Noe Molds for 223 Remington help picking one

I have decided to cast for my AR and wanted to know which mold would you

gentlemen suggest I pick up for a stag arms 1:10 twist 18" barrel. I was looking at the

noe 70gr rn and 62gr fn both GC. I have read great things about the rcbs mold but

none are available and the noe version is also sold out. Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

Planing on sizing to .224 with lee die or should I size to .225?

Thanks Mike

?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY )

I have NOE's RCBS 22-055 FN. I'm still learning about it but it plays nice enough in the rifles I have used it in. If you have to have it to play with this weekend (yes, they ship that quickly) and don't want to wait for the RCBS to come back in stock, I would bet the other molds will work as well.

I would suggest sizing to .225. I would also strongly suggest you polish out the Lee die with some 400 sand paper wrapped on a dowel or rod. If you start with a more coarse grit, you can open the Lee die to .225 and then make it nice and smooth inside with the finer grit.

A gun is a tool, Marian; no better or no worse than any other tool: an axe, a shovel or anything. A gun is as good or as bad as the man using it. Remember that. - Shane

Men occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing ever happened.
Sir Winston Churchill

The truth that makes men free is for the most part the truth which men prefer not to hear.
Herbert Agar

434-1

I wish I could say I've fired some of my NOE boolits. After a gas check and lube, I'm weighing my 55gr FN's right around 62gr. They look nice, I can't wait to see how they shoot.

there's some info in this thread
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?192646-Best-for-the-Ar-15

let us know what barrel you currently have, we'd be able to be more help.

Sizing to .225 is what I've done, but recently ordered a couple dies, .226 and a .227 to experiment with.
Jon

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

Thanks for the replies , it is a 18" hammer forged barrel by stag arms with m4 feed ramps 1:10 twist

?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY )

Boolit Buddy Join DateJan 2012LocationNorth Coast - OregonPosts66

My Stag upper feed the NOE 55 just fine w/22 grains of 748. I just started loading that bullet, and I only loaded to see function. I think i can maybe lower the charge a little to function.

Accuracy - minute of paper plate @100 yards - off hand and a Eotech sight.....

Geoff in Oregon

Ramery, opps, I mis-read your OP, I thought someone suggested to you to get a stag arms bbl.

ANYWAY, the NOE 22-055 clone of the RCBS should work good, as well as the actual RCBS. ALSO, besure to check out this thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?178680-Would-you-buy-this-Mold-223-5-56gr-GC

Good Luck,
Jon

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

It's relatively easy to slug or get a cast of your AR chamber, ask someone to send you a few "as cast" 22 Cal. bullets, be sure to show some good manners and insist in re-paying them for postage. I'm going to guess it will be .226 to .2265. Knowing the throats Dia. will be a better starting point that just starting at .224 or .225.
Since you have a 1-10 twist and IF you are interested in shooting past 50 yds. consider the NOE MX-3-62 gn., Mine weights 63.3 lubed w/ GC
A member here "BUCK SHOT" makes EXCELLENT custom size sizing dies, both styles.

IHMSA # 566 "time sure flies when you're having FUN"

It's relatively easy to slug or get a cast of your AR chamber, ask someone to send you a few "as cast" 22 Cal. bullets, be sure to show some good manners and insist in re-paying them for postage. I'm going to guess it will be .226 to .2265. Knowing the throats Dia. will be a better starting point that just starting at .224 or .225.
Since you have a 1-10 twist and IF you are interested in shooting past 50 yds. consider the NOE MX-3-62 gn., Mine weights 63.3 lubed w/ GC
A member here "BUCK SHOT" makes EXCELLENT custom size sizing dies, both styles.Thank you so the 62gr mold it is.

?Don?t carry a gun. It?s nice to have them close by, but don?t carry them. You might get arrested.? (NY )

Boolit Buddy Join DateDec 2011Posts63

I also have NOE's RCBS 22-055 FN. Ive got a barrel with a 1 in 9 twist. I think the 62 gr. would be a better choice than the 70gr bullet for a 1 in 10 twist barrel. Rick!

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Tumble Lube @ 1300fps?

I loaded some .357mag with Blue Dot using 148gn WC cast from WW with tumble lube grooves, unsized. Out of my 6.5" BH they clocked just over 1300fps. The 2nd half of the barrel leaded horribly after just a few cylinders. I guess this means they ran out of lube. The forcing cone and 1st half of the barrel were pretty clean. I also shot some 105gn SWC with grease grooves and the leading was very light.

I lubed them with Lee's Alox and they looked nicely coated. I didn't size them so there was no 2nd lube.

I've heard that TL won't work well for 1200fps+. Is this true? One hears a lot of stuff on the net. Is there a way to make it work or should I just switch to a grease groove mold.

Thanks

..still remember that no man loses any other life than this which he now lives, nor lives any other than this which he now loses. / Marcus Aurelius.

I've shot tumble lubed bullets at around 1600fps in a 30-30. I'm not sure what the lube was as I bought the bullets, but I think it was alox. I've read of other people taking them to 2,000fps or so, but I haven't done that personally.

NRA Endowment Member
Vet . 2nd of the 47th 9th.Inf. Viet Nam Mar. 67-68

I've taken them to 1400. Fit is king. I've also had slight leading at that velocity. Harder alloy solved it. Velocities have since been brought down.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

Ruger thread choke bites another one!

Check for restriction in the bore where the barrel screws into the frame. A tight spot here will cause gas leaks once the boolit is past that spot and the gas leaks abrade the sides of the boolit and iron the dust onto the bore. Most leading in most guns is caused by gas leaks for one reason or another. Must seal the bore at all times, as Shiloh said "Fit is King", that means DYNAMIC fit, too, which is at any point in the firing cycle that the boolit is still in the gun.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

I am with Gear on this one.
Leading in a revolver after the first inch or so of the barrel is a good sign of thread choke.

I suppose I should slug the barrel. What confuses me about the constriction theory is that the 105's were sized down to .357 while the 148s were loaded straight from the mold. I guess once they clear the narrow part of the barrel, they are all the same size and then it's a question of pressure where the heavier bullet is backed by higher pressure since they clocked almost the same velocity as the 105s.

If I do have a constriction problem, how do I go about remedying that?

..still remember that no man loses any other life than this which he now lives, nor lives any other than this which he now loses. / Marcus Aurelius.

Firelping will eliminate it.

The bullet is sized by the constriction. That's when blow by begins to occur and you get leading. It can be mitigated by balancing pressure and alloy. If pressure is enough To keep the bullet obturation up then no leading will occur.

Hard bullets and low pressure are often going to be the worst combination for thread choked barrels.

Either fire lap with grit-embedded boolits or cast laps in your barrel, coat them with grit, and do it by hand. Lots of information will turn up with a Google search, and we can help with any further questions you might have when you get down to doing it, IF thread choke is indeed your problem.

If it's a new gun, or hasn't seen much jacketed, shoot four or five boxes of full-house copper bullet loads through it, cleaning the copper out every box. It mostly does the same thing, just not as fast. If it's a stainless steel Ruger barrel, you're better off sticking with lead alloy and Clover Compound.

I fixed one revolver with mild loads using air-cooled wheel weight boolits lubed with conventional lube, and treated the forcing cone area with Clover Compound applied with a Q-tip before each shot. That cured the issue in about 25 rounds without doing anything to the cylinder.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

That Q-tip trick would make it much cleaner.
The stainless Ruger uses is some tough stuff. My SRH took a fair number of 240 grit followed by 320 grit to remove most of the thread choke. It sure doesn't lead like it used to.

If you do lap by shooting be sure to shoot low end loads and clean often. Be sure you are lapping the barrel and not leading.

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+1 for Sharp Shooter USA molds

Hello everyone as you can see I'm a newbie to this site but, I have been lurking quite a bit and reading everything I can.

A few weeks ago a buddy and I rounded up every wheel weight local shops would sell us and decided to start casting. Now I've never cast so this was truly a new adventure.

I was pleasantly surprised that Sharp Shooters USA was quick and easy to deal with. They told me it would be 2 weeks and on the money it was 2 weeks.

Today I cast for the first time. Not near as hard as I thought and I turned out 11.5 pounds of .31 cal buckshot.

Thanks to everyone and I promise I'm sticking around, this is kinda addicting.

Oh those frickin molds have to be blazing hot to produce good shot. I mean WOW hot.

Thanks, Jason

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311291 ? ...

Need a bit of help identifying the boolit shown in the pic?

It weighs in at around 170 and with the check in place, around 174?

I am thinking it is a 311291 and that is the data I used figuring the weight of the boolit?

I got about 50 of them in a box labeled. ?30 caliber cast? from a bunch of reloading stuff I purchased some time ago?

Thought I would just give them a try in the T/C 14? thirty-thirty cartridge?

Just with this limited testing, it is outshooting the 311041, at least, at the 50 yard range?

I like the results. Those groups are at 50 yards?

The one on the left is with 30.0 grains of IMR-7383 and it is right at 0.4? center to center?

The one on the right is with 35 grains of IMR-4831 and it is right at 0.5? center to center?

I?m sure glad I took that 223 Remington barrel off of this Contender frame. Nothing but lousy with the .224 boolits?
(But, it is a real shooter with 50 V-Max)

Thanks?BCB

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Any Swagers in the Terre Haute, Indiana area?

OK, I have read and read, I am still reading too. I find the subject amazing and without an actual hands-on or at least in person chance to get into this deeper, a little intimidating as well. So I thought maybe I might be able to find someone nearby or within driving distance at least that would be willing to give me this chance. So here is where I am in relation to you.

I live right about where I-70 crosses US150/41 in unincorporated Terre Haute, Indiana.

So, now with this information is there anyone who is willing to help me out?
I am willing to make it an overnight stay in a hotel if it comes to it too.

Thanks folks.

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Need help with my AR15 & Mihec Cast bullet

Boolit Buddy Join DateJun 2010Posts53

Looking for some help in shooting cast bullets out of an AR-15. I have spent considerable time on CB looking at previous threads to gain info on the subject, and it seems like shooting cast bullets out of an AR15 can be troublesome.

I spent the last 5 months (and 10 visits to the range) doing load development and still can’t get the accuracy I am looking for. My requirements are pretty reasonable: for my needs I need to be able to shoot and get all cast rounds into a 4” paper circle (see picture) from a bench rest at 50 yes.

I shoot a lot of steel standing, sitting, and kneeling from 50 yds, and the above criteria would work well for me.

What I am shooting: Noveske 11.5” barrel with 1/7” twist (I know not a good twist rate, but that is what I have to work with); flattop receiver with a Super Sniper magnified scope on a LaRue Mount. I zeroed the gun at 50 yds with some good quality Hornady FMJ reloads and got a 1.5” 5 shot group.

The bullet is from the Mihec mold (62gr) with a Freechex III GC (.008” lith plate). Lube is BAC. Sized .225 on a Star Sizer (Lathesmith sizing die). Alloy is 60/40 Lino/Pure lead. Bullets look clear of defects, etc.

The case is 1X fired IMI 5.56mm case with proper sizing for the barrel. COAL is 2.182”. I initially set them to mag length and ended up with the bullets jamming into the lands…a no go.

I did OCW load development and settled on 20grains of Tac powder.

What is driving me crazy are the flyers that I can’t account for. One of the flyers I called due to jerking the trigger, the other two I have no idea. These flyers seem consistent in the other powder charges/test loads as well. I know my GC’s are seated well and square. Does anyone have any ideas on what I might have missed at this point? I hate to waste 5 months of testing….

Thanks-

Are you weight sorting the bullets?

The first thing I'd try would be to swap out the pure in that alloy for WW's and water drop them. I'd want some really hard bullets in a 1:7".

Is the bullet being deformed as it's chambered? If you make up a couple dummy's and feed them from the mag a few times are they bumped and scratched?

It is hard to fail, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.

Theodore Roosevelt

Boolit Buddy Join DateJun 2010Posts53

Are you weight sorting the bullets?

The first thing I'd try would be to swap out the pure in that alloy for WW's and water drop them. I'd want some really hard bullets in a 1:7".

Is the bullet being deformed as it's chambered? If you make up a couple dummy's and feed them from the mag a few times are they bumped and scratched?

I have not sorted them. I am currently out of bullets, but am going to cast some more tomorrow, and will weigh them into groups.
So I took your advice and chambered a dummy....picture attached. That scratch wasn't there when prior to me putting it in the magazine.

I'm going to pull the barrel and polish the feed ramps, and try a harder alloy like you mentioned. Hopefully this is solve the problem. Thanks for the help, much appreciated!

I'd change the alloy to 80/20 lino/lead and AC them for 7-10 days before doing anything with them. Then I would get a few Hornady GCs (some one might spare you some, if not PM me). Try them on the new alloyed bullets with the same load. If that solves the flyer problem then you're good to go with probably thicker GC material. If not then the flyer problem is from pushing the bullets too fast for the very short 7" twist barrel. A slower powder may be needed. However, are you using a dacron filler? If not drop back to 14 gr TAC and use a 1/2 gr dacron filler. You'll want to work up to just have reliable functioning and no more. The best accuracy will more than likely be at that point.

Larry Gibson

Are you trimming your brass?
How are you crimping?

It is hard to fail, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.

Theodore Roosevelt

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2010LocationFinland, west coastPosts549

Yeah get one of those plastic sorting boxes to keep them separate, my mold dropped in the 62gr range and I found it varied from 61.9 to 63 grains. I sort the bullet to .1 grains difference.

Boolit Buddy Join DateJun 2010Posts53

LG: I used .010" AL GC before with the same results. Any suggestions on GC thickness? I will check (get it check) into the Hornaday's and see about getting some. I liberated a stuff dog toy from my killer mutt and will give the dacron "stuffing" a try. I'm sure in the end, a slower powder may be the answer to my problem.
Doc: I am trimming my brass (1.752") with my Dillon 1200RT trimmer on my 550. Brass is consistent in length. No crimping of the bullet. At one time I measured the bullet tension, and found it adequate. I use a .223 case expander from 21st Century shooting after trimming (4th station).

Don't worry about the scratch. My 308 carbine (1:10) does the same thing and does 1.5" @ 50 with 4895, close to TAC. You are running ~ 2400 fps in a 1:7, so I agree with Larry, alloy problem. Add some shot and HT or add Cu and reduce the Sb. Or slow down and use doggy stuffing if it will cycle properly.

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RCBS 22-055 FN In AR Help

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts1

I got a new(to me) mold yesterday and cast, sized and loaded some up today and shot them. I tried 8gr of Unique and they shot well but didn't cycle the bolt. Chronoed them at 1920ish FPS. Lyman manual shows a max charge of 9.0 grs. Should I try higher than that or should I try a different powder?
Thanks,
RNHathaway

I've had better results using 4895. Either IMR or H. Start around 18.5 and work up. I have gone considerably higher with accuracy and no leading.

Nighthunter

IN GOD WE TRUST ...... ALL OTHERS PAY CASH.

Unique is too fast burning to cycle the action. It attains pressure quickly and drops off before the expanding gas can cycle the bolt. Although I don't shoot the RCBS boolit, I do shoot the Lyman 225-415 55 grain boolit. 14 grains of 4227 provides 2250 fps and cycles the action of my Mini 14 and my brothers AR platform rifle with approximately 25,000 CUP. The round is quiet compared to factory loads but a ton of fun to shoot. Factory FMJ loads pierce neat holes into tin cans. The cast boolit shreds tin cans. We are still tweaking with the load depth to maximize accuracy but obtained decent groups at 100 yards and were able to ring a 12" gong at 200 yards while shooting off hand. Good enough for us!

Last edited by fcvan; Today at 07:15 PM.

"A person cannot exercise their right to speak freely if they have been stripped of their ability to defend themselves and repel those forces who would seek to quell their speech." Me

you need enough gas volume to make the bolt go backwards.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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