Remington Model 58 barrel question

No it will not. Totally different barrel ring. A barrel can be made from an 870 barrel, all that needs to be done is to drill two gas ports. I would strongly advise getting someone who knows what they are doing to handle it. If you have the tooling and some skills, and an existing barrel to use as a guide for port sizes and angles, it isn't difficult.

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mossberg 800 asm .308. new barrel?

.

I'd give that barrel a deep professional cleaning, with something like Outer's Foul Out III, and a magnified inspection of the crown, before I'd consign it to the scrap pile.

.

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An unexpected way to "de-lead" a barrel?????

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2008Posts779

Now we have all heard of folks following a boolit shooting session with a round or few of copper condom bullets with the intent of forcing the lead out. Sort of like chasing hard cheese with prunes? I never knew if it worked or not since I don't have any copper clads and I never gave it much thought (the bullet thing, not the cheese and prunes).

Well, I got into loading for 45ACP a while back and in my enthusiasm I made way too many rounds of various boolit design loads with both my attempt at Recluse and also straight Lee Liquid Alox. Boolits cast and almost immediately lubed after cooling, then sized, and tumble lubed again before "curing" at least two weeks. I got leading in all attempts, some worse than others, all bad. I got real good at cleaning lead out of my SR1911. I put that overly generous supply of lead slathering ammo in storage and began reading and asking questions on this forum, then applying the information gleaned. Little by little the leading improved, but did not totally resolve until I switched to NRA 50:50 lube. Success is sweet! No more leading A-Tall!

But, I still have all of that initial abundant supply of ammo that super galvanizes my stainless steel barrel. So yesterday I loaded up three magazines of 7 rounds each with that bad ol' lead slather'n fodder and 12 more magazines with the good stuff. I shot the three leading prone magazines first. Like always back when I was shooting this "stuff" it was GREAT at first and then accuracy fell off after 2 magazines, the third was minute of dinner plate at 20 to 25 yards. I removed the barrel and saw the familiar sight, ughhhh. I was gonna clean it, but I decided to shoot a few of the good 'uns first. I did not expect any change, at least not improvement and actually sort of figured it would continue to worsen since the barrel was already gunked-up pretty badly.

After a few shots I was wondering if things were getting better and by the end of those 7 rounds I was pretty darn sure it was. Removed the barrel and there was some grey color to be sure, but nothing like it was after those first three magazines of "lead slatherers". So, I finished my shooting session with the balance of the good stuff. Enjoyed excellent accuracy, in so far as I can tell with my ability on steel plate targets at 20 to 25 yards.

At gun cleaning time, that barrel looked just like it does when I shoot only the "good stuff". A Ballistol patch revealed only one tiny glint of free lead and the barrel was all shiny and smooth with crisp rifling. So now, maybe I can "get rid of" that crumby lead prone ammo by shooting alternate magazines of it along with the "good stuff".

Thing is, I don't recall seeing such a report as this before. Is it typical for good functioning ammo to "clean house" after poorly functioning ammo like I experienced? If this continues or fails to prove-out in the future, I will report back.
I was dreading the chore of impact puling all of those rounds.

prs

yes it is typical of 'good' ammo to clean up 'bad' ammo.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

After each range session I fire 2 gc'd 357's through my wife's and my 686's. Don't even have to run a patch through after that. But they only get a small amount of lead just ahead of the forcing cone.

PRS: For a number of years I cast all my boolits as hard as I could get them, water-dropping them from the mould, revolvers and .45 ACP. After reading a lot of posts here on Cast Boolits, last fall I started to air-cool my boolits and load them as I had before. In the past with the hard boolits, I had lots of leading. Surprise! The softer boolits did not lead the barrel. And that worked with three .45 ACPs (an old Chas Daly, a Ruger P90 and a Dan Wesson Pointeman II). Now I'm a confirmed air-cool caster of softer alloy. Going to try that with a .30-06 and a .243 Winchester. 'Tuck (as in Kentuck)

Great point Tuck. Glad to have a newer member making this important point, too.
Do recongize that with the rifles, you may NEED to add some hardness - but let the
target and barrel tell you if it is neededat your particular velocity/pressure level.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Master Join DateJun 2008Posts779

Good p ost, Tuck. I also use air cooled. I tried water dropping and the hard boolits were no better, if not worse. Boolit fit, adequate lube, cartridge to chamber & barrel fit seem to be key factors for me so far.

prs

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Need bullet mold for 35 Rem w/microgroove barrel

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013LocationMtns of Far Western NCPosts1

Anyone who could give some advice for a good mold for casting 200 +/- grain bullets for a Marlin 35 Rem with microgroove barrel. I know this setup is not well suited for the cast bullet, but know you guys will have some good info. I prefer to use gaschecks and will be both target shooting and maybe whitetail or hogs will be on the menu.

I have shot some 175 gr cast pistol bullets with limited success. Thanks for the help.

Lyman offers this: http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/select-mould-rifle.php?styleRef=cat11#anc

Lyman is the only one I know of specifically, but you can bet if Lyman has one others do too. There's always the custom mold route.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

Have you considered the RCBS 200 gr FN ? Seems to be the go-to mold for .35 rem micro grove. I've cast many and have started shooting them. No complaints so far.

The problem we have in our country today is there are more who vote for a living than work for a living !

A wise man's heart is at his right hand, but a fool's heart at his left. Eccl. 10:2

Boolit Master Join DateSep 2011Locationsouthern tier NYSPosts230

I have been using the Lyman mold 358315, with COWW, to some success. I started with the MBC 358/180, and discovered the Marlin liked that boolit. Target only so far.

I would go with the 190 RD. Super blt!
1Shirt!

"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin

"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying

My 336 is conventional groove rifling, but from reading Glen Fryxells work, he says
that sizing to your barrel is critical and apparently most MG bbls take .002 or more
larger than conventional grooves.

Look up his articles on the LA range site, well worth the time.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

My 336 is conventional groove rifling, but from reading Glen Fryxells work, he says
that sizing to your barrel is critical and apparently most MG bbls take .002 or more
larger than conventional grooves and require GCs, so you will be good for that.
The RCBS mold (200 gr) is highly recommended but am still experimenting with a RD
TL design, of which I am slightly skeptical of, not being a fan of TL, but these are dip
lubed, eliminating one of my big dislikes - lube on the front of the boolit. RD closed
down his shop, but some might be available used. THese are 190s but may not
be large enough for your application.

Look up his articles on the LA range site, well worth the time.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Dont believe that MG are not suited to shootin cast. Some gun writers that evidently did not understand started that **** long ago.
I have a 30-39 and a 35 Rem with MG that shoot cast great. Also a couple .22 with MG and they shoot crazy accurate!
Most will tell you that MG needs HARD boolits. I shoot from pure to heat treated WW with success. I size my 30-30 .310 and 35Rem .360 Both shoot anything I have tried in them. I do admit that they are not as easy to find a great load as a Winchester but I believe it is the funky "throat" and not the MG that is the reason.

I have never had leading in either gun. The only limitation I have found is the SWC designs do not feed as slick as a RN design.

ranch Dog designs his molds for Marlin chambers. I have one mold in .380 that I followed his dip lube method with great results.

So shoot the heck out of that Marlin with cast. Make up your own mind about MG.
Jay

"The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen
"It's what we think we know already that often prevents us from learning."
French physiologist Claude Bernard

I've good luck from my 1978 model 336 in 35 Remmy and its a MG barrel. It likes the RCBS and NOE 35-200-FN and the 35 THOR. Now its a real heavy weight for 35 Remmy but it shot (test boolits) really well in my rifle, 2 MOA at 100yds with iron peep sights.
Check it out.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?198778-B-C-360-230-Thor

mine shoots the 200 rcbs rfgc and the lbt 230 rfgc real well.

Just last weekend I shot an informal range session comparing three boolits for my mid-60's 336. I used the 358315, the RCBS 200, and the RD 190, each with three different powders to approx 1700fps. All were plenty accurate enough for deer/hog but the RD 190 easily beat the other two. It wasn't a problem getting under 1 inch at 50 yards (usually, a raggad hole). The RCBS was second and very consistent with the three powders I used. I got the best results with the Lyman boolit using Win 748 (4 in a raggad hole but one flyer, which was more than likely me, to make a 1.4" group) and since that's the mold I have, I'm going to do some more experimenting.
Also, I concur with other's comments that it's BS that Micro-groove bbls aren't suitable for cast. Mine shoots exceptionally well (I size to .359) and have never experienced any leading.
Semper Fi.

RCBS 200 shoots well, never wandered off to others.

I may not post a lot, with the wealth of knowledge here it's better to appear stupid than to open my mouth and prove it. I'll just keep reading and learning.

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My 10/22 Shoots One Ragged Hole with Factory Barrel

I took my 10/22 to the range today to sight in a scope I just mounted. This is a 2011 vintage Ruger Charger that I assembled into a Carbine. I bought a used barrel from a member at RimfireCentral, and a birch Sporter Deluxe stock off of Ebay. I sent the barrel to Jim Pixley to be threaded, front sight remounted, and muzzle re-crowned. At 25 yards, with just my left forearm rested against the rail at the range, it shoots one ragged hole, with my suppressor attached(SilencerCo SS Sparrow) It does this with all 3 ammo types I took today, Federal bulk, Blazer bulk, and CCI Standard Velocity. I was shocked. The gun is completely stock, with the exception of the barrel re-crown. I didnt shoot the barrel before sending it to the machinist. I dont know how accurate it was in stock form. It is a recent barrel with all the bad lathe rings, and matt finish.

I have had a 10/22 since 1986. I sold that first one and bought a stainless 10/22 when they came out. I still have it. I think that was around 1991. I haven't shot it in years, but don't really remember it being inaccurate. Why do people knock the 10/22 as being inaccurate? The one I shot today sure isn't. Did I just get lucky, or did the re-crown make the difference?

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Ammo plinking test ?/9mm 3" barrel

Dropping my reloads in diamondback 3" barrel (9mm) . Their all down below hood like they should be but some drop a tiny bit lower. My reloaded brass. Could it cause lite strikes on some of them being lil' lower? What is problem?

They all plink down in chamber.

workin @ Ft. bragg

Boolit Master Join DateJan 2010LocationTom, in Gloucester, VAPosts900

Try them and see how they shoot. You'll know if your reloads are okay if you're happy when you go to the range.

workin @ Ft. bragg

seein as how the 9m headspaces on the front of the case i'm gonna go with some of your cases are shorter.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Either seat the boolits a touch longer or use a hair less taper crimp or both.
Go to far and they won't work, but sounds like you have room to adjust a bit.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

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Looking for a heavy barrel .22mag

Look at a Savage. They make a number of different models and all offer excellent accuracy. I own several and have found no fault with any of them. If you're primarily interested in shooting groundhogs/woodchucks, I suggest looking at the same gun in a 17 caliber (still a rimfire and ammo costs the same). I resisted getting this caliber but everyone I know who bought one has a gun that will outshoot mine by a small margin (on average, not every time). It's a flatter shooting caliber and is truly destructive on groundhogs/woodchucks. Go to savagearms.com and check them out. Prices range from very affordable to mid range compared to any custom gun. I'd suggest staying away from semi-automatic magnum rimfire rifles unless you're either a fairly good gunsmith, know a good gunsmith, or don't mind jamming and failure to feed. I've been down that road myself and it's not worth the trouble.

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what wears out a barrel faster?

You don't have to be an authority on guns and related subjects to work the gun counter in many places that sell guns. You just need to be willing to work for low wages.

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2011Posts286

Kent Lomont put over 200,000, yes two hundred thousand, 250 grain Keith level loads down 1 Smith and Wesson Model 29 back in the sixties. Other than forcing cone erosion the barrel was still good. Wish I had a dollar for every time I've heard this **** from some person who has never cast a bullet telling other people to stay away from lead bullets.

Another fact that needs to be taken into accounthere is what constitutes a worn out barrel? The benchresters barrel that is "gone" will still perform good for a High power shooter. A High power shooters barrel will satisfy most Varmint deer hunters. And the beginner plinker may not now a good barrel from a bad one. My 243 barrel will still clean the reduced targets at 200 yds but was costing me Xs at full 600 yds. Alot depends on the shooter and his requirements and skill level. A deer hunter hunting heavy timber where shots at 50 yds are long will never wear out a barrel.

A cleaning rod used improperly wins this contest by a long shot.

[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

Boolit Bub Join DateFeb 2013Posts25

I was listening to the "talking heads" at the local gun shop the other day and their collective opinion is hard cast lead will wear out a barrel faster than copper jacketed lead bullets. What do you folks think?

BB

I went to the gun shop for the free cookies, not the free wisdom.

BB

The GI standard bbl life was set at 30 seconds for the 06' or 10,000 rounds. It actually comes out to .007?? seconds per shot. That w/GI FMJ,AP and tracer full auto bbls dont last as long .

I will sight a brand new rifle I'm working . 23 grains of RL10x behind a 7mm 120gr copper clad SP netted 2230 fps while the PP'd 130gr 27-130 launched w/21gr yielded 2250 fps . My guess is that the pressures were similar as the cast and patched boolit was heavier but clocked faster ,it also did it on 9.5% less powder. Less powder , less heat,lower dwell time less wear....

"Gentlemen we MUST all hang together lest we shall most certainly hang separately" Ben Franklin

In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992

Boolit Man Join DateNov 2012LocationCentral VirginiaPosts76

The last place I would go for any gun related opinions would be a gun shop!Agreed ! They might sell guns at gun stores but they give the misinformation away for free and in large amounts.

Flame eats the throat. More powder and heat, more throat wear. This is what
really kills a barrel, not the bullet or boolit rubbing down the bore. Most boolit
loads have much less heat because they are burning much less powder.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Poor and/or improper cleaning procedures. More barrels are ruined by this than anything else.

Shiloh

"A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
Bertrand de Jouvenel

?Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.? ? Joseph P. Martino

?If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.? ? Milton Friedman

Boolit Buddy Join DateMar 2010Posts61

Post #11 they have'nt been fired enough, you will get a ring and then wear on the rifling, its called the T-22 ring.

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1884 Winchester 32 wcf octagon barrel

Yes, your rifle is a Model 1892. The model marking is on the upper tang, under the tang sight. The caliber is commonly called 32-20 today.

It does have some serious wear, but would still be interesting to many. If its in fairly good mechanical condition, and the action and takedown is reasonably tight, it would be desirable as a shooter, and worth more than a common gun.

__________________
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-

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40S&W out of a 16" barrel? Kel Tec Sub Questions

I have a G27 & G35 and I'm giving thought to adding a .40 rifle, but only if it takes Glock mags and there is a ballistic advantage from the longer barrel.

Does .40 improve through 16 inches or is it actually slowing down again at the muzzle?

Does anyone besides Kel Tec make a short rifle in .40 that uses Glock mags?

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Stupid question on barrel Crown

Ok, the crown is the end of the barrel that is rounded. I've heard people say they have to get their gun recrowned or they shorten the barrel and have to recrown.

Does the crown do anything? All of my rifles have a crown except my Stevens Favorite model 17 .22. The end of the barrel is cut straight. Can a crown be damaged? How and what does it affect?

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Old rem. 700 heavy barrel

.

You most likely have Remington 700 Varmint Specials, made from 1967-94.

There should be 2 Remington Date Code Letters stamped into the LH rear side of their bbls, which will reveal the DOM.

Month Codes: [first letter]
B - L - A - C - K - P - O - W - D - E - R - X
1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12

Year:______Code: [second letter]
1967_______ P
1968_______ R
1969_______ S
1970_______ T
1971_______ U
1972_______ W
1973_______ X
1974_______ Y
1975_______ Z
1976_______ I
1977_______ O
1978_______ Q
1979_______ V
1980_______ A
1981_______ B
1982_______ C
1983_______ D
1984_______ E
1985_______ F
1986_______ G
1987_______ H
1988_______ I
1989_______ J
1990_______ K
1991_______ L
1992_______ M
1993_______ N
1994_______ O

EXAMPLE: Date Code "L Y" = Feb 1974

Of their half-dozen chamberings, the .25-06 was the only one made with the M700 long-action, the rest being made on the M700 short action.

.

Last edited by PetahW; Yesterday at 11:23 PM.

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barrel break in ?

Break-in is not a myth. It's not going to 'ruin' a gun if you don't do it and it's not going to do anything like make a 3MOA gun shoot sub MOA.

Shooting and cleaning properly will gradually polish the bore, removing imperfections. I've seen it myself with my own rifle and the bore now looks like a mirror after a few boxes. A good 'broken in' bore should maintain accuracy for more shots, because fouling will not accumulate as quickly, and cleanings should also be slightly easier.

It's up to the owner whether to do it or not. It's not really going to make or break a rifle, unless you damage the bore while cleaning. I just use a bore snake and hoppe's #9, and run the snake a few times and it takes care of everything.

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walther p99 barrel

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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WTB/WTTF: Mossberg 930 26"-28" AccuChoke Barrel

Mossberg barrel for the 870? unclepaddy Shotguns, Shotgunning, and Shotshell Reloading 2 07-19-2009 10:29 AM

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Any special tricks barrel fitting a Ruger No.1?

With the barrel still chucked in the lathe to chamber & fit, how do you trial fit the action with the hanger in the way? Any special tricks, gotcha's or tools to worry about?

TIA...

...bug

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about a 4 foot flame out the end of my barrel.

Dunno whether to laugh or cry. Welcome to the world of the H335 flamethrower.

Seroiusly, many years back, 1973 to be exact I bought a Remington M660 in .308and the one load manal I had back then (Lyman) showed H335 to give the highest velocity. I guess it was high but no personally owned chronographs back then. (How did we manage?) I got a roughly 4 foot wide fire ball from it's 22" barrel and the muzzle blast felt and sounded like some kind of concussion. I made my longest shot on a deer with that rifle, 427 paces, deer running as fast as it's wounds would allow. My hunting partner hit it and it took off. It was at best a lucky shot.
So, I'm betting you get the ball of fire and I'd also bet the muzzle blast it extremely sharp.
Here's what I think. I won't say I'm right but it's what I think. I think H335 generates a great deal of very hot gas when ignited in a cartridge, especially if it's a very stiff load. (Mine were) This very hot possibly super heated unburned gas ignites with a bright flash and loud report when it hits the oxygen rick outside air.
Funy thing is I used some to work up a hot 250 gr. bullet load in my .35 Whelen, got great velocity and accuracy but no flash or extra loud bang. IIRC, a hot gad will cool if it is allowed to expand so maybe that was why there wasn't the flash and bang from the Whelen. Not saying I'm right but that's my theory FWIW.
Paul B.

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Remington 1100 Barrel?

.

The Hastings bbl was a good buy.

Choke tubes for it are readily available online for about $15 IIRC.

YMMV, regarding the 24" length - as it depends upon what/where you shoot.

It's what I like in a Grouse Gun - in fact what's on my 20ga Franchi AL-48 (24" VR) - where jump shooting in tight cover's the norm.

I like something longer for longer shots - like open field shots @ Pheasant, for example - where the longer length helps me smooth out my swing.

.

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Aftermarket barrel vs. Sight radius

Hello,
Just curious.I'm picking up my G20 tomorrow.I plan to use it with cast 200 gr GC bullets with an aftermarket barrel for backpack hunting.
Question is if I get a 6-6.5 barrel the sight radius is still limited by the length of the slide .what advantage is a 6" barrel besides increase in velocity. or is that the whole point
thank you

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

A bit more muzzle velocity, but at pistol hunting ranges the marginal effect on your game is not likely to be significant.

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.", old Chinese proverb.

So I'm thinking "tactical" length Lone Wolf which would be a compromise between the 6-6.5 and stock length

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Winchester 120 barrel

Remington 1100 fore end won't go on with new barrel MAC702 Shotguns, Shotgunning, and Shotshell Reloading 8 01-08-2011 04:11 AM

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