Using a pistol to fight to your rifle.

Using a pistol to fight to your rifle. I work retail at a gun shop that has a range that also runs classes. So an instructor asked me to help out with an advanced class, and it came time for the rifle/pistol barrier shooting drill. The idea was to start unarmed, shoot from one location, then move to another location to retrieve a magazine for a reload, and make sure to engage all targets at least four times each with only hits on the blue areas. All the students ran it either with a pistol only or started with a rifle and transitioned to a pistol, moving all the way to the barriers closest to the targets in order to accurately engage those targets.

I ran it last and I decided to start with a Condition 3 pistol and move to an unloaded rifle; a pistol is almost always more handy, but I wanted to show that you should use your pistol to get to your rifle. And with the rifle, I didn't have to move forward to be accurate enough to engage the targets effectively without collateral damage.

I have a link to the video below. My excuse for my slow shooting (especially with the pistol; I forgot it wasn't at Condition 1) is that I haven't run a shooting drill like this since I got out of the Marine Corps 13 years ago . But my hits were almost all right on target and my two rifle reloads were good, so I can't complain (though I should have finished the second reload before I popped out from behind cover).

Oh, and I did have three hits on the white no-hit areas on the rightmost target, but that was from shooting through another target; my excuse for that is my home-defense .223 ammo is 50 gr. V-Max which is unlikely to over-penetrate .

Thanks for watching the video and feel free to critique anything you see; I want to get better and the best way is to be willing to take constructive criticism.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xgkhsfyz599c49d/VIDEO0056.mp4

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Anyone using Rem Small Pistol Primers ?

Anyone using Rem Small Pistol Primers ? I use lots of them. I assume you are talking about the 1 1/2 primers, not the 5 1/2 mag primers.

I follow the recommendation and don't use them in 40 S&W, 357 Sig and 357 Mag of higher pressure loads.

On a couple of revolvers that had high firing pin protrusion, a few cracked in the center. To keep this from happening, I uniformed the pockets and switched to CCI primers. I don't know if the Rems would have cracked again after uniforming, but I didn't want to take a chance on eroding the tip of the firing pin.

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Starting load for m1 garand using imr-4895

My developed loads were for a 150 SMK 47.5 grains IMR 4895 and for a 168 SMK 47.0 grains IMR 4895.

With either bullet start at 45.0 grains and stop where I stopped.

__________________
If I'm not shooting, I'm reloading.

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Problem with bullet seating using once-fired rifle brass

Hi folks,

I'm just getting started with reloading and have encountered a problem. I have a bunch of once-fired .243 Win brass that I've saved up. I was intending to neck size only. However, the neck opening on these cases is too narrow - bullets don't fit. I'd expect that, having been fired, the bullet should be loose in the neck until it's resized. But it doesn't fit at all. I suspect it may be due to an overly aggressive factory crimp. It's visible as a very slight inward curvature at the opening of the neck.

I suppose I could just seat the bullets without any resizing, but I'm not sure how wise that would be. Otherwise, is there some sort of flaring die I can get to open up the necks and then re-size?

Thanks in advance.

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Anyone using Vortex Crossfire II?

I'm pretty sure the Crossfire is made in China if that matters to you.

My 10/22 sports a cheap Tasco fixed 4x I bought at KMart back in the early 80s...

If I was buying for it now, I would probably buy a Nikon M223 2-7x or something similar.

__________________
SailSkiDrive
Hk USP 45 Expert, USP 40, USP 9, SIG P226, S&W M&P9, Hk 4, Makarov, Desert Eagle 40, Beretta FS92 Centurion, Kimber TLEII 1911A1, Glock 22, SIG P225, 1943 Rem Rand 1911A1, S&W mod 64, Walther PPQ, SIG P229, Browning BDA 45 (SIG P220), Hk45, SIG P230

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Using 454 as 45 colt

Hi all, my first post on this forum.

Looking for input from 45 colt shooters. LGS has Freedom arms model 83 454 in stock. I've wanted Freedom Arms for a while, and would like a 45 colt.

I know I can use this to shoot 45 colt. I don't think I'd shoot much more than a handful of 454's. Is there any downside to using a 454 as 45 colt.

Thanks for responses.

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Question about hot 38 loads using pure lead.

I have been thinking about casting either Ideal 358250 or RCBS 38-162-swc in pure lead for use as a SD rounds for the house. I was wondering if anybody has tried to use pure in a hot 38/357 load gas checked or not. I like the idea of a heavy soft boolit to expand.

I find 50/50, WW/pure, expands well at 38 Spc. velocities. I want enough penetration to go through heavy clothing.

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Anyone using the lee 405 grain Non Gas check boolit?

I have used a 420 plain base at 1650. It leaded a tiny amount but easily gave 20 accurate rounds with no problem. Good enough for hunting.

I also had good fit, a smooth bore, and no tight spots in bore.

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Shaving lead using rcbs dies,

Boolit Mold Join DateFeb 2013LocationLambertville MiPosts1

Hi folks, Im loading 175gn lead 40 S&W, I have sized and lubed them to .401, my problem is that when I seat the bullet,I am shaving some lead,Its leaving a ring around the case mouth that I need to scrape and or peel away, Im usind a dillon 550 press and RCBS dies, I have adjusted my powder/ flair tube To the bare min bell (almost none) to the max bell that my seating die will handle,,I was wonderind if the dies are junk, (they are brand new), Im also wondering if maybe there is a type of flair tube like the lyman m die for dillon, any help would be great,, thanx.

Are you seating and crimping in one step?

Troyboy714,

In your 3 die RCBS die set, the second die to be used is the expander die.

This die brings the case mouth back from it's sized dimention to what should be close to the correct size - depending on the size of your cast bullet - for proper neck tention of the seated bullet.

This die ALSO flairs the mouth of the case, which if properly adjusted whould prevent shaving of the lead from the bullet.

I had what sounds to be the same problem with .45acp and cast, and it took awhile for me to fine out why I was having problems with the action not closing.

I, until proven otherwise, think this was a problem with the Lee factory crimp die that I was also using. A die by the way, that is a waist of money unless and until you have a proven need.

I see that Love Life ask about when you crimp your loads, and you will find quite a few folk who feel it is best to seat and crimp in two steps rather then one.

However, I have used just a standard 3 dies set of dies for many years without any negative issues and feel that proper adjusment will in almost all cases do every thing that is needed without the extra step.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

^^Correct. I have no issues seating and crimping in the same step. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it down right, but then the lock ring takes care of further issues. If possible though I prefer to seat and crimp in different steps. Just a personal preference.

The OP is using a Dillon 550 and using the Dillon funnel to do case mouth belling. RCBS dies are usually 3 die, but i have been known to be wrong before!!! I figured seating and crimping in the same step is the issue here, and minor die tweaking may be in order.

Process f elimination. Bell the mouth enough that boolit will start by hand, seat boolit part way only.rmove and check for shaving, if non found seat boolit a little more an check again,continue seating boolit in small steps right up to the crimp starts. If the crimp rolls the case mouth in before the boolit is fully seated to the finished OAL then it will cause shaving, if the boolit is not straight and the die does not center and straighten it soon enought it will get shaved. Some seating dies commonly labeled Speed Seaters are better at correcting mis aliegened boolits than others. Some progressive presses come with expanders sized for jacketed not case bullets.

Added: Are you using the correct nose shape seater?

Last edited by Case Stuffer; Today at 03:51 PM.

NRA Endowment Member
Vet . 2nd of the 47th 9th.Inf. Viet Nam Mar. 67-68

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Man Join DateFeb 2013LocationMissouriPosts84

A lot of people rave about the lyman M dies.

If you have beveled to the point the seated won't take the case, your alloy may be too soft with too much tin. Causes the lead to roll up, not get shaved.

I don't load .40, but I do load a lot of .357, and I long ago found that I have to pick and choose from among my expanders to get one that does the job correctly for the particular brass I'm using. Stiff brass that's either very new or due for an annealing needs an expander about .001" to .002" bigger than softer brass does, due to the springback.

I once had a large lot of range brass that I had to sort carefully to get groups of cases that all expanded the same. A real PITA - I don't take random range brass anymore even as a gift!

"You are not a hoarder until you have exceeded a lifetime supply"

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2013Posts193 Boolit Man Join DateDec 2011LocationYakima, WAPosts141

I had a set of 357 Magnum RCBS steel dies several years ago that never gave any problems. I later purchased a new RCBS taper crimp carbide set and found the sizing die sized the cases to 0.372" while others sized to 0.373". The flaring die was the same as that for 9mm so it didn't flare much. I also had lead bullets shave from the bullet bases while seating. Some of the time I couldn't seat jacketed bullets in my RC II press. The flaring die didn't flare the case enough. I crimp and seat in two separate stations. I finally purchased CH dies that are 0.374" inside diameter to size the brass to 0.375", the same diameter as new Starline brass. CH measured a "reject" carbide die left over from the past and sent it to me. I couldn't be happier. Eventually, I purchased a 550 press and the CH dies work perfectly. Ultimately, I replaced my RCBS pistol dies with CH. To sum it up, the problem may be the RCBS dies.

Make sure you're not taper crimping excessively and seating the bullet deeper at the same time. This will shave lead every time. Can't seat a bullet without shaving if the case mouth is being squeezed down simultaneously to a too small diameter. It's easier to get away with this with a jacketed bullet than a cast one.

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50/50 for cast boolits using smokeless powder?

I have a bunch of 50/50 lube(beeswax and crisco) that I made up for ctgs when I was shooting black powder loads in my '61 ctg. convert Colt in 38spl and my Sharps carbine in 45/70 loaded with black powder. My question is will this stuff work well enough for cast lead boolits in 9x18mm Mak or should I stick with Alox? Thanks in advance.

"Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!"

NO ONE has used or knows if you can use 50/50 Beeswax/Crisco lube on smokeless powder handgun rounds like the 9x18mm? Wow! I thought ya'll knew everything around here, LOL.

"Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!"

frank - I don't really know if anybody uses the Crisco mix with the BW. I kind of think not, because Crisco is rumored to "go bad" after a while ?? Stink ?? So - guys probably don't use it on purpose for smokeless. Just my take. Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Ahh, ok, guess that might make sense. I got the 50/50 recipe off of a black powder forum that I use to hand out on and it works great for black powder ctgs., just wonder if it'd be stout enough to work with smokeless powder bullets. Also, is there any way to unmix the beeswax from the crisco? I could maybe separate it and use the beeswax with something else to make up some lube if?

"Gentlemen, you can't fight in here! This is the War Room!"

Frank: I thought someone else might respond to the "unmix" question and I forgot about it until tonight. I'm no chemist or knowledgeable boolet lube person, but I think unmixing alox and crisco is sort of like unshooting a boolet.

I make my own NRA 50/50 from Alox 350, microcrystalline wax and beeswax. If I didn't already have the Alox 350, I would just buy lube from LsStuff. If your time is worth more than a couple of dollars per hour, it is cheaper to buy.

the problem with unmixing them is they both go to the same place.
you could try boiling them in water until the lube melts, and see if they separate and reform in different layers.

don't use the wifes new pot or one she likes.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I am pretty sure I would just load up 50 and go have a range consultation with Dr. Gunn before I do anything....then:

If it fails it will be due to the viscosity of the lube not the components used to make it. If it leaves you less than happy......simply incrementally add small amounts of paraffin to it and try again....I bet you go woohoo by the second or third try. The paraffin will help to encapsulate the natural parts with petro parts...you will find happiness simply adding a bit of paraffin......I will bet on it in fact.

"Happiness is a target rich environment"

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who's using 4007ssc?

Forum Rules Firearms Safety Firearms Photos Links Library Lost Password Email Changes Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Swaging using pneumatics

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I have broken the number 1 rule with using lee pots....

I just spent the last 40 mins cleaning up 15 pounds of 50/50 lino/coww. I walked away from the pot long enough to check on something in the house and came back to a rather large pile of alloy. At least I know I am not the first or last to do it.

I'm still pretty new to casting and use a Lee Pro 4-20 pot and would like to ask a question. I've read of this happening and have to admit I'm guilty of leaving the pot on and running in the house to grab something a time or two. I've always wondered when this happens if it is typically on initial fire up of the pot and something sticks or freezes from sitting a while or if it happens after an hour or two of casting. Would you mind to elaborate a little on how this event transpired so I can learn a little here as well?

I get that it isn't a good idea to leave molten pots of lead sitting around unattended but a guy has to hit the head, line out his two sons playing in the yard, forgets something he needs in the basement on the reloading bench etc.... Just always been curious how likely this is to happen after the pot is up to temp vs. on start-up if that makes sense.

Just turn the valve pin with a screwdriver and check that it's not dripping before you go. And try not to be away for two long. I've never had a major pile-up but drips yes. So watch it for a few minutes before going anyway. No guaranties!

Regards
303Guy

?It is hard enough to remember my opinions, without also remembering my reasons for them!? Nietzsche

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=44691 Tons of great info in this sticky. MANY of us have this pot, and ALL of us who use it have come up with solutions (some good and some not so good) to make these things work. I love mine, BUT I too have made some modifications to make it work just swell. Thankfully enough, I have known several who have gone before me and LEARNED fro their mistakes. Never shall I walk away from you, Oh venerable Lee 4-20!! Or any pot, for that matter.

There are other threads on the subject and a REALLY good post from a senior member here who used threaded 3/8" rod and placed a weight on top of the valve pin to prevent the dreaded drip. I will look for it later unless someone else beats me to it.....

These valve pins "float" in molten alloy and adding weight WILL solve a lot of the issues we face.

Ain't it fun? har har!!

The Government that robs from Peter to pay Paul can always count on the support of Paul.

You know that wooden knob on the side that is used to lift the pin. Unscrew the wooden knob and put a few washers on the threaded rod that the knob screws on and then put the wooden knob back on. Has been working wonders for mine the past 3-4 years. No drippies....

mine only drips at first, once it gets up to temp it will start dripping. Easy to fix if I am there. Most of the time its just a slow drip, but I am finding that with lino it runs like water.

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Anyone using Tula Prmers?

I have no experiance with Tula Primers at all, but would like to buy some LR 7.62 Nato primers made by them for my cast boolit 30-06 Garand loads. Has anyone here had any experiance with them?

Mtgrs737
Still Learning!

NRA Life Member
Life long OZ resident

Personality type: Compulsive/Excessive - I don't know what that means, all I know is, if I like something, I want a lot of it!

Pray to put "One nation, Under God" back in our country! We will never be a Great Nation without HIM!

SOCIALISM is a PHILOSOPHY of FAILURE, the GREED of IGNORANCE and the GOSPEL of ENVY, It's inherent value is the EQUAL SHARING of MISERY. -Winston Churchill

I bought 5K of 'em last year. They work fine for me.

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2011LocationEast ArkansasPosts11

I have loaded over 5K .45 AP and only had one that didn't go bang. That should be a pretty good average.

I've loaded over a 1000 and they ALL went bang

Yes, I've used over 15k Tula primers and they are good. They are a little tighter fit, so need a little more pressure to seat.

OK, sounds like a good primer to spark my Garand loads. Thanks Fellas!

Mtgrs737
Still Learning!

NRA Life Member
Life long OZ resident

Personality type: Compulsive/Excessive - I don't know what that means, all I know is, if I like something, I want a lot of it!

Pray to put "One nation, Under God" back in our country! We will never be a Great Nation without HIM!

SOCIALISM is a PHILOSOPHY of FAILURE, the GREED of IGNORANCE and the GOSPEL of ENVY, It's inherent value is the EQUAL SHARING of MISERY. -Winston Churchill

I am on my second box of 1000 and have had no FTF whatsoever. In todays climate, if I found some more TULA primers for sale I would buy them without hesitation. They do not have my favorite mfg.'s name on the box but they work fine.

Its not the AR-15, its the PG -13.

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Reloading 45 ACP on a Dillon RL550B using "Clays"

I was reloading some 45 ACP on my RCBS single stage press, currently waiting on some accessories from Dillon in order to get
my RL550B up and running. During my reloading session it seemed at times "difficult" for the RBCS Uniflow powder dispenser to throw a consistent charge of 3.8 grains of "Clays". I love using "Clays" in my 45 ACP reloads but was wondering if I'm going to have to find a different powder. Anyone out there using Clays in their RL550B press having this issue I hope not because my Sig P220 will eat that powder up.

Winners go home, survivors go to the hospital and losers go to the morgue.

NRA Life Member

I reload 38 Specials on a 550 using Clays all the time. It meters just fine using the small powder bar. It shouldn't be a problem with the bigger 45 powder funnel.

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts1

I had the same problem with my RCBS - it does not seem to like the flake powder. I bought a Lee Perfect Powder for cheap money and use it just for the Clays - it works flawlessly.

Boolit Mold Join DateApr 2012Posts11

I use clays and bullseye in an old dillon 450 for 45acp with no trouble.

I have used Clays and Universal Clays in a Dillon for years--have both the older powder measures and the newer twin arm one.

"A gentleman will seldom, if ever, need a pistol. However, if he does,he needs it very badly!" Sir Winston Churchill

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2010LocationOhioPosts278

Dillon measures do well with Clays for me. You should have no problem.

"Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't after you." Joe Heller

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2008Posts42

Dillon measures do well with Clays for me. You should have no problem.Ditto,
I've run 30K or so of H&G 130's with 3.5-3.8 of clays with my 550.
Al

While I don't use the 550 for 45, all of the dillon measures except the SD interchange and they all use the same powder bars. Loaded for 45 using Clays for years.

From the first batch to the ones I shot last weekend, have all been fine.

You might pull the powder bar and make sure it has no trash in it. It happens. Some guys polish so the powder will flow better. I have problems with Unique and found the suggestion on this site to tape an fish tank bubbler to the powder funnel. Works great. the vibration keeps the powder moving.

Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!

I've put a lot of clays and universal clays through my Dillon powder measure with narry a problem

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Using Lee Rifle FCD to compress base of bullet

Boolit Buddy Join DateAug 2010LocationTennesseePosts69

I am knocking around a weird idea, so I thought I would ask here. Would it be possible to use a rifle FCD to compress the bottom of a PBS 9 mm lead bullet enough to seat a regular gas check? I told you it was weird.

That is not the first time I've read your idea. It is neither new nor weird. It works. I prefer to use plain base gas checks I make from soda can material. They work very well and are fun to make. I only have 1 35 cal gas check mold and 1 45 cal gas check mold. The rest are plain base molds. I would like to remove the gas check shanks from both molds so I never have to buy or trade for regular checks again. I have a standard check maker in 30 cal and 1 on order for 22 cal but the rest will be plain base checks for me.

"A person cannot exercise their right to speak freely if they have been stripped of their ability to defend themselves and repel those forces who would seek to quell their speech." Me

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Can 357maximum be reloaded using 357mag dies??

Converting my 357mag Handi rifle to 357maximum and wondered if the max brass can be reloaded using the mag dies or
do I need to buy the dedicated 357max dies??
Thanks, Ronald Woodruff

Last edited by coaldust; Yesterday at 10:59 AM. Reason: spelling

Life member NRA and Texas State Rifle Assoc.
Big bore air rifle shooter

Yes, that's all I use. I even made a spacer to use with my Lee Loader.

Best,
Mike

NRA Life Member
Remember Ira Hayes

What type of spacer and where do you insatall it??

Life member NRA and Texas State Rifle Assoc.
Big bore air rifle shooter

Boolit Master Join DateFeb 2007Locationnortheastern california desertPosts303

If your press allows you to back off the dies enough, it works fine. I suppose there may be some guns that allow the cartridge base to swell enough that you may not be able to use the reloaded ammo in another gun. But it will likely still be usable in that individual firearm.

Boolit Man Join DateMar 2012LocationALASKAPosts86

I use Lee dies for pretty much everything. Good dies at good prices and I'm sorta chea..... um frugal. Anyway, you can't use, according to Lee, their 38/357 dies for the MAX. I just bought a set of dedicated 357 mag dies from them just for the MAX. I've got everything I need for it now except the barrel from MGM to go on my Encore. Dang, them things are expensive. Still got a few more pennies to go, but soon. I'm planning on launching big heavy boolits (250 and 300 grainers) at subsonic velocities through a suppressor.

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using small magnum primers

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2010Posts18

I've been unable to find any small pistol primers anywhere due to the panic and everybody buying up all the stock. I do have some small magnum primers and am thinking of using these for 9 mm. Should I start with a reduced powder load or use the recommended starting load for any given powder?

I loaded up some 9MM and 38 spl with magnums. I think that the 38's were actually more acurate with 4.3 grns of Unique. Unfortunately the SR9 would not toach off the primers for some reason, so I don't know how they work in that gun. BTW, SR9 went back to Ruger yesterday.

As for your question I would start low (at least 10% below max) and work up with your particular firearm as you should do with any new load.

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

Recommended starting load should be safe with the magnum primers. Usually it's well under ten percent of the maximum.

Winelover

Recommended starting load should be safe with the magnum primers. Usually it's well under ten percent of the maximum.

Winelover

It seems that the online data provided by the manufacturers of powder appear to be max loads. If this is wrong please correct me. I have been treating this info as max loads.

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

Boolit Bub Join DateFeb 2013Posts39

I loaded up some 9MM and 38 spl with magnums. I think that the 38's were actually more acurate with 4.3 grns of Unique. Unfortunately the SR9 would not toach off the primers for some reason, so I don't know how they work in that gun. BTW, SR9 went back to Ruger yesterday.

As for your question I would start low (at least 10% below max) and work up with your particular firearm as you should do with any new load.

Your now the 4th person this month to send back a gun to Ruger that I know of... (other 3 are real life buddies). Hmm seems their QC is lacking.

But to the OP you should be okay at starting load. If your a bit nervous, back it down an additonal 10% and see where that puts you.

It seems that the online data provided by the manufacturers of powder appear to be max loads. If this is wrong please correct me. I have been treating this info as max loads.When a manufacturer only lists one powder charge (not a min.-max.) it is usually the "do not exceed" load. Common practice amoung reloaders is to reduce the listed load by 10% and continue from there, if the charge is insuffecient/inaccurate.

Boolit Mold Join DateAug 2012Posts9

I have loaded my normal load of 4.5 grains of unique under a 125 gr cast booklet with small pistol magnum primers with no problem in a taurus pt92 and sig sp2009

It seems that the online data provided by the manufacturers of powder appear to be max loads. If this is wrong please correct me. I have been treating this info as max loads.That might be the case but I get my data the old fashioned way---------out of reloading manuals that provide starting loads.

Winelover

That might be the case but I get my data the old fashioned way---------out of reloading manuals that provide starting loads.

Winelover

My problem is I haven't bought a new loading manuel since I started reloading. I use the online stuff just to make sure I am not over doing it with powders that the formula might have changed slightly.

A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

I used magnum primers with 4.6 gr of unique in my 9mm with excellent results. My question??? Has anyone ever used small rifle in a small pistol? I know rifle powders differ from pistol powders but are they different? Just wondering

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Resizing die for 45 acp: why have i been using it?

I was re-reading chapters in my reloading manuals about neck-sizing rifle cartridges after being fire-formed in my gun. Yeah, lee mostly.

Then thought, why not pistol cartridges? The case has expanded to fit my chamber, and obviously is big enough for my boolit, so why the full length resize?

I put a few 45 acp cases through the sizer die. It took 3-4 thousandths off the ID and OD at case mouth. Went from 451 ID to 448 ID. WTF?

So I backed out my resizing/depriming die until it did nothing to the cartridges. Moved the decapper rod to still punch out the old primer.

Backed out the flare die until no flare. Boolit seated about the same as usual, with a little less resistance than usual.

Tried the plunk test... Pass!

Tapped the boolit tip hard on the bench... No change to OAL. So neck tension still seems pretty good.

Ran through the lee FCD with no crimp, just case sizing, and it did almost nothing. Cinched it down to provide the slightest crimp, and things seemed no worse.

My cases have almost perfectly straight walls now (no bulge), and my case working has been reduced to a minimum. As far as I can tell yet, my boolits are also not being sized down at all by the case or the FCD.

Does anyone else skip sizing their 45 acp cases? What problems am I failing to see?

I feel like I just stumbled into a method to achieve the reloading practices I hear so many here talk about, including neglecting crimp and minimal flare.

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Adjusting Flare Using the Lee Expander Die

Wow. It seems that every beginner (just as I was) has the same question. There is no stupid question. It's just inquiring minds want to know. The above replies are true and should be taken to heart. However, there's just no getting around practical experience. I would suggest that you take an empty case unprimed and put it through the expanding die and see if you can start a boolit with just your fingers. You should be able to insert the boolit without shaving off any lead with just your fingers. I'm not talking about seating the boolit with your fingers, just get it started and let the press do the rest.

I played around with several cases using the expanding powder through die and kept screwing in the die a little bit at a time until I found just the right amount expansion to get the boolits seated without shaving lead. Lee dies use the seating die for crimping all in the same step. You want just enough crimp to remove the "bell" from the mouth of the case so that the round will chamber in your pistol.

After reloading .45 acp's I usually lock my slide rearward and drop each and every round into the chamber of my pistol to ensure that I have no surprises when it really matters. This is my quality control step after reloading. I do this for all my rounds that I reload even my 7.62x39's and .30-06's.

Also after you've loaded a boolit into the case and after seating and crimping, pull the boolit and measure its diameter. The boolit should still measure .451 or .452 whatever sizing die you use. This will ensure that you're not shaving lead during the seating process. Just make a few test rounds without any powder or primer until you get the hang of it.

I know when I started reloading, I had boucoup questions and could find very few answers until I joined Castboolits.com and asked the "pros". I didn't realize that screwing the die in or out a little further would change the amount of belling of the case mouth. I had no idea how the die's position would determine the amount of expansion. Sometimes the instructions that come with the dies are not so clear and interpretation of the instructions could be explained by someone with a greater knowledge than I had. BC

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