Couple of M1 questions

When cleaning the barrel of an M1 what is the best way to avoid damaging the barrel?
Pull through from muzzle to breech like a bore snake?

Using a 311299 over 34 grains of 4895 a 400 yard setting is pretty well on at 100 yards. Any suggestion as to what setting to use with the same load at 200 yards?

Thanks

You'll go far providin' you ain't burnt alive or scalped."

Will Geer as Bear Claw in "Jeramiah Johnson"

Get a bore guide that fits over the muzzle, and clean from the muzzle. I've been using them since 1982, and never had a problem with wear at the muzzle or damage to a crown.
http://www.fulton-armory.com/cleaningrodmuzzleguidedeweym1.aspx

Also get a GI Garand tool, and use the brush on the chamber regularly.

Don't take it out of the stock unless you absolutely have to, as the wood wears easily, and a stock loose on your rifle is guaranteed to shoot badly.

I've never worked with the settings on Garands, just kept track of clicks. I've never run cast in them either, but that may change soon.

A very quick and FREE bore guide can be made by simply cutting-off the front of any 6.5mm rifle case at about an inch or two in length.

The 6.5 neck slips nicely into the .30-caliber muzzle, and the other end slips equally-nicely over the cleaning rod....BEFORE attaching the bore brush or slotted tip.

Pull-throughs can abrade and wear a muzzle rather badly, and do it in short order as well.

What I do with my M1 is lock the bolt open and put the cleaning rod down the muzzel sans bore brush. Attach the brush to the cleaning rod in the receiver well and pull back through the barrel. This is a little slow but you dont need a guide and you clean from the breach like you are supposed to. Also turn the rifle bolt side down to keep solvent / gunk from filling the gas cylinder via the little hole in the underside of the barrel.

Regards

BruceB is absolutely correct. It is impossible to pull a bore snake through a bore, in either direction, without crown wear, and uneven wear at that.

A rod with a bore guide, and removing the tool before feeding it back, can clean without touching the crown beyond the rifling.

HF

One of the cone type guides work well also as long as it fits the rod also. Cleaning upside down will keep solvent from running into the stock bedding softing wood or bedding agents in the critical areas. A little Hoppes in the gas tube will help to keep carbon down. Just a drop or two is all thats needed. Champions choice La Verge Tennesse had a insert that sat in the chamber with the bolt holding it in place for cleaning. They also sell a rod guide for the garand

A very quick and FREE bore guide can be made by simply cutting-off the front of any 6.5mm rifle case at about an inch or two in length.

The 6.5 neck slips nicely into the .30-caliber muzzle, and the other end slips equally-nicely over the cleaning rod....BEFORE attaching the bore brush or slotted tip.

Pull-throughs can abrade and wear a muzzle rather badly, and do it in short order as well.

+100. "Outside" muzzle guides are not 100% effective, you need something that slips inside the bore and keeps the rod from contacting the crown even if it is misaligned with the bore. John Dewey makes very good one with an O-ring to keep the guide itself from contacting the crown, but Bruce's ad hoc version works almost as well.

For the M1A match rifles, or M14NM, I always used a 32-40 case inside the flash supressor (this was long before Winchester re-introduced the brass). It fits so snugly that I used to swear that the service grade flash supressors were modified to the match configuration with a 32-40 chamber reamer. The 32-40 case was much more effective at preventing crown damage than the typical 12 ga shotgun shell that fit over the outside of the supressor, or the delrin clones of that arrangement that are around these days.

Resp'y,
Bob S

USN Distinguished Marksman No. O-067

It's REAL ... it's wood and steel!

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