Triple Check Charge

Just want to triple check a charge I'm using:

Shooting a "Turked" Gew 88 Commission rifle with

175 gr. cast round nose/gas checked over 18 grs. of Alliant 2400.

My Lyman cast bullet manual doesn't list 2400 but I checked in a bunch of places and it seems a safe load. I shot Remington 170 gr. commercial as well as a bunch of 175 cast over 16 gr. of 2400 I made; no problems. Thought I'd take it up a bit and see what the target looks like.

I'm still a bit of a novice at this, so I figured, "what could it hurt to triple check the load with the folks who know?"

thanks in advance.

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Value check on Oregon Trail Laser Cast 200gr SWC's?

Anyone know the going rate of a box of 500 box of 45cal. 200gr. SWC's from Laser-Cast?

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Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Price Check - Springfield Armory Ultra Compact 1911 9MM

I have a friend at work that is wanting to sell the above camera Well, it's not so much a complete camera as it is a flash unit.

Seriously, though, if it's in good shape and functional $500 would be a steal. They go for over double that new. Probably about double that in decent condition used. Still, the small 1911s can be temperamental. Springfield Armory is good at helping things get sorted, but if it works it's definitely worth that. If it doesn't work I'd wonder why but expect SA to help me get it right.

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Beretta U22 NEOS (check it out)

As we all did when we lost out adolescent gawkiness.

Aarond

.

__________________
Caje: The coward dies a thousand times, the brave only once.
Kirby: That's about all it takes, ain't it?
Combat: "A Silent Cry"
Aarond is good,,, Aarond is wise,,, Always trust Aarond! (most of the time)

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Anyone using the lee 405 grain Non Gas check boolit?

I have used a 420 plain base at 1650. It leaded a tiny amount but easily gave 20 accurate rounds with no problem. Good enough for hunting.

I also had good fit, a smooth bore, and no tight spots in bore.

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New York ammo background check question

Let's try to keep things accurate, OK? And on topic as well, folks.

They can't use the federal NICS system, as that's dedicated to checks for the purpose of buying firearms. Most likely, they'll have to establish some sort of state-level system, which is going to be inundated with calls and therefore an adventure to manage.

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Glock Price check assessments please

What do you think about:

Gen 2 Glock 17 seller is asking $450. Claims to have less than 1 mag fired through it. Comes with 2 mags and box, stock configuration.

Gen 3 Glock 22 different seller is asking $450. Says it's "bone stock", 2 mags, "low round count".

Neither have pictures, supposedly undamaged. I'd have to drive 45 min for either for a FTF transaction. Would you bite if you were interested in Glocks and didn't have one yet?

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Gas Check Boolit Loaded W/O the GC ?? Any Problems ???

Boolit Mold Join DateDec 2012Locationnorthern californiaPosts17

New to casting and was just wondering what would happen if a GC boolit was loaded up with out the gas check ?? I have a half dozen moulds on order thru the GB program .. With zero experience casting boolits I decided to jump into the mould collecting addiction and am now wondering if that was a prudent idea .. The more I learn from you folks the more I realize how little I know about not just casting but reloading in general .. I joined the forum a few months ago and have spent most of my free time browsing the threads and suckin up knowledge .. Thanks to the people that contribute to this forum .. You folks have taken shooting from a hobbie to a science !! My first 2 moulds arrived from NOE and I must say there were exactly as many of you folks had described them " A work of art " I quickly added my handle to 6 more GB's mostly with GC" mould requested because I plan to push the boolits hard but then I scanned the list and found more people with PB requests than GC .. I guess Dirty Harry was right " A mans got to know his limitations" Thanks Coltman

Welcome coltman

I asked the exact same question a few weeks ago. I tried pretty hard to get some 30 cal Lee GC boolits to work without the GC. Others with more experience and skill might have been able to make it work, but i ran into inaccuracy at low velocity then light leading at higher vel. When i adjusted the boolit diameter the leading reduced but accuracy got no better.

Then i tried a range of velocities with good fitting boolits and GC installed. With all other factors held constant (diameter, powder charge, lube, alloy) the GC helped every load improve accuracy. I cant explain it, maybe someone else can. I suspect that some moulds designed for GC will work better sans GC than others. Maybe wrong there. I was shooting Lee boolits exclusively and most of the testing was with 30-30 and 7.62x39.

The only load i was remotely happy with was about 8 gr unique behind a 150 gr in my marlin 30-30, leaving the GC off. Very light. But even that load shot better with GC.

If I were to take a stab at guessing how many boolits designed for GC are fired with total satisfaction without the check installed I would put it at about half.
I would add that it is by casters/loaders that are well up in the learning curve not beginners.
Think about how accurate 22 LF RF are and how similer the base of a gas check type boolit is without the check to a heeled boolit design.
I also base my 50% guess on my own shooting of GC type boolits w/o the check.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I will be offering the GC seater plate for the lyman 45.
Also I have replacement springs for the Lyman 45 lubesizer, If your's is weak or missing, let me know

Cant be done!

Where there is a will, there is a won't

Pay particular attention to post #7 by Bret4207 . He's put a lot of thought and effort into it.

I'm particularly interested in this thread as I don't want to use gas checks. The point that the gas check protects the boolit base, keeping it square is probably the most important aspect. Something not mentioned by Bret is trailing edge feathering or distortion. A plain base boolit will suffer trailing edge failure at a certain point, however, a GC design boolit is going to suffer other deformations as well so one can expect a plain base to perform higher than GC boolit without the gas check.

As for gas sealing, I would say yes but I've had gas cutting with a gas check. I've also had a plain base hard cast boolit suffering gas erosion down the grooves, leaving the land impressions sort of higher than the groove impression! But no skidding. A softer boolit did not do that and shot better. That was a 44 mag revolver. I've also experienced 357 mag plain base shooting very well in a rifle. The only experience I've had with GC boolits with and without the gas check were 224's in a 223 and a hornet. In the 223 I tried without the gas check working up and found the accuracy to drop off at around the sonic level while with gas check accuracy levels were considerably higher. I use the term 'accuracy' loosely here. These boolits never gave stellar accuracy for me but then again the castings were not good. They were from a RCBS 22-55 FN mold. In the hornet if I call, I shot them with gas check and accuracy was also iffy but I did get them on paper but I don't remember whether that was at 100 or 200 meters. If I could cast decently with that mold I would try them again in the hornet without the gas checks. Now days I like to use a filler which I believe acts as a gas check and the hornet is an ideal case for such loads.

I've done a fair amount of 'test tube' firing in which I can examine the boolit bases and that's quite revealing. I can't do anything for check-less boolits right now as I don't have any. I could mimic a GC design for the purposes of testing but probably not today. For starters, my 'test tube' is now outside and the neighbours would hear the shots - not as a muzzle blast but as a clang and thump as the metal parts jump - so I'd be loath to test full power loads just yet.

Just another point - all my testing is with smooth sided boolits which can take higher pressure and velocity because they don't have narrowed lube grooves and have full length rifling engagement.

Regards
303Guy

?It is hard enough to remember my opinions, without also remembering my reasons for them!? Nietzsche

Nice link! I get too stuck searching sub forums sometimes and forget about the classics and stickies. Thanks!

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Pat marlin check maker

Hey Guys,

Has anyone ordered a gc maker from Pat? If so how long did it take to get it delivered. I ordered one on Feb 1st and still have not recieved it, although my check has been cashed. Two emails were sent; one at a month, and the other at 7 weeks. He replied both times that it would'nt be long. I understand that he works by himself and pobably has a lot of oders, just looking for a time frame.

Thanks

As I recall, it was 5-6 weeks for me, but that was several years ago. I've read that it's taken longer for others - depending on number of orders and equipment problems I suppose.
Pat is a standup guy and has been around for a long time - you will get your order, though it may take time...

Ok, Thanks for the info. I'll just have to work on my patience, Thanks!

Boolit Bub Join DateFeb 2012LocationCentral Maine HighlandsPosts33

I ordered a .30 cal checkmaker about 10 days ago,i got over 1k hornadys left so im good for a while.
Im sure it will be worth the wait,though I can hardly wait to make my own .

Ive ordered three, one came in a few weeks, the other two took months.
The wait is really worth it.

I have sworn on the altar of GOD eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.

I ordered one when he first started. It took nearly a year to receive what was touted as ready for delivery in 30 days. After being highly criticized for wanting my merchandise and hearing every excuse in the book, the device finally came. Using the check maker was as slow as getting it. I sold it, bought a .30 and a .35 Freechex III and have never looked back. The Freechex III dies took about 10 days to get.

My experience pretty much mirrors that of Dan Cash. The first one took about 10 days, the second 15 months. Of the 2 Checkmakers, one worked good, the other was problematic. Pat did replace the problem child under his warranty. Both have sat in their boxes and gone unused since. I switched to Freechex from Charlie Darnall. I have ordered and received my 4th Freechex, none of which took over a week to get. I have not ran into any problems with them.
I hope Pat gets his issues worked out soon and deliveries get back on track. A lot of folks like his product and it should not disappear. Continued excuses can make potential customers wary.

I have recently just purchased a freechex 3 in 22 cal and 35 cal. Got them both 3 days after paying for them. Charlie won't take your money until he has product to send you. I have a 35 cal Pat Marlins check maker I am going to sell. I am not to thrilled with separate cutting of the disc, then forming the check. I already like the all in one step function of the freechex 3. And I don't have to put my reloading press under the stress of cutting the discs.

Pat is the only one that I know of that makes the PB gascheck tool. So ....be patient it will come, afterall you do not have a choice as far as PB gaschecks go. They work great, slow , but do what they were designed to do.They have worked great to solve my leading issues with my 9MM. I am in no race when I do my reloading so I just take my time and enjoy. I also have the Freechex dies and they work great for normal gaschecks.

All that being said, Pat will come thru and if you are looking for the PB gascheck dies Pat is the man as far as I am concerned. I will be ordering several more and will be alot more patient this time now that I know he is legitimate. By the way mine did take approx 5-6 weeks .

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
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Gas check ?

I am loading for 30 Herrett and 357 Herrett and am trying to get a cast boolit load worked up. Question is , do you have to have the boolit seating depth such that the check is kept in the neck area of the case. I have plenty of chamber depth to almost have the boolit totally out of the case so it is no problem with keeping it out far enough but some of the lube grooves are exposed in order to keep the check in the neck and not below it. I am using the Lee 30-180-SP in the 30 and Lyman 358315 200 gr in the 357.The 357 at 1st workup seems to shoot well but the boolit is way out there to keep the check in the neck. I do have it as deep as possible trying to keep as much of the lube grooves in the case as possible. Does it hurt to have the lube grooves out ? It is not an issue for me as it is a single shot and not a problem to use them like that just did not know if it was a good practice or not.

I will also be doing the 357 SIG soon and that will be the same issue I am sure.......if I decide to use Gaschecks.

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pat marlins gas check maker

Boolit Bub Join DateOct 2005Locationselah, waPosts23

made some gas checks on a borrowed 30 cal. check maker by pat marlin. works very well once you get the hang of it. i have sent a message to him about prices and delivery time. anyone had any problems with his service. i am pretty sure i want one but want to check out his service etc. before ordering. argie1891

He has been through a move and other things over the last year but is up and running with good production reviews. I have a PB 45 Cal checkmaker from Pat and it took a while to get from him (prior to his move and life changes) but I knew it was going to be a while however it was worth the wait. Now a days he has his new shop, two or three machines working and is producing quality checkmakers at good production rates. I think the best way to find out production rates and estimated times of arrival is to email Pat himself. Here is his website link:
http://www.patmarlins.com/

Email:
mail@patmarlins.com

Pat is a good man, a one man show, and has a promise to do his best to produce a quality product and to deliver as quickly as he and his machines can.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman gas check seater #2745881: Do I need one?

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts10

I'm using a Lyman 45 lubri-sizer for my Lyman 429640 Devastator hollowpoints, with Hornady crimp-on gas checks, for my .44 Rem. Mag. revolvers.

I've put on the gas checks simply by pressing them onto the bases of the bullets as hard as I could by hand, then tapping the base of the gas-checked bullets on the top of the reloading bench, by hand, to ensure that they're fully seated. I've been wondering if this is too crude a method, and perhaps not square? They look good, but I still wonder...

I've researched Lyman's website & found their gas check seater #2745881 ($11.25). Would you advise that I use this to seat my gas checks? If so, how is it done? Is the seating process a separate step from sizing/lubing the bullet? I would assume so, because the sizing/lubing step also crimps the gas check onto the bullet. Would the process work this way: Install the gas check seater into the 45 lubrisizer, seat the gas checks into all my bullets, then remove the seater, then size/lube all the bullets?

Or, would the process work in such a way that I could insert a gas check with each bullet, and perform the gas check seating and bullet sizing/lubing with the same ram strokes?

Sorry about the rudimentary questions, but I don't have the tools in front of me now to examine them & how they work. Thanks much.

jimb.

I bought one and used it a couple of times .I thought it was more of a PITA than what its worth. This is just my opinion others may like it .either of the methods you described will work. I was having problems with GC being to loose after being installed. I switched to gator gas checks sold on this site and my problem went away.

Don't blame me, I voted for Mitt.

I never had to use the one that came with my 4500. I tried it once just out of curiosity. Extra resistance bent my boolit.

Dutch

"The future ain't what it used to be".
-Yogi Berra.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
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I am loading up my first Lyman 525s, can I get a safety check

So am am about to start loading up my first lyman 525s and my first 12 gauge loads

you have all been so helpful and I was hoping for a little more advice

I have chosen 2 loads to try out. One intended to be a low recoil all day shooter, another to be a full power load.

I first chose wads based of VdoMemorie's pic that I love of the 525 in all different slugs

pic originally posted by VdoMemorie

I like the 12S3 and the Versalite because the top of the wad comes up to the middle or the slug "rim" without going over the top. This is important because I want to roll crimp.

the low recoil load I chose was based off a bird shot load from the alliant site.

I chose this load because it says the pressures are only in the 7000s, 16 gauge card and slug in the wad

the full power load I chose is the real one I have questions on because it is a mix of a few different recipes but I fell it should work and be safe.

Fiocchi unskived hulls
Fiocchi 616 primers
38gn of blue dot then work it up from there
Federal 12s3 wad with a 16 gauge .125 card
roll crimp

any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated

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Gas check sizing help please

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