i am fairly new using this Lyman 45, and i had some problems lubing some 0.223 boolits...had a heck of a time getting the groove to lube up, lube would come out of the bottom of the 45, come underneath the bullet when i pushed it out, and all sorts of problems... seemed real finicky about getting the exact boolit depth...
here are the particulars: RCBS sizing die 0.225 with one row of holes, using Carnuba Red, and this particular boolit is a NOE 55gr 0.225 that has one lube groove
seemed like to get the lube groove lined up with the row of holes in the sizer the nose of the boolit had to be approximately 3/8" below the top of the die!
is this normal, or what am i doing wrong?
once i pushed the nose down inside the die, and got the groove lined up with the holes in the die it would lube up with no problems so long as i didn't over tighten the pressure nut
Monday, July 1, 2013
problems lubing .223-55gr with Lyman 45
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Impatient lubing

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2012Locationsw paPosts9
Anyone know if this is already a known lubing technique? I wantet to lube with alox,but didn't want to wait for the alox + min spirits to air dry.I covered a cheap metal serving plate with alum foil,set ontop of the elec hotplate ,and put about 100 boolits on it.Set the hot plate on med/low,the boolits smoked for about 20 minutes,then the smoking stopped.The alox was dry to the touch,not sticky.Let them cool,loaded them and went shooting.The performance was as good as air drying them overnight.Has this method been done before,or have I invented something?
never heard that one.I just set them out on the back porch under the ceiling fan for about two hours and they are dry.
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First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.Where is John Galt?
(If you don't know, you owe it to yourself to find out. )
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I get them real hot with a hair dryer before lubing them.
then heat them again after lubing.
then dump them on a cookie sheet in front of a fan, by the time they are cool they are good nuff to shoot.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
Heat never seemed to make a lot of difference for drying bullets for me, but air circulating around the bullets does..You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Sunday, June 23, 2013
Carnuba red for pan lubing?

Can this lube be used for pan lubing? I offered a stick of this to a member to try it out but he is only pan lubing at this point. I use a Lyman 4500, so I've never pan lubed.Thanks!!
"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin
if he has any issues have him add a tbs of Vaseline this will soften the carnuba red and make it more malleable.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
I tried it and it flat sucked for pan lubing! But that is what made me buy a 450, so it all worked out
Just got a PM from him and he told me just picked a Lyman 4500. So I guess it's a mood point. He will have some lube to use in his lubrisizer. Wish I had started with good lube like CR, I spent a lot of coin on commercial made lube that wasn't as good.
"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Benjamin Franklin
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Friday, June 14, 2013
lubing cast boolits
I tumble lube my 200 swc for 45 auto, and mine has one deep grease groove. The shallow grooves are probably even betterYou should be good to go
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
What is the best boolit lube for pan lubing 45/70?
Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2008LocationMonticello, KYPosts28
I have had good luck using SPG and pan lubing my 45/70 slugs, then sizing them. What do you guys who pan lube use? Anything better than SPG, cheaper also, more readily avialable. All replies appreciated.
Boolit Man Join DateMar 2012LocationALASKAPosts111I don't have a 45/70, but use speed green to pan lube everything I pan lube. Easy to make and ingredients are easy to get. Three parts beeswax to one part Bullplate sprue lube by weight. I get beeswax from Randyrat and bullplate from the bullshop. Both forum members.
is this for black powder or white powder?
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.
1 pound beeswax (randyrat) 1/2 pound lanolin (randyrat) and 1/2 pound canola oil (grocery store) by weight.You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum RulesPerfect lube for BPCR and the white stuff...
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Jacket lubing & the Pickle Jar
Getting old and standing at the press for countless hours is getting tiring. I've been lubing jackets by hand forever but want to save some time using the pickle jar & my tumbler.For those using the jar, do you put the jar inside the tumbler drum or on top of the wheels like the drum itself? Need to go out and find the right size pickle jar.
Thanks
P.S. Starting up my operation again so I may be posting more questions to see more modern ways of doing things.
Friday, April 12, 2013
Couple of pan lubing questions
Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2010LocationCentral ArkansasPosts65
Pan lubed my first batch yesterday and was doing another today. I'm lubing .45 Colt boolits and using an empty .45-70 case to cut them out of the brick of lube.
My question is, how long should I wait before cutting them out?
I'm doing it while it's still pretty warm but think I may need to wait a little longer.
Also, if I decide to push them with a pencil or dowel, should I wait longer than usual?
I tried pushing a few out, and while they popped right out, the grooves would have voids in them that didn't fill with lube.Thanks
Life is a series of bullseyes and backstraps - Ted Nugent
Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2011Posts24I wait until the lube is completely cool before punching out the bullets. For those that did not fill the grooves all the way, I'd sit those back in the lube (place them in the holes you punched out), reheat the lube, and do it again. Shouldn't lose much time/effort that way. An ounce of prevention prevents a ton of lead.
Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2010LocationCentral ArkansasPosts65OK. I think that's what I was doing, taking them out too soon.
Thanks.
Also, should I lube all the way to the top, or leave the crimp groove free of lube?
Life is a series of bullseyes and backstraps - Ted Nugent
Using a case to cut them from the brick isn't a bad idea at all, but I personally prefer to simply push them out with my thumbs. Saves some time, and if you do it right, very successful. I use a silicon cake pan, pour my lube, let it harden, (after an hour I'll throw it in the fridge to finish it off quicker), and then push them out. I pick up the whole brick and carefully push them out, base first.As far as filling them up, all you technically need to do is get the lube groove full. I find I get a better fill out if I top it off a little bit.
Also, with the crimping stage, there's a real easy way to make sure it stays clean! Just keep a rag handy at the bench and wipe the tips down before shoving it into the crimp. Works every time for me.
With 50/50 I find its best to cut them out when the top of the lube is solid and the inside of it is gooey.
Currently loading: .32 Long/Magnum/Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, .30 WCF, .45-70 Gov't.
Looks like you got a bunch of answers that boil down to whatever works for you, no set rulesI use a couple different lubes for pan lubing and find it a pain to find the right temp of the cake to "punch out" the bullets and one of my lubes is too "sticky-gooey" and the lube won't stick in the grooves well. So, I just cut out all my pan lubed bullets. I made "cake cutters" out of stainless steel tubing and honed the ID to a few thousandths over bullet diameter. At about 7" long they are handy and I cut a dowel about 1" longer than the tube, to push the bullets out. Been doing it this way for a few years and haven't found a real need for a lubersizer 'cause I rarely lube much more than 100 bullets at a time...
Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2010LocationCentral ArkansasPosts65haven't found a real need for a lubersizer I haven't either.
For stuff like 9mm and .40, I just tumble lube and size with the Lee push through die.
I'm loading up some .45 Colts for hunting though and am experimenting with different methods. My mold drops them at 0.4525, so sizing isn't an issue with them.
I'm about to start making my own lube. It seems easy enough.
Life is a series of bullseyes and backstraps - Ted NugentYou may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules
Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"