Why sprue plate down on hot plate?

I have read several times that the way to heat up a mold is by placing it on a hot plate with the sprue down on the burner. Why is that better than just setting the mould down on it's bottom?

Founder of the Single Shot section.

A government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take everything you have.

8 in the 10 ring, then I get a PING. Love my Garand.

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2009Posts880

I put the mold bottom down on the hot plate because it also heats the hp pins that way. (MP molds) NOE hp molds have all that apparatus on the bottom to the don't sit well that way and I can see sprue plate down being a good option.

I set the bottom of the mould on the hotplate and put a 1 pound ingot on top to maintain firm contact. I only have one hollowpoint mould and it is a Lyman single cav., so I just leave the pin out to heat.

I use a propane torch to preheat my mould. Heating all sides with hot flame, but not too hot.

Yap bottom of the mold on the hot plate

Calamity Jake

NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.

The idea of the sprue plate down is to heat the sprue plate. Place the mold bottom down for a while then turn it over & heat the plate. A mold oven helps a bunch.

Rick

"The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

"Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

One side is for Liberty and the Constitution and they are called domestic terrorist, anti-American, nazi's and mobsters. Just what is the side using these terms for?

NRA Benefactor Life Member
CRPA Life Member

Whichever gives it the most surface area contact is the way I go.

[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

The idea of the sprue plate down is to heat the sprue plate. Place the mold bottom down for a while then turn it over & heat the plate. A mold oven helps a bunch.

Rick

Rick, how long you talking on keeping it sprue plate down for?
I use a big old green bean can for a mold oven, but never tried the turning the sprue plate down. Always relied on my sprue puddle to get it up to temp.

Didn't say I do it, only that it is done (by some) to heat the sprue plate. I think Glen suggested it in his book as one method of getting the plate up to temp.

I've had very good luck getting mine up to temp with the hot plate & electric box oven. Miha & NOE plates take a bit longer to get up to temp because they are much thicker.

Rick

"The people never give up their freedom . . . Except under some delusion." Edmund Burke

"Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

One side is for Liberty and the Constitution and they are called domestic terrorist, anti-American, nazi's and mobsters. Just what is the side using these terms for?

NRA Benefactor Life Member
CRPA Life Member

Didn't say I do it, only that it is done (by some) to heat the sprue plate. I think Glen suggested it in his book as one method of getting the plate up to temp.

I've had very good luck getting mine up to temp with the hot plate & electric box oven. Miha & NOE plates take a bit longer to get up to temp because they are much thicker.

Rick

Sorry Rick, I must've misread your post. I was thinking you'd tried it or used that method also.
Same with me though, i use the green bean mold oven, get my molds up to heat while my melt is melting in the furnace. Takes about 3 pours for my sprue to be up to temp.

I might have to try it as an experiment though just to see, next time I do some casting. Be an interesting thread on here perhaps.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Can a sprue plate be sharpened????

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Sprue plate question

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationColoradoPosts15

How tight is too tight for the spruce plate? I was casting today with a NOE mold and had to tighten the spruce plate every few casts. Is this normal or should I crank down on the thing to begin with? I don't want to gal the top of the mold, but it doesn't seem quite right to have to tighten so often.

It does not need to be tight.
It should swing easily with little or no resistance.

Make sure you lube it with bullplate or ATF when it is warm and wipe off excess.

Tom

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationColoradoPosts15

When you lube the plate do you lube just the pivot or the whole surface.

NOE uses a set-screw snugged up against the pivot screw to keep it from backing out.

R.M.

The tree of liberty must be watered periodically with the blood of tyrants and patriots alike..........Thomas Jefferson

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationColoradoPosts15

I missed that. What a great idea. I will tighten that before the next casting session.

When you lube the plate do you lube just the pivot or the whole surface.Lube the whole plate, except the area that rests over the cavity when the sprue plate is closed. Lube the top of the mold blocks, staying 1/8" or so away from the edges of the cavities.

Use very little lube. Then wipe things dry. You just want a microscopic film left behind. If there is enough that is looks "wet", then the lube will migrate to the cavities and make wrinkled boolits.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationColoradoPosts15

Thank you Jeff that makes perfect sense.

I have a lot of trouble with the plate screw unscrewing too. It is funny that it loosens but never turns the other direction.
I use a setscrew with a hunk of copper wire to go against the plate screw but heat loosens it so I need to keep an Allen wrench handy.
I don't like the setscrew to ruin threads and a good way is to file a flat on the sprue screw but it is a pain to get it in the right spot.

The advise I've read around here that the sprue plate should be loose enough to swing open by it's self was right on.

you know you have it too tight or too loose when it affects the bases of the boolits.
too tight will lift the plate away from the ones furthest from screw.
too loose will lift it away from the ones nearest the screw.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I use a soft piece of old shop towel, not to fluffy, it's about 4" square folded in half.
I wet it with just a little bit of bull plate two years ago and it still works fine to lube the sprue plate. A quick wipe and then I wipe it with a dry towel.
The lube bottle never spills and you never use to much.

*Cohesiveness*Leadership*a common cause***

The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

Noob question: Teflon/ Moly coating for sprue plate?

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationSheridan, Wyoming...foot of the BighornsPosts5

Just got a sweet "money" mould for my 45-70 and want that expensive puppy to last. I've been reading some of the threads on mould lubes and wondered if anyone has used Brownell's Teflon/ Moly Oven Cure on the sprue plate and top of the mould blocks.

I've used it to refinish several firearms and have experienced excellent results. On the outside of firearms, it leaves a no-nonsense finish that won't win any beauty contests but sheds water like nothing I've seen before. On internal parts that rub each other, I have put a healthy coating on, baked it to cure it, and then carded it down with four ought steel wool and it leaves a finish that's slicker than snake snot on a glass doorknob. I use it on firearms that will be used in cold weather, so I can forego lubes and greases that could stiffen and hinder the reliability of the gun. It is very reminiscent of the Tennifer finish on the Blocks, errrr...Glocks. Even when the color has been worn away, the firearm still enjoys the protection and lubricity of the coating since it is actually in the "pores" of the metal.

It seems like it would be a natural for boolit moulds, but I'd sure like to get some feedback from anyone who has actual experience with it in this application.

Thanks!

Who knows, might work but Bull Plate lube already has that problem
entirely solved. Light, light coating every so often and you are good
to go.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

If God didn't want man to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of MEAT!

The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it's still on my list.

Bullplate all the way. It is proven to work, why mess with beta testing if something is around that is known to work?

I'll be the devils advocate a little here and say go ahead and give it a try. (Note that I am a satisfied user of Bullplate lube and recommend it highly.)

I do know that the temperatures a mold and sprue plate reach during pouring is at the upper safe use temperature for Teflon as a solid, so it might break down pretty quickly. But it might be worth a try, who knows? I'd be interested in the results. But for it to be adopted by satisfied BP users will require it to be better in some way, whether that is in the end results, life expectancy, cost, ease of use, etc. and BP is good in all those areas.

Flat nose ($8) and conformal ($8.50) nose punches for SAECO- or Lyman/RCBS-style luber/sizers.

Saeco-to-Lyman/RCBS style nose punch adapters ($12)

Free S&H in USA on above items

Die retention nut drivers for Lyman and RCBS lubers. Start the nut straight every time! ($22+$5 S&H, shipping free w/purchase of two nose punches)

Email keiththeperfessor@gmail.com for more info.

A better product at a lower price, its the American way.

Personal checks, MOs, and PayPal accepted.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013LocationSheridan, Wyoming...foot of the BighornsPosts5

I appreciate the replies, fellas! I've read the excellent reviews on here regarding BullPlate, and certainly wasn't trying to avoid it. I just wanted to use something I already had on hand rather than wait for another mail order item to arrive (Quigley match is coming up quick, donchaknow ). Even though I've been casting for years, this will be my first experience with ladle casting and using virgin metal and I was keenly anticipating turning out some nice long-range plumbium and stannum projectiles. It's my own fault I didn't research it enough beforehand and get some coming already. Guess I'll just bite the...well, you know...and order some BullPlate.

In the future I'll try the Teflon/ Moly on a couple of older moulds and write up a review.

Thanks again!

May well work. At this point, I don't see an advantage to me, since I have Bull Plate lube, and none
of the other. Certainly, having one or the other in stock is a solid reason to use what you have
as long as it works. Experiments are always interesting if one has the time to do it.

I will be looking for your review.

Bill

Last edited by MtGun44; Yesterday at 06:08 PM.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

How to keep Lyman sprue plate pivot screw set?

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2008Posts700

I was lucky enough to get a recent four cavity 452374 mold that drops excellent boolits of proper size. Life is good. But, that sprue plate pivot screw keeps moving with the plate as I close the plate, thus getting too tight and binding. What is the best method of keeping this screw set to proper tension?

prs

There is a socket-head setbolt in the side of the left block that intersects the sprue plate pivot bolt at 90 degrees. Remove the setbolt, install a piece of lead shot, reinstall the setbolt, adjust the pivot bolt for desired sprue plate tension, and lock it down with the setbolt.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

There should be a set screw on the side of the block. The screw might be missing.

Also, make sure that there is a spring washer under the pivot screw, to hold the correct tension.
Jeff

Another fix I've used is to mark the sprue pivot screw after you have it set where you want, then remove that screw and grind a flat so the lock screw contacts the flat.

You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore

On his four-cavity mould, the set screw is located in the right mould block.

Two-cavity moulds have the set screw located in the left block, as pictured

+1 on a better washer under the pivot screw head. Lyman used to use a spring that was more like a lockwasher than a spring. The sharp ends would dig into the block and scar it and into the screw head, which loosens the screw when you move the sprue plate. I use a plain washer, others use a wave washer, anything beats Lyman's "spring".

Flat nose ($8) and conformal ($8.50) nose punches for SAECO- or Lyman/RCBS-style luber/sizers.

Saeco-to-Lyman/RCBS style nose punch adapters ($12)

Free S&H in USA on above items

Die retention nut drivers for Lyman and RCBS lubers. Start the nut straight every time! ($22+$5 S&H, shipping free w/purchase of two nose punches)

Email keiththeperfessor@gmail.com for more info.

A better product at a lower price, its the American way.

Personal checks, MOs, and PayPal accepted.

On his four-cavity mould, the set screw is located in the right mould block.

Two-cavity moulds have the set screw located in the left block, as pictured

You're right if you use Lyman handles. I'm cheap and modded scissor-type handles to work with the 4-banger blocks and mount them with the sprue plate pivot end toward me, on the left. I've been doing that so long I forgot how they're supposed to be oriented with the intended handles, good catch.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2008Posts700

I had forgotten all about that set screw. Yes, it is right there where it was the first time I tightened it. If it had shot under it, it has melted while on hot plate.

prs

Cut a tiny bit off of a piece of solid copper wire such as the ground wire used in Romex that's used for wiring houses. Put that in the hole. It will give the setbolt something to tighten against without crushing the threads of the pivot bolt and making the pivot bolt difficult or impossible to remove for sprue plate maintenance. The copper won't melt on your hotplate.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here

sprue plate lube

Does anyone know how to contact the makers of bullshop sprue plate lube.

The address I have is bullshop@wildak.net. Unfortunately, my messages are bouncing back.

Appreciate the help

Jim

View the original article here

lee spruce plate bolt coming loose

I got a lee 2 bullet 358-125-rf. the spruce place bolt keeps coming loose. there is no set screw to tighten up.
is there a way to fix this?
Thanks

When your bolt loosens, it is time to lubricate your mold.

Not quite sure what lubricating a mold would do to prevent the sprue screw from coming loose.
The only solution I know of is a set screw. Here's a Lee 6 cavity that had a sprue plate screw that came loose frequently. Drill and tap for a set screw and problem solved.

Give us this day our daily lead.

Sic Semper Tyrannis.

WWGWD

Trey45

I didn't fully understand the " lubricate the mold " suggestion either.

If his threads are stripped and / or loose, lubricating the mold won't help a thing.

its a new mold, threads ok. Has anyone tried lock tight on the bolt yet? I know they make a high heat lock tight.

The downside to using high heat Loc-Tite is the eventuality that maybe someday the screw may need to be adjusted (too loose or too tight, it happens!) so you break the loc tite bond and you're right back where you were before you started. The only real solution is to drill and tap for a set screw. 30 minutes of work for a lifetime of service. It's worth it.

Give us this day our daily lead.

Sic Semper Tyrannis.

WWGWD

ok thanks looks like i will be drilling and taping it.

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2006Posts906

Those bolts are designed to loosen, before the sprue cutter breaks.

Care to explain how that works?

Give us this day our daily lead.

Sic Semper Tyrannis.

WWGWD

Let's see if I've got this right ?

On a Lee 2 cav. mold the sprue hold down bolt is designed to loosen to keep the sprue plate from breaking.

? ? ? ? ? ?

I've never heard of a sprue plate breaking on a Lee 2 cavity mold. How is this possible ?

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

The problem is the spruce wood plate!

You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

View the original article here