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Boolit Mold Join DateOct 2012Posts2

Hello everybody I am just beginning to get into casting I have gathered the following materials 15 lbs of lead the Lyman big dipper kit their Cast bullet Handbook now I am looking to start out with either 9 mm or 38 specials. Question what do yall suggest I start out with and what mold would you recommend I am partial to lee that is what I load with anyways thanks yall

Horsemen61

Welcome to the best site of its kind, a wealth of information to be gained here. From what I have read 9mm is a little hard to cast for, though I have only read that as I don't shoot that size.

Be sure to slug your barrels in order to get the correct mold size. Lube of your choice although I'm partial to 45/45/10 which can be found on this site through a search.

Read all you can and make your own decisions, but don't hesitate to ask, you will get responses. There are no dumb questions here, everyone is happy to help.

You may also need to get a flaring tool to bevel the mouth of the cases in order to seat cast boolits.

Hope this helps,

Slim

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I suggest you start with the .38 special. I think it is one of the easiest rounds to get satisfactory results with. It is a lower pressure round and I think it is more cast boolit friendly. Plus you don't have to pick up the brass.... If you like Lee, I suggest their 158 RF boolit which has worked well for me. If your .38 doesn't have adjustable sights, most are regulated to the 158 grains. For powder, either Unique or Universal Clays. Standard primers.

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Download the book “From Ingot to Target” by Glen Fryxell it is free and found in the stickies.

I have no hands on experience with 9mm so I would let other comment.

The 38 spl should be an easy one. I would recommend the Lee 358-158- RF. Slug your revolvers throats and size to that.

If you are going to use that same mold for both 9mm and 38 spl, get the 358 mold 120 grain and a round nose design.

I am also going to recommend the Lyman 4500 lubricator/sizer. Get both 358 and 356 sizing dies for it.

Boolit Mold Join DateOct 2012Posts2

Thank you all for the advice I think I am going to start with 148 grain wadcutters in my 38 special.

i'd look at more like the LEE 125 rnfp or the 120. [not the tumble lubed version either]
why? you ask.
because you can size it to 358 and use it in both the 38 and the 9m satisfactorily.
you can also use some of the 38's dies to help your 9m loads be better.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

i'd look at more like the LEE 125 rnfp or the 120. [not the tumble lubed version either]
why? you ask.
because you can size it to 358 and use it in both the 38 and the 9m satisfactorily.
you can also use some of the 38's dies to help your 9m loads be better.Well said run...there got my .02 worth in!

You could get a mold for both calibers, but if you want to use the same mold for both, go with the 358.
The 9mm should use a lead bullet of .356 and the 38 spl .358. You can size them
to what you need.
On average the 38 spl is set up for a little heavier boolits. The 158 gr is great for it, however that is too heavy for the 9mm. That is why I suggested the 120 grain mold. It kinda fits in the middle.

I don't load 9mm so haven't tried 358 boolits in a 9mm. Sounds like others have.

I like the 358-158 Lee but the 120 gr bullet also shoot fine in 38 Special. I load for both cartridges and the 38 Special is the one to start with. Leave the 9mm for later with more experience.

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You could get a mold for both calibers, but if you want to use the same mold for both, go with the 358.
The 9mm should use a lead bullet of .356 and the 38 spl .358. You can size them
to what you need.
On average the 38 spl is set up for a little heavier boolits. The 158 gr is great for it, however that is too heavy for the 9mm. That is why I suggested the 120 grain mold. It kinda fits in the middle.

I don't load 9mm so haven't tried 358 boolits in a 9mm. Sounds like others have.

someone forgot to tell the 9mm makers that thier barells need to be 355.
i know of more 38 target guns that have 355 barells than 9m's that are even close.
that's why we measure.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2009LocationArizonaPosts689

Thank you all for the advice I think I am going to start with 148 grain wadcutters in my 38 special.Very good choice. Try 3.2grs. of Bullseye, you will never be unhappy with it. I can hit pop cans and smaller items like empty shotgun shells with great regularity out to about 25 yards. I have the Lee six cavity 148gr wadcutter mold. I traded for it here, on this web site. It was used but works great. Off the bench that load and that boolit will shoot clover leafs at 25 yards.

Thank you all for the advice I think I am going to start with 148 grain wadcutters in my 38 special.Exactly what I started with 40*cough* plus years ago. For cast, I think you will find that the .38 is one of (if not THE) most versatile and easiest rounds to start out with. After all these years, it is still the cartridge that I have the most fun playing with -- and I load for many of the common handgun calibers.

Just one thing that's already been said - it bears repeating. Don't get the tumble lube version mold unless you intend to tumble lube. Do start with the 38. My opinion. MIke

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Well, I just happen to reload for 9mm and don't even own a .38 special. I use the Lee 9mm 124 grain tumble lube design and I've never sized one round. They go straight from the mould to the tumble lube bucket and then get reloaded. I've even pushed a slug through the bore of my pistol and it went down the tube with a little force and left some nice groove marks on the slug. I leave the front driving band exposed when seating and have NEVER had any leading problems. I don't care about OAL as I just seat them just behind the front driving band and they are the same length as a factory loaded round nose bullet.

It seems to me that those who seat the boolit deeper run into problelms because the front driving band is seated into the cartridge and is squashed in the seating/crimping process. I generally use enough bell from the powder through expander die to get the boolits started with just my fingers then let the press do the rest. I do use a nice firm crimp to take out the bell. Since I've used magnum primers (on suggestion of Bass Pro personnel) I do use a good crimp to keep the boolit secure until the powder ignites (the problem I've run in to using magnum primers).

Since switching to regular primers I do not use a hard crimp, just enough to remove the bell from the cartridge and everything is kosher. Just my 2 cents worth. BC

Jesus said, "I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father but by me."

Glad you came over to cast bullets. I think you should have a little knowledge about slugging your barrel and what that tells you. Also for the wheel gun how that relates to your cylinder throats.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I think you had some questions on lead, the hardness needed, and what to do with some pure to make it shoot-able.
You can shoot it if you size your bullets correctly and keep the speed down to a fast walk.

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The effective range of an excuse is ZERO Meters

The 38 spl w/ wadcutters will be a great introduction into reloading boolits. Its what I cut my teeth on as a pup. Even better just about everyone else has loaded it before too. There is plenty of info on it in all the books not to mention your fellow lead heads in the forum.

Enjoy it!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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