

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New NJ Gun Owner Questions

Hello as the title states i am about to become a proud new gun owner. But before i dive into the great world of guns and my 2nd amendment right to own a gun i do have a couple of questions.

Now i am not a complete newbie but im pretty green when it comes to guns and things like this. So here is a little bit of background.

I grew up around guns on my fathers side. his whole family was big into hunting and all of that. That was a trait which my parents did not share, unfortunately, as a result i was not truly brought up with guns known in the family.

Like most kids growing up i had a fascination with guns, big guns, i love the AR15 long riffles and i personally dream of one day owning a barrett 50 cal. Long shot i know but i think that gun is a thing of beauty, not exactly practical but i digress.

Now i am from NJ which brings up a whole bunch of new issues as far as legalities and what i can and cannot own. This is where my questions come from. To start i plan on getting a 9mm hand gun and perhaps a .22 long rifle but i know how i am and that is not going to be the end of this journey. I want big guns.

I understand that this is going to sound absurd and ludicrous, i get it, but its not. I firmly believe that under the 2nd amendment i am legally allowed to obtain any gun i so choose to have.

My question is am i going to have issues when i go to purchase something like a Bushmaster c15 m4?? It was my understanding that the assault weapons ban was nullified in 2011 and, obviously, has not been re enacted so there for such a gun as the afore mentioned Bushmaster is legal. But i have seen else where online that in new jersey i cannot own such.

SOME PLEASE CLARIFICATION!!!!!!!!

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45 ACP Brass

Got an Email from Grizzly Industrial. They got 500K RWS small pocket 45 ACP Brass for 25 cents or less depending on quantity. I thought it was a little high but it seems to be annealed and from a sibling to Norma.

A lot high, in my opinion. I guess in these times, that might not be so high, but I sure
won't pay it.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2013Posts37

that's really high IMO. average I am coming across is 8-10cents per that's polished once fired, I am not willing to spend more then 6-7 which does come up a little more often now than a few months ago,

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2011LocationNorthwest MontanaPosts231

that's really high IMO. average I am coming across is 8-10cents per that's polished once fired, I am not willing to spend more then 6-7 which does come up a little more often now than a few months ago,+1...

Any thing over 10 cents is too much..

Shad

I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2005LocationAlberta CanadaPosts832

is this new or once fired brass?

I'll sell you 1k indoor range brass for $90/1000 shipped! Unless its new, unfired I would let it go and buy fr leople on this sight for less money. Unless you have a need for 100k of brass at a time

"Ever since I arrived to a state of manhood, I have felt a sincere passion for liberty" Ethan Allen

I saw that. Way too high I'd say. And since the occasional small primer 45 ACP case brings my loading to a screeching halt and usually destroys a primer, I'm not of a mind to buy any intentionally. I dislike having to sort these cases on primer size and the last thing I want is to have to keep up with two batches of cases.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

I received that same email, and realized everyone is trying to cash in on the expanding reloading market. I noticed they even sell Smartreloader junk while trying to hide the label in the pictures. I wonder when HF will try to market something?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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45lc load for both a new vaquero and 1892 lever gun

.

Welcome to our corner of the www !

Then take a peek at the LH side of the Ruger's cylinder frame.

If the frame's stamped "New Vaquero", then your correct in that it cannot take loads as strenuous as the Model 92.

But, if it's just stamped "Vaquero", it's an "Old Vaquero, with the larger frame - and can accept loads that are fully the equal of anything the Model 92 will.

All sharp-shouldered boolits, like Keith-style SWC's, don't usually cycle/feed easily (if at all) in most leverguns.

I used to use (commercial) Cor-Bon loads in my Rossi M92 .45 Colt for hunting, before I sold the rifle.
The Cor-Bons are strenuous loads, and (according to their label) are rated @ 1100fps - but IDK from what bbl length.

.

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Copies - Landis and Crossman Books

These seem to be facsimile copies, not reprints, but the price looks decent and the data is great.

Rifle-Craft by C.S.Landis at Amazon

Smallbore Rifle Shooting by E.C. Crossman at Amazon

22 Caliber Rifle Shooting by Landis at Amazon

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Bullet lube choices

Boolit Mold Join DateAug 2011Posts13

Being a relative newbee to casting I have experience with only two lubes - LBT Blue and Magma. Of the two, I have found the LBT easier to use in my Star lubesizer (with heater & air).

My question to those of you with years of experience behind you is this ... is there any disadvantage to going with a single lube for all cast bullet use. My limited experience would lead me to chose the LBT.

I am casting primarily for handguns. Currently 9mm, 357 mag, 40 S&W, 44 mag and 45 Colt.

As always, thank you for the input.

Jim

A fella could do worse using only LBT blue . I think the only fault I've ever found with it is rounds left to heat up in a hot barrel sometimes sling lube off in flight . I've found it on two hundred yard targets and I think it caused my shot to go a little astray . Other than that I don't have a problem with it , it let's me get higher velicity that Javalina .

If I was going to stay in the lower velocity realm Javlina and liquid alox have worked pretty well too . I may have a lifetime supply of lube just in the stuff I've got in deals over the years , if there was just one that would cover it all I'd trade it all I think .

Jack

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2011LocationMNPosts240

Try some of RandyRat's TAC#1, its great stuff, I use it on everything from .223 to 45 colt

"The problem with quotes on the Internet is that you can't always be sure of their authenticity.?
- Abraham Lincoln

I haven't been using anything but LBT Blue Soft for more than a year now. Mostly handgun rounds. So far, I have no reason to change it. I have a bunch of sticks of Carnauba Red and even some NRA formula, which works very well, it's just tough in the handling department after it is applied. Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2011Posts476

I went to using 2500+ for pistol and rifle no matter how fast they are pushed.

I got tired of changing from one to another.

Its good lube.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Beer Keg for smelting pot

I've been reading about all of the things that make a good smelting pot, and I have determined that a full size beer keg cut in half would make a great smelting pot. It has a very sturdy ring around the bottom, it fits perfectly on a fish fryer burner, and best of all, it is made out of stainless steel.

What say you????

Bo

"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not"
Thomas Jefferson

it should work most excellent........(holding back sarcastic comment about how much pot you can smelt in a beer keg)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

Make sure you drink all the beer inside first.. no sense in waste

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011Posts280

Are they stainless steel or aluminum? If aluminum don't do it!

You mean you didn't take it back for your deposit??

I also was thinking along the lines of JonB with a sarcastic response to the title...

I believe most kegs are stainless to keep the beer colder but I'm not sure about that, I don know I would like to get a few empty kegs for different projects including a grinder stand, never thought about smelting but they would work nice for that if they were steel, since they are so thin. Actually, on second thought, aren't some kegs two piece? With a liner and a shell, wouldn't they separate after you cut them?

Raisin' Black Angus cows, outta gas, outta money, outta tags, low on boolits, but full 'a hope on the Rocky Mountain Eastern Slope!
Alba an Aigh. Blessed are we few Armenians!
"If you ain't shootin', you should be reloadin' if you ain't reloadin' you should be movin', if you ain't movin', somebody's gonna come by and cut your head off and put it on a stick!" Words to fight by, from Clint Smith

Every keg I've ever seen was aluminum.

Every keg I've ever seen was aluminum.Joe, there are some aluminum kegs out there, but the majority of them are made of SS, they just look dull.

Beer kegs are made of stainless steel, or less commonly, of aluminium. A keg has a single opening on one end. A tube called a "spear" extends from the opening to the other end. There is a self-closing valve that is opened by the coupling fitting which is attached when the keg is tapped. There is also an opening at the top of the spear that allows gas (usually carbon dioxide) to drive the beer out of the keg. The coupling fitting has one or two valves that control the flow of beer out of and gas into the keg. The keg must be in the upright position, that is, with the opening on top for the beer to be dispensed

"Those who hammer their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not"
Thomas Jefferson

I just made my first smelting rig out of one. Holds ~400lbs. A joy to use. Go for it!

I just checked the three I have for when I used to brew beer. It's quite possible they are stainless steel. I always assumed they were aluminum.
I don't see any markings though.

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2012LocationOregonPosts199

I just checked the three I have for when I used to brew beer. It's quite possible they are stainless steel. I always assumed they were aluminum.
I don't see any markings though.
Get a magnet, it should tell you everything.

Better to be poked in the eye with a wet fish than a sharp stick

Get a magnet, it should tell you everything.Magnet no sticky. These are over 10 years old. Maybe stainless became the norm after that.
I wish they were tin.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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PA63 First time out

I have herd that these are snappy little guns. Being that they are Hungarian made and fit like a glove in the hand I had to have one. $209 OTD, $20 for a #16 recoil spring and #13 hammer spring prior to going to the range. The spring change made the DA pleasant and the single action light at (guesstement) #3-4.
First shot at a 3" steel 25yds found its mark, follow ups pretty good with about a 5" group. Me not the gun. I would expect its capable of sub 2" at 25yds all day long. It is still quite snappy but much more pleasant to shoot than a PPS or other similar sized guns IMO. I only put 100 rnds of Fiochi 95gr through it yesterday between me and my 15 y/o son. Never a hickup. Breakdown and cleaning was a snap. This is by far the fastest handling gun I have and have ever shot, my next closest would be a 1903 Colt that is hindered only because its heavier. The FEG is part of your hand. Follow up shots not as easy as say my Beretta 96 or Kimber Target II but the first shot is on target much quicker. Very light and lively little gun. For the money I would recommend that everyone put one of these in there pocket.
And thats what I think. If you disagree your obviously wrong. __________________
Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it.
Milton Freidman

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Binoculars

I've never found any of the pocket size binoculars that are acceptable. I understand that some of the high end stuff selling for close to $1000 work, but that is out of my budget too.

I wanted a good pair to take on my 1st Western hunt several years ago, asked for advice on several forums and ended up finding these.

http://swfa.com/Pentax-8x43-DCF-SP-Binocular-P1935.aspx

I only paid $350 for mine. I found a dealer who sold me a display model at a discount, plus they have had a couple of price increases since then. They are a great pair of binoculars and I don't regret spending the money. Especially to be able to get this much quality at the discounted price.

But since then I've discovered these.

http://swfa.com/Leupold-6x30-BX-1-Yosemite-Binocular-P48061.aspx

They offer a 6X30 and 8X30. The 6X30's are the ones to buy. They are not pocket size, but made for kids, so they are fairly light and compact. They still fit adults just fine and the glass is amazing for the money. They end up going with me far more often than the Pentax. I've been using a pair for 4-5 years now with no issues.

They are cheap enough to keep in the truck and not worry if they get stolen or damaged. In fact my 1st pair were taken form my truck. I liked them so well I ordered 2 more pair. One for the truck, the other pair for my wife's car. If you poke around on the internet you'll find these highly recommended by some very serious hunters. I discovered them when reading a post on another forum from an Alaskan guide who used and highly recommended them.

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smith and wesson 686 model - someone's post on net

"why dont 1 of those make your 686 model 357's correctly... there coming out of your factory with barrel alighnments off badd....you have customers that stand behind you and keep the 686 because they love it, and DEAL with it....this is bs...if these guns are all running through someones hands...thats right there shows they dont pay attention..on the phone you at smith act like us personal gun owners dont deserve a straight and true tool...whats going on with you guys? are you going? broke? lol"

how much truth is in this post?

I couldn't tell you.

Between the grammatical errors, lack of punctuation and the total lack of one complete sentence; it doesn't make any sense. Nor does your question.

__________________
An Internet forum is like having a friendly conversation over a drink at a local tavern.

Some guy at the end of the bar always has to stand up and shout something that makes no sense at all.

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9mm Leading Issue - Help!

Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2011Posts30

Ok, I have been reading post after post trying to get ideas of what I could try next to solve the leading issue that I have been experiencing. I could really use some help solving this as I have been struggling for some time with this.

Details on my setup and materials:
-First off, I am shooting a Sig Sauer P226 Stainless Elite which has a Stainless Bar-Sto 9mm conversion barrel custom fitted.
-I slugged the bore and used a micrometer to measure it. It came out to a very consistent .357. I measured multiple times with the Mic and calipers just to make sure I hadn't misread this somehow. I am very sure this is correct.
-I am casting using straight WW alloy in the Lee 356-120-TC 6 cavity mold which seems to drop about .358-.359
-I bought a .358 sizing die for my Lyman 4500 Lubrisizer and have been sizing to this, based on the slugging result.
-I am using the Jake's Moly Ceresin lube since it seems to have a good reputation.
-I am using 3.8gr Titegroup powder which is not super fast, but not super slow. It will lock the slide back on the last round about 75% of the time.

Using the above, I tried shooting 50 rounds with air cooled WW alloy and I get leading. I tried water quenched WW alloy and I still get leading. I think the sizing die is right, I think the lube should be more than adequate. I think that the powder charge is pretty middle of the road and not in the extreme one way or the other.

One more clue - the leading seems to start about in the middle of the barrel and continue through to the end. I don't seem to get leading near throat or near the beginning of the barrel.

Today after work I went and shot 50 of the water quenched bullets thinking it was going to solve the issue. I was really confused and disappointed when it didn't. What do you guys suggest? Should I go to .359? Anything else I am not thinking about?

Here are some pics of my bore.

If they'll chamber properly, try a few of the unsized .359" boolits. .002" over bore diameter may be all you need. Then there's the usual leading-issues problem solving: different lube, in your case the factory barrel, different alloy and etc. Just be sure to change only one variable at a time or you'll likely have no clue which action fixed your problem.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

I also had issues with several 9MM's for quite awhile. I tried everything from harder alloy to softer alloy, sized from .356 to .359,at least 6 different powders from fast to slow ( working up ladder loads on each one ) 5 different boolit styles, to no avail. It got decent toward the end where I only got very slight leading but was still not happy with the results. I finally tried in desperation PB gaschecks from Pat Marlin and never saw leading after that. Cheating a little but it fixed my leading issues and I never looked back.

Since your leading begins midway down the bore and continues to the muzzle, two things come to mind:

1. Lube failure. Try some others.
2. Barrel constriction. Not likely, but possible and easy to check for. Slug part way from each end and see if the groove diameter at the muzzle is the same as just forward of the throat. You might also be able to detect one by slugging end to end, then lubing the bore and running the slug back down the bore in the same orientation, fitting the engraved slug to the same lands. Push it from the muzzle with a rod and see if the resistance is the same down the whole length of the bore.

Also, have you pulled some boolits from assembled ammo and miked them to make sure your brass is not swaging the boolits down? I'd expect leading to start closer to the throat if that were the case, but it's something to check out when setting up for 9mm anyways.

Boolit Bub Join DateSep 2012Posts31

Titegroup is my go to powder. It does seem to burn a littlewarm and some of your problem might be there. Hp38 seems to do better but with 40+ pounds of titegroup i am continuing to use it. My glock barrel and aftermarket wolf barrel both micout at .355. I size .357 which really helps in the glock factory barrel. I load 3.6 titegroup with the lee tc and load a short OAL never had a problem with slide lock.
Actually with the tc the begining of the cone is right at the case mouth.

Another thing that has helped me was changing my lube recipe I "diluted" the mix with a little more vaseline and added some carnuba wax from car wax. A softer lube seems to work better for me than a harder lube, in your case you are getting leading in the last half of the barrel.

This suggests that you are running out of lube. I like a softer lube that flows more easily. With a real long 9mm barrel it is wholly innapropriate but in my glock 34 with thraded barrel 6.02" (or thereabouts) it helped a great deal.

Your alloy may be a bit hard. I like( for low velocity plinking) 50/50 dead soft/COWW +2% tin for fill out - water quenched.

The last thing is your expanding die. This is a common problem, seat one of your bullets after your normal case flare then pull it. Measure it. Dont be suprised if you end up with a boolit thats.354-.355.
for the lee expander in 9mm you can use a 38 sw expander to keep from swaging the boolit in the case.

Thats the best I can do on no sleep.
Hope something there helps

98% probability you are swaging down that bullet when seating in the case.
You are not adequately expanding your cases. Depth and or diameter. Likely both.
Are you sorting cases by head stamp?

I also had issues with several 9MM's for quite awhile. I tried everything from harder alloy to softer alloy, sized from .356 to .359,at least 6 different powders from fast to slow ( working up ladder loads on each one ) 5 different boolit styles, to no avail. It got decent toward the end where I only got very slight leading but was still not happy with the results. I finally tried in desperation PB gaschecks from Pat Marlin and never saw leading after that. Cheating a little but it fixed my leading issues and I never looked back.I also used a lyman "M" die for expanding my cases with no reduction in dia after pulling seated boolit. Good Luck with your endeavor with the 9mm , I hope it goes better than mine did.

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2009Posts877

The case could be sizing those boolits down, but WDed lead didn't work for you either. Did you give the WDed lead time to harden up before loading the boolits?

Otherwise, maybe try another lube and check for constrictions in the barrel (already mentioned). BTW, if the barrel has any moderate constriction, you will feel it when you drive the slug/boolit through.

Do you have another boolit you can try?

I like the idea of trying .359 boolit.

Boolit Bub Join DateMar 2011Posts30

Wow, this is a seriously cool group. I really appreciate all of the responses and you helped me identify the things that I have not tried yet. I will make every attempt to list out the things that I am hearing, try them, and then report back to this thread until the problem is solved.

The barrel I have is a conversion barrel to convert the .40 S&W Sig down to a 9mm with just a barrel change. This means that I don't have a 9mm factory barrel to compare this one against. The Bar-Sto barrels get good reviews and I don't expect that it would be a quality issue, but we'll see I suppose.

What I am going to try right away
-Try some .359 bullets - I will likely need to work on expanding the cavities to get them to drop larger
-Double check to make sure that my expander die is expanding adequately - Now that I think of this, I think that I am not expanding enough, I will fix this right away
-Pull a bullet out of a loaded case and Mic it. Share results
-Try some different lubes - I tried a softer beeswax lube with similar poor results, but I have some Lyman Moly that I can try
-Re-slug the barrel looking for barrel constrictions - the tension was fairly consistent when I did this, so I doubt I have an issue, but I will do this anyway to double check.

What I will do if the above does not yield results
-Try new powders to
-Try new lead alloys

Last resort
-If all else fails, use PB gas checks

I thought of a couple other things that I need to provide to this thread.
-OAL of bullet
-Pics of the bullets in question
-Details of cases fired from this gun

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2009Posts877

Yes, make absolutely sure your boolits aren't being resized when being seated into the case. I would start with that one. I doubt you have a constriction in the barrel, but who knows...

looks like it's starting about where your pressure drops off.
mark the barrel where it starts.
bump the load, and see if it moves.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2009Posts83

New barrels, are new guns for that matter, some times need breaking in.

Shoot it with mild loads for 300 or 600 rounds, cleaning often. Pressures are higher in new barrels and drop down a bit as they smooth out.

Then see if you have a problem.

good luck

Add 2% tin to your COWWs and let the AC'd bullets age for 7 - 10 days before lubing, sizing or loading.

Change lubes. Try the Lyman Molly but a good soft lube like Lar's NRA 50/50 or BAC will do better.

.358 sizing is fine.

Bump the load to 4.2 gr TiteGroup or switch to 4 gr Bullseye.

I shoot and have shot the same 356-120-TC (and several other 9mm moulds of 115 - 125 gr) cast of COWWs + 2% tin, sized at .356 - .358, lubed with Javelina (NRA 50/50 lube) or BAC and loaded over 4 gr Bullseye in many 9mm handguns and a few subguns with excellent accuracy and no leading. Your leading is caused by a tin deficient ternary alloy, improper lube and too low a psi.

Larry Gibson

Boolit Master Join DateMay 2012LocationRepublic of Texas, District of Round Rock.Posts308

Sounds more like a lube issue. If your lube is running out halfway down the barrel, maybe it's your bullet selection. How big is the lube groove? Only 1 groove or two?
Have you TESTED the bullet hardness and compared it to the recommended pressure for that hardness?

Griz44Mag
Here in Texas, It's the Biggest, Best and Most Important (or we just won't talk about it)

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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