;) Another Fuji day with the 91/59s

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Just won this on GB today. PICS. Created another project lol.

Just won this on GB today. PICS. Created another project lol. I was the only bidder and won this Uberti 1858 Remington with conversion cylinder on GB today for $300.00 and $20.00 shipping. $320.00 total. It had been originally auction listed starting at $375.00 but the dealer selling it on consignment dropped the price to $300.00 and I jumped on it immediately. I may have just gotten lucky and others didn't realize it had been price dropped.

Haven't even paid for it yet and naturally it hasn't been shipped to me yet. The nice thing is the dealer (as per NFA law) agreed to ship the revolver and cylinder separately and in separate boxes, so he can ship it to me directly and save me the hassle of driving to my dealer's and paying for a transfer.

I figure that's a real good deal since just blue conversion cylinders by themselves for the Uberti Remy go for about $225.00 or so regularly on GB. So figuring $225.00 cost for a conversion cylinder (and this one is fluted!), that means I got the Uberti (minus BP percussion cylinder) for only $75.00! (Not including the $20.00 Shipping). How could I go wrong?

Whoever originally owned it, had done a bad antiquing job on it with a chemical (naval jelly?) to remove the blue finish on the revolver and conversion cylinder. I can tell from the pics that whatever chemical was used very very slightly etched the metal a tiny bit. But not to worry, I know that I can buff that right out using my buffing wheel (and dremel for the small areas) and some medium and extra fine rouge that I recently bought to do a buff job on my snubby barrel S&W 1917 project I completed recently.

Obviously the condition of its finish is why I was the only bidder and got it for such a good price. Plus the dealer selling it, lowering the price in the last few hours of the auction helped too. To my good fortune others either did not catch the lowered price, or else they didn't like the removed finish and didn't realize what a jewel in the rough it was, woo hoo!

Once I get the Uberti Remy mirror polished to where I can easily see my teeth in it, then I'll reblue it and it will look like new. Maybe more highly polished than new. Not sure why the owner did such a bad job on antiquing it. The dealer who was selling it on consignment said he didn't know what chemical was used nor why the original owner did such a bad antiquing job on it, nor did he know anything about it other than the owner wanted him to sell it on consignment for him. Dealer did say the bore was in good shape. Anyway, it's mine now and I'm very happy with what I paid for it.

Naturally it looks bad right now, but that's all just easily buffed out very slight chemical etching and a little surface rust, but not too bad. The good thing is it's a steel frame Uberti and you won't recognize it when I get through with it. I had a Pietta Remy in stainless with a stainless conversion cylinder and the same length barrel, but I sold it because I wasn't nuts about the adjustable target sights it had. To me, it took away from the authentic look of the gun, so I sold it to a shooting buddy of mine who loves it. I just prefer the non adjustable sights on the 1858 Remy, unless it's the 18 inch barrel 1866 Remy revolving carbine. Then I want the adjustable sights. I really like the flutes on this .45 Colt (black powder only cartridge) conversion cylinder. Haven't seen another conversion cylinder with flutes like this for the Remy. Anyone know who makes this conversion cylinder?

Now I just need to pick up an Uberti percussion cylinder for it too, so I can shoot either percussion or BP filled cartridges in the conversion cylinder.
Best of both worlds.

Anyway, here's the "before" pics of what it looks like right now from the auction pics. I'll post the "after" pics later on when I get it buffed out and re-blued.

I think it was a GREAT deal. Whatcha think guys?

.

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Yet another Mosin Nagant Thread -

there are some sites that can check the serial number on your rifle, i never really looked into that, but its worth a try.i wouldnt know any other way to check, id say wait to see if someone else knows useful sources, id actually like to know now.
i know most mosins have been in a war at some time, my own mosin was beautiful out of the box. but after disassembly i noted rust damage under the top hangaurd, and i had to treat before it got any worse. so make sure you strip her down to make sure there is no issues.

Mosin disassembly
-remove bolt by holding trigger and pulling bolt back, this will pull it out of the channel. set this aside.

-press the 2 pins on the right side along the barrel,(one at a time) this will allow you to move the rings forward and set them up front to take hand guard out(the area my rifle had water/rust damage)

-now remove the wood guard, place aside

-unscrew bottom barrel screw, remove set aside

-unscrew the screw in the area behind the bolt(top rear of rifle)

-now pull top receiver and barrel/trigger away, and pull the fixed magazine out, now watch the triger, there is a small pin that can drop out , this is replaceable , but just something to note.

now its disassembled, check parts for the cosmo thats so common on mosins, and this allows you to properly access to other parts

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If zombies, i have gone for big guns, will return soon !

love my Mosin black lightnign

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Another 9mm 115 gr FMJ with Unique Question

I don't have a reason not to go with your suggestion, unclenick. It sounds reasonable to me. Is this from your experience, or do I need another manual?

Or maybe my thread searching skills are severely lacking.

I'm not looking for any particular power factor, either. Just a nice, decent, accurate load for a Glock G19 (for target practice), using the components I have available. And I'm trying to get better at figuring out loads without always needing to jump to my lifelines.

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Another stupid question

I posted about the set up that we had bought and know trying to put a order together for some dies and the charge master but was wondering if I would be able to use the lock ring and that accurately sets the die back next reloading session or not I was told to get the hornady locking dies and agree but there not in stock and would like to get only the things in stock on this order.

And I know I need to measure the rounds each time I change the dies but if the locking dies do any better or eliminate any steps.

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Another Marlin shorty

Nice score! That 270g JFN at 2300 fps is gonna be a hammer.

Dan

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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not another ruger american thead...

not another ruger american thead... ... oh yes it is.... that's exactly what it is.
today at my LGS I noticed a Ruger american that stood out from all the rest. it has a blue camo dipped stock, very similar to Navy NWU pattern. I can't find any info on this particular option. it isn't listed on Ruger's website, it also doesn't pop up on lipseys or talo so I was just wondering who is doing these?

I found one on guns america but no information other that make, model and caliber. also, both rifles are 308, is this option available in 243?

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Another new addition..

As some may have read in an earlier post I ran an ad on a Facebook trader page looking for old bp revolvers.

I have been out of the hobby for years, but a friend asked me to repair his 1860 army so he could give it to his son. (Broken hand spring)

In fitting the new part, I realized how much I missed these old guns.

So I dug out my old Remington, and finally broke down and bought a colt clone, I have always liked the look of the 1860, but never bought one..

After running the ad, I have been getting several replies from people wanting to sell them.

Ranging from trading some .22 ammo for one,
to a guy asking $375 for a severely abused brass frame .44 pietta 1851..(no I didn't buy it)

My latest was told to me to be a uberti 1851 in .36,
Upon looking at it I realized it was not a uberti, but something else.

A EIG copy of a Schneider & Glassick, date coded from 1965 with the GLB logo also..
While it looks like a 1851 navy, there are some differences..

I had read an article years ago about them.
http://rprca.tripod.com/schneider.htm

Strange thing about mine is it has a dovetailed front sight.
And a square notched sight in the hammer, and no notch in the hammer face behind the percussion cap like most Italian repos .

And the frame seems to be made from a different kind of "brass" than the trigger guard.
Just thought I would show off my new toy..

Oh, price?
I repaired a computer a while back, the owner paid me with a H&R pump shotgun ($168 retail at Walmart). I had no use for the extra shotgun so it found a new home. .

Later gents,

45 Bravo

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Another old workhorse comes home.

Another old workhorse comes home. Trolling the Indy 1500 this afternoon, I managed to not find a SINGLE thing I went there for. Line to get in....insane......prices inside......worse. But on the second to the last row on my way out I spotted a VERY cluttered table with older guns just piled atop one another.

Sticking out of the bottom of the pile was a very serviceable Western Field 28" 16ga takedown pump. Worn bluing, worn stock finish. But no bad dings, scrapes or gouges....no pitting or rust whatsoever. Action/feeding was silky smooth with a flawless bore. Tag said $125.98 I asked what it'd go out the door for in greenbacks. Ten minuets later I walked off with it, less the $100 I came in with.

Information on these is sparse to say the least. But I've always been interested in these old guns. And since the safe was void of 16 gauges, and I've got piles of 16ga shells...it all made sence

It's a double hump, mid 3000s S/N. from what I can find that put it about 1920 + or-, but I'm not sure. Anyone got anything helpful on these? I know they aren't really worth any money, but the history, character and design is what I'm into.

I've kinda taken to the habit of bringing home these cheap old homeless guns lately

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Another case of something new for a n00b

So there I am casting away today, and kerplonk, one side of my mold falls off.
Fortunately I found the pin on the floor, and tapped it back in.
This doesn't seem like something that should happen to a relatively new Lee mold, or is it?

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

I've got a lot of Lee molds, some over 25 years old, and I've only had one drop a pin. It is a newer one, go figure. Anyway, put the pin back and peen the opening, at least that's the advice I was given. What I did was put the pin back and put the hole to the spigot of my bottom pour pot and applied a quick dab of molten alloy. I went back to casting and it has held for probably 20k more boolits over the past three years.

"Silence in the face of tyranny implies consent, and I do not consent." Mike Vanderbough, April 20, 2013

You said Lee...enough info right there. They can produce a good boolit, but it's the QC work a person has to do to them that gets so irritating to me.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Another anomaly, shiny butts, shiny noses, but...

New mold for .44. TL 430-240
I have cast this before using a friend's mold. I got my own recently and put it to work today. Standard 50% WW 50% lead.
I tried low temps, and high temps. Cooling between pours, not cooling between pours.
Cleaned with brake cleaner. Polished with q-tips and toothpaste. Cleaned again. Poured fast, poured slow.
No matter what I tried today, I came out with shiny noses and bases, but the lube grooves were frosty.
I know it won't hurt, but....

Sorry. Shoulda took a pic.

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

Careful with that stuff. Apparently it is highly toxic when heated.

Not too late to take a pick is it? Would be helpful.

Regards
303Guy

?It is hard enough to remember my opinions, without also remembering my reasons for them!? Nietzsche

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

TOOOOOO HOT. Common with TL grooves.
But it is confusing because the noses look like too cold.
I am at a loss, how can half a boolit look cold and half look too hot?

TOOOOOO HOT. Common with TL grooves.
But it is confusing because the noses look like too cold.
I am at a loss, how can half a boolit look cold and half look too hot?Welcome to my world.
I usually cast right @700?. I tried taking it up to 750+ with the same results. Then kept going while letting the pot cool to 675?.
The sweet spot never showed up, but the wrinkles set in when it was below 700?
The only thing I did different was to use some ingots that a friend made. But with the bases and noses the way they are, I doubt it's the alloy.

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

Once again......WWs have little tin. It is the tin that reduces surface viscosity and allows better fill out. Adding the 50% lead only added to the problem by further reducing the minimal tin content. The tin will also combine with the antimony and make go better into solution with in the lead. What you see is typical antimony not in solution with the lead solidifying in the smal non filled out TL grooves.

Add 2 % tin to your COWWs before you add the lead. Cast at 725 +/-.

Larry Gibson

1) clean the mold -use brake clean (outside) then baking soda with a toothbrush. Rinse with hot water - air dry.
2) dump the alloy from the pot and start over with clean ww alloy with a 1/2 pound of 50/50 solder (for the tin)
3) do not smoke the mold
4) heat your alloy up to 750 degrees F.
5) get an electric hot plate and put an old circular saw blade on it. Preheat the mold on the hot plate.
6) Leave a large sprue when you cast.

If you pour from a ladle make sure the hole gives at least a 1/8" stream - A bottom pour pot needs the same stream

If the bullets stick in the mold, let it cool then smoke it with a wood splinter - do not use a candle, do not use a match (wax in the shaft of a paper or wood match)
a mold smokes better when cool.
Other issue, if you can see more than a hint of soot on the mold, you are overdoing the smoke.

When lubricating the mold as per lee's instructions, get the mold up to temperature, cast a few, then lube the sprue plate hinges very lightyy with a Q tip soaked in Kroil or a high temperature oil. Too much lube can give wrinkled bullets.
Zinc in the alloy can give unpredictable results.
as can poorly fluxed alloy.
Try a different mold with the alloy, see how that works out.

Go now and pour yourself a hot one...

Once again......WWs have little tin. It is the tin that reduces surface viscosity and allows better fill out. Adding the 50% lead only added to the problem by further reducing the minimal tin content. The tin will also combine with the antimony and make go better into solution with in the lead. What you see is typical antimony not in solution with the lead solidifying in the smal non filled out TL grooves.

Add 2 % tin to your COWWs before you add the lead. Cast at 725 +/-.

Larry Gibson

That may well be the solution. Never thought of that.
Thank you Larry.

Go now and pour yourself a hot one...

Plus one what Larry said. I believe I would also flux the daylights out of that melt. Looks a little dirty to me. Clean the mold again with toothbrush and dishsoap, get it pre heated good and do add that tin. Mike

I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force

Once again......WWs have little tin. It is the tin that reduces surface viscosity and allows better fill out. Adding the 50% lead only added to the problem by further reducing the minimal tin content. The tin will also combine with the antimony and make go better into solution with in the lead. What you see is typical antimony not in solution with the lead solidifying in the smal non filled out TL grooves.

Add 2 % tin to your COWWs before you add the lead. Cast at 725 +/-.

Larry Gibson

Guess I better get me some tin then.
So if my math is correct, would that be like .4lb to a 20lb pot?

Wait that can't be right.

it should be about 6oz for a 20lb pot, right?

Last edited by BBQJOE; Today at 08:03 AM.

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

4oz in a 20lb pot is 2%.... you were right the first time

Doc

Convert the pounds to ounces and multiply by .02 = ounces of tin. 20lb x 16oz. = 320oz. x .02 = 6.4oz.

2% of 20 lbs. is 4oz., but adding 2% tin to 20 lbs. of lead will be 6.4oz.

Boolit Master Join DateMar 2005LocationBritish ColumbiaPosts478

2% of 20 lbs. is .4 lbs. , not ounces. .4 X 16 is 6.4 ounces.

I have to go with Larry. The alloy might be lacking tin

I had forgotten to write that I did put a few feet of 50/50 lead tin solder in it. But I'm guessing it wasn't near enough.

If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
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Yet another fine Accurate mold

It is 360 125T the only reason this mold is not brass is because I did not pay for it. Technically it belongs to my boss, He buys the stuff and I load the stuff and get to keep 50% of what I load, and he buys the lead as well.

It seems to me that once the brass mold is up to temp, it holds the temp a little more constantly. The down side is the weight. But they make awesome bullets and are easy to work with, so for me I prefer brass.

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