Showing posts with label 45ACP. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 45ACP. Show all posts

Friday, November 15, 2013

a few questions about the S&W Military and Police .45acp compact....

a few questions about the S&W Military and Police .45acp compact.... I'm going to get a new(new in box) Smith and Wesson M&P .45acp compact soon & had a few gunsmith/after market concerns...
1) can the S&W Performance Center or a S&W trained armorer add a ambi safety to a compact M&P .45acp? This model doesn't have it & I think S&W no longer sells a ambi safety compact in .45acp.
2) do any places like Bar Sto or KKM make match grade stainless barrels for a compact .45acp pistol?
3) do full size M&P .45acp pistol magazines fit the smaller compact .45acp in emergencies?
It could be useful as a BUG or back-up on security details.

PM if you want.

Thanks,
ClydeFrog


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Thursday, October 31, 2013

choosing a full size .45acp semi-automatic

Don't fret over the grip safety, it only has enough tension to hold itself upright. If you don't have enough grip on the pistol to depress it, when you fire it you'll lose it or get a dent in your forehead anyway.

My vote would be an XDM compact, it is large enough for a night stander with the extended mag, and if you ever want to carry you just swap to a 9 rounder and it rides comfortably.

One note.. If you handle a Springfield, try to find one that has had a few hundred rounds through it. All of mine have been stiff for about the first 400 rounds.. They function perfectly, but the slide is harder to rack and the slide and magazine releases are stiff. They start to loosen up after those few hundred rounds and everything is easier to operate.


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Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Which .45acp Xdm or Glock or??????

I'd definitely go with the Glock 30sf, 30s, or 36. In that order.

Parts are always available and with a gun for CCW that you should be training extensively with, you're going to need part eventually. Glock's are the easiest parts to come across. Both factory and aftermarket. (I recommend factory)

1911's have nothing "drop-in" and I think they're amazing range guns in this modern time. Those to carry them, are probably great tinkerers or have no problems with them being high maintenance.

XD's? I do not like for the life of me. PM for more details if you'd like.

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Friday, July 26, 2013

.45ACP leading, can't find the sweet spot...

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!

I'm still trying to get rid of the leading with my .45ACP loads for my 1911. I'm using 200gr Lee SWC (tumble lube style bullet) cast from air cooled clip-on WW. They measure (with a micrometer) to .453" and my bore slugs at .451". I've made double sure that my cases are expanded enough and aren't shaving lead, and that my taper crimp die is only taking the bell off the case and I'm not using any sort of lee crimp dies. I'm loading on a Dillon square deal.

First I was tumble lubing the bullets, and water dropping them, and loading them over 4.2gr Bullseye. That was leading the grooves in the first inch of the barrel after the chamber, pretty heavily, after just 21 rounds fired. I learned that there's no good reason to water drop bullets (to about 18BHN) for .45ACP because bullets around BHN9 are about ideal for 13,000psi chamber pressure.

So I cast some and air cooled them (I figure they should be about 12BHN?) because I don't have any pure lead to alloy down to anything softer.

I loaded up more, but this time with 4.5gr Bullseye, and they leaded a little less but still pretty bad, and right after the chamber again.

So I figured maybe the Lee liquid Alox is just not cutting it, and I pan lubed them with some home made beeswax/vaseline (50/50 mix) lube. With the same 4.5gr Bullseye load they leaded only very slightly less.

So I read that a bunch of people run 5.0gr Bullseye behind a 200gr SWC bullet cast from WW for IPDA, and that it didn't lead (no mention of lube type though). So I loaded up some of these but rather than pan lubing again I just tumble lubed them. After 21 shots the whole bore was leaded worse than I've ever seen, even on the top of the rifling lands. Is this just a flat out lube failure of the liquid alox?

So any ideas on where to go from here? Is the Lee liquid alox insufficient and the beeswax/vaseline lube I mixed also inadequate? Should I try another lube? I have HP-38 powder, would switching to that do any good? Is my alloy still too hard for .45ACP?

I can't imagine it being a bullet size issue, I'm already .002" over groove diameter and I've checked pulled bullets and they are not being sized down during loading and they drop into the chamber easily.

Still haven't figured out the leading problem with my .40S&W either, although I was hoping .45ACP would be easier to solve since it's supposed to be an "easy" cast bullet cartridge to load.

Pitchnit is offline Boolit Man Join DateJan 2012LocationNE OHIOPosts87
I was having the same issues. Went back to .452 per several members suggestions. Try setting you aol to just see the rifling engraving the shoulder of the bullet after chambering a round. Im running 1.255 with my Lee 200 LSWC. I seat so that when I drop a round in the barrel the round is .005-.010 proud of the back of the barrel.
.45ACP is an easy cartridge to cast and load for.

Just exploring ideas.
As a curiosity, how large a boolit can you seat and still drop test it into your chamber. Anything over .452 won't chamber fully on my Kimber, even when pressing with my thumb.
If you have an exceptionally large chamber, perhaps the boolits aren't aligned with the center of the bore and are skidding on firing.

Do your boolits measure .453 in both directions (on the part line and 90 degrees from the part line)? What do you measure, (the base band, the front driving band, the middle tumble lube area)?

Instead of tumble lubing with straight Alox, try the 45-45-10 lube that Recluse came up with. Many have used it with success when they have failed with Alox.

OK, reaching way out to left field. Could there be copper fouling in the beginning of the barrel that is galling the lead to cause the leading? Might point back to an over-sized chamber and my first point.

Add 2 % tin to your WW alloy (3.2 oz to 10 lbs WW alloy) and AC the bullets 7-10 days before use. Get a Lee .451 or .452 sizer. After the bullets age harden the 7 - 10 days as per the Lee directions TL well and let dry over night (24 hours). Size in the Lee ,451 or .452. Then TL again and let dry at least 24 hours. Load over 5 gr Bullseye.

Larry Gibson

Try 5.5-5.6 gr of HP38 (same as W231) under that boolit. .452 diam should be good.

Bill

If it was easy, anybody could do it.
I think I wouldn't go quite that high with the 231.
5.0 is bout where I am usually at when I use it.
you could slow the powder down and see if that helps.
you could also pull a boolit from a loaded round and see what you are really putting in the chamber.
Dillon dies are jaxketed bullet designed.
you might just need to back a few things off.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Some years ago I had the same leading problem in both my 1911's. My boolit fit was perfect, my boolits measures 10-12 BHN which according to the old hands here was just about right. It was also preached here that the taper crimp should be between 0.469 - 0.470, not more, on inspection I found mine to be much more, adjusted the crimping die out to the correct setting as above....and all my leading was gone in both pistols.
Just thought I would mention this here....
thumper,eh? is offline Boolit Bub Join DateApr 2010LocationTwin Cities, MNPosts28
If you are getting leading at the breech, the alloy is too hard for the application. Leading at the muzzle indicates the alloy is too soft for the application. The 45 is a very low pressure cartridge compared to .40, 9 mm, the revolver mags and such. Decades ago Speer ( and probably others ) used to sell swaged bullets for .38 target use. Velocity would be similar to .45 and they were pure lead.
I have one 1911 that is very sensitive to alloy hardness, Phillipine made ( read: cheap ). Probably needs to be fire lapped. But it works great with minimal leading if I use very soft bullets, softer than WW.
I'm not one for tumble lubing, prefer stronger lubes like LBT blue. I wouldn't bet on the tumble lubes holding up under higher pressure like the .40 S&W.
A buddy showed me a quick way to get the leading out. Wrap 0000 steel wool around an undersized brush until very snug in barrel; push it thru 6-10 times and you are good to go. On the cheap barrels it cleans out the crud quick and I'm not worried about wear / damage. Better barrels and fire lapped barrels won't have this problem assuming the lube holds up.
prs is online now Boolit Master Join DateJun 2008Posts750
The front shoulder of the front drive band may be "snagging" on the abrupt end of the chamber if the leade into the rifling is also abrupt.

prs

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Saturday, June 29, 2013

What different options are available for swaging 40 into 45acp??

A couple links to help you out

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...just-that-easy!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...tep-die-review


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Wednesday, June 12, 2013

200 gn LRN for 45ACP

If you're going to go hot, what meatsaw said was good advice.

That said however, I wouldn't load your 200g LRN's very hot. You're going to run into leading problems. I've been loading .45 extensively since 1984. If it were me, I'd use the HP-38, and somewhere between 4.6 and 5.0 grains, and they'll still deliver decent spunk.

I'd save my Unique for .357 or jacketed .45's. Hell, I'd damn near trade my car for a pound of Unique right now lol.

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Thursday, June 6, 2013

45ACP Mold

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!

Is there any mold that cast a bullet like 200 grs. in 45 Acp-.452 that will cut a nice cut hole like a wad cutter, Thanks- Joe
Ummmmmm.... yeah...

H&G 68 and clones.

"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
Ummmmmm.... yeah...

H&G 68 and clones.

......
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Yep.. Hensely and Gibbs 68 and Lyman 452460 to mention just two. They were designed for Bullseye target shooters where clean holes in paper are truly needed.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
... should one cast with the H&G 68, a fine bullet, the COL has to be perfect I have found. Also, using the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die aids the round to be smoothly chambered
kweidner is offline Boolit Master Join DateJan 2011Posts291
Yep.. Hensely and Gibbs 68 and Lyman 452460 to mention just two. They were designed for Bullseye target shooters where clean holes in paper are truly needed.
I own both of these. Both great molds. The 68 is a tom clone. Fantastic both of them. 4.9 bullseye lubed with felix sized at .452 is a recipe Like I have never seen. Awesome mold awesome load.
Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!
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Tuesday, May 28, 2013

45ACP leading like crazy - what am I doing wrong

^^^ you can lap your die and open it up... no lathe needed just a dowel, sandpaper, and oil:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...hlight=lap+die


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Monday, April 1, 2013

Can a .45ACP bullet be used with a .410?

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!

Pardon me on two points: 1) I wasn't sure which sub-forum to post this question, 2) I just ordered my Lyman Bullet Casting Handbook, so if my answer is there just tell me what page to look at when the handbook comes in.

I have a Taurus Judge which shoots both .45LC and 2.5" .410 shells. I will be casting and loading my own .45LCs. I will also be casting and loading .45ACPs for a Colt Officers ACP I also own. Since the .410 shells are very expensive, I was planning to get a MEC 600 Jr and begin loading my own. I was wondering if I could use the .45ACP bullets I'll be casting for my Colt instead of the standard 00 or 000 shot for the .410.

As an alternative, I was planning to buy the Lee 00 or 000 shot molds, but I thought it might be easier just to use the same bullets I'll be casting for my Colt.

I searched the forum and came up with two interesting theads which gave me a lot to think about, but did not answer my specific question. The two threads were:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?20473-Need-Help-Input-for-Custom-410-Wad-Slug-Mold-Design&p=228333&viewfull=1#post228333

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?158740-Here-s-a-treat-for-410-lovers

My question concerns only the use of these shells as practice rounds. My home defense rounds will be commerically purchased.

Interesting question concerning the judge.

Too much weight to the boolit, and it won't fit in the shell.

I'm sure others will get more advanced in their answers.

"When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan
Maybe I am mis-reading it but why would you want to put some 45 acp bullets in a 410 shell when the gun already takes 45 Colt cartridges?
http://www.whyteleatherworks.com/
so that the boolits don't have to travel about 4 feet before getting to the cylinder throats.
you have to measure stuff to see if it will fit.
measure the gun
the boolits
the brass case thickness.
you will have your answer.
it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Maybe I am mis-reading it but why would you want to put some 45 acp bullets in a 410 shell when the gun already takes 45 Colt cartridges?Good question. When I realized how expensive .410 shells were, I decided to load my own. I found that Lee had a mold for #00 and #000 shot, but that the cost of those molds ($63) were 50% higher than the cost of my .45ACP molds ($40). That got me to wondering if I couldn't simply use my .45ACP molds to produce slugs for the 410. I did a little arithmetic and found that the .410 #00 loads were 215 grains which compared nicely to the .45ACP's 230 grain weight. I figured the slightly under powered 230 grain projectile wouldn't cause a safety problem and since I was only planning to use them for range use I thought it worth asking about on the board.

Getting back to your question, though, I don't know. I just figured the .410 load would have a different feel and that I should practice with it as well as with the .45LCs.

so that the boolits don't have to travel about 4 feet before getting to the cylinder throats.
you have to measure stuff to see if it will fit.
measure the gun
the boolits
the brass case thickness.
you will have your answer.I'm still reading, but if I'm not mistaken the same bullets I cast for my .45ACP are used with my .45LC. If that is true, then the width of the bullet won't be a problem for the gun, providing it will fit inside the husk, and provided the loaded husk will fit inside the cylinder.

If this is all true, then I'm left with two remaining issues: shell length and powder charge.

I should be able to measure whether or not the bullet fits inside the standard .410 husk after the powder and wad have been added. It isn't clear to me if I need to be concerned about the crimp style. I read a bit on two posts (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?158740-Here-s-a-treat-for-410-lovers and http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?20473-Need-Help-Input-for-Custom-410-Wad-Slug-Mold-Design&highlight=410) which make me think it may have an impact.

As for the powder charge, I just planned to stay with the standard #00 load and not worry about figuring out what additional grains I might need to keep the fps up. Since these are for range use I figured I'd just tolerate the slower speed of the 230 grain bullets as compared with the 215 grain shot.

you might be going a different route if the 45 fits the barrel, the wad is gonna be a different complication.
you'll need to think about the 45 boolit as a slug and use a wad column and not a shot type wad.
if you use brass cases you'll need to trick the case into thinking it is the same size as a 45 colt case with a filler of some sort.

like I said sit down and measure.
then think about what you are trying to do here.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I don't think you will be able to make the 45 boolits work in the 410 hull due to the thickness of the plastic . Brass cases will probably do it, but I would want to know if the result will be the improvement you are looking for before buying too many of them.
I have a Judge and a few years ago I thought about making some long brass cases formed from 444 or maybe it was 460 S&W. I don't remember all of the details now since this was a few years ago and I dropped the project.
What I did discover is the throats of the Judge are long being designed to closer fit the 45 Colt cartridge. A 460 case would not go all the way into the cylinder and bottom out on the throat mouth.
What I also discovered was the bore of the revolver was way oversize. If I remember correctly it was like .010" over what a normal 45 revolver should be which explained why my factory 45 Colt bullets would key hole at 25 yds.
The 410 shells fit inside the throats of the revolver and if I remember correctly, the throats were oversize for a normal sized 45 boolit. Probably designed this way for easier extraction of 410 shot shells.
I am trying to go from memory on all of this and I tend to not remember details years gone by as well as I once did. But I did drop the project due to over size bore. I thought about reaming the cylinder throats out close to the end of the cylinder but the large bore of the barrel and not knowing how this may affect firing shot shells in the revolver after boring caused me to discontinue the project.
My Judge's main job was being my tractor gun that I shot rats with when bush hogging my pastures.

Now, back to your idea. It might work but I would suggest that you slug the bore if you want the 45 boolit to shoot accurate.
I don't think there is going to be enough room for you to put a 45 slug inside a 410 shot shell and have it chamber. As I said, the throats of the Judge are long and I don't think that the nose of the shot shell with a 45 boolit in it will go past the chamber mouth. It would be easy enough to test though but if it does chamber, it will be way undersized for the bore.
If you are just wanting to be able to shoot it such as a buckshot ball, I think you will have to size it way down. I don't remember the dimensions of 00 Buckshot but it's smaller than a 45 slug.

If you do that, you are going to have to have a special wad that would take up the space between the powder charge and the bottom of the boolit that would keep the boolit out to the end of the shot shell case and have enough room to crimp.
A 44 boolit might work.

Just my .02 but good luck.

If ever a time should come, when vain and aspiring men shall possess the highest seats in Government, our country will stand in need of its experienced patriots to prevent its ruin.
Samuel Adams

Sam

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
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