want to start swaging

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts1

I want to swag 7mm bullets but I seem to can't find any bids on YouTube and couple people from Facebook said this is the site to go to so hopefully someone can help

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts287

edit: you are already here... lots of answers in the archives, if you cant find it there then there are lots of helpful folks who will help...

all the info is here, i went from zero to making my first set of swaging dies and swaging my first j-words 4 weeks later...

if you want to buy your own dies and swaging systems there there are great die makers here on the forum with good pricing

This is a great place for info. Dave Corbin and Richard Corbin, brothers, both have a wealth of information on their websites as well.

I read for months before committing to a set of dies and a dedicated swaging press.

Bottom line, read, and ask questions. You are in a good place, no doubt.

"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2013LocationMedford, NJPosts9

I am in the same boat. As stated, read, read, and read some more. Unbelievable amount of knowledge and help available here - great site and group of people.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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I have a question about swaging copper

Hello

First off I am a complete novice when it comes to swaging. What I am trying to do is swag my primer pockets of 7.62 X 38mmR brass in order to convert it into berdan brass. I have read up on the process and watch many videos but all of the ones I have viewed are for larger brass such as 7.62 X 39 and 7.62 X 54R brass.

I already reform 32/22 brass and load it and shoot it from my nagant revolver but I would like to try and reuse military brass with boxer primers.

So my question is what thickness of copper would be best for swaging the primer pocket to decrease its diameter. Instead of a copper tubing which I do not think I can get small enough I was thinking about mashing small square sheets of soft copper with a RCBS primer pocket swager. I realize I will need to re-drill the flash hole as the copper will most likely fill the bottom of the primer pocket.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

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What different options are available for swaging 40 into 45acp??

A couple links to help you out

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...just-that-easy!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...tep-die-review

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Swaging Grooved Plain Alloy Boolits

Has anyone 'invented' a boolit swage die that can put in grooves? Lube grooves or paper patch gripping grooves.

Regards
303Guy

?It is hard enough to remember my opinions, without also remembering my reasons for them!? Nietzsche

Herters had them. They're on page 485 & 486 of my #80 catalog (1970)

"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety".
Benjamin Franklin

Any chance of a scan or photo of the pages?

Regards
303Guy

?It is hard enough to remember my opinions, without also remembering my reasons for them!? Nietzsche

a 3-4 piece squeeze die could be what you wanna make at home.
otherwise a canellure tool might do the job, the C&H I have will roll in three.
it should be enough to grip paper.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Have you tried swaging a cast and lubed bullet? If you get the rings filled with lube you can run the bullet through the die and get the nose you want without affecting the lube grooves. I make hollow points from round-nose bullets that way all the time . . .

Herters made pistol bullet swaging dies. My 1969 catalog shows them as having vertical grooves extending about halfway down the shank. they were offered in .38, .401, .44, and 45ACP. They cost $7.49 a set. Extra nose punches were $1.49. I think I'll send an order off today.

Bob

"Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety".
Benjamin Franklin

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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what favored 40 brass for swaging?

Is there any brand 40 brass that is favored more than another for swaging?

Boolit Buddy Join DateJan 2013LocationSoutheast MissouriPosts51

Agulia is my favorite. I have used just about everything I have picked up except for I think four different headstamps. Those four headstamps are kept separate to reload, once I get a 9mm. I don't know why, but Agulia seems to be the softest after it is annealed. It could just be my imagination, but that's what I think.

The government can have all the guns and ammo, even assault rifles. But they are getting them one boolit at a time(or 30, if it is an AR).

For me it's what ever fits the weight I'm looking to fill. I sort all of my brass, thanks to Grumpa, in lots within one grain. 60-62, 62-64, so on and so forth. This allows me to keep the die set and crank through a batch of bullets. I have noticed with his BB tipped dies, 40-45, they die isn't as sensitive as say the 9mm to 40. The BB acts as a buffer almost, allowing you to use the brass without sorting by weight. This is what I've found, your mileage may vary.

"The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the body of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country..." (James Madison, I Annals of Congress 434 [June 8, 1789]) Once the people find they can vote themselves money, that will herald the end of the republic.
Benjamin Franklin

I use Blazer
they seem to have the tightest weight tolerance of the brands I choose NOT to use for reloading.
Jon

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

I use them by weight and not by brand, if you ever weight sort a few thousand of them and look at the head stamps you'll notice that head stamp doesn't mean a whole bunch. I have mine sorted in bags of 1gr and I have up to 12 bags of different weights. WHY?? Early on I noticed variables when I swaged and weighing them seemed to solve most issues I was having.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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S&S Post, cut down brass for swaging

Just a heads up for anyone who swages .475, .500, or even light .510 bullets from cartridge brass, I have a listing in the Swapping and Sellin' section for some cut down 30-06 case head size brass.

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RCBS JR3 for swaging?

I've come across a used JR3 and was wonder if I could use this for swagging? I've been trying to do some research and can't seem to find a definitive answer. Seems like the handle is too short and I might not get enough leverage.

If you are going to make any considerable number of bullets, you really need the compound leverage feature, as well as the "O" frame. It not only saves wear and tear on your arm, but it is easier set to "top out" without relying on the "feel" of the handle. This results in more consistent pressures and point diameters on the bullets you make, which should show up as better targets.

I used a JR for a while as a dedicated derimming press. WAAAY too much effort, wouldn't even attempt swaging jacketed bullets on it.
"Course, now I have Corbin's, happy,happy,happy!

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2005LocationIndiana, USAPosts174

You might want to contact the RCBS Customer Service or Technical Personnel and ask them. It would be interesting to hear what they say.

Getting old is the best you can hope for.

I have a JR press that I would not consider using for swaging. I also have a RC Supreme That I broke within a month while swaging. If you have the funds available, do your self a favor and buy one of the Corbins dedicated swaging presses. It will make a world of difference.

You will be much happier with one of these: http://rceco.com/MN.asp?pg=products&specific=81&from=36

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

I'm gonna probably trade my father for his Rock Chucker since he is gonna be getting some of the bullets I'll be making... If not then I'll be getting a Classic Cast

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Looking at starting Swaging and looking for advice.

Boolit Buddy Join DateAug 2010Posts66

So I have thought of looking at starting to get into swaging mostly for 224 since it has around me been so hard to find or people are charging way to high of a price. I don't know much about doing this and looking for advice on cost to start and tools I need I have an old cast iron Lee press that now does not really have a job that I'm sure would work for this.

Also are all the dies $400+? Not trying to be cheap and I know after swaging 4K I would make up the money and then some. Any advice would do I'm trying to see if swaging is right for me.

40 cal from 9mm is the most cost effective option there is in my opinion whenit comes to making your own. You could by a die and a nice 40 cal pistol for less then it will take you to get into making 22 cals. Not trying to sway you from 22 cals but the 40 is just so easy and a great one to start with for those not sure and not wanting to get in to deep cost wise.

There isn't to many of us that offer the complete set of 22 cal dies. Search around, anything is possible, there are those here that can offer or have made it work with less expensive die options.

Many know of Corbins, Blackmon and myself, and I have told many that one would be very happy with either one they choose.

$225 and you could be making 40 cal JHP for nothing! Cost of scrap 9mm and scrap lead, a 3 cent primer and 2 cents worth of powder. That is cheaper shooting then 22lr! Somthing to think about when it comes to wether one is going to like making there own bullets or not. But...... you will have a tough time finding anyone here that doesn't like making their own bullets no matter how much they spent, what calliber they make or whos dies they use.

Step up to the press! Garentee you will like making your own

Good shooting

BT

Boolit Buddy Join DateAug 2010Posts66

40 cal from 9mm is the most cost effective option there is in my opinion whenit comes to making your own. You could by a die and a nice 40 cal pistol for less then it will take you to get into making 22 cals. Not trying to sway you from 22 cals but the 40 is just so easy and a great one to start with for those not sure and not wanting to get in to deep cost wise.

There isn't to many of us that offer the complete set of 22 cal dies. Search around, anything is possible, there are those here that can offer or have made it work with less expensive die options.

Many know of Corbins, Blackmon and myself, and I have told many that one would be very happy with either one they choose.

$225 and you could be making 40 cal JHP for nothing! Cost of scrap 9mm and scrap lead, a 3 cent primer and 2 cents worth of powder. That is cheaper shooting then 22lr! Somthing to think about when it comes to wether one is going to like making there own bullets or not. But...... you will have a tough time finding anyone here that doesn't like making their own bullets no matter how much they spent, what calliber they make or whos dies they use.

Step up to the press! Garentee you will like making your own

Good shooting

BT

Funny you should be the first to post because I was looking at the deal you had for the .224! I do own a 40,45 and soon a 9mm in pistol. Rifle I own 223 and 308. Right now I have the primers and powder for the small rifle a long with 5k+ brass! I would like to swag my 9mm and 45 acp at some point as for 40 I can get it for free do to my job! Yet I'd still like to swag that also since I have a few pistols that use that round.

In the end unless it is .224 for swagging I feel it's not worth the money! I have a lot of factory loaded ammo but l'm looking for something more long term!

I post here a lot as you will notice Yes I happen to offer dies too. I have seen a lot of people interested in swaging, especially the 22 cal from 22lr brass, only to get turned off from swaging all together just from the price of the 22 cal die set. Simply wanted to point out there are other cheaper options too for making your own bullets. Many here started with the simple 40 cals, with an enjoyable postive first experience the choice to invest in the cost of the 22 cal was easier for them to make since they allready knew wether or not they where going to enjoy it. Just didn't want to see another get turned away from making there own bullets because of the cost involved in the 22 cal set of dies.

Awesome you get plenty of 40 cal!

Swaging 22 cal bullets is a lot of fun and rewarding. Many here will be able to offer a lot of addivse on the different sets availble. Matter of fact it has been covered quite a bit. Anything you need to know about making your own can be found here.

BT

Boolit Buddy Join DateAug 2010Posts66

I post here a lot as you will notice Yes I happen to offer dies too. I have seen a lot of people interested in swaging, especially the 22 cal from 22lr brass, only to get turned off from swaging all together just from the price of the 22 cal die set. Simply wanted to point out there are other cheaper options too for making your own bullets. Many here started with the simple 40 cals, with an enjoyable postive first experience the choice to invest in the cost of the 22 cal was easier for them to make since they allready knew wether or not they where going to enjoy it. Just didn't want to see another get turned away from making there own bullets because of the cost involved in the 22 cal set of dies.

Awesome you get plenty of 40 cal!

Swaging 22 cal bullets is a lot of fun and rewarding. Many here will be able to offer a lot of addivse on the different sets availble. Matter of fact it has been covered quite a bit. Anything you need to know about making your own can be found here.

BT

Yet trying to sell or trade this ammo has been hard even with photos of ammo I have to sell or trade!

I can trade someone 1000 rounds Winchester 165gr Bond 40S&W or 1,000+ of Federal 55gr JSP but have found no one who is willing to trade or buy! I would like to buy dies for 224, 9mm, 40, 45, 308 for these dies!

Last edited by tayous1; 04-13-2013 at 02:01 PM.

Not trying to be a jerk,and don't take this the wrong way, but be careful what you say in a public forum. Remember, it is public. So that means ANYONE can see it, even your boss.

I know you have an "anonymous" screenname, but it may not be as anonymous as you think...Especially when I buy something from you and get your name and address to send the funds. Then I got all your info.

All it takes is one PO'd taxpayer to really make your life miserable.

Just my 2 cents. Maybe you should delete above posts. (Hint, Hint)

As for swaging you have come to the right place. I just started swaging 22 cal bullets (last night) and have already been helped immenslely. BUT, use the search function in the upper corner as much as possible, as many of your questions may have already been answered...multiple times over already. Good luck with swaging if you decide to jump in!

An armed society is a polite society.

the BB knows

Boolit Master Join DateDec 2005Posts168

So I have thought of looking at starting to get into swaging mostly for 224 since it has around me been so hard to find or people are charging way to high of a price. I don't know much about doing this and looking for advice on cost to start and tools I need I have an old cast iron Lee press that now does not really have a job that I'm sure would work for this.

Also are all the dies $400+? Not trying to be cheap and I know after swaging 4K I would make up the money and then some. Any advice would do I'm trying to see if swaging is right for me.

Just thought I'd mention making 224 bullets from 22 rimfire cases is a lot of work.
Sort & clean rimfire cases
anneal them making sure there's no live ones in the batch
clean them again as some annealing processes turn the cases a different color
run them thru the de-rim die to make them into jackets
clean them again
cast cores or buy wire and cut them
lube then swage the cores
clean the cores
load cores into jackets or do them one by one, making sure core hand is lube free
seat the cores
point the seated cores
clean the bullets
every 100 operations you do takes about 10-15 min on a swaging press. It may take longer on a reloading press as you have to knock out the core/bullet by tapping on the punch with a mallet.

Have fun.

Last edited by 30yrcaster; 04-13-2013 at 05:56 AM.

A couple of things come to mind every time I read a thread like this one.

Buy once/cry once
The tools/swaging dies your thinking about buying are an investment. They will do nothing but go up in value. You can use them for years & then sell them for more than what you paid for them.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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A dumb, dumb swaging question, .22 Magnum brass to make heavier .224" bullets???

Hi all,

I have seen the dies or kits around for years to make 50 to 55 grain-ish projectiles out of .22LR brass. I was just wondering if you could use .22 Magnum brass and make heavier .224" projectiles???

Thanks!

The punch to derim them may need to be longer.
I use them to make 6mm/.243 bullets.

Okay, thanks! I was just wondering if it would be possible to make something comparable to the much coveted (read expensive) 77 grain Sierra Match King bullet. Thanks!

while yes you can make a 77 grain bullet with 22 mag brass. Its not going to rival the Match King because in its best its not going to be a match bullet. But it should give you ok accuracy and do a pretty good job of delivering kinetic energy to a varmint or target down range.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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