Need Help Deciding on a Melter

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts60

Hey guys,

Just curious... as we all know the times we are in now. I'm looking at the lee production IV pots. There is a pro version, and a "non-pro" version I guess I could call it. The thing is, looks like the "non-pro" is just a little smaller?

Is there any negatives to the non-pro compared to the pro version? I can find the non-pros in stock, and they are cheaper (on limited funds that is a bonus). Anything you guys could worry me about and not go ahead and purchase?

Thanks,

AC

Here is the best info on the pots. I believe you may be mixing names with the 10lb and 20lb pots. If you will cast much at a sitting or using 6 bangers, the 20lb will make you a happy camper. http://leeprecision.com/bullet-casting/electric-melters-or-furnaces/

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the 20 will make you happier anyway.
the 4-20 is a few dollars more but is a better pot all around.
I have both and only use my 10 lb pot for single cavity molds like round balls and core molds and such.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts60

Yeah I guess that's what I was doing. Is size the only concern here? Regardless say for the 10lb pot (the non-pro) I put in 8 lbs. That's still going to cast me over 200 bullets (for my 200 gr mold). As I'll be using a DC mold, I think I'll need a break after 100 "successful" pours. Enough of a break to cool it down and melt up some more.

So if size is the only major difference and quality is the same between to pro (20 lb) and the non-pro (10 lb) and being that I'll be casting with DC molds... I think the 10lb would work for me?

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts60

the 20 will make you happier anyway.
the 4-20 is a few dollars more but is a better pot all around.
I have both and only use my 10 lb pot for single cavity molds like round balls and core molds and such.Problem is, the 20lb can't be found right now. It's really not a price thing as I agree the difference is negligible... But if I won't be casting more then 200 boolits at a time, how will I be any happier (not being a jerk, just asking lol).

Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure the 10pd pot doesn't have a place to rest your mold while casting. Thus, you have to hold a steady hand under the spout.

I personally have the Pro 20pd Pot, (110v) and it works really well. A full pot is more than enough for a casting session, and the mold rest underneath is handy quick, precision fills.

For about 10 bucks more, i'd advise it. They are all over Ebay if you don't mind paying about a $5-10 markup.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313&_nkw=lee+pro+20+pound&_sacat=0&_from=R40

I like ladle pouring. Lymans starter kit with 10lb pot is a verygood deal. I make better boolits (less rejects) using a ladle.
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000152800375

Last edited by detox; Yesterday at 11:37 AM.

.....But if I won't be casting more then 200 boolits at a time, how will I be any happier .......The 10# is a true "drip O matic". The spout can separate from the liner and the only real fix is a new liner.
While the 20# does drip, it's not as bad, and it doesn't break.

And, Who says you won't do more than 200 in the future, or you May get a 6 hole mold, 10# and 6 big .45 cavities just don't make life fun.

"The trouble with Socialism is, sooner or later you run out of other people's money." - Margaret Thatcher

IMO draining a bottom pour pot lower than about 1/4 full is a great way to end up with trash in the spout plus the less melted alloy in the pot the slower the flow gets and it takes longer to get back up to casting temperature when more alloy is added.

I tried the 10 and 20 pound Lees years ago and gave up on them. I purchased a RCBS Pro Melt over 30 years ago and have been extremely well pleased with it. It has never leaked ,nerver clogged or did anything but work great.

Routinely I start with a full pot ,cast add spruces cuts back to the pot as I cast and when pot is about 1/2 full add another 8 pounds or so of alloy,in about 10 mintes it is ready or fluxing and then back to casting. The 10 minutes is enough time to give the cast boolits a quick look see and removed any with flaws. Careful they are still very warm so use gloves or a tool such as neddle nose pliers.

Last edited by Case Stuffer; Yesterday at 01:31 PM.

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If you want to get started casting , get whatever pot you can now and in the future you can always upgrade. I have two pots and cast from one while the other is melting and coming up to a good casting temperature. And with two pots you can keep them filled with different alloys and not have to drain every time you need to change.

Boolit Buddy Join DateFeb 2013Posts60

GW that's exactly what I was thinking... But how common is the drip literal with these pots? I can handle a little drop no problem. But if it is that much better with the 20lb, I'll just wait it out I guess.

Ah, what a terrible time to join the addiction. Like any addiction (I'm guessing) it's even worse without my casting fix! lol

Boolit Man Join DateJun 2011LocationNorthwest MontanaPosts142

If you want to get started casting , get whatever pot you can now and in the future you can always upgrade. I have two pots and cast from one while the other is melting and coming up to a good casting temperature. And with two pots you can keep them filled with different alloys and not have to drain every time you need to change.This is what I do as well.. Having 2 Lee pro 4-20's side by side works extremely well for me. You always have alloy hot and ready to go. Even the Lee pro 20 will have to be adjusted a little to get the rate of flow you need, and very seldom do I get a drip from either pot.

Shad

I believe in gold, silver, & lead, and the rights of free honest men... You can keep the "CHANGE"!

I have the 10 lb pot have used since late 90's , still use it for 2 cavity molds , but the 20 lb is a better pot , though I like the lever on the 10 lb better , just could be from years of use , had the 20 lb for a while but had not used it , with the 4 cavity NOE and Mihec molds it was time to move to more metal at one time so I opened the box and put it to use , as for the mold guide I still do it all free hand , buy the 20 lb if you can find it , am thinking I need to get a bigger pot.

the pro 4 20 lb pot is nice i like to rest my mold on the adjustable shelf and slide it in while making the pour , gets back up to the melting point fast when adding lead and holds larger ingots

there is quite a bit of difference between the 10 and 20 lb pot.
I can make long runs with the 20 lb pot with out it dripping, if it does drip a quick twist of the pin stops it.
the 10 lb pot does pretty good unless you knock the pin off to the side or it twists slightly, it also doesn't drop the lead straight out it shoots it forward.
I really don't prefer either one, and prefer my 40 lb magma pot.
but it is a pain to empty it out [just to add soft lead] to make 100 round balls, or to add my other alloy to make 5 pounds of 223 boolits.

once you get into a rythm and things are working perfectly you will find out how quickly a 2 cavity 45 mold will empty a 20 lb pot.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

I have ran the 10 lb pot down several times in a session when the rythym was right , just kept adding to the pot , my 10 lb has always been a dripper . Keep giving it a quick turn back and forth and it is good for awhile , might look into a different pot , like the idea of the new lyman mag 20 , but for the price of any of the mentioned , the lee 20 lb is going to get my recommendation .

A 10" dutch oven, turkey fryer burner, and a #2 Rowel ladle is tough to beat. 'Course I still like my Pro 420s for indoor use under the vent hood in my gun room. Take care of them and they don't drip. The 10-pounders are hopeless. The Pro-melt and Waage pots are really nice, too, if you're made of money.

Gear

You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana

As I'll be using a DC mold, I think I'll need a break after 100 "successful" pours. Enough of a break to cool it down and melt up some more.

So if size is the only major difference and quality is the same between to pro (20 lb) and the non-pro (10 lb) and being that I'll be casting with DC molds... I think the 10lb would work for me?

That's about 30-35 minutes at a stretch. I can't imagine going that long without a mold guide. With a mold guide as on the 20 pound pot it's not hard to go 1-1/2 to 2 hours with a light dual cavity mold. My pot has a guide and I wouldn't buy one wihout it.

David

There is only one way of compromising the on Second Amendment. That is when Liberals call for Conservatives to compromise. What they really mean "give up just a little more of your rights just this once"- every time they call for compromise. Molon Labe!

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