New mold for .44. TL 430-240
I have cast this before using a friend's mold. I got my own recently and put it to work today. Standard 50% WW 50% lead.
I tried low temps, and high temps. Cooling between pours, not cooling between pours.
Cleaned with brake cleaner. Polished with q-tips and toothpaste. Cleaned again. Poured fast, poured slow.
No matter what I tried today, I came out with shiny noses and bases, but the lube grooves were frosty.
I know it won't hurt, but....
Sorry. Shoulda took a pic.
If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.
Careful with that stuff. Apparently it is highly toxic when heated.Not too late to take a pick is it? Would be helpful.
Regards
303Guy
?It is hard enough to remember my opinions, without also remembering my reasons for them!?
Nietzsche
If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.
TOOOOOO HOT. Common with TL grooves.
But it is confusing because the noses look like too cold.
I am at a loss, how can half a boolit look cold and half look too hot?
TOOOOOO HOT. Common with TL grooves.
But it is confusing because the noses look like too cold.
I am at a loss, how can half a boolit look cold and half look too hot?Welcome to my world.
I usually cast right @700?. I tried taking it up to 750+ with the same results. Then kept going while letting the pot cool to 675?.
The sweet spot never showed up, but the wrinkles set in when it was below 700?
The only thing I did different was to use some ingots that a friend made. But with the bases and noses the way they are, I doubt it's the alloy.
If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.
Once again......WWs have little tin. It is the tin that reduces surface viscosity and allows better fill out. Adding the 50% lead only added to the problem by further reducing the minimal tin content. The tin will also combine with the antimony and make go better into solution with in the lead. What you see is typical antimony not in solution with the lead solidifying in the smal non filled out TL grooves.Add 2 % tin to your COWWs before you add the lead. Cast at 725 +/-.
Larry Gibson
1) clean the mold -use brake clean (outside) then baking soda with a toothbrush. Rinse with hot water - air dry.
2) dump the alloy from the pot and start over with clean ww alloy with a 1/2 pound of 50/50 solder (for the tin)
3) do not smoke the mold
4) heat your alloy up to 750 degrees F.
5) get an electric hot plate and put an old circular saw blade on it. Preheat the mold on the hot plate.
6) Leave a large sprue when you cast.If you pour from a ladle make sure the hole gives at least a 1/8" stream - A bottom pour pot needs the same stream
If the bullets stick in the mold, let it cool then smoke it with a wood splinter - do not use a candle, do not use a match (wax in the shaft of a paper or wood match)
a mold smokes better when cool.
Other issue, if you can see more than a hint of soot on the mold, you are overdoing the smoke.When lubricating the mold as per lee's instructions, get the mold up to temperature, cast a few, then lube the sprue plate hinges very lightyy with a Q tip soaked in Kroil or a high temperature oil. Too much lube can give wrinkled bullets.
Zinc in the alloy can give unpredictable results.
as can poorly fluxed alloy.
Try a different mold with the alloy, see how that works out.
Go now and pour yourself a hot one...
Once again......WWs have little tin. It is the tin that reduces surface viscosity and allows better fill out. Adding the 50% lead only added to the problem by further reducing the minimal tin content. The tin will also combine with the antimony and make go better into solution with in the lead. What you see is typical antimony not in solution with the lead solidifying in the smal non filled out TL grooves.
Add 2 % tin to your COWWs before you add the lead. Cast at 725 +/-.Larry Gibson
That may well be the solution. Never thought of that.
Thank you Larry.
Go now and pour yourself a hot one...
Plus one what Larry said. I believe I would also flux the daylights out of that melt. Looks a little dirty to me. Clean the mold again with toothbrush and dishsoap, get it pre heated good and do add that tin. Mike
I saw Elvis at 1000 feet. John Force
Once again......WWs have little tin. It is the tin that reduces surface viscosity and allows better fill out. Adding the 50% lead only added to the problem by further reducing the minimal tin content. The tin will also combine with the antimony and make go better into solution with in the lead. What you see is typical antimony not in solution with the lead solidifying in the smal non filled out TL grooves.Add 2 % tin to your COWWs before you add the lead. Cast at 725 +/-.
Larry Gibson
Guess I better get me some tin then.
So if my math is correct, would that be like .4lb to a 20lb pot?Wait that can't be right.
it should be about 6oz for a 20lb pot, right?
Last edited by BBQJOE; Today at 08:03 AM.
If something is worth shooting once, it's worth shooting a bunch of times.
4oz in a 20lb pot is 2%.... you were right the first timeDoc
Convert the pounds to ounces and multiply by .02 = ounces of tin. 20lb x 16oz. = 320oz. x .02 = 6.4oz.
2% of 20 lbs. is 4oz., but adding 2% tin to 20 lbs. of lead will be 6.4oz.
Boolit Master Join DateMar 2005LocationBritish ColumbiaPosts4782% of 20 lbs. is .4 lbs. , not ounces. .4 X 16 is 6.4 ounces.
I have to go with Larry. The alloy might be lacking tin
I had forgotten to write that I did put a few feet of 50/50 lead tin solder in it. But I'm guessing it wasn't near enough.
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