Removing lube from a boolit

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2013Posts22

I know, "Why on Earth would you want to remove the lube from a boolit?" (Or maybe something pithier than that.)

I have purchased 500 of these: http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=65&category=5&secondary=20&keywords= for use with nwellon's black powder 7.62 Nagant recipe. (I'm not allowed to cast my own yet, SWMBO has spoken.)

According to Missouri Bullet Company's website FAQ, they are lubed with Thompson's Blue Angel (seen here: http://www.bulletlube.com/ ), and I'll need to get it off so I can relube them with a black powder-style lube.

So, what's the best way to do this? Should I just throw these on an old cookie sheet and stick them in a warm oven (the Warm setting, perhaps, since Thompson's says that Blue Angel runs at 125-140 degrees?) until the lube runs off?
I know I want to keep the lead relatively soft, like it already is, and that heat can monkey with the hardness.

Thanks for your suggestions.

'Sifrid

I do it often and this is how. Put some paper towels a couple of layers in the bottom of a sheet pan. Now spread the bullets around on their sides on the pan and pre heat the oven to between 180 to 210 deg. Place the pan in the oven and check it every 10 to 15 minutes. You will see the lube eventually run off into the paper towels. Now paper won't burn so don't worry and heat is too low to effect lead bullets. I often buy bullets that come with smokeless powder lubes and have to change it for black powder. This is about the quickest and easiest way I've found.

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2013Posts22

Thank you very much!

'Sifrid

Just go to goodwill and buy a 4 quart pot and boil the lube off. Let it cool and you'll have a wax "lid" that can be removed with a little knife work. I never used Blue Angel so I don't know if it smells or not so I suggest outside on "your" bbq, saves getting SWMBO on the warpath. Don't worry about the heat if the bullets are already soft they'll stay soft. Hot bullet cold water makes a hard bullet, you'll need antimony in your alloy for this to work, and heat will pull back the hardness. Search for "heat treating bullets" you'll find a lot of info. Good luck and welcome to the site. AggieEE

Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2013Posts22

I think that sounds like a better idea, now that I know I won't mess up the boolits' hardness.

I can even save the trip to Goodwill - I have an old, chipped, enamel pot that I can't use for much of anything else, so I'll dedicate it to this!

Thank you, AggieEE.

'Sifrid

You can boil it off or the best way ive found is to put them in a automotive type parts washer that has a pump to continsuly move the solvent around , put them in a shallow pan and angle the solvent nozzel to create swereling motion of the solvent, in about a hour or so they will be void of solvent, let dry & relube.

I've washed the lube off thousands of commercial cast bullets using Coleman fuel or white gas. I put the bullets in a 1 gal can cover with the fuel, let soak 45 minutes or so, swirl the bullets around to remove residual lube, pour off fuel and then rinse the bullets in hot, hot water. Pour on old bath towel, set in sun to dry. Good as new and ready to relube.

Suggest doing the above outside or in well ventelated area like garage with door open. It is quick, easy and safer and it keeps the wife happy if you're not stinking up the house...........

Larry Gibson

I just yesterday removed some pretty sticky lube from my boolits using a mix of brake cleaner and mineral spirits. About 3:10 ratio between the two. Swirled it, capped it, shook it, let it sit for about an hour.

Came back, swirled some more, and boolits were clean. Sifted liquid from lead, dried on a paper towel. Then rinsed with soap and hot water, ready to go again. Seems pretty similar to what Larry has done.

My solvents were all green from the dissolved lube though. That may be destined for my tumble lube conconction.

I like the idea of the boil method, since you can reuse the lube material

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Removing blue hard lube from purchased boolits

I don't remove it.

Just tumble them in LLA or Xlox

See:

http://www.reloadingtips.com/pages/l...et_lube_2.htm\

.

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Removing head from .22lr - Look OK?

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2011Posts6

While I'm waiting on my die from Brian, I decided to make my own die and punch just so I can get some jackets made. I was curious how these looked compared to some of your jackets after removing the head?

Thx,
D

No, those do not look good at all. I would just wait for BT's dies....

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2011Posts6

No, those do not look good at all. I would just wait for BT's dies....Can you post some pictures? I have a mill/lathe and can make whatever....so I can fix this.
Thx.

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011LocationWoods Cross UTPosts696

What you want is a punch at about .199-.201 and the derim die opening to be around .219-.221 Leave right around .020 of space between the two. Or you can take the thickness of your jackets multiply it by 2 and add a couple of thou.

From your photos it looks as though you have too much space.

Last edited by Utah Shooter; 04-10-2013 at 07:39 PM.

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2011Posts6

What you want is a punch at about .199-.201 and the derim die opening to be around .219-.221 Leave right around .020 of space between the two. Or you can take the thickness of your jackets multiply it by 2 and add a couple of thou.

From your photos it looks as though you have too much space.

Cool. Too much space is what I figured was going on. Thanks for the info!!!
D

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2011Posts6

I haven't made rimfire jackets for awhile but have been getting requests from friends that can't get bullets. Here's some I made awhile back from outdoor range pickups.
Cool. Thanks for the picture. I see that they are near perfect. What I didn't know was how good they had to be because I thought maybe swaging the lead core would push it out the rest of the way. As you can tell I don't have my swaging dies yet.

D

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2012Posts26

May or may not help, but Federal cases are thicker and might work better for that setup. IN my dies, it cases problems with stuck cases.

May or may not help, but Federal cases are thicker and might work better for that setup. IN my dies, it cases problems with stuck cases.This holds true for some federal cases. You'll find that when you weigh out your cores, some come in lite at about 9.3 grains, and some are heavy at 10.3 gns.

Sorting your brass can't be stressed enough. A lot of guys don't like the federal brass, but I wonder if they sort their brass. The same holds true with your cases for use in other dies made by BT. Sort your brass by weight. Manufacturer doesn't matter. Do a run with core to match your weights and you'll be amazed at how much better a bullet you produce.

"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2011Posts6

I reworked my die and I'm getting better results. Since taking the picture below I also reworked the punch which has removed even more of the crease. I have noticed that level of crease removal varies with head stamp.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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