Showing posts with label Cleaning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cleaning. Show all posts

Thursday, October 10, 2013

Cleaning a revolver

I do essentially what Mr Borland describes above. About once a year, pop the side plate and spray it with brake cleaner. Then use the tiniest drop of Break-Free CLP I can get out of my needle oiler. One little bitty drop on each side of the hammer and it's bearing, one LBD on the rebound slide thingie.

After shooting, I run a pretty wet patch of Break-Free CLP down the barrel and in each of the cylinder holes. Then after the drive home, I run a dry patch through to remove the excess oil. Rarely do I use a brass brush. I don't use any other chemicals or solvents. CLP removes anything I want to remove, just takes longer than something like Hoppe's #9.

I don't try and remove black marks from the cyl face.

I toothbrush around the outside of the forcing cone, allowing it to pick up any CLP that finds it's way there from the bbl patch work.

Whole thing takes maybe five minutes, dozen patches, six or eight drops of oil.

I don't ever want to see anything the consistancy of grease in any of my guns. Well worked in CLP is all I want/need/use. Been doing that for half a century.

Sgt Lumpy


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Monday, August 19, 2013

Care To Explain Cleaning A Lead Pot With Water?

I've read on here that some folks clean they're pot with water, or maybe my mind just made that up for me I'm not sure.

If so could someone explain how you go about doing it? Dawn dishwashing soap maybe and your been home too long teenagers toothbrush? Or maybe I'm just imagining I read it.


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Monday, June 24, 2013

Tip when cleaning an "antiqued" C&B Revolver

I've "antiqued" three cap and ball revolvers and liked the way they turned out. However, I had to do one twice.

I decided to rinse the parts with very hot water so they would dry quickly before lubing them. The hot water turned the rust sections into dark black "bluing". That was my introduction to rust bluing.

So if you want to keep your "antique" finish intact don't clean or rinse your parts in hot water.


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Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Cleaning Aluminum Molds

Hey guys,

Tried to search something up but could only come up with stuff that regarded the first clean.

Anyways, I've doing around 6-7 casts on my Lee 2C molds and on the inside you can see little brown tinted lead or maybe just dirt. Anyways its too hard to just wipe off with a towel and don't want to scrape at it if I don't need to.

Any type of brass wool or something that I can use on Al molds?

Thanks in advance, sorry if asked prior.


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Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Cleaning stainless pins

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!

How do you guys clean your stainless pins? My outdoor range tends to get a lot of dirt and sand in the cases, which is now building up in the pins. I thought about maybe using a big magnet and separating the pins from the sand but I don't have one. Another thought was screen but so far what I have tried the pins fall through. Maybe I could put the pins in some pantyhose and squirt them off in the sink?
Just wipe them off one by one it shouldn't take more than a couple of weeks, I hope this helps.
Well the pins came through the pantyhose too. I guess I will have to find a big magnet and do it that way.
Well the buildup of sand and grit could have been avoided. From now on I'll just have to make sure to rinse off the cases before wet tumbling them.
You should always rinse your cases well before you tumble. Then use a RCBS media cleaner drum to separate the brass and pins. I also use a large magnet to pick up any loose pins.
Shooter of the "HOLY BLACK" SASS 81802 AKA FAIRSHAKE; NRA ; BOLD; WARTHOG;Deadwood Marshal;Bayou Bounty Hunter; So That his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat
If you use a magnet to collect the pins, use a thin cloth or a plastic bag between the pins and the magnet. It makes it much easier to separate the pins from the magnet!

...especially if you use an old speaker magnet, like I did!


What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
- Henry S. Haskins in ?Meditations in Wall Street?

"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rapidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end." ...Unknown

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"


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Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Die Cleaning

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!

I've looked and haven't seen a thread on this so if someone knows of one please direct me there.

I've bought several used die sets lately and want to clean them first. My question is what to use on them. I have been spraying the insides with Ballistol and scrubbing them and that cleans them up but I am wondering whether any residue from the cleaning agent will interact with powder since the cleaning agent dissolves powder. I do wipe out the dies with clean patches after cleaning.
So, is so little cleaner left that no problem should result or should I use something else?

I use a bore brush, solvent, and patches. Just like cleaning a barrel in my opinion.
I used to clean with Hoppes. Now I use the ultrasonic with heat and the gun parts solution.
50 cal bore brush in a hand drill running slow will get the worst out.
Soak in a solvent for a couple day's will get a lot off then a quick look over with a "tooth brush" will get the rest.
Carburetor cleaner works for me. Spray it and wipe it out, good to go.
Trick for dies with a little surface rust: Get some mild phosphoric acid solution (sold in paint and hardware stores as "rust prime" or similiar label--I buy in in gallons and it is not expensive and good on de-rusting all types of steel projects) and coat inside and out. Let dry and rinse in water, then oil. You then clean like cleaning a rifle barrel and lightly lube with lube of your choice. The acid solution does not take anything off but the rust, but kills the rust and leaves protective coating. On some dies, it discolors the dies, but no beauty contest, just reloading dies.
I inherited a reloading setup from a friend and neighbor who died and his dies were stored in a moist outside building and had some surface rust. We cleaned it all with rust prime and my son in law is using much of it today.
"A gentleman will seldom, if ever, need a pistol. However, if he does,he needs it very badly!" Sir Winston Churchill
giddyupgo55 is offline Boolit Buddy Join DateApr 2009Posts53
I use a bore brush and Hoppies #9. Has always worked for me, as long as there is no rust.
Lyman sonic cleaner, then oiled nicely to prevent rust.
Carburetor cleaner works for me. Spray it and wipe it out, good to go.+1 for carburetor cleaner. Spray some on and wipe it down with shop towels or paper towels. I also have easy access to an air compressor, so often i'll use that to clean out any remaining dirty cleaner I can't reach with my tools.

EDIT: This is also a great way to clean out your Lee sizing dies, as they tend to get gunked up with lube from time to time.

Many years ago I needed to clean some gunk out of a loading die and the only thing I had was plain old drug store rubbing alcohol. I tried it, and it cleans fine. I mostly just use a shop paper towel soaked with it. It cuts oil, bullets lube or whatever out of dies. It is cheap, available anywhere, evaporates off and leaves no residue. Works for me...
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
I like carb cleaner to blast out the chunks and remove any built up case lube in my size dies and clear the vent hole, and a bore brush to hog out boolit lube from my seating dies. Then a quick shot of lube to keep them from rusting. I am going to have to get some rust prime and try that, i have a few older die sets that could use it!
Raisin' Black Angus cows, outta gas, outta money, outta tags, low on boolits, but full 'a hope on the Rocky Mountain Eastern Slope!
Alba an Aigh. Blessed are we few Armenians!
"If you ain't shootin', you should be reloadin' if you ain't reloadin' you should be movin', if you ain't movin', somebody's gonna come by and cut your head off and put it on a stick!" Words to fight by, from Clint Smith
I like carb cleaner to blast out the chunks and remove any built up case lube in my size dies and clear the vent hole, and a bore brush to hog out boolit lube from my seating dies. Then a quick shot of lube to keep them from rusting. I am going to have to get some rust prime and try that, i have a few older die sets that could use it!Try vinegar. Takes rust right off!
I take the dies apart and spray with carb cleaner. Anything rust or rough gets a quick hit with a scotch brite pad.
You may not post new threadsYou may not post repliesYou may not post attachmentsYou may not edit your postsForum Rules

Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"


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Friday, March 22, 2013

Cleaning up dirty 22lr cases

and the Stainless Steel Media company actually advertises on our site, look at the top of the webpage

Thats where I bought my wet tumbling setup from. There is also a member of this site that makes his own out of PVC pipe and sells them on his website.

Here is a photo of some brass that I just washed

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Some of the cases are stained but the wet tumbling cleans them 99%


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