lyman 429303

I have this mold, with my alloy cast up at 205 grains, very accurate in my 44 special. was wondering why a pointed boolit? this was given to me about 25 years ago by a friend that was moving to another state. easy to cast, carries a gas check. anyone know about this mold?

TTC

it's for shooting through things.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

Boolit Bub Join DateAug 2010Posts22

Handbook of Cast Bullets, (ca. 1958) has a two page article in it detailing the genesis of the "High Velocity Penetrator" or "HiVeloPen" as they called it. It is implied that its designer, Carl Hudson, wanted something that would live up to the metal-punching promise that the .44 Magnum made but didn't quite (in factory ammo) deliver on. Guys I know who shoot it want it for penetration on thick muscled/furred animals (i.e. bears) out in the boonies. Some history.

Boolit Master Join DateApr 2005LocationIowaPosts329

Handbook of Cast Bullets, (ca. 1958) has a two page article in it detailing the genesis of the "High Velocity Penetrator" or "HiVeloPen" as they called it. It is implied that its designer, Carl Hudson, wanted something that would live up to the metal-punching promise that the .44 Magnum made but didn't quite (in factory ammo) deliver on. Guys I know who shoot it want it for penetration on thick muscled/furred animals (i.e. bears) out in the boonies. Some history.Interesting history read. I have both those molds and they do produce bullets that are fun to play with. For sure it takes the correct top punch and seater stem to keep that nice point.

v e r y i n t e r e s t i n g, thanks

TTC

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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2nd Attempt to cast Lyman .44 cal 250 gn Devastators

Boolit Master Join DateNov 2009LocationIndianapolis, INPosts371

Took advantage of the short window of opportunity between rain and snow storm to try out my new mold. set up a small wire holder to rest the mold HP pin on the hot plate and was pleased with the results. Not sure if I have my sequence down right though. I thought maybe I was deforming the nose by pulling the ping before knocking off the sprue. I switched it up a little, knocked off the sprue and then pulled the pin. I really could not tell the difference in results but I did feel less resistance when turning the pin to release it. Any thoughts?

Last edited by Boyscout; Today at 11:52 AM. Reason: grammar

i'd just figure out the sequence of movements that was most efficient and go with that.

it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

the more i find out about shootin boolits, the more it contradicts everything i ever learned about shooting jaxketed.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman replacement 4500 heater

Has anyone used the heating element from a Lyman 4500 lubrisizer to make a universal heater? Seeing as the universal heaters are not available I was thinking of buying a replacement element and putting it in a piece of aluminum and making it fit a RCBS LAMII. Actually if you had multiple lubersizers you could make up blocks for each and just move the element as needed.

Longone

Dist rifleman, P-100, Highmaster x-course, mid range, long range prone.

"The trouble with Socialism is, sooner or later you run out of other people's money." - Margaret Thatcher

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Fair price for Lyman single cavity 358495

$40?

To me a single cavity pistol mold is worthless. I shoot too much ammo to not have a 4 cavity mold.

well,
just last weekend i bought a used single cavity round ball lyman mold that
it cost me $20, it did not include handles.

On fleabay single cavities are going for $40 and up right now. I've seen them up to $85.... Way too much and more than they cost new..................

I only buy singles if I'm going to have it hollow pointed............

I bought two-cavity 358495 without handles for $25, about a year ago. Today, for a single-cavity with handles, I'd pay no more than $35.

Though I do have a single-cavity rifle mould, I wouldn't buy one for handgun use -- too much time and work involved for a too small pile of boolits.

I bought two-cavity 358495 without handles for $25, about a year ago. Today, for a single-cavity with handles, I'd pay no more than $35.

Though I do have a single-cavity rifle mould, I wouldn't buy one for handgun use -- too much time and work involved for a too small pile of boolits.

$35 is the price. Maybe not worth it.

Thanks everyone.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lost a thread. Upgrading Lyman 45 handles and pivots

I just saw it this morning and now I can't find it.

I've got a 45 with a broken pivot bolt.

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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anybody use the lyman 35893 in 9mm

Boolit Master Join DateJul 2012LocationSouth of St. LouisPosts280

Im working on getting a lyman 35893 in a trade has anybody tried it in 9mm. I wanted to try this mold for a long time kinda wonder how it does in 38/357 or even 9mm.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman round ball and minie ball mold. worth what?

Came across a bit of lead with two lyman molds and mold handle, plus a lee round nose single cavity mold. Lymans have patina with possibly a very slight/light rust. Lee looks new.

Lyman is a 2 cavity round ball. 454, o think. The second lyman is a single cavity mold that is likely a hollow point or a hollow base minie ball mold as it has a pin.
There is also a set of handles.

Educate me on the lymans and what would the 2 lyman molds,handles, lee mold and handles and about 10 lbs of lead be worth?

Thanks, Brad

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Lyman 311407 DC mold

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts1

Can anyone help an old shooter out? I've lost ( misplaced) my beloved Lyman 311407 DC mold.
Sure would like to replace it. (At ALMOST any cost).
I have all the other 311's, but my 1917 94 Win loves it. Thanks in advance

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman gas check seater #2745881: Do I need one?

Boolit Mold Join DateMar 2013Posts10

I'm using a Lyman 45 lubri-sizer for my Lyman 429640 Devastator hollowpoints, with Hornady crimp-on gas checks, for my .44 Rem. Mag. revolvers.

I've put on the gas checks simply by pressing them onto the bases of the bullets as hard as I could by hand, then tapping the base of the gas-checked bullets on the top of the reloading bench, by hand, to ensure that they're fully seated. I've been wondering if this is too crude a method, and perhaps not square? They look good, but I still wonder...

I've researched Lyman's website & found their gas check seater #2745881 ($11.25). Would you advise that I use this to seat my gas checks? If so, how is it done? Is the seating process a separate step from sizing/lubing the bullet? I would assume so, because the sizing/lubing step also crimps the gas check onto the bullet. Would the process work this way: Install the gas check seater into the 45 lubrisizer, seat the gas checks into all my bullets, then remove the seater, then size/lube all the bullets?

Or, would the process work in such a way that I could insert a gas check with each bullet, and perform the gas check seating and bullet sizing/lubing with the same ram strokes?

Sorry about the rudimentary questions, but I don't have the tools in front of me now to examine them & how they work. Thanks much.

jimb.

I bought one and used it a couple of times .I thought it was more of a PITA than what its worth. This is just my opinion others may like it .either of the methods you described will work. I was having problems with GC being to loose after being installed. I switched to gator gas checks sold on this site and my problem went away.

Don't blame me, I voted for Mitt.

I never had to use the one that came with my 4500. I tried it once just out of curiosity. Extra resistance bent my boolit.

Dutch

"The future ain't what it used to be".
-Yogi Berra.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman 45 Lubsizer question.

I'm adding a Lyman 45 to my handloading set up in Scotland. I've brought the sizer up with me but have forgotten the push out rod. I've found a suitable nail but need to know how long to cut it, would anyone with a Lyman 45 care to measure the length for me please?

Very glad to help, sir.

That's one heck of a "suitable nail".

Boolit Man Join DateApr 2012LocationOntario, Can!Posts99

i have to say, for thinking outside the box you sure nailed it!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Anyone know about this Lyman mold

1st mould is Ideal-marked, #454190 single-cavity. Meplat is .210".

2nd mould is Lyman-marked, #454190, double cavity. Meplat is identical, and castings from either weigh right at 252 grains in 92/6/2 and mic #.455"-.4555". I cannot see a difference between the cavities of both moulds.

FWIW, I have a similar pair of #454424s, and they they DEFINITELY differ. Markedly. Lyman's adherence to design standards is somewhat poetic, it seems.

ALL of these castings have a short, "squatty" aspect to them not presented well in catalog sketches.

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Easy Way to Remove Sizing Dies from Lyman #4500?

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2009Posts40

Does anyone have an easy, efficient way to remove sizing dies from your Lyman #4500 Lubrisizer? Perhaps a simple tool you've adapted for this job?

Right now my method involves a lot of banging on the die from the bottom using a hammer and the small end of a larger Allen wrench, and I just have to believe there is a better way.

I thank you in advance for your expertise!

The method provided by Lyman in the instructions has always worked fine for me.

"The trouble with Socialism is, sooner or later you run out of other people's money." - Margaret Thatcher

Use a hair dryer or heat gun and heat the lube/sizer up to at least "warm". There is no need to get it any warmer than about 125 degrees (about all the average person can stand without being burned). That softens the lube which is the prime reason the die doesn't want to come out.

I have a heater for my lube/sizers and I just turn the heater on for fifteen minutes or so. Problem solved. Lyman used to package a small wrench for the die hold down nut with the sizer. If you turn that wrench sideways underneath the sizer you can use the handle to raise that die right out of the body (I don't have a picture to make this clearer). It DOES help to loosen the set screw before you try to remove the die...

Dale53

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2009Posts40

The method provided by Lyman in the instructions has always worked fine for me.Bought it used; instructions were not included.

Boolit Bub Join DateDec 2009Posts40

Thanks for the tip!

"It DOES help to loosen the set screw before you try to remove the die..."

Boy, this is a tough crowd...

I put a .45 boolit on top of the lower ram, lift the handle, and out she comes.

The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!

+1 on the boolit, or pliers handle, wrench, or other spacer. +1 on heat too.

I've used a small block of wood with good results. Heating before hand is the secret, though.

NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS 48747 L

I use Lyman's four-hole, multi-use, super-spiffy die wrench.

Run the adjuster nut all the way up -- this allows maximum movement of the push rod -- turn the wrench sideways, and raise the handle.

I used to use the lock nut wrench, but it became misshaped and didn't fit the nut properly.

If you received the Lyman wrench for removing the nut that holds the die in. Don't do what I did when I first started. I didn't warm the 4500 and following Lymans' instructions promptly crushed the large end of the Lyman wrench. I had a hard time getting Lyman to replace it. Now I use the one made on this site by "the perfessor" That is money well spent.

Courage is being scared to death-but saddling up anyway. John Wayne

A man has to do what a man has to do. John Wayne

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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I am loading up my first Lyman 525s, can I get a safety check

So am am about to start loading up my first lyman 525s and my first 12 gauge loads

you have all been so helpful and I was hoping for a little more advice

I have chosen 2 loads to try out. One intended to be a low recoil all day shooter, another to be a full power load.

I first chose wads based of VdoMemorie's pic that I love of the 525 in all different slugs

pic originally posted by VdoMemorie

I like the 12S3 and the Versalite because the top of the wad comes up to the middle or the slug "rim" without going over the top. This is important because I want to roll crimp.

the low recoil load I chose was based off a bird shot load from the alliant site.

I chose this load because it says the pressures are only in the 7000s, 16 gauge card and slug in the wad

the full power load I chose is the real one I have questions on because it is a mix of a few different recipes but I fell it should work and be safe.

Fiocchi unskived hulls
Fiocchi 616 primers
38gn of blue dot then work it up from there
Federal 12s3 wad with a 16 gauge .125 card
roll crimp

any thoughts or advice would be much appreciated

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Lyman 45 top punch info needed. Diferent punch, or all bullets??

Well, for a somewhat off-the-wall answer to your question....

My moulds now number eighty or more, and my top punches.... I'd be surprised if there are more than twenty in the shop.

I reckon I'm using mis-matched punches more often than not. In practice, I just select a punch that "approximates" the shape needed, without making rings or cuts on the bullet.

One useful stop-gap is a 1/4" bolt mounted head-down as a top punch. Remove any irregularities on the bolt-head with a file or stone, and it will work rather well. A small flat created on the bullet by the bolt-head won't do much harm, if any.

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Lyman Mold Dimensions, Alloy Choices, and Beagling

See? A common rant topic, just like I said.

Piedmont, I'm not trying to launch a Lyman vs. custom moldmakers thread. Most us have seen the difference and are sold on the custom houses for future purchases, but the fact is that the molds are out there, people own them, and those that do have to either upgrade or find ways to deal with their quirks - which is part of what I'm hoping to address.

One of those quirks is (or may be) the alloy that the mold was spec'd for. I haven't poured #2 into my small-casting 358429 because it doesn't seem like the right metal for the task - I am soliciting the feedback of those who have.

More simply put: Is it the mold that is wrong or the alloy? On the one hand, our alloy may be wrong because it's not what the molds were made for; on the other hand if nobody is using #2 in a vast class of molds (specifically non-super-magnum handguns), Lyman may need to wake up and smell the coffee on cavity diameter. The third possibility is general Q.C. issues.

I'm sure someone here has done the necessary experiments and I'd like to hear from them. Otherwise, I've got to gear up for science.

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Slug Crimp Problem / Lyman sabot slug

Boolit Mold Join DateNov 2011LocationWauseon OhioPosts5

I ran out of WAA12R wads,and a search on here ,Guys were claiming they were using WAA12
white wads.
I tried these,and have not been able to get a good crimp. [I am using AA hulls]
I tried a bunch of Test loads with the WAA12 wads,and used [in a MEC 600 jr] from 40 to 90
Pounds of wad pressure.
I still cannot get the wad deep enough to get a good crimp[I am using 35 gr.4756 powder]
My crimp flares out,and when I do the final crimp,there is a hole in the middle of the fold,and the OAL is longer than a standard case.
I took them outside,and tried to feed them through my 870,and Savage,and the flared case end sometimes hangs up.
I tried the claybusters substitute,and there is a rib,full length down the center of each wad petal,and forcing a sabot slug in,would bulge the case,and it would not chamber.
When I originally tested this mold when it came out,I tried 5 different powders,and the 4756 gave the best accuracy,and best Vel.
We have a shotgun steel challange at the end of the month at our club,and it looks like I am going to have to buy slugs for now!
Can anyone tell me what wad will substitute,and actually work?
With the WAA12R wad,I could seat the wad,and drop the slug in,but with the WAA12 ,I had to drop it in the wad,and seat wad/slug together.
The wad sits so high in the case,the wad flares in with the old crimp,and trying to force the slug in,pushes the petals down into the hull.
I tried to take a claybusters wad,and use a wood gouge to take the rib out,and the base inside is smaller,and the slug will not seat all the way.
H E L P !

Sounds like you better go back to the waa12r the regular AA white wad is for 1 1/8 target loads and the AA12R is for heavier field and magnum loads. So the red wad has a much shorter cushion section than the white wad they aren't interchangeable. You shouldn't have to much problem finding them. FB

"Somebody's gotta go back and get a sh*tload of dimes"
Slim Pickens in Blazing Saddles

Boolit Man Join DateJan 2013LocationThe MittenPosts110

I use the waa12r wads with mine not air what I will use when the run out I think there is a claybuster wad that matches the was12r CBWCB113812 so you may want to cheek that out another option is to cut the piston portion out of the white wads since its not really necessary with a slug and just us the seal from the bottom and the cup

silverman1:
Welcome to the CastBoolits.
I use the WAA12 wads, but there is a change in the powder, and charge. I use 30 grains pof Herco, as compared to your 35 grains of 4756. That would be one of the issues. Also, one cannot just indiscriminately change componants (wads) from one height to a taller cusion height without causing problems. If I wanted to change to a WAA12R wad, I would have to change to a different powder also.
If you have a shotshell reloaders manual, you need to check the loads for your particular case, powder, and the wad you are going to be using.
Reguards
Jack

Boolit Master Join DateMay 2009Posts668

Good morning SilverMan, here is the gauge I use before I start to develop a new load:

choose your powder and wad wisely based on your hull space.

Here are some of the choices of wads that I have check them for height.

Did you know 40 to 60 lbs wad pressure is normal and in case of Herco the powder company reccomends 100lbs if I'm not mistaken or drunk right now!

Look carefully and you will see, I use a nitro card below slug, in wad and in some cases even two!

Life is short and we got to do what ever it takes to make us happy.
Enjoy it while you are at it!

Warmest regards,
Ajay
BlazingSabots@Gmail.com
Blazing Sabots, LLC
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Assembled "stack height" is the key with using AA hulls.
Ajays pictures are "PRICELESS" when it comes to illustrating this. Noting the payload differences in the Win Red and White wads are pretty significant too. I have been using the Claybuster equivalents for 2-3 years now, as the Win AA red have been discontinued for 5+ years, without issue.
AA hulls while plentiful, may not always be the ideal choice for everything used in loading the Lyman Sabot slug.
Pete

Something you might try is to cut the gas seal and cushion legs of your white wads and use the gas seal over the powder then cut fiber wad spacers to go under the shotcup. That may allow you to use what you have available ~ length of fiber wad set to give good crimp. Hard card wads may work too but I would drop the powder charge a few grains just because there won't be as much "give" in the cushion so effectively less volume.

It is worth a try if you can't find what you need.

Longbow

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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TL Boolits from Lyman or RCBS

No !

No tumble lube bullet designs identical to Lee's.

Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.

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Lyman Keith 358439 hp ??

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Abbreviations used in Reloading
Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"

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Lyman lubrasizer 4500 and PID

So after seeing all the PID controller threads I was inspired and built on in a old computer case I had laying around. The face of it has a trap door and the PID fit perfectly in the DVD drive slot. I welded in a single gang box in the back and control the outlets with the PID. I mounted the SSR on a piece of scrap aluminum and wired in a fuse and a lighted power switch and it works like a dream. I put a stainless steel tray on the top to catch any wayward spills. This setup works great with my lee 20Lb pot.
I have a lubrasizer on order and want to control the heater with my setup. I have heard of guys here doing so and want to know how they monitor the temp of the base of the lubrasizer and what temp they set it at.
Here are some pictures of my PID setup.

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