Care for mold/COL

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts2

Hi I was just wondering how should I store my mold after use, should I just leave the last casted bullet in the mold? Also what is the col/oal for a lee 45acp tc because I seated it at 1.2 and it seems to jam ever once and a while with me having to force the rack to go back as well as push the lead round out from the barrel.

Storing a mold with the cavities filled does not help. I keep mine in either a plastic Lyman mold box or a "Really Smart Box" I get from Staples.

Can you describe your jam? Is it the round does not fully chamber? Or does it not even enter the chamber?

don't leave boolits in the mold.

some oil them, some don't, depending on what the mold is made from and where they live.
I just put my molds in a drawer and leave them there.
if I am not going to use them for 5-6 years I put some penetrating oil on them. [steel]

you most likely have to seat them a little deeper.
never mind what the book say's about oal they didn't use a lee boolit to develop their loads.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

OK, what does "having to force the rack to go back as well as push the lead round out
from the barrel" mean.

No part of the gun called 'the rack', can't figure out 'push the lead round out'.

Rack= slide? ??

back = forward or into battery or rearward to eject the round???

Is the extractor not grabbing the round and pulling it out?

If you are having failure to close, are you taper crimping with a separate die
in a separate operation? If not, get a TC die and start. No or inadequate
TC is the most common reason for jamming in .45 ACP.

Maybe not enough power to move the slide back all the way and eject
the empty case?

Please explain.

Bill

Last edited by MtGun44; Yesterday at 06:05 PM.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.

Boolit Mold Join DateMay 2013Posts2

Well every now and again I would have to rack it back hard in order to get the round out and the ejector works and having 50/50 on either getting the round out as a whole or just having the brass casing come out with the projectile stuck a tad bit in the barrel where I can just take my guide rod and push it out.

I do have a factory crimp die that I use after I seat the bullet and I think I solved it by seating it down a few. So instead of 1.2 its at 1.6/1.7 forgot which one and I test fitted all my rounds in my barrel just to seat if it goes in cleanly without having it getting snagged.

I'd say you did most likely solve your problem.

I ended up with a 1.165" COL when I was recently setting up my Pro2000 for .45 Auto and this bullet. It was necessary to get it to function in a couple of my guns. Without seating that deep the bullet was engaging the rifling in a couple of my guns with short throats before going into battery. The Lyman CB Handbook #4 gave a 1.170" OAL for this bullet in it's data IIRC.

I also had a very minor issue with the head spacing of a few rounds here and there that seating and crimping in separate stations cleaned up.

I store my molds in a sealed ammo box and wrap them in VPI paper. Also put a moisture absorbing pack inside the ammo box. Sometimes if I find enough small packets,I will put one in each box the mold is in.

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