Varget dispensing

I have a RCBS uniflow dispenser and I'm loading 223 with varget. It's metering all over the scale. Is there a easier way to drop consistent loads off powder without trickling each load? I will be loading a couple thousand rounds. Hehe

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

I'm using an RCBS Chargemaster and about every third or fourth charge it'll throw heavy, just have to pour it back into the hopper and try again. The long grain Varget just doesn't trickle well. 25.4gr of Varget and a 50gr VMax are potent medicine so it's worth the trouble to me!!!!

I use the powder baffle in my uniflow and it is always with in a tenth a grain at its worst mine is case activated. Explain how you go about using yours for reloading some one here will put you on the wright path I am new on the RCBS pro 2000 and it works like a dream so I am not going to jinx it. IMR 40 64 is the powder I use the most.

Suggest you invest in a Quick-Measure. It will accurately dispense any powder, by itself or in conjunction with a progressive loader.

By itself:

On a Dillon 550B

http://www.quick-measure.com/qm.htm

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It's the stick powder I have trouble with. Everything else is pretty dead on. I'll stick with trickling each load till something better comes along. Varget is the only powder I can get readily right now.

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

Kevin, that quick charge sure looks nice. I might just pick one up soon. I saved the link, Thanx.

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

When loading "stick powders I use my harrels now, dang are they accurate with any powder. My rcbs uniflow worked much better with the micrometer conversion and a powder baffle. I made my powder baffle from an old plastic pop bottle, It can be cut out oval so it can be folded to fit then a couple notches cut in the lower edges ( each side) to allow powder to flow consistently with out allowing wieght to affect compression. Then you need to play with baffle hieght to find the sweet spot for the powder you are using. Also try the passage notches front and back and also side to side, it sometimes makes a diffrence. I have a redding benchrest also that works fairly well but have yet to find one that equals may Harrels. Consistency is the key to accuratly dropping charges ( why measures on progeressives work so well). Handles need to be operated at the same speed force every time, same "bump" top and bottom of stroke, a consistent level of powder maintained in the hopper. Onmy RCBS uniflow I had 2 piece of tape on the hopper full and lower level. Above that point and wieght ? compression into chamber wasnt consistent. Below lower level and again compression into the chamber wasnt consistent. Set down a couple evenings and drop and record charges with varget. The written wieghts will tell the tale. You will see where the sweet spots are with varget. May take a couple hoppers full of powder to really prove the findings.

Thank CG for all that info. I'm still learning, pretty new still. I'll play with it and make a baffle. I need to make a new sturdier stand for it also, it vibrates a little more than I wanted. My strikes & taps are consistent. Just need to tune it a little. Or just buy the quick measure. Hehe

Thanx again

2 357Maxi's
45-70
7X57 mauser
30-30
AR-15
Too many shotguns

I just punch in the charge I want and hit enter.
then enter, then enter, then enter.
it goes as fast as I can seat the bullet and put it in the box.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I have both a Uniflow and a Lee powder measure. I use the Uniflow for ball and flake powders and the Lee for extruded.

The biggest thing Ive seen with the rcbs uniflow and lyman 55 also the reddings to an extent is "managing" the powder in the hopper correctly. Learning to keep it in that sweet spot really helps. The rcbs micrometer conversion's plug is concave which leaves no sharp corners to fill on not fill, but with that some smaller charges may be unobtainable. I have an rcbs uniflow that spent 3 months with me at work. When I got a spare moment I would work on it. Main rotor hole was Jig ground round true and square. In flow and out were taper reamed and polihed, A new drum made up with a precission fit, side plates made to limit end play. and the mic conversion reinstalled. Alot of preccison work that didnt gain alot other than a warm fuzzy feeling. LOL. The Baffle will do the most after the Micrometer conversion if they are still available. A straight edge dividers calipers and sharp siccors are all you need to make a baffle. Cut a square from the center of a 20 Oz pop bottle. Cover with masking tape ( 1 layer is fine) with a sharp pencil or sharp scribe make a straight line and a cross 90 degs to it in the middle. another mark 3/4" on each side of the center line. These are your center spacing fo each half circle. Measure the Dia of the inside of the hopper with the calibers. Set the dividers to half this dimension and scribe the radiouses of each 3/4" line. with the straight edge mark the radiouses together. you now have your oval to cut out fold in half dont crease it. Lay out the notch you want I used 1/2" wide at the bottom to 1/4" wide at the top 3/4" long on each side. If you have a 1/4" hole punch that makes a great radious for the top of the notch. Fold the piece in half a couple pieces ot tape will help hold it do not crease. Cut the notch in both pieces with the scissors. Fold it and it should slip in the hopper and then spring tension should hold it in place. Play with the hieght notch width as needed. You can make new up as need and not be out anything. Any thin plastic. Milk carton, liquid soap bottles, ect ect will work well, and are normally thrown out as trash.
Im not sure if the RCBS Micrometer conversion is still available but one could easily be made on a lathe or a drawing made and taken to the local Trade school where one of the students could make it easily from an bolt of the correct thread.It dosnt have to be a deep radious justenough to break the sharp edges with the drum. full diameter and about .060-.090 deep. May even be able to have the machine it into the original if the head is thick enough. Hope this helps

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2012LocationManitoba CanadaPosts22

I'm not the first to suggest it, but my little Lee does really well with extruded powders.
It didn't like fine powders, spit them all over the place, but some little effort with some lapping compound has it sorted.
For less than $30, it's an inexpensive experiment.
One of those Quick Measures does look pretty nice though...

I trickle every load, thats how each one is right on the money.

My Old man used Ball C L2 in all his 22s, did 7-800 yard kills every year.

Ball powder works easier in small cases and powder drops

I have sworn on the altar of GOD eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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