348 Winchester Mould Design Cast Diameter for Custom Moulds

My bore diameter is .348. How much larger should I make my mould? Several threads size to .351 or .352. One rifle needs .354.
My neck diameter is .377.
Normal suggestion is to size .001 or .002 over bore size.
I have two different lots of Winchester brass and the neck thickness for one is .012 max and the other is .011 max.
For best accuracy which is more important (factory and military chambers):
1. Bore diameter.
2. Using the largest bullet diameter the neck diameter will allow.

A bullet sized to .352 would give about .002 neck clearance, but over bore diameter by .004.
I know this is not a target rifle, but want to use this same concept for my military rifles. A local club has a cast bullet military rifle matches.

View the original article here

.30 caliber Boolit design

What I struggle with most when designing a boolit is the lube groove configuration and I'm wondering if there's been any recent research regarding this aspect of boolit design specifically for .30 caliber (or other small bore; i.e., .22"-.32") rifles. I want to get a couple high BC (approx. .400) molds cut for my '06, the first one shall be a PB design to be followed by a similar one with a gas check. The .400 BC requirement isn't all that difficult with noses in the 7/16" long neighborhood, with .190" meplats as long as the boolit weight is in the 190-200 grain range (about 17/16" overall length). What I'm having trouble with is "guessing" whether short grooves and/or driving bands are better than long ones. I don't want a bore riding design so I've decided on a long secant ogive sitting on top of at least 60% bearing surface.

MJ

Nah, it's not that complicated.

OK, here's another way to approach it... how much lube should a rifle boolit carry? A half grain? More? Less? Let's assume one has already determined their ultimate boolit lube.

MJ

I just shoot em', I don't design them.

I leave that to smart folks like you.

Ben

If you look at the Lee 230gr mold that Midway sells this may help you out. It is a tumble lube design and I have fired it with and without a gas check with no leading. It does not hold much lube.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

what is the best Accurate Molds bullet design choice for a 1911?

I know there's a current Accurate Molds thread right now. I just didn't want to hijack it. I'm getting ready to order a 45ACP and 9mm Mold from Tom. I decided on a 9mm design, but can't settle on a 45 design. I was looking at 45-230E and 45-230M. Are any of you guys currently firing one of these through a 1911 platform?

Thanks,
Rob

Never argue with a stupid person....they'll wear you out, bring you down to their level....then beat you with experience...

i'd start at the 200-a and work on down.
http://www.accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=8
i see 2 molds i'd really like to have on this page for my 45 acp and 45 AR.
i'll probably end up with just the AR mold.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

H&G 68 clone, whatever he calls it.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

45-230E. That TC is a real fight stopper.

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2011LocationBredasdorp South AfricaPosts60

I have the 45-230B, it is very close to the original 230 RN. It feeds is both my 1911's like slick, it shoots very accurate, and I just love the shape for some reason!

H&G 68 clone, whatever he calls it.

Bill

What he said.
I listened.
You should too.

Tim Malcolm

Mat 10:34 "Do not think that I came to bring peace on the earth; I did not come to bring peace, but a sword."

"All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity; but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible." Thomas Edward Lawrence

Looks like the 230E is pretty close.

Never argue with a stupid person....they'll wear you out, bring you down to their level....then beat you with experience...

I shoot my share of 45ACP's and I'm a big fan of the 200 gr versions. Like the others said, the H&G 68 SWC and good clones are near impossible to beat. That's my Oh-pinion.~! Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

What he said.
I listened.
You should too.Agreed..Bill just gave what I consider the best all around mold for the 45acp

I went with the 230F.

I wanted a hardball contour for feeding in 1911's of numerous pedigrees, but I wanted a big, flat nose for crush cavity effects. This mold manages to give both quite nicely.

WWJMBD?

I like my science WEIRD.

H&G 68 clone, whatever he calls it.

Bill

What he said.
I listened.
You should too.Agreed..Bill just gave what I consider the best all around mold for the 45acpMiHec has some of these in stock, I think. I just bought one recently.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?184164-Mp-Molds-Mihec-molds-on-hands-Februar-2013

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here